Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: UrsusNil on October 22, 2019, 10:19:51 AM
-
Hi gang,
I'm anxiously awaiting delivery of a new Bear Super Kodiak from 3 Rivers. The bow is 45#, so about 41# at my 26" draw. I've tried pure instinctive shooting, but favor a split vision method with split fingers draw.
After watching some videos on YouTube I would like to try a three finger under draw, kind of a gap/split vision hybrid method. My question is how will a three finger under draw change the bow set-up? Will the nocking point be higher than split fingers, arrow spine heavier/lighter??
Of course I anticipate tuning the bow/arrow, I'm just looking for a starting point. Thanks for your help!
-
Usually a 3 under set up will need a slightly higher nock point.
-
A good place to start would be a nocking point of 5/8”. With 3 under, a second nocking point under the arrow is recommended, because the arrow tends to slide down the string on release when using a 3 under hold. At first, the arrow nock fit on the string may be tight enough that a second nock is not needed. Over time, it will hopefully loosen up a little and that is when you will need a second nock underneath. If it doesn't loosen up, that means it was probably too tight a fit to begin with, and you'll have to do something about it. Most people use snap on nocks when shooting 3 under, and it shouldn't take too much force to snap one on even when the string and nock are new.
Since you will be using two nocks, tied on nocks are preferred by most, since two metal nocks are a lot of metal swishing around up there waiting to cut into your cheek.
A good starter arrow would be a .600 carbon shaft with a 100 or 125 grain point cut to 28” for your draw length Of 26”. The equivalent in aluminum would be 1816 or 1916. For hunting you might want a .500 shaft with a much heavier broadhead somewhere in the range of 150-200 grains.
-
It will change. But don't worry about it. Just tune the bow when it comes. Set your tie on nocking point intentionally high or low, and shoot it until you are positive you can see a porpoise in arrow flight and then slowly adjust your nocking point by twisting on the string until the porpoising is gone! It will be fine.
I don't use a second nocking point for 3 under because I do a lot of fast shooting and nock arrows by feel, but if you are a slow shooter, Mcdave is right. A second nocking point would help a lot.
-
Thanks guys, it's the little details that will make this easier.
-
I shoot 3 under and my nocking point is generally at 5/8th also.
I also suggest two nocking points.
-
How far under the arrow is the second nocking point. I just started 3u
-
I struggled with trad and have it up twice.
This is my third time and now 5 years straight.
Only thanks to John Wert at LAS who put me onto three under.
I have a horrible release and drag the third finger.
I have to set bottom of top nock poin 3/4" above square for carbons and 7/8" above for my XX75 2216 arrows.
An elevated rest will help lower the nock poin is relation to square. But I like off the shelf and aluminums, so 7/8" it is..
-
How far under the arrow is the second nocking point. I just started 3u
This will vary depending on the size of the arrow nocks. You want a little play when the arrow is nocked, because when you draw the arrow, the arrow nock will be squeezed between the string nocks, and the force might move the string nocks apart, causing problems with the serving. I would say about 1/32” of play; just enough that you can feel it when you move the arrow nock up and down between the string nocks.
You can minimize the nock height you need, and it is also good form, to put most of the pressure on your index and middle fingers, and very little on your ring finger, when your shoot 3 under. Since I learned to do this, my average nock height has gone from about 3/4” to about 5/8”.
-
How far under the arrow is the second nocking point. I just started 3u
This will vary depending on the size of the arrow nocks. You want a little play when the arrow is nocked, because when you draw the arrow, the arrow nock will be squeezed between the string nocks, and the force might move the string nocks apart, causing problems with the serving. I would say about 1/32” of play; just enough that you can feel it when you move the arrow nock up and down between the string nocks.
You can minimize the nock height you need, and it is also good form, to put most of the pressure on your index and middle fingers, and very little on your ring finger, when your shoot 3 under. Since I learned to do this, my average nock height has gone from about 3/4” to about 5/8”.
Cool thanks
-
Just got the Super Kodiak today, it is sweet! I haven't done much 3 under shooting with it, I need to replace the nocks on my arrows. I have them set up for B50, so they are a little loose with the fast flight string. I also have a 3 under tab on the way, nice to have but not necessary.
Been working on the brace height. I've worked up to 8.25" and it's still pretty loud. I've been shooting a Mahaska longbow, which is dead quiet, so this one seems very loud to me!
-
Here's a tip: tune the loudness out while shooting 3-under. The slight additional stress on the lower limb from holding three under can mean a change in the sound of your bow, (slightly louder), that is, unless the limbs were tillered for 3-under to begin with.
After tuning sound by brace height, I add my string silencer with the lower one slightly closer to the nocking point than the upper (by 3-4"). And then moving both silencers closer and farther toward center depending on sound.
There was a recent thread about this aspect of 3-under entitled "bow noise and 3-under," by the way.
-
There is only so much brace height adjustments will do to eliminate noise. I recommend setting your brace height at 8” and then do something different to eliminate noise or just learn to live with it.
-
McDave, that's where I'm at. To me the noise sounds about the same, split finger or 3 under. I've never used fast-flight string, I think it just sounds louder to me, coming from a longbow with B50. Some moleskin on the tips should dampen most of it. I tried brush buttons, but they made it much louder!
-
McDave, that's where I'm at. To me the noise sounds about the same, split finger or 3 under. I've never used fast-flight string, I think it just sounds louder to me, coming from a longbow with B50. Some moleskin on the tips should dampen most of it. I tried brush buttons, but they made it much louder!
Buttons make more noise. It probably just you lol.
My Bear TD is quite when I’m listening to my son shoot it, but not “longbow” quiet. When I shoot it, it sounds louder but it’s just me.