Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: buckeyebowhunter on March 11, 2020, 10:09:17 PM
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I know this has been posted a thousand times but what band saw blade is best for nasty stuff like dymondwood, phenolic, glass etc. I'm getting sick of going through a cheap blade for about each bow I build. I really only use my band saw to rough cut risers for my 3 piece bows. I have seen the Lenox tri master thrown around a lot in older posts but I actually called Lennox and they suggested the grit master. Either way both blades are 200 bucks which I won't mind paying if I can get several bows. Any tips would be great. I'm using a 14" craftsman. Thanks guys!
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Not sure if you are saying each blade is $200, or $100. each for 2 blades. Either way that seems like way too much for a blade. What width and TPI are you using? You should be able to get a Bi-metal blade for around $50. and if you do some deep shopping, a lot less.
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Flem, 200 per blade. The cheap blades I've used are 30 dollar bi metal blades usually 3/8" and 8-10TPI I believe. But I'm only getting 1 or 2 bows out of them.
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On my Jet 14 in. I get local made 6/10 VP bimetal. They make them in house. The stock they use is a bit thicker and work good for resaw against the fence. When start to dull on wood I saw limbs G10 etc. they still saw quite a few limbs. G10 is hard on them tho. Straight cuts on G10 a masonry blade on the table saw is good.
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OUCH!!! :o $200. per blade, thats just wrong. I really hope somebody here can offer up some better options for you.
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I know Haha! I'll spend it if I can get a bunch of bows out of it. I'm not digging having to change the blade out all the time when it's time i could use building bows.
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I got tired of spending $$ on bandsaw blades... The carbide ones are great but eventually break before the life of the teeth are over... You can increase the life of the blade greatly by using your table saw instead for straight cuts... I now use my bandsaw about 65 to 75% less now...
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I do what Shredd does and never looked back. A 24 tooth 7.25 Diablo framing blade is around ten bucks and seems to last forever. I rough cut out my LB`s on the table saw and can get as close as I can using my band saw.
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I struggled with cheap blades and finally ordered a Timberwolf. I thought I needed a better saw but it's a whole new deal with a decent blade.
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I only use bimetal blades and they last for maybe a dozen or more bows or they did when I was making so many.I keep a couple of old blades to use where ever cutting glass though. Only took a minute or so to swap blades.No worries at all.
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Yep decent blades Bi metal change to an old one for glass all is well :thumbsup:
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Stic, any recommendation on a decent bi metal blade? Also if I'm gluing phenolic and glass accents into my risers does this not render the blade useless? This was my inclination towards the tri master carbide. If I can build 10 risers out of 1 $200 blade I'll take that over 2 bows per 40 dollar blade.
Thanks for the replies everyone
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What I have found is that when a blade hits glass or G10 etc. the keen edge is gone. It will still saw the composites but for good wood cutting no. So dedicate a blade for wood and one for composites and change blades when sawing one or the other. I prefer a thicker blade such as bi metals I have sawed as many as 20 limbs with a 6/10 VP bimetal after it was dulling sawing wood.
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I strongly recommend The Lennox Tri-Master carbide tipped blade. I have used them to build bows for over 20 years. The bandsaw I use to cut out all bows and any riser with fiberglass is a 14" Jet. The blade currently on the saw has cut out at least 150 bows. Buy the 1/2" blade and not the 3/8". For some reason, the band thickness of the 3/8" is greater and will not last with the small 14" diameter wheel. I learned this after lots of problems with broken blades.
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So Mike you are saying that the tri master blade after sawing glass still saws woods as good as before it sawed glass?
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In my opinion, it still saws wood just as well as when new even after being used on fiberglass. However, I use a larger bandsaw with a different blade for slicing laminations and veneers and other all wood applications.
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Did you mean 3/4 instead of 3/8"... It does not make sense that a 3/8" blade would be thicker than a 1/2" blade...
I love that blade I might consider using it again and going to a thinner blade... I used a 3/4" blade on a 14" saw and the blades would break after a while...
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Wow... You are right... 3/8" is thicker... Just looked it up...
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As much as I hate to spend the money. I'm going with the tri master. If I can even get 15 bows out of one its worth the money to me. Let alone 150 bows. Thanks for the input Mike. I will update you guys when I use the blade in the near future. Thanks to all who replied :shaka:
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Horsey exactly what I said only you have another saw to cut all your wood. I change blades. I have never had a tri master so I dont know for sure but seeing how glass dulls a carbide tablesaw blade I have a hard time thinking any other blade would be different.
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I have a 10" abrasive wheel that works nicely on a table saw. It might work on G10??
Anymore I rough limbs out on the Rigid oscillating belt with 36 grit and do the final by hand.
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I use a 6 tpi x.025 bi-metal blade for cutting out risers, resaw, and cutting out the sight window. I did notice the glass does dull it a lil bit. I have not cut limbs down with it, I was worried about the glass chipping or peeling on the bottom side of the cut. Am I ok to rough out limbs with one. Ive been grinding them down with belt sander and a 36 grit belt.
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You can rough them with the bandsaw but honestly I prefer to use the belt sander with 36 grit like you say you've been doing. I feel like I'm just as accurate with the sander and also saves on the blade some.
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Buckeyebowhunter...try Spectrum supply much better price on trimaster blade.
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I have a 10" abrasive wheel that works nicely on a table saw. It might work on G10??
Anymore I rough limbs out on the Rigid oscillating belt with 36 grit and do the final by hand.
same here..
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I have a 10" abrasive wheel that works nicely on a table saw. It might work on G10??
Anymore I rough limbs out on the Rigid oscillating belt with 36 grit and do the final by hand.
same here..
Same here but I use an ancient disc sander . Use good dust collection , glass dust is no good!! And check to see you aren’t getting the limb hot, the disc doesn’t seem to get it as hot as my edge sander...
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I use a carbide Dedicated band saw for cutting anything that’s not wood...works great.