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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: globalmark on April 06, 2019, 05:06:28 PM
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Hi
Just been given this Yew log by a Old Famous Bowyer that lives local to me in the UK - he's had for 20 years but doesnt make yew bows anymore due to the dust almost killed him.
so will try and make a yew bow or 2 and make some laminations out anything left ..
But due to the big Knots in one side i was wondering if anyone had a idea of best way to split it into halves or anything .
It already has some shakes and splits doesnt look like had ever been end sealed - so not sure will get any Billets out of it but like to try
I have split a few logs before but these big knots in one side look like if done wrong will ruin this..
So if anyone has some experience on splitting these funny shaped logs - is it best to try to split it through the middle of the knots or should i keep them in one half ..
or shall i just Bandsaw this in Half ?
Thanks Mark
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My guess is that you might get som laminations from the heartwood, but I am afraid that you have firewood. Yew as large as this should not be dried in the round, but split at least in half when cut. There will be too much tension and it developes cracks in the center that cannot be seen,and as can be seen deep cracks goes from the outside and into the log.
The color does not look good in this one.
I cut my first Yew around 1990 so I have cut many over the years.
One can always hope that I am wrong about this one, good luck.
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I'm with Bue on this. I have tried to split some knotty yew, it's an iffy proposition. I think I would saw it into lams.
There are some talented, experienced log splitters on this forum, maybe you will get some useful advice.
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Thanks for the reply
I kinda already knew that - unfortunately when someone gives like that have no choice
the few logs I have done I always split when green ..
Guess it’s to the saw and see if can get some laminations and handle material then - but I will keep hopeful Watch as I go ..
Thanks Mark
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I had a Go and Bandsaw the Log - was pretty Bad condition so many shakes and cracks but might get one Bow as nice tight rings ..
but also Made some laminations but they are bit bendy so maybe ok once straightened and middle layer in something ..
Mark
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Sweet looking staves ya got there. I dont use much Yew only ever built one Yew self bow so far. Not one for doing any steaming dont ask why, I use dry heat to straighten some bows and add some reflex thats about it. I had some yew boards a few years ago and after ripping them the lams went side ways and every which way, the wood was under tension in a big way. The boards were a full 8" wide and 3" thick.
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Hi
no they are not that sweet - to many cracks and Shakes - no doubt as left as a round log - also nothing straight ,
But having a go anyway - managed to Glue up 2 staves from the 4 billets
1 bow should be ok as nice matching pair but other stave not sure we will see .
used draw knife to get ends of billets to size
marked stave to string line of both will approx go through handle
stuck on with PVC card with splice marked
stuck on scrap wood so can cut splice square
cut on bandsaw then cleaned up with bandsaw and small rasp/file
few test fits then glued .
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test fit
Glued stave 2 (different one from test fit) - have glued tiny bit recurve at handle as one billet bends wrong way - so hopefully will help bit .
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Kudos to you! You are obviously not one to back down from a challenge :thumbsup:
I've got some twisty Yew that I managed to saw into 3/16" slats. Still haven't had any luck getting them flat. Now I'm hoping you will shed some light on the subject.
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I've found that some yew has a mind of it's own.
I had some 36" long yew billets about 2" wide and 1/2" thick that were twisted/warped.
I'd heat and straighten and clamp them down.
Take clamps off the next day and a half hour later they were warped again.
Gave up after 4 tries.
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Hey Guys
No i like a challenge when comes to building stuff - am a cabinet maker so the wood work comes easy made table once for fun with 250 piece wood in it ..
i also made a yew bow before from a twisted bent stave and its not to bad 88lbs -
This Log was given to be by Rex Oakes a UK bowyer and he kept for 20 years so feel like have to try and get something.
worst can happen is it breaks and get some time consuming firewood - or will make some chopsticks haha
I will not even try and straighten the staves - i glued up with tips line up through handle as best could so as long as tillering goes OK might get a bow .
FLEM - all my offcuts i cut 5-10mm then passed them through my Thicknesser down to 2-5mm (different ones) but none are flat or straight -but will use for something .
Will add photos as I go
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Did you run them thru a planner or sander? I tried running them thru my drum sander, but it does not have pressure feed rollers and would just chew up the high spots. Maybe I should try my planner....hum
Roy, I tried steaming the crap out of these and clamped them flat. They also sprung right back to their original twisted shape. I did hand plane/sand some and once they got down to about .150 they were quite compliant. But that was a LOT of work.
