I came across these plans, someone here had posted a link to the recurve plans also found on the "Vintage Projects" site.
"Build a Distance Flight Bow Plans" can be found here http://www.vintageprojects.com/archery/flight-bow.pdf
I looked at the plans and thought, these were made back in 1960, so this would be considered a "Short Bow" back then.
Looking at the plans they didn't seem to much different from a "SuperMAG 48."
So I started up Google Sketchup and started laying it out to see what it came up with.
I also did a "Supermag 48" to compare...
Sketchup is a nice tool, you can draw to scale and print to scale also for making patterns.
Well here is what I came up with after laying it out and then taking pics from the pdf putting them to scale and measureing everything again.
Pic...is small because of the size limit for the board.
(http://pages.google.com/edit/onemississipp/flightbowbyinstructions.jpg/flightbowbyinstructions-large.jpg)
and the "Supermag 48"
(http://pages.google.com/edit/onemississipp/supermag48.jpg/supermag48-large.jpg)
The full size (or a larger image) can be seen here *click the Pic for a larger image*
http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/flightbow
This page is just starting out and will be a build along..once everything is in place.
You can check out the rest of my page by hitting return from the above page or by going here
http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/home
Right now I'm waiting on a couple of shipments from "Bingham Projects, Inc"..
Airhose, glass, and smooth-on.
I ordered my lams..edge grain red elm from "KennyM" Great deal!!!
Riser wood from "Woodcraft" 2"x2"x24" Sapele
So far my total with shipping is $144.64
I got a 4'x8' 3/4" sheet of plywwod for free so that saved some bucks, but still need to come up with a heat box. I will be building the form this weekend.
Have a look and let me know what you guys think about the flight bow. It measures 49" tip to tip along the back.
I guess I could break it down a little better..
Lams with shipping $25.00
Black .040 glass 2 strips $29.00
Smooth-on 1 pint unit $16.50
shipping on that order $12.50
Riser wood Sapele 2"x2"x24" $11.99 + $6.99 shipping
Decided to go with airhose meathod
72" of hose with caps and clamps $36.16 + $6.50 shipping
Total $144.64
Could have saved $6.50 by ordering the hose at the same time as the glass but wasn't sure yet.
This is my first Lam bow and hopefully it goes well.
I'm almost thinking about extending it out another 3/4" on each side to get a 49" nock to nock bow.
I'm going to do the form with these instructions
http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=054410;p=1
Well, I revised the bow again, took the limbs out 1/2" looks smoother now. Riser is a tad longer also.
(http://pages.google.com/edit/onemississipp/flightbowrevised.jpg/flightbowrevised-large.jpg)
If anyone sees something that could use some adjusting please let me know.
After the revise, I printed and cut it out on Cardboard. Measured along what will be the back of the bow and got 50" tip to tip.
I think I'll go with this!
String nocks cut at 3/4" would give 48 1/2" nock to nock.
I've never built one with that short a riser ,this is interesting. Keep us up to date,please!!
That short riser otta help make it nice and smoooooth.
Well here we go again, revised once more. I put it to scale once more in Sketchup, figuring,
"The plans have been designed by Frank Bilson, one of England's foremost archers, and in his capacity as head of the Yeoman Bow Company, a liveryman of the Worshipful Company of Bowyers. These then are the plans and specifications of the Yeoman Flight Bow (Copyright 1960)"
Once put to scale again I noticed the measurements and the arc of the bow didn't really line up, have a look
(http://pages.google.com/edit/onemississipp/flightbowlayouttoscale.jpg/flightbowlayouttoscale-large.jpg)
So once again I did some adjusting, trying to stay true to the plans. Here is what I came up with now.
(http://pages.google.com/edit/onemississipp/turkeybowv_1.jpg/turkeybowv_1-large.jpg)
Today was my deadline for design, I hope to start the form tomorrow.
You can always can on my status here
http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/flightbow
I'm hoping to make this a build along from idea to finished product.
Well I may have cut my deadline short. This being my first lam bow and not really having a template for the riser. I decided to cut a test riser from some cedar I had. Decided to go with cedar for it's easy to work. Good thing I did, had to go and refine the riser some. I will cut this one out and see where I am with it. Here is a photo of the riser I cut out and the new riser template.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/riserv_1.JPG/riserv_1-large.JPG)
I also began cutting my template for the form, out of some beadboard I had left over. I need to smooth it up and make sure everything is right.
