Post by: skeaterbait on March 15, 2019, 12:32:58 PM
Just trying to learn here :wavey:
Post by: Roy from Pa on March 15, 2019, 12:36:27 PM
Post by: Bvas on March 15, 2019, 12:52:29 PM
Power lams do two things. Help protect riser fades and make limbs bend more further out(midlimb and tips).
Length and thickness can vary depending on what you want to achieve.
I make sure there is a constant taper in any part of the powerlam that extends past the riser fades.
Kissing is highly promoted on the first date. Unless your dating my daughter :saywhat:
Post by: BMorv on March 15, 2019, 12:53:16 PM
You want the PL to be longer than your riser, I would say at least an inch past the fades, so 2 inches longer as a minimum. It serves a few purposes. One it takes some stress away from your fades. You can get by with a shorter riser and steeper fades if you have a PL.
Second, it minimizes the working limb of your bow, which means less overall vibration in the limbs, and the bow should be more efficient. Granted, you want to make sure the bow is designed to handle the shorter working limb. Your mid limbs are now handling a larger portion of the load.
All else being the same, it will add weight to your bow.
On my tri lams I normally do .25" thick, 16" long, start fading 2" from each end. But I have done them as short as 10" depending on my riser, and lately I've incorporated a forward handle and PL in one.
I like to think of them as tip wedges for your inner limbs. You can control the bending shape and strength of that area by adding a PL. And add some color and shape.
Post by: skeaterbait on March 15, 2019, 01:10:32 PM
On my tri lams I normally do .25" thick, 16" long, start fading 2" from each end. But I have done them as short as 10" depending on my riser, and lately I've incorporated a forward handle and PL in one.
I am surprised to see .25", that is significant. Not doubting mind you, I just did not expect it.
As far as the forward handle/PL in one, would you be opposed to sharing a pic of that, I am intrigued.
Post by: BMorv on March 15, 2019, 01:24:47 PM
This one is 15" long, about .3" thick in the middle
This is the forward handle one. I guess you all would just call it my riser, but it's 16" long so it functions as a PL too. If I didn't care to strengthen the inner limbs, I would only make it 12" long.
Post by: skeaterbait on March 15, 2019, 01:57:07 PM
Post by: Roy from Pa on March 15, 2019, 03:36:19 PM
I'm getten just like them gwass bow guys.
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Post by: Buemaker on March 15, 2019, 04:23:59 PM
Glued on riser is 12 and bow is 65 ntn.
(https://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b506/timian46/9D0813D4-4761-4B28-81FC-A4953B034B66_zpsgejjpshd.jpeg) (https://s1289.photobucket.com/user/timian46/media/9D0813D4-4761-4B28-81FC-A4953B034B66_zpsgejjpshd.jpeg.html)
Post by: skeaterbait on March 15, 2019, 04:29:39 PM
Post by: Roy from Pa on March 15, 2019, 04:30:12 PM
I'd like to see that at brace and full draw sometime.
Post by: Shredd on March 15, 2019, 04:37:53 PM
Coming from some other bowyers that I have talked to and my personal experience... The thickness of the PL at the fade is around .020 to .025" and extend 4"-6" past the fades down to nothing... Maybe start at about 5" past your fades and go from there... You are gonna have to experiment to see what works best for your design... To much PL and your limbs are gonna stack... This is where a accurate DFC, measuring string tension and accurately measuring arrow speeds comes into play and can be very helpful on improving your performance... Think long and lean... On an overall limb thickness every .015" can gain you 5lb... So when you think PL, think that with .015" added to the base of your limbs you are theoretically putting a 45# limb base on a 40# limb... You want the base of your limbs at the fades to hardly flex at all and then gradually flex more and more when you go out on the limb... You might have to make 10 to 15 bows to get it just right and get optimal performance from your bow... .005" plus here and or minus there can make a difference... It is a War of Thousandth's of an inch... If you are gonna get into this make sure your your tapers are very accurate, that way when you change things around your changes will be more consistent and accurate... You can make a fast bow with un-accurate tapers but when you find that magic recipe you better stick to it and don't move a thing... Another words don't go sliding your tapers around...
I think it is ok to go parallel up to about an inch past the fades but no more... But that is my personal opinion... It could work differently on different or other bows...
If you have a short draw go a little longer on your PL (1/2 to 1 inch)... If you have a long draw you may want to go a little shorter... (1/2 to 1 inch)
If I were you I would start experimenting with Hyper Lams (super lams)... I believe that is the way to go... They are easier to work with and in my opinion they will be more consistent and accurate in the end results...
Always try to get to second or third on the first date... She'll appreciate it... ;)
Post by: skeaterbait on March 15, 2019, 05:04:15 PM
Post by: BMorv on March 15, 2019, 05:04:35 PM
Bue is that ipe? If so, I bet that was a good board. Very dark= very dense=very good bow= Roy itching.
Post by: Buemaker on March 15, 2019, 05:22:24 PM
Post by: Roy from Pa on March 15, 2019, 05:24:44 PM
Post by: Crooked Stic on March 15, 2019, 07:50:43 PM
Post by: buddyb on March 16, 2019, 10:19:01 AM
Post by: Forwardhandle on March 16, 2019, 10:23:41 AM
Post by: Forwardhandle on March 16, 2019, 10:27:08 AM
Post by: Flem on March 16, 2019, 10:37:37 AM
They keep calling my name, like a sweet Siren
Post by: Roy from Pa on March 16, 2019, 01:31:30 PM
Thought it was super lam?
:laughing:
Post by: wood carver 2 on March 16, 2019, 06:35:57 PM
Dave.
Post by: Forwardhandle on March 16, 2019, 06:52:26 PM
Post by: buddyb on March 16, 2019, 09:45:24 PM
Post by: Forwardhandle on March 17, 2019, 06:19:49 AM
Post by: skeaterbait on March 17, 2019, 06:33:06 AM
The thing I like about supper lambs they are tasty :biglaugh: but I think the SL is a versital component it can be shortened or lengthened to achieve what you want for me I like using them in paticurly in a 64" bow as it shortens the working limb giving good performance in a longer stable package I like the idea of it being adjustable , I guess the same could be done on the wedge end bringing the stresses closer to the riser, thanks for posting Lonnie gave me a couple idears :cheesy:
No thanks necessary, it's a my job..... :laughing:
Post by: Roy from Pa on March 17, 2019, 06:36:04 AM
Quote
Lonnie gave me a couple idears
I don't care what ya say, that thar is funny..
So Ritchie, when's ya getten ah hat like Lonnie?
:laughing:
Post by: Forwardhandle on March 17, 2019, 06:53:23 AM
Post by: Shredd on March 17, 2019, 10:26:21 AM
Thanks Rich. I may have to go with the superlam. Frankly I can't afford to build that many bows to chase down one aspect. Maybe after I win the lottery... :pray:
You don't have to get down and start building that many bows... But if you want to improve your design, it does not hurt to change one little thing each time you build a bow and see if it takes you in the direction that you want to go... And we are not talking just about one aspect such as speed...