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The laminates - yes i had the rough bandsaw slices which varied in thickness and just passed them through the Thicknesser - I didnt use a surface Planer at all as they were not straight enough - just through the thicknesser and every few passes reversed side of the piece - they still came out like Bananas but a even thickness banana and they are useable now - probably could get them down to 2mm in thicknesser -
will need cutting and or straightening with steam but some pieces i could use under glass or bamboo straight away ..
or glue loads together and get a quad laminate yew bow maybe haha ?
The rollers inside holds the piece down under the cutters so don't need to be flat to go through really .
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You will have to excuse me as I don't speak proper English, but what exactly is a thicknesser?
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A thickness planer (also known in the UK and Australia as a thicknesser or in North America as a planer) is a woodworking machine to trim boards to a consistent thickness throughout their length and flat on both surfaces.
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Thanks for the clarification, I was confused when Mark said he did not use a surface planer.
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Hey Flem
In cabinet making in UK and Australia yes -
A surface PLANER just cuts one edge perfectly flat and square and usually you manually push the timber through the bed (table) which has the cutter in it .
Where a Thicknesser has rollers that pull the timber through and holds the timber down to the table bed itself usually with a cutter above the timber -
Is in the USA a thicknesser is called a Planer
What do you call a Surface Planer - as they are 2 very different machines do different jobs ??
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We call it a jointer. :biglaugh: Or people like me everything is a planer. English, the hardest language in the world.
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Planers:
https://www.grizzly.com/planers
Drum sanders:
https://www.grizzly.com/drum-sanders
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Don't know why I never thought of using a planer/thicknesser for getting lams close to dimension. Might have to put thin slats on a sled and sharpen the knifes!
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I remember now - Jointer is the Name i have also heard of - haha
Flem - yes i put all my Lam's on the thicknesser and depending on the timber i can get them to 1.5-2mm easy and if i put a strip wood underneath i can get them down to 1mm -
I even use the thicknesser to make tapered Lam's - I have a strip of wood thats Tapered (say a 2x1") with whatever taper i want approx length of taper piece with old coarse sandpaper glued all the way along - just sit it on top and pass it through - squeeze together the ends with my fingers to stop any slippage -
if i making a 6' + bow and have a Tapered LAM full length i put Half ie 3' on the Sled (2x1 with sandpaper on) and pass through just stop when cut near the middle - ( lots pencil scribbles or chalk helps see where been cut)
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No, ya need to start cutting lams off the board on your band saw first flemmy-son..
Put a known lam pattern size between the bandsaws guide and the board ya are cutting and out pops a roughed out lam that takes very little trips through the drum sander to get down to size..
https://youtu.be/Sh64PirorD0
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Roy that Looks like a wide belt sander - nice toy had one in one workshop i worked at for a bit -
yes Bandsaw the Laminations first - but starts from the tree - here are some Lam's I cut today from a Log left in the local Woods ..
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Back to my Yew staves and Bow Build
progress so far -
staves in Clamps
staves out of clamps
layout
initial shaping
more layout
pic heated stave tied up over night to bend slightly straighter as this stave was impossible get string through centre handle
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doing 2 bows same time so bit slower process -
one bow looks like will be good other just ok i think - but will have to see ..
more shaping
shaped to approx oversize dimensions - ready next step tiller tree .
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Mark, it's 12 inches wide.
$660.oo + shipping.
I love it.
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Had Bit more time today - got one bow on the Tiller maybe 80% done(the bow i think not as good as other one) and 2nd Bow i chased all the sapwood rings - Unfortunately I had to cut the sapwood thinner as was over 1" thick - which means I have to chase rings -
best Tool for this is Rasp - File - cabinet scraper flat - Gooseneck scraper to get left over pieces ..
1st check on tiller tree -
few check on tiller - lots scraping with scraper in-between
last check on tiller tree today - little bit more but almost there - this stave was so uneven and had recurve and bent wrong way had to get a perfect arch .
scraping upper rings (whiter part) carefully around knots
Can see the single ring (oranger part) white being scraped away which is upper ring
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side view showing Knots
this Limb mostly done
Using final scraper Gooseneck - so useful to get those slightly indented upper rings
Rings on this bow mainly finished - next back to the Tiller and tiller this one properly .
