Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Bvas on May 18, 2019, 12:52:44 PM
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Got a good deal on a bunch of 1/8” G10 scraps off the big auction site. I’m gonna try lamming them together along with some wood accents to build a riser. The pieces are only 12” long, so I’m gonna still end up with wood for the fade portion of the riser. I’d like to lam them together somewhat following the radius of the back of the riser.
Anyone done anything similar? Got any pics?
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Nice score Brad! How rigid are they? Never done what your planning. Seems like a stack of them might be kind of stiff proposition to bend very much. Curious to see how you do with it.
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They are a lot stiffer than I thought they’d be. That’s why I say somewhat follow the contour :biglaugh: I think if I glue them in a couple of steps I can get 1/-4-1/2” of deflection without stressing it too much.
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I think if you stay out of working portion of fades you will be good. Thinkin it would make a hinge going from g10 to wood near the bending area...
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I think if you stay out of working portion of fades you will be good. Thinkin it would make a hinge going from g10 to wood near the bending area...
Those were my thoughts too. Did this on my current trade bow.
The only g10 pc I had was 11” so I made do.
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I really dont think the G 10 is doing a lot of good there.
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I think if you stay out of working portion of fades you will be good. Thinkin it would make a hinge going from g10 to wood near the bending area...
That’s what I was thinking as well. I may also put a core tuff power lam in to be safe.
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I really dont think the G 10 is doing a lot of good there.
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I think that was put in to strengthen the two piece handle.
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That will work for the two piece. might be better off center to the window side. Like someone already said a piece of glass on the very front of the riser fade to fade would be a plus.
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Spent some today cutting and grinding pieces for the riser. 17 pieces total. I think this will work. Managed to pull it all down with a single bar clamp.
I think I need to shorten some pieces and stairstep them as I go up. Right now there are some pretty good gaps with just one clamp. Which means there is some pretty good pressure on the tips of the pieces.
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Will be a lot of fun when you get all those pieces covered with epoxy.
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Thats some stiff stuff! Going to look cool with all those layers.
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Brad, will the very ends be glue starved if you shorten them up? Right now the part you cut out is taking the pressure?
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Bue, I was gonna ask if there were any volunteers to do the glue up for me :biglaugh:
I will probably drill and pin one end to help control the slipping and sliding.
Kenny- Funny you say that. I was staring at it thinking the same thing. So I decided to cut them, but I left them all at least 1” outside the cut lines.
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That should help with the ends pressing so hard. This was all theory, never glued 1/8" glass in a circle... :)
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I would figure out where the sight window would be. the part you will cut out later. Then drill and pin it there. The cut most of the excess off the ends. Then glue it Clamp the sides straight while clamping the stack. Dont spare the clamps and be sure your surfaces are ruffed up good.
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I would figure out where the sight window would be. the part you will cut out later. Then drill and pin it there.
Good idea Mike :thumbsup:
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I think I would glue up incrementally. Just a few pieces at a time.
How about glueing with the lams in place beneath for a precise fit?
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I think I would glue up incrementally. Just a few pieces at a time.
How about glueing with the lams in place beneath for a precise fit?
I had thought about doing it in layers, but Im afraid spring back will be more of an issue doing it that way. And if it does spring back much, I fear the G10 will just rip fibers from the wood accents. That's part of the reason I will have G10 lammed to itself in several spots.
I am going to wait til I have the lams and place them in the form. Gotta get my stack figured for this one and one for my wife so I can get an order in to Kenny.
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Well, keep us updated on this. I'm going to do something similar with my next ASL but it will be a reverse curve with reflex in the riser to match the continuous curvature of the bow.
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I’ve been working on getting this riser ready for glue. Added a couple more strips to make it an even 20. 17 didn’t seem like enough of a challenge. :biglaugh: The form and the block of wood on top are .01 wider than the lams, so the lams just slide right between the strips of G10. All that’s left is to drill it for a pin to keep it from sliding top to bottom.
Anyone have a WAG is to how much thickness I will gain with 19 glue joints?
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Holy Moly! That took some engineering. Thats going to look pretty cool, like a huge piece of micarta :thumbsup:
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.038” of glue... lol
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Glue gain? measure it before and after ------- bet not much.
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Jig worked perfectly :thumbsup: I’ll give it a couple hours for the glue to start setting. Then I will strip the sides off the jig. In all honesty, this riser glue up went smoother than any I’ve done before. And the bonus....I should only have to shape the ramps for the bow glue up.
