Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: kennym on January 18, 2019, 07:40:20 PM
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Brainstorming ... well storming at least ( there’s some ammo Roy)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190118/6e8067ae573b2edfad811b1a7dc729f2.jpg)
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Looking good..
What type of wood is that?
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Mongolian pulpwood , pretty huh?
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Yupper and extremely rare..
Ya order that from across the pond?
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Walmart has it but no pink ...
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Ah crap, now what?
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When I found out I almost dyed. :laughing:
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I’m not sure going to Walmart and getting white paper qualifies as brainstorming. :biglaugh:
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190119/a2bb856811323de0d615c3efbe22d015.jpg)
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I’ve been looking for some nice wood for my swap bow and I think I found the perfect piece for a riser. There’s an old skid in the mud at work. It has some sticky goo on it and it’s moldy but it’s just right. 😜
Dave.
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Sticky goo= less glue
moldy= natural camo
Sounds good man!! :biglaugh:
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I can’t wait to get started. I really missed being part of the swap the last two years. I’ll have to wait a bit though, it’s going to get real cold the next few days.
Dave.
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I don't have a victim or specs yet . . . :)
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How long will this curve be?
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Watching :thumbsup:
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Send a pretty pink 25 pounder to Princeton IN:)
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Hey 25 would be good for this oldster
. Kenny sendin the pink to Roy :bigsmyl:
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He better not cause I gots his address:)
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Crap, guess I gotta make two if you all are gonna fight over it... Kids!! :laughing:
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I found some punky pine and some old pink paint in case I get Roy as my victim. 😊
Dave.
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:bigsmyl:
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Here’s the veneers...
Mike I’m thinkin 60” but can vary a little either way... (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190119/89b887146a5f3cf885c9d17976b0a4ae.jpg)
I did a charcoal riser with a 5/16 yellow accent sammiched tween 2-.060 maple.
Debating making one with brown awood to go better with limbs. Whatcha all think would look better??
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I mean a 5/16 brown strip in the charcoal riser....
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Those are wild...
I like em.
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I’d go with the brown I think the yellow won’t fit but what do I know :dunno: I do know those lams are pretty sweet!!
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I'll lay them together when I get the riser block cleaned up tomorrow and make a final plan then...
BTW, this probably isn't my trade bow... :biglaugh:
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BTW, this probably isn't my trade bow...
That clinches it for me. I'm not in! :)
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Count me out too:)
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This is me Yellow and yellow on the tips and riser overlay. Yellow and brown work together me thinks.
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Alright, it can be the trade bow... :laughing:
The hooks are pretty rad for me and I didn't put StabilKore in this one. But the tip wedge on superlam goes pretty well thru the hook so I'm hopin it will work. If not, back to the drawing board... errr bench! :biglaugh:
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Here is the form, I’m not sure what to expect when I string it... (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190120/775c5296546393fea7722ac8f8dc03b4.jpg)
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Here is the form, I’m not sure what to expect when I string it...
I'd love to be a little mouse in the shop when ya do that:)
Ya could call the bow, Longhorn...
:laughing: :bigsmyl:
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How about buff , sounds meaner... :laughing:
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I like Rad &!those hooks are Rad :thumbsup:
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Think I’ll go ahead with yellow , here is block and lams
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190120/c54227ceb2974ac653f7663305b2a6f6.jpg)
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That is so nice...
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Alright, it can be the trade bow... :laughing: [quote/]
Ok, I might be back in. :)
The hooks are pretty rad for me and I didn't put StabilKore in this one.
Hmmmm, no stabilkore, I might be back out again!
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That yellow will work. What is it. How long of a riser? looks like zip tie form?
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It's yellar awood….
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I like yellow and black... just in case I come back in. :)
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It’s in the easy bake , may be a 100 lb bow ... :biglaugh:
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What is the length and stack Risr length ? Looks lie a zip tie form.
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60" and .280 " Thinking 45-50# @28"
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Wow that sounds thick. Mine was 45 with a 16 in. riser .248. .001 super lam.
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Ok the yellow is much sweeter than I envisioned :thumbsup: she’s gonna be beautiful... maybe a heartbreaker :biglaugh:
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That yellow will work. What is it. How long of a riser? looks like zip tie form?
It is zip ties and washers. Kinda like a belt and suspenders...
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Belt and suspenders is for guys with Buddha bellies :laughing:
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I feel like Rip van winkle been plowing for 3 days came home this thread was small, went to bed woke up had to read to keep up , really like the yellow wood Kenny nice combo , Don't worry Mike he will loose the training wheels on the next , Kenny how much reflex is on that design at 60" ?
