Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Deepgrass on February 09, 2019, 03:36:18 PM
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Trying to paper tune a bow today. It doesn’t seem to matter what spine arrow I use or how short , it shows weak with 2-3” tears. I swear if I could whittle a nock on a pc of rebar it would show weak out of this bow! What could be going on ?
Three under,46 at 28, bear weather rest.
Help!?
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What is the condition of the bow?
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I'm not real sure,but when I'm shooting poorly and my release is bad I can't get anything to fly right. I'd make sure it wasn't my release.
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What's your draw length and what's the length, weight and spine of the arrow you're trying to shoot out of it and the distance from the paper? Paper really isn't a good way to tune for finger shooting. Bare shaft planing is much better.
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Are you trying to barshaft tune through paper? You will not get a clean tear through paper bareshaft shooting with your fingers. With fletch you should be able to get it real close. Also if you can post picture of your tear maybe you are misreading it. A strong weak tear is unusual with trad bows.
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I also bare shafted the arrows. I used Easton axis 500, epic 500,gold tip 400,Easton 400 alum xx75. Point weight from 200 down to 85 grs
Started full length cut down until almost unusable. All showing weak.
I draw 28
Elevated rest
Bow 46@28 like new, big hooks but not static.
Shoot 3 under
Fletching is on when I paper tune, 3” nock left tears 6-7 feet
Bare shafting at 16 yards
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Have you considered a false weak? Try a 1916 aluminum and see what happens
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An incompatible nock set can cause significant issues such as bouncing off the shelf and yielding errant spine readings.
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You definitely have the range covered. The 500s should work with not too much weight up front or the 400s with a little more.
May be a form/release problem. Even with a good finger release, you're going to get some arrow wag close to the bow and the resultant horizontal tear. That's why I and others suggest that paper tuning really doesn't work very well for stick bow shooters. Back up to 15 yards and use your bare shaft grouping to tune. Check out the A&H website for a full description of how to do it.
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While I agree that is takes a very consistent release to get good results while paper tuning, I totally disagree that paper tuning is not a good way to tune a trad bow!!! I only paper tune and I can watch my arrow go from too weak to too stiff just by changing point weight!!!! It is a very effective tuning method for trad bows if the shooters form is consistent.
If you are making adjustments that should change the result, but no change is occurring, it is more than likely a form problem on your part!!!!
Bisch
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Thanks for all the replies guys. I’ll work on it some this week. My problem with it being my form release (although possible) I can put down problem child and shoot bullet holes with my other same weight bows! False positive from nock set hmmm . I’ll keep trying. Don’t have any 1916s but did run a 2413 through it to no avail. Think that one was a left over from compound days .
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I had one bow that was really throwing me off for spine. I kept getting a weak reading on bare shaft so i kept trying stiffer to no avail. During testing i thought i grabbed a set of stiffer shafts but actually grabbed some much weaker shafts that were on the edge of being weak for my other bow that was 5# less draw. They flew amazing
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Problem solved! Nock too low. Thanks for all the possibilities. Can’t believe I missed such a simple thing. Guess with no nock high or low only horizontal I miss led myself. Feel kinda like boob. :banghead:
On to bare shafting. I like to do both paper and bare.
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Glad to hear that you have resolved your issue.
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Interesting. I paper tuned for a number of years, and I bare shaft tune now all the time but never have I tried to paper tune a bare shaft. :archer2:
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I’m not bareshafting and paper at the same time. I paper tune first then bare shaft!