Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: KyRidgeRunner on January 29, 2019, 10:10:18 PM
-
Question for the guys who shoot footed carbon shafts. This is my first time playing with them (I get crazy Ideas and tinker when season goes out). Anyhow my question is; when I foot the shaft does the arrow have to be long enough for the footing to be in front of the shelf or can the aluminum footing come back onto the shelf? If it matters I’m using a 2117 to foot a standard goldtip Hunter shaft.
-
To be honest I never thought about that. Maybe cause I have a piece of toothpick under my shelf material (Velcro). That probably raises the shaft enough the foot doesn’t catch on anything. I also chamfer the back end of the foot.
-
It really does not matter if the footing comes back onto the shelf. I have all my arrows footed. Been doing it for years. Makes that carbon “bomb proof”.
There is so many ways to do it. Tinker and see what you like.
Heck, I have even took the Carbon express Bulldog nock collars and used them. They actually work pretty good as footings. I would not recommend them solely, but they work pretty good on your everyday arrows.
I personally like my footing 1.5”-2” long.
I also agree, if you make them yourself, taper the ends of your footings. Makes a cleaner pull on the target and if the footing does come in contact with the shelf material, it saves on it.
We sell many sizes on our site if your interested.
Basically, I cant recomend them enough! They really strengthen the carbon.
-
Some examples
-
I've only shot wood shafts for the last 15 or more years so I'm not familiar with footing a carbon shaft. Thanks for the picture it helps, but how is the footing held in place? Is the aluminum shaft picked there there is little to no gap between the two?
-
IMHO a footing over an inch is overkill and may start to alter the spine of the arrow, slightly.
-
The footing is basically glued on.
Everyone has their favorite adhesives.
Clean the shaft and footing really well with alcohol or acetone. Then glue her up!
Yes, it is aluminum.
Tighter fit, the better!
The one smaller gray one is Top hat stainless steel. It has a lip on it. I like to glue that onto the end of the shafts first, then glue insert in. Makes a great square end and they are durable. I have been experimenting with these TopHAt ones. I like them.
I am thinking about carrying them on my site along with my Arra Foots!
Anyway, I am glad to help out in any way. PM,Email or call anytime!
-
IMHO a footing over an inch is overkill and may start to alter the spine of the arrow, slightly.
Yes it will!
You should always do your tuning and testing with the footing installed!
The little footings I mentioned and showed do not effect spine at all.
1” and over....yes!
-
IMHO a footing over an inch is overkill and may start to alter the spine of the arrow, slightly.
it only starts to alter spine once is extends back beyond where the insert finishes, which can be seen as another tuning option. this might allow the use a lighter spine arrow and longer footing for higher FOC. as for overkill, once the rear of the footing is behind the insert, the closer the back of the footing is to the arrows balance point (center of gravity) the less chance of the arrow breaking behind the footing because the center of gravity has a much shorter lever on which to impart lateral forces on the shaft on angular hits.
-
Good info here guys. Thanks for the help!
-
I foot my arrows with a "cap" footing, which is the aluminum arrow with insert in it, which slips completely over the end of the carbon shaft. I think this makes it even stronger, since it completely contains the end of of the carbon while transferring the force of an impact into the rear of the aluminum insert, rather than into the shaft wrapped around the insert.
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Da_ib3dsSTw/XFhvkf4nElI/AAAAAAAAIyA/Ms6V0fgqiL8F9444rCjtMDmYdDNyFy_lQCLcBGAs/s600/IMG_0320.jpg)
I also adjust the length of the footing to tune the arrow, rather than the length of the arrow shaft itself. I draw 32" so I need the arrow to stay full length. And a longer footing allows me to use a lighter spine arrow, which weighs less, which gets me more FOC.
-
For those who make their own footings, what do you use to cut aluminum shafts? I keep imagining the shaft collapsing.
-
I'm sure most use an arrow saw, but I use a grinder with cutting wheel. Then I clean/square things up with case trimming and chamfer tools from my reloading stuff.
-
i use a little tube cutter like the plumbers use on copper pipe. it cuts it square then i debur with tools from my reloading kit like pete says.
-
i use a little tube cutter like the plumbers use on copper pipe. it cuts it square then i debur with tools from my reloading kit like pete says.
This ^^^
I also sand/bevel the edges. Just like the ones we sell
-
The tophat system ( steel collar and steel insert) is really wonderfull and they have so many different diameter listed than everyone can find the best one for his shaft.
I use it on black eagle outlaw 350 with 92 gr steel insert. Fitting is perfect with tight tolerance and arrow end is really strong with that combo
-
:tongue:
The tophat system ( steel collar and steel insert) is really wonderfull and they have so many different diameter listed than everyone can find the best one for his shaft.
I use it on black eagle outlaw 350 with 92 gr steel insert. Fitting is perfect with tight tolerance and arrow end is really strong with that combo
Looks very similar to what I have been doing. I love the TOP HAT products.
-
If you foot the same length as your insert you will find the shaft breaks there when hit hard . a little longer and it seems to greatly improve arrow strength, I foot 3555(500) and 1535(600) gt trads with 1-2 inches of 2117 and (700) 2013 . I use 1 -1 1/2 inch inserts and adjust the footing to be longer than the insert. Then I tune. [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
-
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ] I also foot the nock ends 1/4 3/8 same as the front
-
Thanks to everyone who replied and posted pics. I got my new bow today so I’ll be tuning up some arrows this week.
-
The cap footing is something I’m going to try! The footing in general is a great idea on all carbons, I run my lengths so that when the footing hits my rest, it’s in line with my clicker. That way once everything is tuned, the footing is my clicker if that makes any sense.
-
Maybe this can help
-
I like my footings about an 1.5-2” long. I make footings when I am at a loss for something to do. That way I can take my time to chuck up a piece of shaft in my drill motor and file the rear edge down. Then I cut to size. I was using “gold shaft epoxy” to glue to shaft. Lately it’s been JB Weld. “Bomb proof”?, usually but not all the time. But that can be the brand and/or makeup of the shaft.
Only complaint I have is pulling them from those plastic fabric target faces but then agian any kind of lip including from an insert makes pulling from those targets a PIA.
-
Pistol Pete,
How is your arrow made? I don't see how the front of it is any stronger than an aluminum arrow?