Thats all for today
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OK back to the Build - Hit a Snag - Bow B the one that had the odd shape NOT even shaped stave has been going good , But Stave A the one i said was better as a perfect sister billets started twisting the string off when tried to brace it - loose string was fine but shorter string caused problems -
Details of fixing the twist in stave A is on my post asking for help on twisting string off..
But thats fixed so continue with the build
where were we ??
cut temporary nock with small rasp file and started tillering - mainly with cabinet scraper but also file and rasp occasionally ..
Pics -
Bow B - pretty much tillered - might need small touch up
Bow A on tiller loose string
Bow A first few pulls
Bow A tiller more and more pulls - remembering exercise limb 10-20 times or more every time i return to the tree.
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Scraping more wood off
Back to tree for bow A - it was about after this Point i tried a shorter string and it just twisted it's self off and caused a Issue (look at other post to see how was fixed if interested )
Bow B - laying out for horn Nock (this is How Chris Boyton showed me and pretty effective) - Hold drill bit in line with bow shaft - pencil Line , cut to a wedge shape
Bow B - shaping with Rasp/file (sometimes start with small draw knife)
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Layout drill Bit again - on wedge
Square point after cut shape - now knock of corners with file
looks like this
test fit Nock - Rotate fast with hand and push - this makes shiny spots on timber , which file off with small fine file , wobble twist and check -
Nock fits correctly when NO wobble is fel
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How I clamp on my Nocks - bike Innertube wound round then over the top horizontal , wound round then over top vertical wound round and tied - friction on rubber tube is great - Glued with PVA glue , horn absorbs this just Fine (Chris Boyton tip)
Shaping Nock (other end then just showed) - i am not a great Carver - so just make sturdy strong probably bit thick Nocks ..use Files mainly and small rasp , sometimes break out the dremel with sanding drum if feeling lazy ...
Horn Nock finish (sanded to 150G)
Horn Nock Finished (sanded to 150G ) - to be fine sanded and polished
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Decided to add a extra piece on the Bow Back (sapwood) as was recommended to me if a splice ever breaks it does so on the Back - and i always like the Belt and braces technic so decided to put a small piece 6-7" long of sapwood ontop -
Bow sapwood glued on with Smooth-on , probably 4-5mm thick only , flattened and scribed with saw blade the faces before glued ..
Clamped on while glue drys , cling film and the Inner tube
Arrow rest - didn't have mother of Pearl so used some offcuts of horn . Filed a very slight taper on the sides (wedge shape) cabinet maker trick so when clamp the Horn get tigher in the Hole and makes tighter joints ..
Clamped in Vice (5min epoxy)
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Forgot Pictures before - But after Glue dried , rasp, file the horn smooth same profile as Bow or just a tiny bit proud of the wood
Pic of filed Arrow plate, rest
Sanded Handle add-on -side view
Sanded Bow with OLD 60grit paper , 80 grit then some 150G , then I put some cellulose Sanding sealer and sanded that off with worn 150G
Danish oil coat all over except the Nocks (they will be polished)
all bow 1 coat Danish Oil - due to climate here in the UK needs full 8hrs to dry between coats then i bring inside house to cool room at night to dry
I will use fine wire wool , dry wipe down after and do several coats of oil , more coats shinier it will become ..
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Back to Bow A while oil is drying
tiller was pretty much there - so next step Nocks (try not to repeat Pics as same process)
Drilled Horn with 16mm Spade Bit (ground to point)
got my 4 sided point then round it off , test fit wiggle , twist and wobble when happy Glue
NB -(see Hole ) had a Large knot just along from the handle went at 45% through to where arrow plate will be - had a dig and it fell Out , so made a pin to fit hole (not dowel as grain runs in same direction as bow wood inc sap wood and heart, probably overkill But i like that) glued that in with smooth-on then put my Handle add-on on top - rest of pin sticks out side and will get covered with arrow plate when do that .
