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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Forwardhandle on October 30, 2019, 05:09:37 PM
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There has been a lot of interest in these TD risers lately including me ,I never made one so any tips are welcome do you guys use any specialized shop jigs ? Or when cutting the pad angles do you use just a plain old mitre guide/table saw or power mitre saw ? Any help is appreciated , so far I'm just planing on squaring up my riser block 1 1/2" x 3" and cutting the pad angles , drill the pilot holes & alignment holes ?
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Check your pads for square with side of riser block. If you don'=t have a good drill jig, you can put the insert in the center of riser best you can in the right place from end, drill the limb for the 5/16 bolt, bolt them on and string from tip to tip and adjust for alignment, then drill thru limb and into riser, then put an overlay on back of limb to cover the pin hole. Many ways to skin a cat.
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Yup..
That's zactly how I do it, Kenny.
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Have your block sides parallel with each other. Then when you cut your pad angles they will be square. If you have access to a self centering drill jig us it. I used one for years not perfect but will work.
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I did mine like Kenny said because I only made about 6
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Check your pads for square with side of riser block. If you don'=t have a good drill jig, you can put the insert in the center of riser best you can in the right place from end, drill the limb for the 5/16 bolt, bolt them on and string from tip to tip and adjust for alignment, then drill thru limb and into riser, then put an overlay on back of limb to cover the pin hole. Many ways to skin a cat.
Thank you as this is the way ill be doing it :biglaugh: I did not pre drill :banghead:
and still have an original flat 90 deg surface to reference from on the opposite side of the arrow rest
cheers all
John
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Thanks all I'm thinking of getting this jig I think it's the one Mike recommended I can't find that thread https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000022419/?coliid=I2N3SAGSP632IV&colid=1PD149WAC9NN7&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
It reviews well , I'm making my first out of solid Maple as a test to work my bugs out ! I suppose it would make more sense to keep it as a block with pads cut & hardware on as to make it easer for precision drilling !
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You can use the 7/16s hole for the limb bolt insert. I would still mount the limb and line it up before drilling the pin hole.That way you have a limb for each end. because 99 times out of a 100 if you do each hole by its self they aint gonna line up right.
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Mike is that the right jig you recommended ?
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27/64 drill
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Actually Kenny I think had a guy send him a jig that has the holes already spaced right. And his video is on here somewhere will be a lot less room for error. Sandbox acres is what he went by.
Max I have drilled several 100 bows with 7/16 for the inserts with no problems.
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Yep
more room for smooth-on
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Kenny said that jig is still so,so ,Im going to make one out of plexy or wood for marking , I will order that centering jig later !
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He is right. The best way is a two pin drilling jig that is bolted to a flat surface.
(https://i.imgur.com/OdgNYQQ.jpg)
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Now that's a Jig ! :biglaugh:
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I have a jig similar to Stic's but mine is 12" long... I clamp it to a flat piece of granite... Trick is to make a second wooden jig to go over the metal one... It will guide you drill bits straighter... You will get truer hole placement and there will be less wear on the metal jig... You need multiple holes... 27/64", 5/16" and/or 11/32"... You also might want 1/2" to guide your tap in straight... Just because you have a 90* hole does not mean your tap will follow it...
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I think you may have issues with that centering jig unless you are gonna do one-off bows and thru drill your limbs for pins... Alignment has to be within a couple of thou or exact...
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Well it's ether that or measure & drill and then make templets of each pad for follow up limbs , that's why I'm trying to see what every body's doing !
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Kenny has the best plan..
Check your pads for square with side of riser block. If you don't have a good drill jig, you can put the insert in the center of riser best you can in the right place from end, drill the limb for the 5/16 bolt, bolt them on and string from tip to tip and adjust for alignment, then drill thru limb and into riser, then put an overlay on back of limb to cover the pin hole. Many ways to skin a cat.
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Shredd I have drill bushings for the big hole 7/16s 3/8s and 5/16s. And if you drill the 1/4s where the dowell sticks out of the riser about 3/16s everything is fine.
And if ya got no jig do what Kenny said.
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:shaka: Good deal, mr. Fancy Pants... :laugh:
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How are you guys aligning your limbs before drilling the alignment holes when using Kenny's method ?
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Run a string right across the center of both limb bolts over the limb ends with a weight on each end to keep it tight. And move your limbs center the string on the tips still keeping it centered on the riser.
My jig is prolly fancier than your Shredd. :wavey:
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Thanks Mike that's how I do my one peace bows , sounds the same with the exception of the bolts , that is a pretty fancy jig you got there, but I don't know about your pants :goldtooth:
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You can sit the un-tapered limbs and the riser on a very flat surface and drill all your holes... Or you can drill the bolt holes and do all your limb shaping and then string up the bow and if a limb is a tad out of alignment you can move the limb over a bit and then drill your holes... In the second method just make sure the a limb does not get knocked to one side and fold up on you.... Also in the second method all the pressure will be on one side of the bolt so your bolt hole will be slightly out of allignment... So I would start with 5/16" holes in your limbs and then maybe widen them later on if the bolt does not line up to go in...
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Yeah... But mine is bigger... ;) :laugh: I just have this machined last week... I am gonna have more holes drilled in it... Other than the pin holes, right now I have 5/16" and 11/32" holes drilled in it...
Here is my latest project... Sold to my friends nephew... 45#
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The bow looks good rich
do you use 5/16" dowels ?
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Do ya clamp that jig to a table top on its side or what.?
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1/4" pins...
Yes... Clamp it to the table on it's side... Tried using the drill press, the holes were accurate but it was a PITA... I tried drilling with a hand held drill but my holes were off a tad... I now use a 1 1/2" block of wood in unison with the jig and a hand held drill and I get precise holes...
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This is better.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191101/7697011804fd0cc696ef3fb20c114ade.jpg)
Sent from my LM-X410.F using Tapatalk
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I like that Sheoak :thumbsup: That full draw profile looks pretty sweet too!
Ritchie, I have a centering jig that I think I used once. Wasn't useful for anything I was doing. Be happy to donate it to your cause if you can use it.
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I will PM you when I get home !
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That one would be the one you want with the removable pilots. put the 1/4 and the 27/64 or whatever in and drill both holes at once and get perfect spacing. will work but not perfect.
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Yer ah good man, Clem...
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Roy, your gonna make me wet myself :laughing:
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Nice set-up Stic...
Thanks Flem... That is about as light as it gets... The color can vary... This is actually my first finished take-down... I did not want to get too complicated... I wish I would have put a smaller radius for the accents though... That would have put them a little more center in the riser...
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Ya Shreddy, I don't like it either.
LOL
:wavey:
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:) :wavey:
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Great info guy's
I did it the same way with either bingham jig, self centering jig as shown.
got tired of all that a few years ago invested in a used mill/drill for about 800.00 bucks.
rigged up with a DRO and I can drill pads to exact specs each time.
the mill also is good for flycutting pads, and wedge are of limbs.