Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Shredd on September 10, 2019, 01:18:07 PM
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Hey have any of you guys have tips on adding weight to an arrow other than a heavier tip... I am using the arrows for testing the speed of the bows and I want to keep a 500 spine... I have a 400 spine arrow which is heavier but it does not shoot right through the the lower poundage bows and the numbers are always skewed to being lower... I heard that there are different things that you could put inside the arrow... It would be nice to have a set of arrows in 15 to 20gr. increments...
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I'm a wood shooter so certainly not "the word" on aluminium or carbon but I see quite a few options on insert weight using aluminium, brass and steel. Would that help?
What would be the purpose of arrows in incremental weights??
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I take mine to the gas station and pump air into them from the nock ends.
The higher the air pressure, the heavier it makes em.
And when it gets hot, they fly faster cause the hot air rises.
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I am using them to test bow speeds... So I need arrows close to 10gpp for different weight bows...
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I take mine to the gas station and pump air into them from the nock ends.
The higher the air pressure, the heavier it makes em.
And when it gets hot, they fly faster cause the hot air rises.
Nifty... I'll have to try that... Do you use leaded or un-leaded air?? Sounds more like you are full of Hot Air... :biglaugh:
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I take mine to the gas station and pump air into them from the nock ends.
The higher the air pressure, the heavier it makes em.
And when it gets hot, they fly faster cause the hot air rises.
How about using helium? Probably get a flatter trajectory. :)
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3 rivers archery, arrow building, screw in weights systems
https://www.3riversarchery.com/buy/arrows/arrow-building/weight-systems
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Hey Roy why not load them with own Methane gas and rig a striker that works when you drop the string --May get some un heard arra speeds :laughing: :laughing: :bigsmyl:
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Been looking for a rear adapter hose, Mike:)
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That's It!! I am banning you guys from my thread... :saywhat: :laughing:
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I helped :bigsmyl:
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Weedeater line or small rubber tubing. Adds weight without effecting spine.
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Shredd-
As Bvas suggested, adding weedeater line to the inside of a carbon shaft increases the weight. I have been playing with it some in the last week or so. I got Lisa's kitchen scale out to measure how many grains per inch of line was possible (had to convert ounces to grains... grams might have been easier). I found that it is VERY variable depending on line diameter and shape, i.e. is it smooth round or have the edges.
I don't know if you are supposed to glue-tack it in place inside the shaft or what. Using pieces shorter than the length of the arrow makes it hard to get the line out after you shoot the arrow. The plastic line scrunches down towards the tip. My experience is that it does change the way the arrow flies a little.
I know you said that you were using carbons (maybe alums?) but I also know from experience that you can change the weight of wood arrows by using different clear coats or soaking varnishes and varying the soak time. I have found that good Spar Varnish is the heaviest of what I use and the cheap water based wipe-on poly is the lightest. I use a dip tube to apply all the finishes. I haven't made any wood shafts from scratch (just re-fletched and new points) in a long time though.
Good luck with your experimenting. I am looking forward to seeing the results from the newly incorporated SHREDDLABS LLC.
OkKeith
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I prefer Paracord to weed eater line. I haven't fooled with it for a long time, but I believe it weighs about a grain per inch.
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Thanks for the ideas guys... I like coating the arrow with finish or even coating the inside of the arrow... I wonder if it would take a lot of coats to bring me up to weight... Someone else suggested using epoxy filler... I like these ideas because they are solid... I don't want anything moving around in the arrow... It could skew the numbers... Adding weight to the tips is not the answer... It will make the spine flex more and I will be back where I started... An arrow not flying straight or spined correctly for the bow...
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Weedeater line or small rubber tubing. Adds weight without effecting spine.
Have you bareshafted after doing this? I'm with Keith, in my experience it does affect dynamic spine making them stiffer (not static though).
There are plenty of options, vinyl tubing, irrigation tubing, wooden dowels (noisy though!), sand......but they do need to be full length as you suggest and it sucks trying to get stuff out if you've got a nock bushing too!!!! Wraps might be an option depending on how much weight you want to add.
I'm sure there is some relationship between adding weight at the tip and the tail that doesn't affect dynamic spine, but what % it would require may take some shooting to work out. The relationship may not be linear either i.e. if you have to add say 5gr in the nock to offset 25gr up front, at 50gr up front it may not be 10gr. It may be possible to JB weld a nut into the nock so that you can then cut lengths of threaded rod/bolt to tune each arrow weight and just use heavier points/inserts.
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Weedeater line or small rubber tubing. Adds weight without effecting spine.
Have you bareshafted after doing this? I'm with Keith, in my experience it does affect dynamic spine making them stiffer (not static though).
There are plenty of options, vinyl tubing, irrigation tubing, wooden dowels (noisy though!), sand......but they do need to be full length as you suggest and it sucks trying to get stuff out if you've got a nock bushing too!!!! Wraps might be an option depending on how much weight you want to add.
I'm sure there is some relationship between adding weight at the tip and the tail that doesn't affect dynamic spine, but what % it would require may take some shooting to work out. The relationship may not be linear either i.e. if you have to add say 5gr in the nock to offset 25gr up front, at 50gr up front it may not be 10gr. It may be possible to JB weld a nut into the nock so that you can then cut lengths of threaded rod/bolt to tune each arrow weight and just use heavier points/inserts.
I had done it in the past with rubber tubing in aluminums. I cut the rubber tubing just slightly longer than needed so that it was wedged in place. I didn't really notice any change in the dynamic spine. At least not as much as it would change if that weight was added as point weight.
That was in my early trad years. Maybe I just wasn't as picky (or educated) about arrow flight back then :dunno:
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5/32” shock cord full length of the arrow plus about an inch so it wedges in there. Adds right at 100 grains
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I have some weight tubes from 3-Rivers. What length shafts are you shooting ?
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The shaft is 30 1/2"...
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Sorry for the delay Shredd. Think the spares I have are 29ish.
I'll check 2morrow and give ya a shout
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Thanks Bro... I have it taken are of...
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I might be OCD. I have been contemplating the heavy shaft dilemma. I only shoot wood and find it hard to make heavy shafts that are not too stiff. Seems you would want a filler material that flexed with the shaft, but did not absorb any energy on impact. After thinking about what might work for a week now, I think I know what I would try, D3o. It's an infused polyurethane material that is somewhat soft and flexible, but stiffens on impact. They use it for impact protection, cell phone cases, etc. I demoed some MTB knee pads that had the stuff for padding. It was flexible while riding, but if you smacked it with a stick or rock, it would get hard on impact.