Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: hunting badger on February 22, 2020, 10:20:36 PM
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I'm asking my fellow bowyers how to shape overlays so you don't have a major glue line showing when you feather your overlays into the main portion of the bow. I use smooth on to glue my handle, belly and tip overlay on but always end up fighting the glue line to keep it from showing on my bows! What am I doing wrong?
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From my experience (not huge) I get the same issue when I don’t apply enough pressure on the end of my overlay while gluing.
What is your setup to glue overlays?
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I use inter tube strips to tighten the overlay down. I've tried clamps but due to the curvature of the bows I can't get them to hold. The glue joint seems tight but maybe its that simple.
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I use a little pc of 1/4 ply in a sandwich bag at ends and clamp with a wedge under the bow...
Usually with the plywood only on end if the curve allows.
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Thanks Kenny, Im seriously considering building a overlay form just like bow form to glue overlays.
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Making Long gradual fades when blending the overlay into the limb will help.
To much clamp pressure will make an inferior glue line and they may lift at the ends later. (Don’t ask)
I’ve started glueing my first layer on first with a couple of clamps and a piece of scrap for a backer. I put a couple spring clams on the ends. The spring clamps hold pretty well even with the curvature of the riser and seem to have just the right amount of pressure for a good glue line.
This creates one more step but it helps not having several layers slipping all over the place. I add the rest of my overlays on the next day
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If you got a lot of curve in the tip use two or three pieces thin enough to bend cover your tip with thin plastic glue your overlay pieces together on the plastic to get the curve. Then when cured preshape the fades. I find the more you get them close before gluing them on equals a better result.
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Y’all have some great ideas for getting the overlays on nice and tight. But mine started looking better when I stopped sanding them to shape them.
I now use a small round chainsaw file to shape the overlay. Then finish with just a light quick sanding to get rid of file marks. I’ve found it best if you start on the limb and work towards the overlay. With a gentle touch, the file will skate across the fiberglass without marking it. You can easily tell when the file hits the glue and softer wood overlay material.
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Thanks, all these are all great suggestions! Bvas I was wondering about sanding toward the overlay, I've always sanded from the overlay down toward the limbs! I'm going to try y'all's suggestions because I have not been happy with the glue lines on my last couple of bows! I finally got them both to work but it was a lot of aggravation and took a lot more time than it should have! Thanks again!! Any more suggestions are greatly appreciated!
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I agree with what Bvas said as well. Something that helped me « correct » the look of the last overlay I did was using a blade to scrap the remaining glue after using the file