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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: razorsharptokill on August 10, 2019, 10:00:06 PM
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After about 150 shots and some finish sanding it pulls 48 @ 27". The pic of it on the tree was before I got the fades bending. I finally learned to make a string, should have done that LONG ago.
Had a scare while shooting it. I noticed a crack along the edge on the lower limb belly. Never heard a tick or pop. After further exam I feel that it is the remains of a drying crack. I filled it with super glue and so far have had not had a a kaboom or any pop knots. Will keep shooting it and keep an eye on it
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To my untrained eye the bend is looking great sweet little Osage Brutha!
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Thank you. I hope to deflate something it it this Fall. >>>------------------>
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The right limb looks stiff right off the fade. It's causing too much bend just beyond. Other than that it looks good. :thumbsup:
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That pic was taken before I addressed the fades more.
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Will you post a braced and full draw again. Maybe a full draw with you drawing. You drawing will give a different picture than the static pic of the tree.
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Here is one from yesterday. It is not quite perpendicular to the limb edges though. It appears that the top limb is still a little stiff off of the fade. I noticed a tiny little lift of the handle I glued on at the fades also.
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Looks like a nice profile from here :thumbsup: Looks like your form is about perfect too, maybe just move your index finger up a little :bigsmyl: I think you get the most points for style, every time I see a picture of you, I feel like having a Margarita by the pool :notworthy:
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Ha! I built a shave horse so I can work on bows by the pool. I need to add a tiller block to the pergola!
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Looks good, Jim. Like you said she's still a bit stiff above the handle but she will make meat. :thumbsup:
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A little better. Noticed the handle block is slight more lifted now. I'm thinking some super thin CA glue down between the two surfaces and a clamp might mate the two back up.
Shot some spine testing arrows through it and the 35-40 spine arrows seem to fly the best. I am still getting porpoising no matter where I set the nock height though.
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Looks like you could raise the nock point a bit. I usually start about 3/8" above perpendicular then adjust from there.
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I have moved it all the way from 90 degrees up to 1/2". Still gets nock high. I cut the window in a little more. I need to bare shaft too I guess.
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Porpoising is almost always caused by a stiff limb, I can't tell from the full draw picture which one it is. The problem is; if the bottom limb is stiff it will snatch the arrow nock down, bounce it off the rest and send it out of the bow nock high. If the top limb is stiff it will snatch the nock high off the rest as well.
The first thing I do is review my tiller on the tree for any stiff spots out of the fades or limbs. A little stiff spot will change limb performance to get the limbs out of time.
If I am still mystified as to which limb is the culprit I take a guess from what I see on the tree and sand the limb a little and see if the porpoising gets better or worse. If you can figure it out it is pretty amazing how the porpoising will gradually go away and the hand shock will fade away as the limbs get in time.
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Hand shock has definitely diminished. The arrows are leaving a mark on the window at the 1st 1/2" of arrow travel through the window. Maybe a slow mo vid of the shot would show some thing as well.
I will check the tiller again with the gizmo set very fine.
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I've never experienced porposing, so I might be off track. Maybe try eliminating some variables. Did you tiller for 3 under, if not that would throw off the limb timing. Try shooting split fingers to check. Also it looks like you have about 5" of arrow sticking out past the back of the bow, can't hurt to try a shorter arrow and see what happens. Good luck!
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The arrows are from a spine test kit so I left them all long. I guess it makes sense to cut them shorter equally to a couple inches past my draw length. I will start tinkering with the variables one at a time and try to eliminate them.
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Sweet... I didn't know that you could get a stick to bend like that...
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Splinters lifting on upper limb back about mid limb. There is a drying crack on the belly that corresponds with these cracks and splinters. Super glue, clamp then rawhide?
Now that I look at it closer in the pic, it looks like a shallow depression where I may have come close to the next ring?
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I had one osage bow do that I use flax tow it's like cat hair very strong stuff & did a tapering patch then raw hide the bow maybe the CA glue would work but that back is showing weakness there !
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I was considering sinew for a patch them snake skin but rawhide 1st would be better.
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I dont know about snake skins never used them but have used sinew as a patch , using sinew you may have to make some minor tiller adjustments I did, the guy that taught me to do the patch recommended going 2" past the bad area each side & sand a taper to the bad area worked for me also with osage I needed to make sure the area was as oil free as I could get it, I used bolling water & dish soap to clean the area !
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Save the shake skin until you are sure she's gonna survive.
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Definetly!
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I patched the offending area with sinew then backed the whole bow with rawhide, Shot it a lot and it looks like it is going to survive. Timber rattler skins over rawhide, stain and some flat black paint on the tips. I need to wrap the ends of the skin and add pads to the shelf and window to finish this one up. 52lbs @26" was the final draw weight. Very smooth drawing bow.
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Nice job Jim! :thumbsup: Everything about that bow looks good. Classic recurve profile.
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Turned out great, Jim. Well done! :thumbsup:
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Looks great.
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I like it!
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Very nice..
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Thank you all ! I really value all of the experience and knowledge that is combined here in the Bowyers bench. To be validated by such a group of individuals who are such experts in their craft is truly rewarding.
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definition of expert...used to be drip under pressure! :bigsmyl:
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Congratulations to Jim for winning the October Backed Bow of the Month on Primitive Archer. :clapper: :notworthy:
Well done, Jim. :thumbsup:
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Huh!?
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Now you know what lots of others think about your work, Jim and now you'll get your pic and a write up in Primitive Archer Magazine and possibly a PA BOM cap. :goldtooth:
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Nice job
:thumbsup:
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Gratulerer. :)
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Great Job :thumbsup:
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Wow I am honored!