Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: RedShaft on January 22, 2020, 12:32:58 PM
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Those of you who shoot lower poundage in the #40-45 range what do you like your arrow weight to be or ggp when setting up that bow for hunting?
I was thinking around the 500g?
Whitetails.
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Nine to ten grains per pound with sixteen to twenty percent front of center.
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I'm shooting a 42# Holm Made Osprey. My arrows are Easton Axis Trads. 600 spine cut to 28". I have 50Gr. inserts and 150 gr. Wasp Sharpshooters up front. Total arrow weight is 440 grs.
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Ive used as little as 9 w two holes. But i prefer 12 gpp in part due to the tighter gaps.
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I prefer over 500 gns at 45#'s
I prefer even heavier as the draw weight decreases.
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I shot 500 grains out of a 42 pound Whistler at a 28" drawlength for the last 2 seasons, 6 deer and all of them had exit holes.
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9.5-10.5 GPP as it works out. Carbon and wood.
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Mine are a bit different by todays standards. First off they are all Arrow Dynamics. That said, let me be clear, I spent a bit more on these shafts and as Terry has mentioned in another post.... I got the matched sets and bought likely over $1000.00 of them in several different models.
One set I use on a 45Lb Widow MA Dacron string, old frost finish is as follows... What is now called the Lite model, 28.5 inches +/- .250, 135 gr Zephyr Scirocco w/o bleeder, 100 gr adapter and aluminum insert and allowing for three 5" feathers, hand painted etc. I come out at 441 gr. or roughly 15.45 gpi. with my calculations I am close to 20% foc. This set up as shot through several deer at the 20 to 30 yard range.
My second set of Trad Hunters is for a heavier then 40-45 so I will not elaborate on them other then to say the shoot through stuff.
For my 45lb Widow PL I chose a straight walled shaft and followed the recipe from the MA save for a change in shafts make. I was able to come up with similar performance criteria with just a bit of fiddling using the same broad head but changing up some of the bits and pieces. Still had 20% foc. I even carry a good luck arrow in the quiver on this bow tipped with a 1960's Bear Razor Head that I had on arrows way back then. Good enough for me.
Yea, I like my Widows and my AD shafts.
The recipes for these arrows were all worked up a good number of years ago but are still good to go.
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Thanks guys!
Plan on having them setup with the cutthroat broadheads I shoot.
I don't hunt much with traditional gear any more but I set my bow to to be able to if I have the hankering.
I don't shoot as often like I used to and I must just be a weakling, cause bows over #45 wear me out quick anymore.
I like to be able to go grab a bow and head out and shoot a bunch without fatigue, even if I have not shot for a while.
I also shoot much different now and like to hold at full draw a while and execute a shot. Usually around 6 seconds or so and that can wear me out quickly doing that. I keep dropping bow weight to shoot very comfortably.
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I hunted most of this past season with an old Ben Pearson Raider, which was around 40# at my DL. My hunting set up was:
Gold Tip 600 Traditional Blems (full length)
125 grain Magnus Stinger w/ bleeder blades
100 grain Gold Tip insert
561 grain total arrow weight
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Out of curiosity, if any of you reference your point. What was your point on distance? Would like to have a point on of about 30yds. Even 25 would be okay I guess.
Today I was shooting #45 curve and with a 586gr arrow I was point on about 25yds.
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RedShaft:
I dont think I can give you a straight answer ie. "reference your point" because I shoot 3 under and gun barrel very high under my right eye and tight to my nose. I have been shooting this way for so long I think it has just become subconscious to my sight picture to adjust without even referencing any thing... sort of like a modified instinctive method. I will say that out at about 30+ yards I think I seem to look a bit higher.
Just my method. Seems to work for me
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I like 500 - 550 grains I think it is plenty and shoots great.
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I am shooting 45# at 29" these days.
I have one arrow formula that is 475 grains that shoots great -- I am completely confident with this one for deer and bear.
I have another at 520 grains that shoots great -- This is my hog arrow.
I am running 3-blade broadheads on both. The two formulas are identical except for the brand of shaft, which accounts for the weight difference.
I am working on a formula that will be a touch over 560 grains with close to 30% FOC, but I don't have it perfected yet.
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488 Grains out of my 44# Bear 67' Super K. 17% FOC....worx great...!!
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Bows are 41-46 pounds, arrows 565, 2 blade broadhead !!
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My bow is #45 @28. Arrow...31" XX75, 3- 4" Helical Fletch, Zwickey Eskimo, 550 gr., 19%FOC.
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I'm now shooting bows in the 45-48# range for hunting. I try to keep my arrow weight about 525 to 550 grains
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I generally hand make my own cedars with 3 X 5 " fletching and 125gr Zwickey Eskimos. I don't add weight other than painted-on cap dip and cresting and shoot them as they are.
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My arrows for this years elk hunt were 597 gn for my 45 # Caribow
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Out of my 40 - 43 lb bows I shoot around 480 grains....Has worked pretty good on whitetails so far..
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I shoot 545 and 600 grains arrows out of my 46# and 50# Longbows,
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#45 Alaskan, 583 gr. 3R Trad only.
25% foc.
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My bow weight is not far off, it’s 51#. My arrows weigh 680 grains .
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My personal point-on has been 25 yards for both 3D and hunting for over a decade.
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42# bow, 420gr alum arrow.
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I am using 549g arrows with a 250g single bevel Cutthroat broadhead in my 45# Omega Original. Bagged a young doe with it earlier this week, complete pass through, she only made it about 100 yards and dropped.
Entrance wound was on her right side.
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Whatever fly well. I was shooting about 590 grains today.
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Thanks guys for all the advice.
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I’m seeing the arrow weight, when shooting carbon arrows what spine do you guys prefer to build off for this low poundage .500 or .600
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Let the bow tell you. There are a million ways to "MAKE" an arrow shoot off your bow but it may not be what the bow wants to hit the sweet spot and provide the best results.
Get close with some research and then get a test kit or three.... work it up. There is no free lunch here. It takes time and patience but to me thats part of the fun. It is amazing when you hit that spot.... believe me after over almost 50 years of doing this its worth it.
When ya get real close do the bare shaft, fletched shaft thing. Once that is done and any corrections made.... You are there.
JMHO