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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Lakerat007 on August 07, 2019, 05:49:16 PM
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Recently got my first taste of 5575's and things didn't go very well :dunno: Upon a web general search I took some advice to determine what shafts to get. The low down.... 46# recurve @28 I draw 28.5 the web guru said a 1916 cut 30". Figured it be easier to get a stiffer shaft leave it full length and just add weight as needed. Opted for a 2016 gamegetter (2 spines heavier that what I was told by the guru) I've cut the shaft as short as I can and down to a 100 gr head with past recommended bh to get this sucker to tune. Still at about 9.5 gpp once tuned and I can live with that. But it seems in the carbon world I could have really loaded up a .500 shaft and had a bit more length. Do these figures seem normal? What would be a recommended aluminum shaft for my set up if I wanted the length 30" and around a 525 gr finished weight. Thanks for any opinions
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Why do you want an arrow 1.5" longer than your draw?
Cut it to 29" and add heavier point. The arrow will act stiffer and be heavier in grain weight.
What is your actual bow weight at your draw length? Have you ever scaled it.
1916's were too weak for your setup. 2016's may be right but 2018's would be better, or 2114's if you absolutely want to use a 30" BOP arrow. Remember every inch beyond 28" weakens the spine by about 5#. Every 25 grains additional point weight weakens spine by about 5#.
1916 spines at 53#
2016 spines at 62#
2114 spines at 64#
2018 spines at 68#
All above are for 28"BOP arrow.
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I shoot 47# @ 27”. A 2016 cut to 29” BOP and a 200 grain point work very well. It weighs 550, I think. You should try it, I think it will work. You may want to try a 175 grain point too. Chad
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Why do you want an arrow 1.5" longer than your draw?
Cut it to 29" and add heavier point. The arrow will act stiffer and be heavier in grain weight.
What is your actual bow weight at your draw length? Have you ever scaled it.
1916's were too weak for your setup. 2016's may be right but 2018's would be better, or 2114's if you absolutely want to use a 30" BOP arrow. Remember every inch beyond 28" weakens the spine by about 5#. Every 25 grains additional point weight weakens spine by about 5#.
1916 spines at 53#
2016 spines at 62#
2114 spines at 64#
2018 spines at 68#
All above are for 28"BOP arrow.
I wanted a 30" (1.5" longer than my draw) arrow cause all my shafts for others bows are cut that length and I'm goofy that way. Just seems carbons are way easier to tune for me cause u got the nock end to cut on. This constant hot gluing inserts, cleaning and repeat is a real pita. These 2016s are currently cut to 28.5 and just using a standard insert and 100gr point to tune. If I add any more head weight it's pretty badly weak. I put on a flipper rest and really built it out to get bareshafts to fly great. No I never have scaled this bow figured worse case these 2016s would have enough wiggle room. Which they do but I might order some stiffer ones so I can add a bit more head weight and give me a lil longer shaft. Just all the diff numbers are confusing to me and I'm not exactly sure what size to get so I get the results I want. Looks like 2018s might be the way to go. Thanks for the help.
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I shoot 30 " 1916's out of my 45# Bear recurve with 125 Zwickeys and have no problems. The bear I killed at 7 yards had a problem with that arrow though, lol.
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I think if you have a 2016 cut that short with a 100 grain tip,you are way too stiff.
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Not to be rude... But did we go back to bare shaft? Did we consider our center of shelf? I have had many " similar" spine arrows act completely different Even matching total grain can mean nothing. It's the materials in the arrow. PM if you want to talk further.
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Not to be rude... But did we go back to bare shaft? Did we consider our center of shelf? I have had many " similar" spine arrows act completely different Even matching total grain can mean nothing. It's the materials in the arrow. PM if you want to talk further.
Thanks! I was at my bitter end yesterday and just about ready to take u up on your pm offer after some light string slapping. Had my wife video me and problem now solved. As usual I was the prob in the situation. This is by far the lightest bow I have ever shot. Turns out I was pulling back to around my ear and the flipper rest let me over draw the shelf. Just don't feel that sweet spot like I do with heavier bows so I just kept pulling. Plan on practicing with it for awhile and hopefully get that prob ironed out. Thanks for all the replies guys
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Constant anchor point is indeed critical for consistent arrow flight. :archer2: