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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: buckeyebowhunter on November 05, 2019, 03:31:50 PM
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Hello guys,
Been a little while since I posted but I've built a few bows in the meantime. I feel like each riser that I've done has gotten better. But my limbs seem to have plateaued as far as their performance is concerned. My main concern is that I can't seem to eliminate the "stack" at the tail end of the draw. They just don't seem to be smooth drawing limbs compared to some of the bows that I own. For example my 45# limbs seem heavier than my 48# black widow limbs. I know I'm comparing a top of the line bow to amateur limbs but I was hoping you guys may have some tricks I can try or ideas that may give me a place to start at improving the performance of the limbs.
Just some background on the bows I've been building. So far I have only built takedown recurves, and for the most part I use the bingham limb stack formulas. The limb profile of my form is also from binghams. I've mostly been using their actionwood for my limb cores, but also built a bow with elm, and walnut.
Thanks!
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A couple full draw pics would be good.
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If you want help you need to supply all the details and pics of your bow... Unstrung, at brace and at 28" draw... And maybe a pic when the string leaves the limbs and what draw length it does...
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Ok guys gimme a sec, still at work. :banghead:
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These are the best I can do for now. No way to get a full draw pic.
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Obviously this bow is not yet finished but the specs are
17" riser, bow is about 60" unstrung and right now pulling about 46# @28. The limb stack is ULS .043, parallel .050, and taper .100
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Whats the brace height?
Binghams limbs are 1-3/4" or 2" wide, what one do you have?
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It's braced at about 7 an a quarter. Started with two inch limbs. But after shaping and tillering they're probably 1.75".
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I am assuming it takes a 57" string?? What is the distance between the ends of the wedges (fades)?? Are the other bows that you are comparing them to the same length?? Do you have power lams in there?? What are the angle of your riser pads?? Are you curves static or working??? Full draw pic would help... Also in that side profile you chopped off the ends of your bow... Would like to see a full side profile shot... Full draw pic is really important... 26 1/4" tiller stick... Be careful...
I am not a recurve guy but my first impression is your geometry might be off... Them limbs look raked back really far and the hooks appear big... A 17" riser and what appears to be 21 - 23" from fade to fade... There is very little room for the limbs to work... I could possibly see why you are stacking... Then again I am not experienced with recurves...
Did you lay your bow up against your other bows and compare their shapes??
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Shredd, you're going to have to school me on "power lams" I've heard the term thrown around but don't fully understand. Also will measure the wedge to the fades in the morning. Riser pad angle is 21 degrees. I cannot hardly compare it by profile with my widow because the design is belly mounted limbs. I am simply comparing the feel on how they draw.
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Somebody correct me if I am wrong but a belly mounted limb has a big advantage on a shorter bow...
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You guys are gonna have to walk me through the geometry on this stuff, an take it easy on me I'm an art guy not a math guy :goldtooth:
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Wedges are roughly 8" from end to fade.
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First of all if you are doing the Bingham design and using the tapers they say and their pad angles and form shape you should be good. Have you done a FDC to see how much you are gaining per in. you talking stacking at 28 in. or where at? Heavier bow will gain more per in.
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Wedges are roughly 8" from end to fade.
No... I need to know the distance between the two fades... From fade tip to tip... As I said it looks like 21 to 23"...
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There is enough deflex in that riser that it can get buy with a short working limb. If you built it by Bingham specs.
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There is enough deflex in that riser that it can get buy with a short working limb. If you built it by Bingham specs.
x2------ Could just be the design is not as smooth draw as the widow.
Riser should be 19" for the 58/60/62"
21" for the 64/66/68"
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Max you are correct about the bingham designs with limb length. However, I wanted a 17" riser. So I took their riser template and using adobe shrunk it keeeping the pad angles the same but just a shorter smaller profile riser. For this particular bow, I used their 62" limb formula. And this bow does seem to draw better than the first few I made using their 19" riser and 62" limbs. I just figured there may be something I could do differently or modify to make a smoother draw.
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Do an FDC on it and see what you are gaining per in.
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What helped me graduate from a Bingham design years ago, was to change pad angle to 17 deg. use less stack and a longer leaner wedge for 62in on a 17 inch riser.(Slightly deflexed) My wedge would be 9.25 inch with a 16.5in working limb.
brace went to 7 3/4 to 8in.