But dang it, I forgot to measure the total stack before glue up :banghead:
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So it was .038" worth of glue!! No way to disprove that!! LMAO
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So it was .038" worth of glue!! No way to disprove that!! LMAO
Hahahahaha
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Did you lay it up on top of the lam stack?
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Should a dyed the glue pink then ya could a measured it. :<)
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Did you lay it up on top of the lam stack?
Yessir. Well, a mock lam stack.
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Should a dyed the glue pink then ya could a measured it. :<)
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I’m building this one for me, not Roy.
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Nice glue up! I have done that with fiberglass strips and it is a challenge with the slippery smooth on... Love the way you did that. I also used bow glass and lams on top of form covered in plastic. I used about 6 or 7 clamps, all my patience and special words......but in the end it was worth it, we still have that longbow and it has been a real nice shooter for my wife.
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Laminating G10 will give you a nice solid riser and you can barely see the lines between the g10 if at all. I've done many solid g10 risers this way, but as blocks. Once glued, I cut and added accent if needed.
Running it in to the fades is not an issue. Feather it out like normal and it will flex as necessary. May add a couple lbs to draw weight but not if you fade it deeper a little.
I have used it in place of many risers without adjusting much of anything and have never had a hinge, or an issue really. I know stock 3/4" g10 so I only have to glue two pieces.
Every bow I build has a g10 I beam. All of them are 3/4" thick except in special circumstances.
BigJim
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So I did a G 10 ibeam a while back. I forgot to change blades on the tablesaw. The first cut went real smooth for length that cleaned up one end. Second cut not too bad. Still needed to trim a little of the end. The blade actually hit the G 10 and kicked the block up. Was able to save it. o I am thinking a bandsaw is the way to go on cutting G 10. With a bi metal blade.
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Mike, that’s part of the reason I laminated this riser the way I did. To eliminate as much cutting as possible. I used an old carbide blade with some chipped teeth on the radial arm saw to cut the G10 strips. Man did it make some sparks :biglaugh:
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lenox tri master is the way to go. Super sharp until you cut glass. after cutting glass or g10, it will cut glass or g10 well until you do something stupid like twist or jam it. I'm talking a year for us. It will cut wood so so but glass and wood well.
BigJim
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As promised. Here is the stacked riser completed. As with every bow I’ve built, it has some flaws :biglaugh: But all and all, I think it turned out pretty good. One thing I did learn.....DON’T use CA as grain filler on black g10 or fiberglass. Any glue left behind will show up as light hazy spots when finished :banghead:
Anyways, hopefully this will be my new “go to” bow, and the bow I take to CO in 2020.
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Now you need some Big Jim Dark Timber arrows for it. It looks really nice.
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Nice job Bvas
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I guess it's ok..
Might look better painted flat black like Stickypops did on his..
:laughing:
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Looking good.
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Looks Great... A lot better than it looked being glued up...
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Now you need some Big Jim Dark Timber arrows for it. It looks really nice.
I plan on it!!!
Gotta figure out what spine it likes first. Probably gonna be 340s with a 250gr VPA up front.
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Sweet bow.
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Finally starting to get some time to do a little shooting. Got some arrows tuned in. The dark timber bow likes the new dark timber arrows :goldtooth:
And that’s 20yds, not 2ft........Roy :biglaugh:
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Nice Bvas
:thumbsup:
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Nice shooting :thumbsup:
That thing has some mass to it. Do you know how much it weighs?
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Flem, its 58” with 18”riser. Total weight, string and all is 1.77#.
Doesn’t have quite the mass I was hopin for. I may have to build another. :goldtooth: If I do, I’ll probably go to 60” and use more Osage in place of some of the walnut.
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Yes G10 is heavy, but even if you have used a riser made entirely of G10, it just won't add up to "Heavy" in a longbow.
G10 - 110 lbs per cubic foot
phenolic - about 85 lbs per cubic foot (slight fluctuation depending on substrate)
Macassar or gabon ebony - about 72-75 lbs per cubic foot.
walnut - 38 lbs per cubic foot
osage - 54 lbs per cubic foot
Imagine a longbow riser block that is 1.5" x 1.75" x 18" = 2.7% of a cubic foot... or :
G10 - 2.97 lbs
osage - 1.49 lbs
but the above block is whole and an actual longbow riser block is about 60% waste or more depending on design.
That now makes the weight of the finished longbow riser:
G10 - 1.2 lbs
osage - .58 lbs
So, after all that math, there is only about .62 lbs or 10 oz difference between a solid G10 and a solid osage "completed" riser. That is less then a quiver and about 3 arrows.
Saying all that, it is still desirable added weight.
BigJim