Handle Add On - Flattened Bow Sapwood 6-7" long scrapped Sawblade alone for better glue grip
Clamped on handle with Inner tube
So Bow A is now in the heating cupboard letting smooth-on cure the handle - and the Nocks are also clamped and drying
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Todays Installment
Bow A Handle Add-on - out of clamps
Bow A Handle Shaping - can see the Peg i put in the KNOT hole - how grain runs same direction as Bow -
Bow A Handle Add-on shaped
Bow A Nock 1 before shaping
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BOW A Other Nock end before shaping
BOW A While shaping
BOW A Shaped and sanded to 400G - polished later
BOW A other end shaped
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Bow A Arrow Plate - Bone today as didn't have big enough offcuts of horn and run out of mother of pearl - but bone is harder then horn so should be fine .its bigger then Usual as i wanted to cover that Knot Plug i put in .
Bow A , Arrow plate clamped using vice - epoxy glue
Back to bow B while glue drys -
I like to use some left over CORK tiles (self adhesive backed) - just cut to rough size peel of backing and stick on , then can shape with rasp easily , can also layer it to make thicker which i do a lot if making a thin tri-laminate bow .
didn't photograph - try remember when do Bow A - but a simple leather grip (ends folded and glued together then mark the back and punch holes in leather and the stitch or glue and stitch on .
NB- will take off leather Handle again to oil Bow as easier and restitch later - might stain the leather also as bit light colour for me .
Thats Bow B mostly finished - need to Put name and weight (ordered new scale and wire wool, waiting for post) then will need rubbing down with fine wire wool and 4-5 more coats danish oil, rubbing down in-between .Then polish Nocks before final coat danish oil ... Made a string for Bow B today also - but Brace height is 6-7" and strange due to there being a lot Deflex in one LIMB and without tension i have maybe 3-4" brace already , but seems to shoot fine - considering this was my bad pieces of wood and wasn't sure i would even make a bow out of this -..
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Nice work! :thumbsup: Thats some challenging wood for sure.
That looks like a labor of love or maybe OCD :goldtooth:
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Hi Flem
thanks for compliments .
yes Has been pretty challenging - NOT OCD - but i do like making things - cabinet maker by trade and made a chair with over 100 laminated pieces a , table with 250 pieces so a bow that takes a few days to a week is not bad ..
i am not even bothered about archery shooting the fun is the making for me - haha
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Don't want to hijack your thread, but here are some 3/16" slats I cut out of some terribly twisted staves. [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
Did cut them on the Bandsaw first and managed not to violate the grain. But of course they still have all the twist. They will make lams once they get down to about .150". Getting them there is the problem. I will try your method, Mark and run them thru the thicknesser on a sled
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hey flem
Is that that Pacific coast YEW you get over the pond ? - wow compared to mine looks straight mine all look like Bananas even thickness Bananas though -
With the Thicknesser - not sure what type you have but i have a small one and have a home made extended table like a meter long piece of 38mm (1-1/2") thick worktop (MDF with melamine on top) - this just gives a really good base that doesn't flex - but a 2x4 or if a bigger old style thicknesser has a solid base should be ok - just some these cheaper portable machine's don't really have a long bed - so not enough support for thin timber .
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Bow B - is in process being Danished Oiled - so far 6 coats - takes a while 8hrs between coats but looking nice .
Bow A - i filed the bone arrow plate - but still was not happy how the string sat - the limbs had to much Lateral movement still causing twist - so spent lots time with Heat Gun heating few spots and leaving over night to cool - but finally this morning string sits there really Happily ..
so Not much to report so Far - will upload more pics when sanded and oiled ..
In the Mean time been making few Bamboo Arrows as cut some bamboo from bush on local Common .
and cut the laminations straight that had left over as off cuts these also terrible timber - but possible use under glass or Bamboo as Mid layer or just Laminate loads together and make a Laminated Yew Bow ?
Photo - i drew lamination shape (from 40mm x 36" template) then I bandsaw one edge, after hand planed (no.7) same edge before table saw to 40mm wide make perfect Parallel lamination .. if i will use them i will use my lamination sander to get perfect ..
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Hi Guys
No post for a few days as takes Time to Danish Oil the Bows - 8hrs between coats with a fine wire wool rub down between , but today both finished .
AND decided make a Pyramid or flat bow with laminations that's also almost finished ..