My finished limb width is 1.55"
On FDC, I am at 2# per inch. Max
VJ.
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Thanks guys. These numbers are as accurate as I could get using a marked arrow and hand scale. Full draw pics after the old lady gets here.
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Sorry the last number is 50.16. @28
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Shredd the fade tip to fade tip with the bow strung is 24"
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That sounds like a lot... I got my new semi-recurve with a 62" string and my fades are at 19" but I have sorta of a power lam in there too...... For starts I would either lean them fades way down or pull them back aways... We'll see how she is bending at full draw... (28") Change one thing at a time and see how things go... I wish a couple of recurve builders would chime in...
I will do the DFC for you and post it...
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Did you shorten the limbs too or only the riser. I ask because if you shortened the limbs, by taking some off the tips it would likely pull different and stack at less draw length.
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I cannot get the DFC to go any bigger... It's kinda hard to tell with the squiggly line but it appears to be stacking... The good news is you have lots of power in the beginning of your draw... When you take a straight line from the 9" dot to the 28" dot, 22" up to about 26" to 27" should not be touching the line... If it is, it is stacking early... In your DFC the line is definitely touching those numbers... In other wards you want big numbers in the beginning of your draw and little ones at the end of it...
I also have a new theory... In the 20" to 22" area you want a smooth transition... In your DFC is does not appear smooth... I call it a shelf... I have not fully proven it yet but I believe the smoother the transition the better the performance... But that is not something you really have to worry about yet... That comes down the line with fine tuning...
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I would also research that bow design... If it does not get good performance I would trash it and go with a design that is proven...
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Shredd thanks for the help and info. I'm going to reread it a few more times and I'll have some more questions to follow. Here are the full draw pics. Sorry about the lighting. [ You are not allowed to view attachments ] [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
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Jess, I did not shorten limbs. Only the riser.
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Did you use a .002 taper and a parallel? Looks like a nice looking bow bet it's gonna look awesome once the finish hits it.
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That FDC looks pretty good to me. Maybe a little eratic. If you really want to get technical trace the limb bend at each in. and compare top with bottom limb. This checks limb timing. you sand the glass to get them both the same.
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Thanks Jess! I will have to look at what the taper was again I honestly can't remember. Stic, what is the procedure for that? Tillering stic at each inch and trace the bend on grid paper?
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The method you used to measure the draw weight is bound to result in some minor dips and bellys in the DFC. I think you got your numbers pretty well nailed though. Just looking at the numbers and not the dfc, it looks like a pretty good jump from 27" to 28". Maybe re measure the 25, 26, 27 & 28 inch marks.
Did you use tip wedges?
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I still would like to see the whole bow at brace... Hold it up just like the last two pics against that white block wall but at brace...
You never answered my question about your other bows that you are comparing to ( black widow)... Are they the same length?? How long are they??
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Use tiller tree. Trace both ends at every inch. Then fold the paper in half and compare bending. I guess a big piece of tracing paper. Tying to acheive both limbs arrive at brace at the same time.
Sent from my LM-X410.F using Tapatalk
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Monterey, what are tip wedges lol. Also what are power lams?
The bow I've been comparing to is my SA widow 58". 48# @ 28. The sa have a 16" riser I believe. I wish I had another take down to compare with. My only other bows are a Morrison ilf and an old bear kodiak hunter.
The old lady in bed now so the brace height pic is gonna have to wait :biglaugh:
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Wake her up.... Tell her that it is very important... :laughing:
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A tip wedge is a fine tapered insert in the tip of the limb meant to stiffen and decrease the bend of the tip. On your bow it would cause the tips to bend less and therefore would be further forward at full draw. That would decrease the string angle and would mitigate stack.
Here's a picture of a limb tip wedge. It's the dark line in the core.
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Shredd you're trying to get me in trouble. Was hard enough to get her to take a decent full draw pic Haha.
Monterey, thanks for the explanation. The tip wedge seems a little advanced for my skill set at this point in time. But I do appreciate the explanation and tip.
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No skill involved, just another lam. All in all, I think you have a working bow there.