Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Forwardhandle on January 19, 2019, 02:18:00 PM
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You guys that use plexiglas limb templets what kind of blade are you using on your bandsaw & is there any issue with cutting the parallel portion on the table saw with thin kerf blade ?
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I and a sheet of plexi are following!
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lexan might be better than plexiglass for templates.
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It will cut fine but there will be some slag left over. The last I cut with the bandsaw kinda took the keen edge of it seemed.
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Honestly, I don't know what kind of plastic it is. I ordered it to make a cover for a flourescent light fixture and it turned out to have too little light transmissance. By the time I shipped it back and paid for restocking my return was so minimal it only makes sense to repurpose it.
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lexan might be better than plexiglass for templates.
Thanks Robert, I checked lexan out , here is what it says...
Lexan is a polycarbonate resin thermoplastic. In a nutshell, what that means is that it’s a solid substance that can deform in extreme heat (typically 147 degrees Celsius, or 297 degrees Fahrenheit) and whose molecules are comprised of repeating subunits. Lexan is but one of a family of thermoplastics whose main claim to fame is in its ability to undergo significant deformation without cracking of breaking.
It is on the big auction site as lexan sheets and not too pricey...
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I have not done this but I would think if a guy made a lot of bows the same model it might pay to bite the bullet and have one made at a machine shop out of 1/16 sheet metal. Get it dead accurate from the get go.
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Thanks guys just ordered a sheet of lexan ,the metal or SS one would be nice to but for this bow Im working on I want to be able to see the center line all the way threw , I think if I was to have one made from a machine shop, Mike I would have them make a full length one !
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What thickness didja get Ritchie?
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I got the thin .030 figuring easy bending ??
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Its pretty thin but Im making it over size & figure I can do the parallel width on the table saw and maybe grind the tips on the spindle sander to the lines this bow is parallel limb design Im most interested in keeping the centers dead on !
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If you put the taper on just one side and flip like Kenny mentioned then both will be the same plus when you lay it on your blank you can square it up on the edge.
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Stic, that would simplify making the template and contribute to the symmetry of the limbs.
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I think I'm going to make it like that for the FHLB & D/R bows but this horn/composite bow I'm going full width because the multi Profile , but Kenny's system seems like it's perfect for strait line tapers !
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I got my .030 lexan this stuff comes rolled up ,but it's surprisingly rigid for being thin I think I'm going to double back tape it to some milled up lumber and cut out the profile !
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