Bow A - still was not happy so heat and straightened more like 5 times (this is my clamping and holding while cools)
Bow A after cooled still some wiggle but much straighter
Bow B - Polishing the Nocks ( had like 4-5 coats Danish Oil, then masked and polished nocks after will put 1 -2 more coats on ) _ pillar drill with polish mop on)
Bow B - polished Nock
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Bow B Finished
Bow B Finished _ this was the Dodgy Wood - 2 limbs different shapes - one with reflex and one with deflex , has a funny Brace as looks like has set - plus hell of a twist - but at 41Lbs seems shoot ok - not a great Bow but certainly not bad ..
Bow A - after straightening again - was 52lbs - but really Fast and a lot of shock - so decided to reduce this - did 20 strokes with Cabinet scraper on each limb , mainly flat on the belly and reduced to 43lbs - goes to show how much LBS reduce with such a small amount of wood . - had to tiller again little also ..
Bow A - Polish Nocks - after again 4-5 coast Danish Oil .
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Bow A - after finished all Danish oil - use some CORK self adhesive tile cut strip stick on then shape with a rasp GENTLY
BOW A Braced
Both BOWS finished - Bow A did a wrap with 1.4mm suede (didn't skive the edge of leather just cut the end tapers and glued with Spray contact adhesive)
Both Bows Finished
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Both Bows Finished
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Both finished Bows
Thanks for all those who gave Help - enjoy
However Not finished as have all those Laminations making a bow so more to come
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Ok
What to do with all those twisted bad laminations - Make a bow what else hahah i was thinking they were to bad and thought maybe under some glass - but decided maybe get enough good wood if made a pyramid bow as can carefully cut out the bad bits and several layers might NOT break - lets hope ..
Made a Pine Template - mainly sport can see what parts of the dodgy Laminations can use - took ages spinning the lams and moving around
Many of the Lams were so twisted - i heated some to Straighten -make the grain as straight as possible
Cut out enough Laminations - i stacked them so one strip of all sapwood on top - and the edges of sapwood I reversed so didn't have sap wood on one side only (where possible anyway)
Made a solid bit Pine Base to Glue to approx same size as template (as didn't have enough spare wood to shave down after glue up - so needed it close as i could) - covered in Tape and will glue one limb to each side .
NB - Middle Lamination I put through Thicknesser again with Tapered Sled so Middle Lamination is Tapered slightly too the tips (same as my recurved bows)
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Laminations - scraped with saw blade give more glue area -
Limbs or laminations on my Glue stick covered in Clingfilm
Limbs wrapped in Innertube - all i had (also small pressure strips made from thin timber) - ready for heat cupboard - Smooth-on used
Limbs ready to clean and shape
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Limbs again - can see the splits and knots - but plenty of glue squeezed into all the defects - I hope
Limb Splice layout
Splice cut on Bandsaw
Splice cleaned up so perfect fit - and Handle overlays ready as will glue up all together (mainly all YEW , but used one bit oak and elm also)
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Lots clingfilm and inner tube
Dry and out of clamps and cut and sanded Handle sides
Shaping Handle
Couldn't be bothered with Tempory Nocks so glued on some IPE and slice of Horn just basic flat as bow might not work ?
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OK - tried this Bow on the The Tiller TREE but was only 17lbs but seemed OK , so decided to Glue another Lamination on top and one limb had tiny bit recurve and one had tiny bit reflex - probably due to the twisted Lams , so glue on a mother Lamination I made a simle Jig to make both recurve limbs approx the same .
See the Jig ( covered in Tape ) just a 2x1 and small blocks cut to the recurve shape on bandsaw and held on 2x1 with Tape)
Ready for Cooking
Out of cooking and cleaned and Shaped
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Nocks
Last Lamination - looks ok bit sapwood but layer underneath is on opposite side so hopefully stress out evenly ..
All Bows from that ONE log -
The Flat/pyramid bow mostly finished , maybe some light Tillering but i like to wait a few days before tiller make sure the Smooth-On is 100% cured first
i had it lightly on tiller with the 3 laminations and shot couple arrows But with the 4th going up the Handle i will leave it a day or so longer ..
there is a lot of defects in this Log generally and these Laminations were Cut as could not get a Longbow out of the pieces - shakes , cracks , splits Knots - all in this Flat Bow , but hopefully they are buried in the laminations and strong enough now ...
that's all for now until get to Tiller the Bow and finish it up - will post when Can ..
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Well I thought I had some crappy Yew, but you got me beat by a long shot! Great job on getting some Bow's from firewood. I feel the same way as you, it's special wood and should not be wasted. I followed your lead ran my slats through my planer. Worked great!
