how are you guy's getting the extreme or even high FOC. I understand what it is. but how are you'll acheiving it without shooting extremely heavy shafts?
i shoot a 58 @ my 29 in. draw. my bow is cut slightly past center and i seem to shoot a pretty stiff arrow. i shoot goldtip 5575's cut to 31 inches and 285 grain up front, i only have 21% foc and i have a 595-600 grain arrow. is this cosidered extreme or high foc.
i can't seem to find a stiff enough arrow to allow me to get 25, 27 , 30 % foc without getting into the 700 grain arrow range and i think that my arrow, out of that bow would drop like a rock.
i don't know if i should build the shelf out away from center to allow me to shoot weaker spined arrows. wouldn't this be taking the advantage of having a center shot bow away, and lose performance to gain nothing.
thanks for any help
I can't answer your questions, but if you post this on the EFOC thread, I'm sure someone there will be able to.
I honestly think long arrow shooters are SOL. I'll watch this thread eagerly to see where it goes. I'm already at a 32.75" shaft, 11 gpi, w/ 300 gr up front. That is low on the FOC tables as I am at (if I remember correectly) 11" back from the tip.
Do your arrows fly OK?
Are you shooting a good, sharp broadhead?
Yes to either of the above...Don't stress it! You've got the arrow weight, you've got the horsepower to shove the weight. There isn't much that's going to shrug off a hit from your setup!
Incedentally, that'd be fairly high FOC. I dare say you could up your FOC by shortening your current arrow by an inch & adding 100gn up front (are you using a weighted insert, or just a heavy head?) & still stay somewhere near on your spine, but if I were you, if you're happy with the flight & weight, leave well alone ;)
Oh, out of interest I shoot 31-1/2" arrows with a 30" draw & get 19% FOC. Shooting bows at between 60-67# at my length, I'm really not worried at all! :D
I think 21% is a high FOC when you compare to the old standard of 8-12% of years ago.If your arrows are flying fine,what would you expect with getting 25% and higher.My carbons run from 16 to 20% FOC,thats just where they end up after tuning them.And I'm fine with that for me.
Brandon, Extreme FOC starts at 19%, so you are already into Extreme FOC. However, the flight and penetration benefits derived from Extreme FOC continue to increase as FOC goes up.
The 19% break point for Extreme FOC came about because that was the point at which increasing FOC showed a definite measurable increas in penetration; when 2 arrows of like profile, mass and impact force were compared.
The best way to get higher FOC is to put as much of whatever total arrow mass you want to use as you possible can into the arrow's point, and keep the weight of the rear shaft as light as you can. Several shafts come in 'light' version with the same relative static spine.
Hope that helps,
Ed
thanks for your replies.
yes i bareshaft and am very anal about getting perfect arrow flight and that is where my problems comes, to get perfect flight and still get higher foc i have to give something up and i don't want to :knothead:
i currently have 100 grain brass insert.
42 grain adapter and 130 and 125 grain zwickey no mercy and grizzly
i am thinking about just shooting the new easton nano tube axis things, the should offer penetration gains and keep the same 285 grain point and stick with 21% foc.
i know it is enough for a perfect hit but i try to plan for the unperfect, i am just tring to find a shaft as strong as my goldtips and .400 spine but in a lower gpi.
yes i could cut my arrow shorter and add more weight to the front but i would end up with a 650-700 grain arrow. is this too heavy for a 58 lb. bow
i am looking at the new easton nano tube axis arrows.
Your only choice is to start with the lightest shafts you can find like easton lightspeeds in a higher spine.I like you don't want to shoot logs so will never get that kind of foc on arrows.
BM22, "i don't know if i should build the shelf out away from center to allow me to shoot weaker spined arrows. wouldn't this be taking the advantage of having a center shot bow away, and lose performance to gain nothing."
This is a common notion with no basis in fact. You can tune the arrows to the bow OR the bow to the arrows. 1/32" difference in centershot has a huge impact on tuning and contrary to popular belief, it has zero effect on performance. Being center shot is a desirable trait only from the stand point it gives you more tuning options. Very few trad bows are true "centershot", many are "center cut". There is a big difference between the two....O.L.
What is the the difference in the two please?
Razor, "centershot" is if you line the string up down the center of the limbs with an arrow nocked, the string will split the arrow in half. This is usually about 3/16" past "center cut"...
Center cut, or cut to center is the string lined up down the center of the limbs and the sight window is inline with the string. This places the arrow significantly left of center shot.
A good starting place for a finger shooter is with an arrow nocked it's about 1 arrow diameter left of centershot at the point for a right handed shooter.....O.L.
i shoot 15% and have gone straight through shoulderblades on big blackbears, shooting from a stand of course, shooting a three blade, for a big critter like a moose i wouldnt hesitate with a two blade, i know its not extreeme foc but i cant get it with the shafts i have and they shoot well and hit hard, i wouldnt worry about it you have pretty good #s as is.
Thanks OL, I have always felt "amount of centershot" did not matter as long as the bow shot on line for you with good arrow flight. Nice to see it in writing.
No biggy Blaine, You'll hear that occasionally too that non-center shot bows shoot to the left so you have to "aim" right...Hogwash! :) A tuned arrow goes where it's pointed regardless of centershot. That's what the tuning process is for, to get them shooting on line....O.L.
Thanks O.L.