Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Crooked Stic on March 06, 2019, 02:07:19 PM
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I got this blue FHHS TD well under way now. The worst that can happen is it wont come apart and ya still got a one piece. :scared: Anyhow here are a few pics. You can see the G10 in the pic after it is cut apart. .125 thick and the maple is stabilized.
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Thanks for posting this Mike. Looks good.
I have a couple questions if you don't mind. What's the length of your relieved area? Thickness of the relief? What do you use for tenon and socket pads (or whatever they are called) ?
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Oh and no alignment toothpicks?
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I'm watching Mike with great interest :thumbsup:
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Looking real good, Mike.
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Awe man, why do all the great shows never warn you when it's a mini series.
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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Looks great. What material did you use for the butt pads. I have doing that sandpaper squaring method for a while.
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Gonna have to use that sandpaper squaring idea :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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Looks great Mike :thumbsup:
Next step is the fiberglass wrap correct ?
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My bows are 1.375 starting out. I like the tenon to be .800 so .287 off each side. 3.5 is the releif length. That is brown glass on the pads. The tooth picks are not needed
. I eyeball the lam line up when putting it on the wrapping jig. I need to round the corners and put several coats of CA glue on the tenon then paste wax on the tenon then ready to wrap.
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Thanks Mike. Looking forward to the rest.
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Very cool, thanks for sharing. Learning something new!
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Cool build!...love to watch this process
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Mike, that's pretty slick!!
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Mucho interesting.
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The mess has been made. Now 24-28 hours on the slow curing epoxy at 80 degrees. So in the hot box with one bulb on.
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Very cool Mike Im taking notes I appreciate the pioner work :cheesy:
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Slow cure has a bunch more strength correct ?
I remember bits of Big Jim's videos but it's been a while.
Thanks again for posting this process
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Not for sure on the strength. but more working time.
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:thumbsup:
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Nice one !
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Thanks for the detail!
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Ok I got the grip going my way as far as shape goes. I did floor exercise it some. not seeing any separation yet. So a tight fit. I will go ahead and profile it tomorrow and get a string on it and see. Always got the dead blow handy. :bigsmyl:
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Looks good !
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I like it. Some day I wanna try that but the details you’ve given make it far less scary to attempt. Thanks for the write up Mike.
Cody
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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:thumbsup:
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Looks great Mike.
So you after you wrapped it in the last picture, you just sanded the riser and glass wrap to blend together? No additional steps?
All of these details are hard to visualize until you see it done. Thanks again for posting this.
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Yeah I put enough wrap on it to be safe then grind the excess off. You can see where I got into the carbon some There is two layers of glass before the carbon plus right there it kinda balled up and is thicker. I forgot to take pics putting it on the jig. Once apart you can see where you can take more glass off if need be. So I strung it this morning and pulled it a couple of times with no movement. Sooooo one whomp on all sides with MR. dead blow :scared: and it came right apart.
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Nice, it looks seamless. :thumbsup:
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I was shooting for 45 ibs. and it scaled 45.17. Figure it loose a couple of lbs. in finish sanding. I put the shelf 1 in. higher than normal to get room for the tenon. So 2 in. above center. Right now tillered even and super quite. seems to be pointing good also. I know I have another Hyper Stic reg handle with the shelf about the same and shoot it better than any bow I got.. :dunno:
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That looks great Mike and it's just my size. :wavey:
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Ya done real good, Mike..
:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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Looking great & hit your weight to :laugh:
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Nice work Mike.
I was wondering why the shelf looked so steep.
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:notworthy: :notworthy:
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You make it look easy! I fought with mine before it gave in and let go. :)
Dave.
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Hey Dav this is maybe # 8 for me. One broke when I put too much side pressure on it trying to get it apart. Most are harder than this one. The last two have come apart pretty good maybe I am getting the knack. :dunno:
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Nuff said. :bigsmyl:
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When doing a 2 piece, I leave the high side of the tenon 2"s and the low side 3/4".. or close. The 2" because that is the width of my knife grinder and it makes it easier. It can be many widths I suppose. The total width of the relived area on my bows range a bit from one model to another simply because it works in my favor to run the upper part of the socket to about the center of the throat.
The minimum is about 3"s of total relived area.
Not to draw light away from Crooked sticks build along, but just thought I might throw some helpful tips in there for anybody interested. It looks to me like he is doing a good job.
I also quit using the tooth picks several years ago.. not necessary.
After relieving the sides, I cut mine in two, install the end caps and then rough shape the top and bottom individually. I then use a block of micarta wider than the lower tenon and attach adhesive backed 120 grit to the block.
Carefully working my way all the way around, I sand the sides evenly so as to remove any dishing. I prefer my sides to be slightly tapered, but from front to back, my tenons are with in .001 of parallel. Not real difficult, just takes patience. The tapered sides will make disassembly much easier.
Keep up the good work CS.
BigJim
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Thanks for your input Jim. And for the videos where I learned to do this. :thumbsup:
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:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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This one done and shooting pretty good. Got a BW rubber sleeve on the grip.
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Looks Good Mike...
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That bow looks great I love the blue wood :thumbsup:
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Hello,
just one question , that might have been answered before but i can find the info. What do you use to prevent the limb that is not taking the carbon or fiberglass from being glued to it? Do you use demolding wax? maybe plastic foil...
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Looking goooood.
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Nice job! Looks like a good fit for you, got a Robin Hood with it :thumbsup:
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Sergio I coat the tenon with several coats of CA glue. then when it is cured 320 grit so it is smooth. Then about four coats of Johnsons paste wax. I even heated this one to about 90 degrees in the hotbox for curing.
Thanks guys. I am finding 1916s and 600s are bare shafting weak out of this bow. 40 @26. Go figure. :dunno:
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That bow looks sooo nice :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Thanks for sharing. “Mine” needs a bow every now and then too :)