I was able to run them through the drum sander and get them tapered after planing.From garbage to golden. Thanks for the idea :thumbsup:
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Hi Flem
Glad that worked Out - lot of mine had grain running in several directions was really bad stuff - but the 3rd bow made from Laminations I think will be quite good bow , will have to see
as in my post many Laminations were not straight but surprise dry heat (heat gun) straighten a fair bit ..
yes Good Yew Hard to come By in the UK also and most is not straight and the tree surgeons just Log it straight away -
so definitely a Special wood - and this piece kept by who gave to me for 20 years I tried damn hard to make something ..
Are you making something from your Slats/Lams , or just going to hold onto them ??
Mark
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I have not made myself a bow for a long time, so these lams will be for me.
They are from small trees salvaged in wildfire burnt areas. High altitude Rocky Mountain Yew. They don't get very big here, harsh environment, short growing season. The big, clean trees are near the west coast of the U.S. Most of it would be considered garbage, but I have been making things from it when I can.
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Hey Flem
That sounds more similar to UK Yew not great stuff for bows -due to size and shape -except the mountain bushfire bit haha to wet in UK for those - mountain Yew sounds could be good though - cold grown timber always better
Most of the yew bows made here in medieval times were from the Alps or Pyrenees , but can use if do lots more effort - best luck with yours ..
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ok Bow 3 - laminated one , decided to put on the Tiller this Afternoon just to see where we were at -
and even though 4 laminations of Yew still only had a 25lbs draw weight seems to shoot fine BUT
due to using all the left over laminations and even as careful as i was -
the bow has a developed a crack in the Back and some shakes opened little on the belly -
Plan - i have glued there crack and the shakes - warm smooth-on while bow was drawn i pushed glue into the cracks for a few mins so hopefully some will get inside . let that dry - then Belly Maybe ok but the Back i am thinking about putting a 2nd Back on it (only 25Lbs) so happily can add some thin layer
unfortunately don't have enough yew Sapwood left so either might Buy something Hickory , Ash or maybe even some glass ?
Pics
Tiller - not great - was a large Knot in 4th lamination causing a bend , so did very gently tiller .
Tiller - getting better
Belly - Shakes coming through
Back Crack in sapwood (have 3 other layers so not as serious as think) but still needs fixing. is also only 2/3 width of 1 lamination ..
NB _ if anyone has other suggestions what can put on the Back - timber or other material to repair or stop this Crack getting worst would be appreciated
as been trying to decide best way -
Thats all for today -
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Yow! Thats a bit rough looking. Maybe somebody will have some positive advice for you. If that was mine, I think I would make make my wife some knitting needles with it.
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Hi Flem
Yes a bit annoying but was a
Quick bow to make really as had the laminations already -
This is what happens when Male a bow from leftover rubbish wood I suppose
But it’s not over yet -
I will fix and reinforce somehow
Mark
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OK - Repair , I came up with a decision - a Massive splice and then cover the back with a extra Laminations - it will make the Bow thicker but i will round the top and belly slightly making more like a normal yew bow Maybe ?? it was only 27lbs so might turn out a decent weight pull after
1st thing i did was run lots Glue into the crack but now cut that out - but put glue also in the Belly shakes that should be fine for them...
Glue Belly Pic
Crack on the Back after glue dry can see crack
side view of crack
Pic of Bow New Back laminations - unfortunately didn't have any pure sapwood but these are mostly sapwood and grain running different way (like quartersawn ) so should reinforce underlayer well (i manually bent just the lamination to 180˚ and didn't snap so plenty of bend on them)
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1st Job for repair
Plane off Handle riser i glued on before
Bandsaw off Nocks (about 1mm above lamination below and finish with block plane)
Cut template of Half one limb - then i layed that on some spare offcuts sapwood cut out and cleaned edges -picture here is that half lamination layed ontop of cracked limb and use sharp knife to cut clean edge following my spice repair piece (make sense ?? )
next pic use a Router and freehand cut away most of the wood with the crack in middle - about 1/2mm above the lam below
(i didn't replace whole lamination as i didn't have enough sapwood spare - just enough do this half repair
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very sharp Chisel - cut careful away last 1/2mm of the Lamination using flat and Pearing away wood - also use chisel as a scraper is very accurate and clean
Pic of cleaned ready to glue - 1/2 limb down to lower lamination (below lamination had NO damage or cracks)
glueing on the splice (1/2 lamination limb) - I use the spring clamps hold all in place (clingfilm - pressure strip) while i wrap in Innertube
Limb wrapped in Innertube - ready for heater
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1st Pic - this is splice Glued - and cleaned up carefully using Cabinet scraper so stayed flat
i didn't take pics - but same procedure as adding Lamination before -
i took my extra Laminations i will add to the BACK , which i had already spliced together earlier - and using saw blade scratch surface for better glue join
I also Made sure splice was opposite one below so all joins DO NOT line up just a little extra strength - also made the best cleanest Lamination ontop of my splice - again make sure has best chance ..
