Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: jrstegner on June 02, 2019, 04:02:30 PM
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I am building my first takedown recurve. On the first limb I glued up the belly glass slid down from the butt 1/4" and off center 1/16". My thought is too cut 1/2" off the butt and draw in my profile with my limb template, then make a new center line. Is that doable or do I need to put in the burn barrel?
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Pic plz
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Prob just need to clean up slippage portion and make both limbs alike for width and wedge length .
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Thanks for the response guys. I will get a picture tonight when I get home from work.
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You can see it didn't move much to the side, but my center line on the belly is off from the center line on the back.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190603/431c259efb5c2687a54d60f902c3b5e3.jpg)
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You can go at the fades with a rasp or file from the sides until you have taken it down to a point where the rasp is up against all of the laminations. Do that on all four of the limb edges at the fades. Then measure for the exact center at the fades between the limb edges. Clamp a flexible straight edge like a metal yardstick in alignment with the center marks and draw a line. Extend it to the limb tips. That's the working center of the bow blank. It also represents the max width of the bow. If it runs way off tip to tip you may have to settle for a bit narrower than the fade widths.
If you have two different center lines now, probably neither is correct.
Take it from the king of slippin and slidin lams and risers! :)
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If you have a drum sander, you could run that limb thru along with the other limb and get them exactly the same width.
Then mark the center line.
That's how Crookedstic makes his limbs even. I thunk?
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I never mark center til after glue up due to stuff moving when you put the bow snot on it.
Good info above...
I have a thickness sander and clean one side of the blank up to a good edge, then run it thru sander a few times to clean the other side, then a time or two on the first side.
Stay with her , you will get it done!
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Yep drum sander and a sled. Mark center after you get them cleaned up. I find center with a square. From each side make the lines meet in the middle.
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Thanks for the advice guys. I will get to work on it tomorrow.
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You guys and yer thickness sanders. Probably have turn signals on yer cars too.
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I got a newer truck, it has high tech 4 way flashers.
But no one knows which direction I'm turning:)
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But no one knows which direction I'm turning:)
Avery true statement right there. :wavey:
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Marty pants:)
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Mine has a sign on it that says "if you can't see my mirrors it's because I don't have any".
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I use laser cutted metal templates. Used with a center-line. Works perfect.
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I use laser cutted metal templates. Used with a center-line. Works perfect.
I can see how that would be very accurate.
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I don't use that gwa gwas gwass stuff.
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Makes you st stu stutter huh ? :bigsmyl:
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I got it finished. I had to reduce the width and consequencely it came in about 10# light, but 48# ought to be good enough. I'll just have to build another for Moose.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190622/702d0d7696278dce902e05333c0daed3.jpg)
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Looks good and is still a very functional weight. Nice thing about takedowns is you’ll have an extra set of limbs now.
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It would take a lot of width reduction to drop 10 lbs. Probably was just light to begin with.
I clean up my limbs to a parallel thickness and leave them slightly wide to begin with. Also my limb buts have a small amount of sacrificial material that make the glass slippage a non issue.
After cleaning them up and drilling them, I cable the limbs to give dynamic center... saves a ton of effort later on.
But then, I'm just building bows for the fun of it... all this other crap I do is to pay the bills :)
BigJim