From the base of your nock to the back of your fletch?
Thx.
If I am setting up an arrow to verify consistent draw length ( feather to nose) 2.75 inches. Most arrows are much less.
I like to go an inch, though I have used 3/4 inch in a pinch. (Pun intended)
Mine are all 1 1/8" (1.125). It's enough to keep them out of the way and is permanently marked on all of my feather clamps.
From the valley of my nock to the base of the fletch is 2", which gives me the correct position to touch my nose to feather at full draw.
From nock throat to shaft contact of shield cut fletch - 1.750"s
From nock throat to nose tip contact - 2.00"s
1 1/8 inches from throat of nock to base of feather.
1 1/4" base of nock to base of feather
From the back of the fleth to the back of the shaft mine is 3/8 of an inch. To the throat of my nock it is 3/4 of an inch.
About 1", usually just enough to get my fingers with shooting glove behind em .
1.5"
Measured from the deepest part of the nock groove to the back of the feather quill it is 1.25 inches on all of my arrows. That's what works best for me.
I assume by "base" you mean where a insert type nock and the shaft intersect. In that case it's .5" and 1" to the bottom of the nock groove. This was intentional when I used the back of a shield cut fletch to the tip of my nose as a draw check/second anchor. I no longer do that, mainly because I discovered with my 3U middle finger to incisor hard anchor I was inadvertently nodding forward a bit to make it happen. For the past year I've adopted a vertical bow/head up more natural form and focused on drawing alignment to points where things just naturally line up. I've been able to achieve a 25yd "point on" @ 6 o'clock to the spot that I'm satisfied with. I'd like to get the arrow even closer to my eye, but with my facial geometry the area around the cheekbone either isn't a repeatable anchor for me or I start abusing my nose trying to keep the shaft under my eye.
1 inch
i go about 1.5" maybe a shade more
I use 1 3/8" but I wrap a 1/8" rabbit fur tracer behind that.
?? I try not to obsess on the overhang of the arrow
but just the back squeeze prior to dropping the string. That being said I occaisonly peer over the arrow to check whether the paint mark which is two inches from the back of point. I am not sure as to the intent of the question however.. if I don't get the back squeeze / chest expansion my shot is lousy.
star.... Yeah I think you missed the gist of my question....has nothing to do with the point of the arrow or aiming.
no worries...thanks guys
My fletching jig is marked so the distance from the back of the fletch to the base of my Mercury nocks is always half an inch, which is an inch and a quarter from the string when nocked. By using the same distance consistently, I can quick-check my fistmele when I nock an arrow. On the Archery Traditions recurve I've been shooting the last couple of years, the front of my 5" shield just reaches the back of the shelf, when it's right.
15/16"
Tim B
1 inch is what I use.
Terry...what is the data collection to be used for?
Very good...thank you Terry for the feedback...
Terry, my bad I misread your post. My apologies to you.
I was thinking back if point to fistmele . :knothead:
:archer2:
From the base of my nock to the back of the feather quill is 7/8" .
1 inch
1 1/4"
Never measured but I follow the Bitzenburger directions:
"Allow 1/8" between the base of fletch and the base of the clamp."
Never had any interference with fingers.
3/16
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1.25". I do not currently use my feathers as a draw reference.
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Valley of nock to fletch = 1 1/4"
Depends on how much wine I've had at dinner. . .
1.25" Throat to fletch, or 3/8" from bottom of nock to fletch