pic of spliced Lams (the one going ontop)
Pic - of glued bow with added Laminations over whole Back - Now in hot box ..
More too come when remove tomorrow ..
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Ok - Bow out of Hotbox - took off clingfilm used a rasp to clean up edges - then i have made a extra Handle plate like before and glued that on and also regaled those nocks i cut off - but due to bandsawing the nocks off i have added a slither of BONE (white ) to make up that difference ..
1st Pic - unwrapped the Innertube - ready to clean up
cleaned and ready for handle plate
slither bone glued with 5min epoxy (shape that before glueing on old nocks)
Smooth-on glued handle plate
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Handle plate - cling wrapped then inner tube - smooth-on
that's all did today - hopefully in next couple days will have time to clean all that up - and get it back on tiller tree see where we are .
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Handle out of Innertube - Dry
Cleaned up and shaped Handle plate - rasp , file and sandpaper
Belly of Bow - 1 limb all sanded up
Bow back on tiller Tree for last time
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Decided to try a New type of arrow rest , I have done cut outs , off the hand and leather flaps - so thought i would try one those type that sits under the grip just for some light arrow support - I used a off cut of YEW again try to keep it almost pure YEW bow from same log .
Arrow rest shaped and profiled so sits perfectly on handle - will be held in with spot hot glue and the leather wrap eventually
Arrow rest
I like to Use some sanding sealer - do this with most wood work projects - just raises and seals the grain means less top coats of whatever also - quick wipe on 10mins dry and sand smooth ..
Also last minute decided to add a Arrow Plate as Yew is pretty soft and does dent and mark easily - so used thing off cut of horn (used for arrow inserts)
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Glue in Arrow Plate - 5 min epoxy as normally use PVA but wanted fast work time
Filed and sanded smooth plate
Smooth - can see follows the shape of handle - i deliberately put this in so didn't ruin the shape
Both arrow plate and rest together - how will be under handle
1st coat of Danish Oil - will let dry for 20+hrs then sand most off and smooth with 400G or wire wool - label/name bow then continue with several more coats of oil ...
that's all today
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Looks nice Mark. I really like your arrow rest, thats a nice touch. Tiller looks good also. Congratulations, you made it work! That was a labor of love and respect!
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Hi Flem
Thanks mate - yes from a terrible Log - to finally 3 bows , this one added 2 more Lams then wanted and a big splice to fix the crack - but got there in the end well almost ..
my first arrow rest of this type so nice to always make something new - I will continue with few more pics when all sealed and finished ..
I look forward to see what you do with you LAMS also ???? haha
Mark
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OK - just about finished -8-9 coats danish oil with 8hrs dry between coats then a good rub down with 000 wire wool
then Used hot glue to fix on the Arrow rest (this glue only temporary holds while wrap is done)
then used 1.4mm suede leather strip 1" wide (didn't skive the edge of the leather as thin anyway )
used Hot glue to hold leather strip - tiny blob on the leather and bow each rotation just to hold and stop slippage - sometimes use contact adhesive but thats more permanent ..
photo shows handle wrap finished - just need to smooth out tucked in bit and tidy up neatly
leather wrap
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Finished Bow
nice shooter - has lots speed and penetration power for a 42lbs bow its one of my favourite
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Finished Bow
me holding full draw - silly position i am as trying to hold for photo
so thats 3 bows all useable out of 1 dodgy UK yew log
Thanks all guys for watching and COMMENTS please - if see something i can do better or you would do different i would LIKE to hear as I love learning how to improve myself and bow making
SO please critique and give info how you would do different or suggestions how to do things better ..or if you want any more specific info on any bows or how i do please ask happy to help ..