I got my template for my form done today. I printed it out from sketchup traced it on the beadboard, cut it close with a bandsaw at work ( I don't have one yet, think Oscillating Spindle Sander will come first). then finished it with 80 grit sand paper by hand.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/formtemplate1.JPG/formtemplate1-large.JPG)
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/formtemplate2.JPG/formtemplate2-large.JPG)
I also cut out part of the new riser today, it looks like it will work, hope to have it done tomorrow.
I finished the second riser, I believe it's going to work! I'll post pics later.
The new riser turned out to be 9 1/2" in length.
Here is the bow with the new riser.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/turkeybowv_2_newriser.jpg/turkeybowv_2_newriser-large.jpg)
I'm not sure how far I'm going to get with it the next 2 days. I'm leaving town for a couple weeks on Sunday. I finally received all my orders, just need to build the form, heatbox, and cut the riser out.
I have the new riser roughed out and I like the way it looks and feels.
Here are some pics of the new roughedout test riser, I colored it with a black marker to see how and where the black glass would lay.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF1910.JPG/DSCF1910-large.JPG)
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF1908.JPG/DSCF1908-large.JPG)
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF1911.JPG/DSCF1911-large.JPG)
I also started to cut out the form with a router, I should have read KennyM's post again. Things got real confusings fast, with the offset of the router base. They say things happen for a reason and before I got to far my router bit broke in half. That was my fault it had slipped down a liitle and the shaft was riding on the wood for a few seconds. Anyway I noticed it and fixed the problem and got about an 8" cut done when it broke. So I went and got a pattern bit, no offset to deal with. Here is the bit I bought "Porter-Cable 43325PC 1/2 inch Pattern Cutting Template Bit" I would have rather had the 1/4" but it's all they had.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/mediumPC43325PC.jpg/mediumPC43325PC-medium.jpg)
Here is a pic I took before things went wrong.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF1907.JPG/DSCF1907-large.JPG)
I'll try to pick back up on it tomorrow evening or Saturday.
This didn't go well again this evening, I hope the rest for this goes better than building the form.
But you have to learn some how.
The bit I bought and the thin beadbord (MDF) didn't get along to well, the high speed of the bearing burned (cut) into the beadbord.
So I'm now going to have to make another template, this time I using 3/8" plywood.
Well I wen't back to the template making, used the MDF again, it's just to easy to work. I laid it out with the offset of my router base to bit 2 5/8".
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF1912.JPG/DSCF1912-large.JPG)
If it were a R/D Long bow I could have just moved the template down the 2 5/8", but it being a Recurve the curves had to be down sized. Once the template was cut out again I got to work cutting it out with the router.
Here is a pic after the second one was cut out. I used the half template for the first one. Cut one limb flipped it over and cut the other. Then since I had bought the template bit I thought I would use it. No more flipping and hopefully less chance for mistakes.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF1914.JPG/DSCF1914-large.JPG)
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF1915.JPG/DSCF1915-large.JPG)
There are the two cut out, two bottoms and a top. For the top I just measured up 10" then cut it with a skill saw. It went well and they matched great. Then the third on was going great until about the last 3".
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF1916.JPG/DSCF1916-large.JPG)
Broke bit again!!! This being the third time I have ever used a router, the first two times was the failed attempts two days earlier on this form. I'm just glad it happened at the end. That brings the cost up another $25.00. I would suggest to anyone else to use a 1/2" shank bit when cutting 3/4" plywood.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF1917.JPG/DSCF1917-large.JPG)
I finished it off with a hand saw and will sand it smooth. Here they are all cut out.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF1918.JPG/DSCF1918-large.JPG)
I glued and clamped the bottom together, I glued it with Elmer's Probond wood glue it says it resists heat. Since it will be getting heated in the heat box I thought that might be a good thing. So I will return in two weeks and unclamp it and then do the top.
After reviewing the days events I'm thinking I'll have to reroute the tops again to get the 1 1/2" clearance when installed on the bottom. If so I'll need to take about another 1 1/4" off them. I'll check it out when I get back in a couple weeks. I hope I'm wrong.
Hey Dustin, I've never done one with that kind of bit. I glue the form up good and flat,then bandsaw 1/8" from the mark. That gives the chips a place to fly. I can only cut a half inch deep at a pass with the 1/4" strait bit I use. Stay with it,you'll get'r'done.
Well, I have returned from my trip. I unclamped the bottom of the form. and then glued and clamped the top part together.
