Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Forwardhandle on September 28, 2019, 05:40:49 AM
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I know the natural bow guys have been using this finish for a while , does any body have a recipe ratio ? or any other input ?
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I think a finishing epoxy would be better because it is thinner. Go at least 50 percent acetone.
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Thanks Mike thats a good Idea Im not trying to use it as a top coat, Im just trying to match the lam color & its maple probably would soak in nice :thumbsup:
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I did some arrows with it, mixed the glue first, cut with acetone 50/50 and mixed. It is a bit of a chore to get stirred together due to the different viscosity but the wife's mixer works well...
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Thanks Kenny well I better put some pics up before I get reprimanded :o
As soon as this cures in about 20 more minutes & shaped I will start experimenting !
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Remember, wife’s mixer or blender works great... LOL
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How did the finish turn out Kenny? Gloss, semi....?
Apparently you’ve recovered from the concussion you received from the wife for using her mixer :biglaugh:
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Don't let him fool ya, he has his own cupcake mixer:)
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I use Two Ton epoxy, the two tube type. I squeeze equal amounts of hardener and resin in a baby food jar, about 1/2 teaspoon of each, fill the jar about half full with acetone and mix everything up with a popsicle stick, mixing is easy and quick. I mix a small amount and use it up before I mix more as it will only keep for a few days before setting up.
The above mix is enough to finish a bow with 5 or 6 coats, I once used it on arrows as well but have gotten lazy since.
I use a small square of Tee shirt to apply the finish, you only get one quick swipe before the epoxy acetone gets tacky. I let a coat cure overnight unless it is really hot out in my shop at which point the finish cures quickly in a couple of hours.
This is the most durable finish I have ever used, i can loose an arrow under the grass for 6 months, the feathers will be toast but the shaft will still be pristine, moisture doesn't get through this stuff.
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BSI makes a 20 minute finishing epoxy that works well. Sets up pretty quick and is super clear. The model airplane guys use it so, hobby stores or online.
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Thanks guys Kenny I can't find her mixer & she is not here ,but she has one of those nifty cordless rotating tooth brushes I will give that a go :bigsmyl:
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There ya go!! We will need before and after pics … of you! :)
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I bet you better hide your tooth brush first. :bigsmyl:
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:biglaugh:
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Brad, honestly I can't remember, but it was durable and no target burn with it.
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Jesse thanks I just ordered some BSI finish epoxy worth a shot a $12, the rest of the thin epoxy's are $30 or more , I will let you guys know how it works but the model wood boat builders use it so I'm guessing it's water proof all though I don't worry about water sense I have been using ceramic wax as my last coat no water could get threw !
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I have been using this stuff as of late for non structural overlays and the likes it matches smooth on glue lines its a little thinner then smooth on but gap fills nice I would bet it would thin out nice & cure quick for a finish !
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That's a similar epoxy to what Eric suggested. It is basically a "Massey Finish", named for Jay Massey after he started using a similar mix to seal his sinew backed bows for the wet climate in Alaska. I use it for sealing the hemp cord handle wraps I use on my bows.
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Yep that's it I couldn't remember who but I read about that finish years ago the Bsi is interesting as it's pour mix & play I guess it gets chemicly warm like some epoxies, I'm just doing the riser and sides of the lams, I'm not using it over the glass all though you could !
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Got my order of this stuff Im going to test it out & post ,the good thing is no mixer or tooth brush required to mix :biglaugh:
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Excited to see how this turns out. Especially since that epoxy is very reasonably priced!
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Troy D Breeding used this finish. I think you have to wait until the chemical curing starts (warms up) before cutting with acetone. When I tried this finish the first coat never cured.