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Nice persistent work :clapper:
The laminated pieces on the handle are beautiful.
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Thanks Mate
Certainly more work then i thought when started - but i hate to waste anything especially timber ..
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You did fine, when I saw the log for the first time I did not think you could get much out of it. I am glad you proved me wrong. :)
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HI Buemaker -
Thanks for that - Myself also when i first split that log saw all the shakes/cracks and worm holes i though if i get one bow would be lucky ,So I really didn't expect 3 - i am not saying they are great BOWS though but all useable and Yew always looks nice ..
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Awesome Mark! Too bad your not a lefty, looks like the string leans toward that side. Yew sure is beautiful wood. If it was not so rare I would use it for everything.... and Bow's :goldtooth:
I have a bin full of little off cuts and scrap Yew, I can't bring myself to burn or toss.
You inspired me to go out and get a fresh log. Looking forward to making a ELB with it sometime in the future. Might have to send you a chunk when it's seasoned, I know it won't go to waste :bigsmyl:
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HI Flem
Thanks for that - still waiting for your Laminated YEW bow hahaha.
Lefty - NO my father is a Lefty and always seems wrong hahaha , I think the string is straight , just the photo the bow is leaning slightly in the pics , but you could be right i didn't study it exactly ...
Would be happy to receive any Yew - being a cabinet maker and keen woodworker any scraps get turned into Bowl, woden spoons (a 6-8" lam makes great spatula for the kitchen) , key rings whatever or if really small they turn into glue sticks -
Mark
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Wow Mark, when you first posted I thought it was a lost cause. Amazing set of bows you made out of that log! Serious tenacity and skill, well done.
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Thanks Mate
Appreciated comments
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Just little bit Interest
Found a YEW branch on local Common (field and woods in the local village people live around allowed to take cut timber)
and you can see the sort of nice shapes we get from English YEW - give it a year to dry and might be a light spliced handle BOW from it -
this is what i do to UK yew
Drawknife - take all Bark off
decide where cut or split (cut this as so small) - hand draw line top limb
cut in half
seal ends with End seal (a wax) or PVA glue thick coat and about 1" down sides ( done this several times before and seasons without further splits .
If no good for a BOW - make some Laminations or use for Handles or make some Xmas pressies (spoons , spatulas , bowls etc etc )(i am wood turner and cabinet maker) so no wood ever gets wasted .
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If I didn't know you were a magician with Yew, I would recommend you cut that piece into little bits!
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Hi Flem
Hahaha - have to wait a year or until its dry to see what can be done with it - but i cut a branch off a tree in Fathers house once left the country for 10 years and made a decent longbow 88lbs 12years later - and wasn't much different from this - but this one is a bit short 57" overall and last 22 or so" has a lot of knots - but should give enough for a 68-72" yew bow one day or can make a kids or light womans bow who knows hahah- Just add to my stock cut branches for now.
YEW is yew and i feel its precious wood so always pick up any cut branch's - also amazing for wood turning , can be turned super thin .
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I've made a lot of knitting needles and hair sticks for my wife from little bits of Yew. It's my favorite wood. I have been afraid to use it for food contact, but if you are still alive after doing so, it must be OK?
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Actually was thinking about that the other Day YEW being Toxic - but maybe need some more research - i know the dust is but when sanded and sealed - i dont know ? The guy who gave me that log cant work with YEW as the dust almost killed him he told me so stays away from it completely .
But many years ago i met a Famous wood turner that showed me the Goblets he turns which you can see Light through - and the QUEEN has a pair - but dont know if they every get drunk out of or just decoration -
maybe someone here know if YEW is toxic and HOW ..
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I have read that all parts, except the fleshy part of the berry (seed is most toxic!) are poisonous.
They use to harvest it here in mass for the bark, they were making anti cancer drugs from it. Fortunately they found a way to synthesize the drug.
This is an interesting, obscure book. Lots of good info on Yew if you can find a copy to read.
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Flem
Just been reading this also
https://www.kew.org/read-and-watch/analysis-of-yew-wood
Basically - wood seems a lot less toxic then berries , bark or needles - but best be cautious - so think best no yew touches food or drink ..