I still need to do the final smoothing of the bottom form, and recut the top to get the clearance needed.
I need to come up with cork or rubber to cover the bottom form, and a pressure strip. And I still have to build a heat box.
Dang this Lam bow building is a lot of work, in the preparation phase.
I have 3 weeks to get this rolling before leaving again for 6 weeks.
My trips usually bring me a little extra money, so I bought a "Rigid oscillating spindle sander".
I wanted a oscillating spindle sander and a belt sander and this is both in one machine.
http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/EB4424-Sander/
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF1926.JPG/DSCF1926-large.JPG)
Back to the form I'm almost finished with it, after I smoothed it up on the spindle sander, needing more practice with the sander, I went back the the old ways of a sanding block. I borrowed some of my daughters sidewalk chalk to find the high and low spots in my form.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF1925.JPG/DSCF1925-large.JPG)
To get the curve where the risers is I just put the sand paper in the block around the curve instead of the flat side.
Here is the form with the top and bottom, note the top has not been cut to accommodate the belly side of the riser.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF1927.JPG/DSCF1927-large.JPG)
Now it has I traced my riser template onto the top, made a cut with a hand crosscut saw then took it to the spindle sander.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF1928.JPG/DSCF1928-large.JPG)
I now need to cut out the riser and do a dry run with everything installed to see if I'm going to have enough space between the forms. I have a little over a 1/2" right now, normally the correct space will be from 1" to 1 1/4", depending on the number of laminations used. This may just be me thinking to hard but since I'm glueing up a 2" wide bow with a 2" air hose I thought I might leave it shorter until I check it out.
This may work out great, on my next trip I'm going to have access to a huge woodshop. They have a 24" drum sander!! So I hope to be able to grind some lams...
Dang I need to start getting some wood together...I cut out 2 51" x 2" x 4" of osage Monday.
Interesting design. What do you plan to use this bow for?
I was hoping Turkey, but the season has closed...I have been really busy and not been in town much this year. I will see how it turns out and go from there.
Deer season is around the corner though.
I did sort of a dry run on the form with the hose, I think opening it up to an inch will be fine.
(http://pages.google.com/edit/onemississipp/DSCF1929.JPG/DSCF1929-large.JPG)
That is my test riser in there.
(http://pages.google.com/edit/onemississipp/DSCF1931.JPG/DSCF1931-large.JPG)
and the over hang. The form is 2 1/4" wide.
(http://pages.google.com/edit/onemississipp/DSCF1930.JPG/DSCF1930-large.JPG)
I'll open it up to and inch just to make sure everything stays inside the form.
I rough cut the riser out, I'm using "Sapele".
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sapele
Here is the rough cut riser with the test riser on top of it.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF1932.JPG/DSCF1932-large.JPG)
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF1933.JPG/DSCF1933-large.JPG)
Here is the rough cut riser with my template glued to it.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF1934.JPG/DSCF1934-large.JPG)
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF1935.JPG/DSCF1935-large.JPG)
Now I just need to sand to my template. I also picked up the electrical parts for a hot box tonight at the local Wal-Mart.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF1936.JPG/DSCF1936-large.JPG)
I'm going for a Aeronut style heat box.
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=059937;p=1
Here is the riser sanded and fitted to the form, or actually I fitted the form to the riser.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF1939.JPG/DSCF1939-large.JPG)
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF1940.JPG/DSCF1940-large.JPG)
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF1943.JPG/DSCF1943-large.JPG)
I also got the braces on the form.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF1942.JPG/DSCF1942-large.JPG)
The top of the brace is bolted on and the bottom has quick disconnect pins.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF1941.JPG/DSCF1941-large.JPG)
So the form is finished, the riser almost ready, just need to do a dry run with everything in the form to double check everything.
Need to finish up the Heat box and I'll be ready.
Here is the linnk to my heat box on my page.
http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/heatbox
Right now I'm just over $200.00 with this project. I didn't have to buy any materials for the form. The heat box hit about $60.00.
That's if you don't count the broke router bits and the sander purchase. With those in there it's bout $450.00!!
Nice work! Keep it up. Do you plan on using just two braces on the form? I've always seen two per limb.
Bill
I have only planned on using 2, this is my first.
If I need 2 more please someone tell me now!!
Any advice is always excepted.
QuoteAny advice is always excepted.
Now that right there is funny :D
BTW, I'd go with four brackets on the form, lots of pressure for just two. You've done an amazing job so far, would hate to see anything happen at this point.
