Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: razorsharptokill on June 16, 2019, 10:16:03 AM
-
Had to trim the length due to a crack at one tip and severe twist in the last 4" of the other. Ended up being 54" NTN. With the shortened length and the bullet hole mid limb, should it be sinewed? My draw is 27".
I now have the tiler closer to equal than in the last pic. Sinew then finish tillering once dry?
-
I wouldn't worry about the knot hole in the limb. It looks pretty sound. I would suggest adding sinew. That draw length would probably be OK but sinew would make it almost for certain. Add the sinew now, reverse bracing a bit to encourage reflex when the sinew dries, correct the tiller and adjust the weight after the sinew has cured out.
-
That is what I was thinking too. Planning on hunting with it this Fall.
-
Well, you better get started. :thumbsup:
-
Sinew around the hole or over it? I will probably add snake skin or rawhide backing as well.
-
I would go around the knot hole with the sinew and cut out the snake skin to emphasize the hole in the limb.
-
You cover that hole and we will ban you from the Bowyers Bench for life..
LOL
:wavey:
-
:biglaugh: ok thanks guys.
-
It may make a good peep sight.
LOL
-
Sinew is on and drying now. Reverse strung it for a little reflex. Will be interesting to see what this little bow will do when it is finished... IF it survives... LOL.
I noticed a couple places that I didn't get enough glue squeezed out on the lower limb. Hope it doesn't crack and pop when I draw it. it's jelled now, I can feel a slight give to it when i press on it. Every bow teaches me something new.
There are two places where I didn't get sinew all the way to the edge. They are out near the tip on one limb.
-
You can add more sinew now to fill the voids and maybe even be able to remove some of the excess glue. If you heat the glue slightly it should make it runny again so you can add sinew over that or remove some of the excess glue.
-
The glue is Titebond III and has been drying since Sunday the 23rd of June. Still possible?
-
Oops, never mind. :bigsmyl: You could still fill the voids just by adding glue and laying the sinew in that.
I also wouldn't worry about the glue popping and cracking. That is what hide glue will do if it's too thick but I doubt if the TBIII will.
-
How long to cure the sinew and glue before tillering? It feels dry to the touch with no give even in the areas I thought I had too much glue. I have it in my truck during the 90 degree days here in Oklahoma.
-
The sinew will take longer to dry especially encased in the TBIII. The glue is acting like a vapor barrier so any moisture will have to be drawn into the wood and work it's way through that.
-
So, weeks to months before it is fully cured? When wil it be safe to string it and tiller?
-
I've never used TBIII for sinew so I really don't know. When I build a sinew backed bow with hide glue I wait a month after each layer before I move to the next layer and a month after the last layer before stressing the bow. Others don't wait that long.
-
The 23rd of July will be a month the glue and sinew has been drying. The bow feels MUCH stiffer now.
-
...and it will feel even stiffer on the 23rd. ;)
-
One tip had some twist to one side that I heated and took out. It has returned. Can I heat that tip and bend it again with the sinew applied?
-
No, TB glues break down at 150deg. The twist may not affect anything adversely. The moisture in the glue and sinew is probably responsible for the twist returning. If it affects the tiller you can adjust the tiller by thinning the stiff side of the twist. I would wait until it's ready to brace and see what then.
-
Here it is after I have worked on the tiller. Thoughts?
-
Nice but seems a little flat just outside of the riser on both limbs.
-
Yeah with a bow this short it needs all of the working limb it can get I guess.
-
Getting closer.
-
Yes it is and looking nice..
-
Jim, get a little more bend just above and below the handle. The bend should come into the fades.
-
The Bow looks pretty good, but I'm more interested in the Castle looking building in the background.
Thats some interesting architecture.
-
That is a very oddly designed house.
-
Ole Flem is strangely attracted to odd structures and gadgets:)
:laughing:
:wavey:
-
If it's weird, count me in :bigsmyl:
-
I am nearing completion of this bow. I think it will come in at about 48 at 28". I shot a 30.5" GT 35/55 with a 200 gr point and 150 grains of brass weight behind the insert. It hits about 3" nock right. Stiff I believe. I haven't bought any shafts in a while and I see that they are now spined by deflection rather than a weight range (like 35/55). Is a 500 spine the same as a 35/55?
The bow is close to center shot and I am resting the arrow on the top finger of my bow hand. The bow is sinew backed so it will pick up a few pounds in the winter I suppose. Suggestions?
-
Well I discovered that the measurements on my tree were off! I ended removing more wood up and pulling it past my intended draw length to get to my target draw weight. Probably to almost 29"! Sinew is amazing stuff! So at my draw of 27" it is now right at 37lbs :banghead: When I was still at what I thought was 23" my draw weight would have probably been good. Oh well I think that the sinew will add a few pounds when it cools off outside.
Maybe another layer of sinew would add some draw weight?
-
Jim, IMO, you have over stressed this bow. I'd leave it as it is and start a new one. Adding more sinew might increase the draw weight but I don't think it will improve the performance.
-
Lesson learned. It will make a good youth bow.
-
:thumbsup: Now, that's the way to think. Pass it on!
-
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: