Just starting to shoot a new addition to the family. It is a 56" Shrew Classic hunter, built to be 60# @ 32" (yes, I draw 32"). Using some existing arrows from my stock (for a 56# @ 32 ChekMate crusader), I am trying full length Heritage 250's (32.75") with a 100 gr brass insert. Point weight added had been 85, and 125 (total then of 185 - 225). I'm all over the place, and getting some left/right wiggle as they are going down range. Impact at 15-18 yards is square to the target face. When I had bare shafted some 350's, with point weight of 250 to 300, I was getting high and left nock. i am also seeming to shoot about 1 foot higher than my aiming point.
Any thoughts of what to try next?
BobW
Forget how the nock lands and go with the relational bareshafting method OL has perfected. It works far better than the nock position method with more consistent results, imho.
My nocks are all over the place because I don't have a velvety release...but using OL's method they bareshaft perfectly...resulting in spectacular flight in finished arrows.
Thanks for the quick response JC. I will go back and re-read/try it. The killer for me is that I can do nothing regarding trimming. I need every bit of length I can get from the arrows. Everything rides on point weight selection. Was trying to see if I was in the usual weight range. One of the biggest problems is that my 56 to 60 # at 32 is right in a problem spot for spine.
And for what it is worth, I likely have an even worse release.
Thanks again,
BobW
Gotcha, I understand completely...though am a bit jealous of your 32" draw
Have you tried tuning just with weight on the end (the gold tip weight system is awesome for "micro tuning")?
How about tuning the bow to the arrow (sideplate build up or shaving)?
Man, I feel sorry for your fingers. My draw length is 29 and I wouldn't shoot a bow under 62. To me it's no wonder your having accuracy problems. Bet your tips are going back and forth at full draw.
Bowmania
lost me on that one.... please elaborate.
Hey Bob, I bet if if you lighten the tips on the 350s you'll in business.
This is what I just found with my Shrew. 30" 2117 with 225g on the tip. I'm pulling about 52lb @ 30". They fly perfect. I did have to go to 8" brace to get rid of nock high. This was done paper tuning.
You are 8lbs heavier and your arrows are 2.5" longer.
Eric
Eric:
Thanks for the direction. I got 4 350's, so I can try and fletch up 2 and bare shaft 2. I know they are 32" (not 32.75), but for this they will have to do. Looks like I need to order a dozen.... dang!
BobW
With the gold tip weights you could add weight to the back of the shaft wich would increase the spine. The front to decrease the spine on the lenght you want or close to it. You can call Black Widow and talk to them. They can help get you close and by a set of test shafts and weight.
My Shrew Samurai is 55 at my 29 inch draw. It loves Beman ICS Hunters in .400 with 250 grains up front. Awesome arrow flight. Good luck.
Samurai,65#@29"= Vapor Carbonwood 4000 with 100 gr brass insert and 175gr heads= perfect flight.
Danny
Hey Bob I am not a big carbon shooter but I do have 2 Classic Hunters and although my draw is short compared to yours (30inches) :D , I do have 1 dozen 70/85 (I believe) Carbon Hunters, they are actually a cheap carbon arrow but they are 11 grians per inch and they fly like darts. I can use 125 to 145 grain broad heads with no problem.
One thing I do notice with the Classic Hunter brace height and knock height are very critical, both of mine are 7 1/4 brace and the knock is about 1/2 above center.
AA:
With that nock, are you a split or three under shooter? this bow was intentionally set up for me for 3-under (its even tiller).
I know my brace is 7.5" - was having noise issues because at 60#@32 means some weak limbs at 28". Lots of slap - actually have to put Bow Hush on all of my bows. Never measured nock, it is just trial and error there until I get it right (and I'm not there yet).
Thanks,
BobW
Bob, glad to see you are working with your Shrew again. Shrews really like heavy arrows, heavier than you would think to even try. Just keep playing and you will get there. As for the shooting high there is just something different about the Classic Hunters. I can shoot my Samarui and shoot great. Then if I switch to the Classic Hunter I will always be shooting high. I cant explain it and last time I talked to Ron he couldnt either. But he did tell me that was something he has noticed as well. Just keep shooting and once you get dialed in she will treat you right!!
Tim
I shoot split finger now and if I am not mistaken but I will have to check with Gregg I believe my first bow was tillered for split finger and my second bow was tillered to 3 under but I can't swear to that. I do know I have shot them both ways and split finger shooting is quiter then 3 under, not much but I can notice it.
Also like Tim mentioned the Classic Hunters do like heavier and stiffer arrows then what you would think. My bow's are 55lbs at 29 inches and I shoot Chundo 80-85 shafts with 160 & 190 grain tips and that is a perfect set up for me and my bow.