Stan
Yeah add a couple more because that hose will push the upper form up. The way your brackets are angled they don't have much strength against an upward pressure. I've had 5/16" bolts bend on mine so I switched to 1/2" bolts now 2 on the bottom and 1 on top.
If it were me, I would add two more braces right at the end of each fade out. Like so....
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a79/bmnash/DSCF1942-large.jpg)
I will add the 2 (4) other braces.
Thanks guys for saving me a lot of swearing and throwing things around!
I'll check my bolt sizes also.
"Any advice is always excepted."
:biglaugh: I guess I was in a hurry!
That does not help much when you need some advice.
Your advice has been accepted and is always welcome.
I have excepted some advice before, not here though.
It will be awhile, I leave Sunday for a 6 week trip.
I'm back, got my heat box finished, double checked my form, and wouldn't you know it. I have a couple problems to fix. It may have been a good thing I left for awhile.
The problem I ran into is the limbs are not even so to speak.
I checked my zero line with a level and straight edge. It was neither, I had drawn it with my template and never checked it.
So once a good zero line was made, I now have a little more sanding to do.
Good job so far. Make sure when you get everything ready for glue up to do a dry run. Do everything as you would to put it in the oven with out the epoxy. Pump it up with air & move a light long the lams from the back side & look for light showing where you have to adjust the form. Check the fadeouts good. If no light showing you are good to go. Good luck.
Bob
I'll double and triple check it all, thanks for those tips Bob T.
I think I could have built 10 self bows in the time it has taken to just get a form and heatbox. And I still don't know if this thing is going to shoot.
great thread!! :coffee:
David
Well I got the glue-up done yesterday, not happy with the results. There were a number of things that need to be changed. The belly/back of the riser for one thing needs redesigned. I got some gaps in the glue up that I did not get in the dry runs.
Lesson # 1
I thought about this one in the beginning. I used the airhose method, the air hose is 2 1/2". I was glueing up a 2" recurve, to get equal pressure I could really only have a 1/2" gap between top and bottom form. I had about 1".
I had gaps on the belly of the riser in the dips.
Fix for lesson # 1
Come up with a clamping system.
Lesson # 2
Reduce tight curves, on the back of the riser I made a hump thinking it would help in getting lams and glass to accept the dips, in the back/belly of the riser.
I had gaps on the belly of the riser in the dips.
Fix for lesson # 2
redesign belly of riser..
Lesson # 3
Even though you are laminating there will still be spring back of the material once the glue up is done. I'm talking about the curves once the bow was cured I removed pressure and the limb tips sprang back about a 1/4" off the form.
Fix for lesson # 3
Account for some spring back in the form design.
Exaggerate the ending of the curves.
Lesson # 4
Dry and wet runs are different.
Fix for Lesson # 4
Go with your gut...
When I think of more I'll add them, I'll add pics later also.
I thought about cutting it in half and making a couple of kids recurves, but I need to go ahead and cut it to profile and see if my calculations on the lam thickness got me to the draw I wanted.
Also I learned the bow that is pictured in the PDF file is not the bow that is described in the text.
That's not true, the bow is pictured twice, the first pic of it being drawn..and then again where the finish is being applied.
Total cost for a good education so far is about $77.50..
This thread may be running for a couple years till I get it right....sorry guys!
After some thought and looking, I think the riser needs to be about 12", and not 8 1/2" as the text stated.
After looking at it again tonight, it didn't come out as bad as I thought. I'll get some pics up tomorrow and explain.
I started to make a template to know how long to cut my glass and tapers. I used some clamps I pick up awhile back and think I will get some more and use these instead of an airhose. More on that later.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2055.JPG/DSCF2055-large.JPG)
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2056.JPG/DSCF2056-large.JPG)
Then I needed to cut my glass and tapers to 50", my tapers where 36" plus a little to thick on the butt end. To get where I wanted to be .060, I cut 4" from the but ends.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2057.JPG/DSCF2057-large.JPG)
Those are the Red Elm lams and some packing and other boards I was using while cutting. You can almost see the 4" marks.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2058.JPG/DSCF2058-large.JPG)
Ever wonder how they will ship two 72" pieces of glass to you? I thought since I was paying extra for shipping it would come in a 72" flat box, I was wrong.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2059.JPG/DSCF2059-large.JPG)
The finished bow will only be 1 3/4" wide but I'm glad I ordered the 2" glass. Once I got it out of the packaging, one piece had a hughe splinter pulling up from the edge and running about 1/8" toward the center of the glass. It was in a place that was not able to be cut off, but will be gone once the thinning from 2" to 1 3/4" begins.
Next I started doing my dry runs and checking everything out.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2063.JPG/DSCF2063-large.JPG)
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2060.JPG/DSCF2060-large.JPG)
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2064.JPG/DSCF2064-large.JPG)
2" blue painters tape on the back of the glass.
Oven heating up.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2062.JPG/DSCF2062-large.JPG)
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2061.JPG/DSCF2061-large.JPG)
A note about doing a dry run, the dry run acts alot different than when the actual glue up begins. Once you have the glue on the lams and glass they enjoy sliding around, now throw some plastic wrap on that and you can't really see whats going on. Take your time I used Smooth-on and spent about a total of, guessing here, 20 to 25 mins getting everything glued and clamped in.
Time for the glue up, so I laid everything out.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2065.JPG/DSCF2065-large.JPG)
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2066.JPG/DSCF2066-large.JPG)
I didn't get any pictures of the actual glue up, I was busy trying to hold everything together and my helper was getting tape and holding plastic wrap. When the actual glue-up started I found out quick I needed more hands it was a good thing I had my 3 year old daughter at home with me that day! To get the riser pressed down in the form and held in place I used strapping tape. I pressed it in by hand and things where slipping and sliding. My helper said "Dad you need a piece of tape?" I said "Yeah, cut me a piece about a foot long." it was then I reliezed what I just said and needed more hands. I looked over and she was trying her best to get the end of the tape peeled back and she had the scissors at the ready. Once we got things worked out and the bow in the oven, we took a break and went swimming.
*The form does need 8 (4 per side) braces on it, I went with the 4 for now and added a rachet strap in the middle of the form before adding the air to the air hose. I went with 60psi in the hose. the other 4 braces should be places near the fades*
I cooked the bow for 6 hours at 150 degrees fahrenheit. Here is a pic of it after glue up.
*I'll get a picture up that will explain this a little better. The blue painters tape when pressed will become slightly darker than the unpressed tape. On the belly of the bow you can see where the air hose pressed. At the end of the curves where tthe gap is about 1/2" you can see that it pressed the full 2" width.
You can kinda see it in the below pic.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2067.JPG/DSCF2067-large.JPG)
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2068.JPG/DSCF2068-large.JPG)
Note the gap!!! left side belly of riser..
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2069.JPG/DSCF2069-large.JPG)
This is the opposite side of the riser where the gap is. No gap.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2070.JPG/DSCF2070-large.JPG)
I think the bow will be fine with the gap on the side, once the handle area is cut in. I'll get more pictures as I go.
Im feelin lucky for ya!!! Maybe the gap is shallow.
Great attitude Dustin! thats 99% of it as you already know from makin wood bows..if you are ever near Oxford, I would be glad to show you my humble bows and shop...maybe we could trade ideas. Joey Buchanan
That would be great Joe!
Well it turns out I was right about the gap only being there on the side. I took it to the sander and the gap only runs about 1/8" toward center. So now I need to figure out my limb profile and get this thing rolling.
TNstickn thanks for the added luck!
Dustin,
It looks very nice so far. The gap was purposely put there by a higher power to keep you on your toes.
The first bow is a great thrill and you will be hooked. I now spend more time thinking about building the next bow than anything else, even motorcycles.
Kevin
Next thing to do is check the limbs for straightness and verify my center line. I use the weighted string to check my limbs and the center line I drew on the glass before I glued it up. Drawing the center line on the glass after I put the painters tape on before glue up, was a smart move I think.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2071.JPG/DSCF2071-large.JPG)
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2074.JPG/DSCF2074-large.JPG)
Next is the limb layout, The limb taper 1 3/4" to 7/8".
Lesson # 5
Using packing paper as a template, or any other thin paper is not a good idea. When bending the template into the curve it allows it to twist. I found this out after I had used it.
Fix for Lesson # 5
Use something like poster board.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2078.JPG/DSCF2078-large.JPG)
Poster board in the picture.
Sand to the template.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2080.JPG/DSCF2080-large.JPG)
This is part of the twist from the thin paper template. Alot of time could have been saved my using the poster board.
I used left over glass and lams for tip overlays.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2084.JPG/DSCF2084-large.JPG)
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2090.JPG/DSCF2090-large.JPG)
After a little work and beginning tiller.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2091.JPG/DSCF2091-large.JPG)
Tillering involed more than I thought it would. I was under the impression glue it up, cut it to profile and it's done. I was wrong, tiller didn't take long about an hour. I took the string off my supermag and strung up the turkey bow. The limbs were a bit twisted, I made sure my string nocks were even, this brought the string closer to center. The string was still off center, so looking at the bow from the belly the string would be off center to one side. To correct this I sanded the opposite side. Going slow and after sanding alittle I would pull the bow a little and check it again. Here it is braced and pulled to about 27".
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2092.JPG/DSCF2092-large.JPG)
Picture makes it look a little strange, of course I'll get more up later.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2094.JPG/DSCF2094-large.JPG)
I still need to shape the handle, tips and apply a finish
I haven't checked weight yet, but it feels about what I wanted. Close to 45# I'll get a scale on it later.
Bow is 49" end to end, 47 1/2" nock to nock.
Almost finished with the handle and tip shaping, here are some pictures.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2097.JPG/DSCF2097-large.JPG)
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2098.JPG/DSCF2098-large.JPG)
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2099.JPG/DSCF2099-large.JPG)
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2100.JPG/DSCF2100-large.JPG)
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2101.JPG/DSCF2101-large.JPG)
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2102.JPG/DSCF2102-large.JPG)
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2103.JPG/DSCF2103-large.JPG)
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2104.JPG/DSCF2104-large.JPG)
And another full draw picture.
(http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/DSCF2113.JPG/DSCF2113-large.JPG)
Just need to smooth everything up, put the fine touches on the tips and handle, and apply a finish.
Dustin,
That looks GREAT my friend! Keep it up! I like your build alongs for the troubles-hints-what I'm going to do differently next time-solutions.
Mike
Dustin, looks like every thing is going to plan!! can't wait to see finshed pic's! great job ..from start of post to end..this is the sort of thing a lot of us need to see!! thanks alot ..I appreciate it and look forward to more... :notworthy:
Shawn..
You always have me looking when I see your name. Great looking bow and great pic's, Hope to start mine within six months or so. Thanks for the build along. How long is your bow?? I really like the look.
- Hard Head -
Sorr,did mot read your heading. Just saw your name. Answer my own question 47& 1/2.
GREAT STUFF - THANKS AGAIN
- Hard Head -
very nice ........... I wish I could figure out how to use sketchup to print a full scale pattern like you have done !!!!!!! ......... once again ...... very nice !!!!!!!!
Very Nice work. Looks Great
Rick Perry,
I'll make up a tutorial for you. I'll try to get it done tomorrow.
Nice Job on the bow
Rick Perry,
I added the tutorial to my page.
http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/flightbow
"How to print to scale in Sketch-up"
or get it direct here:
http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/sketch-upprinttoscale.pdf
great thread & nice looking bow.
Fine job Dustin. Those short recurves are some fast bows. Now that you have your form and everything else, you can make more. Be careful it's addicting.
I also added the Sketch-up file for the lay out of the form and handle, to my site.
http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/flightbow
I have tried to make this build-along as complete as possible, alot of the times when I see a build-along it has certain things left out. Such as lam thickness, limb tapers, ect..I have tried to give everything, I thought would benefit a person.
If I left something out, you need to know just PM or email me.
It's not over yet but getting closer.
I just looked at the first post when I started this, it was back in April..I'm a busy man, Since January I have been home for about 12 weeks, so I try to fit this in with everything else.
Finished sanding the handle area, getting all my dirt hand prints off the applied a coat of tru-oil, then shot it a bit to make sure the handle feels good. I just used the old endless loop string from my supermag, the nock point isn't right. We'll get to making a string and set-up later, I was only making sure the handle was a good fit and limbs are tracking. It shoots as expected, I also checked draw weight and hit excatly what I was after 45# at 28". I also stuck on a bear hair rest that had to be trimmed.
(http://pages.google.com/edit/onemississipp/DSCF2121.JPG/DSCF2121-large;brt:40.JPG)
(http://pages.google.com/edit/onemississipp/DSCF2124.JPG/DSCF2124-large.JPG)
Dustin,you should be proud,that is a fine lookin bow. Not many would have succeeded at buildin a shorty for their first!!(goin off memory here,hope its your 1st!)
Congrats!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Thanks Kenny,
It is my first and it had to be the lams!!!