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The zips weren't holding the stuff really even on edge of form and I figure on a RC the straighter the better! :biglaugh:
Ritchie, everybody seems to figure measured reflex differently but the short answer is 2" ahead of riser back.
According to Mike's bow, I may have 60# @ 28" here.... with BP glass that might equate to 56# so we will see in a bit... :o
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Just curious if it works out I will be up to testing one or 2 or 3 for 2019 in spring 👍🏻
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This new color of actionwood is even better than I thought with glass on it!!!(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190121/53b143780592c39301583b00841a21e5.jpg)
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Sweet...
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Pretty :thumbsup:
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My limbs are 1 5/8-9/16s and tapered back only 10 in. So if you taper all the way from the fades you may loose some weight if need be. Just more trouble to tiller. And the stable core is a plus. Those veneers are nice
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No worries with it, think it was too rad and tips too stiff , blew up when I drew it .... :o
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190121/67be8d2391582b384010d521efcbcb2e.jpg)
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I’ve ripped the glass off there so I can regrind riser and use it on next one . May have to re do on form and lessen hook a bit
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Ouch.
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Sorry that happened Kenny... it was looking like a beauty. Man to think of the stress at that point to break like that....
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With the big hooks and the superlam it put a lot of stress in midlimb cause the hooks weren't giving much. Unsure right now whether to make one with just a 001 taper instead of superlam or rebuild the form.... :)
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With the big hooks and the superlam it put a lot of stress in midlimb cause the hooks weren't giving much. Unsure right now whether to make one with just a 001 taper instead of superlam or rebuild the form.... :)
The string came off when it blew or caused it to ,not sure which...
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Sounds like the trade bows are off with a BANG :laughing:
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Yep, and I got Roys name!! :laughing:
Just kiddin, I don't have a name yet I guess?...
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Oops :scared:
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That's a huge dissapointment. I feel your pain and am glad it's not physical pain!
Could you use more thickness taper and get some of the pressure off the fade areas? How long were the tip wedges?
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Yep, no harm except to the bow. The tip wedges would figure to 5" but I'm afraid if I go with more taper and still have the superlam in with wedges it will just make it weaker in the area just before tip wedge starts.
So still studying the form shape...
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I got to say Ken the form design did'nt look extreme, without over thinking witch you have already done,like said it might have been the string got twisted off the nocks when it blew. :dunno: Hope you get it figured out looked like a nice design
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Thinkin stabilcore and no wedges so the midlimb isn’t worked so extremely . Still pondering ...
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Ouch, sorry bud.
Glad ya didn't get hert...
Is the little mouse ok?
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Ain’t seen him since . May have taken some shrapnel from :biglaugh:
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Didn't happen wifout pichers:)
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Scary stuff. Very strange and seldom that a glass bow blows like that.
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Yep Bue , it was a shocker! I have the riser saved (very carefully and worked well) and new lams and glass laid out… Glue another one tomorrow.
Went without the superlam, just a .001 taper. and cut the stack to .265 Looking at Mike's version of it, I'd like the tips to open up a little more...
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I could be wrong. But I really dont think those hooks are your problem. This is about the same thing with the superlam. and has maybe 200 arrows thru it so far. What was your core wood? It just has a vibration I have not had time to figure out yet.
(https://i.imgur.com/YM0hmns.jpg)
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The tip seemed really stiff on the limb that didn’t go. I’m not sure the hooks are it either but gonna try a plain .001 to see if they open up a bit.
Core was aboo and I wondered about it too, if maybe red elm or maple would be better ...
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All three are well proven. I'm doubting it was the cores. OTOH, maple and elm have very long term track records. I'm learning a lot at your expense that's for sure. :)
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Every bow I have built for several years has had Aboo in it. It is all not created equal. Lots of top names use it also.
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I have had no failures with aboo, and it failed in the straighter part of limb so I don't think that is it either...
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You're kinda in a spot as far as variables go. Probably shouldn't change too many at once. I've done that one before! Problem solved. Wonder what the problem was??? 8-)
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Yep Mike, if you change 2 things, you only have a 50% chance of thinking you know what the prob was... :biglaugh:
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Are you gluin another one up.
?
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?? :o
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Yep it's cookin now... :)
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Gonna order some stuff soon just need to figure out how much.
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Ya got to put some Pink in one so's if ya do get Roy for a victim :laughing: :bigsmyl:
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Almost glued this one up in pink , but already had the char/yellow riser and didn't figure it would go together...
BTW - it's a PITA to save a one pc riser , got to be careful on the fades. But it can be done...
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Take two , going a lot slower on this one... figured I’d get a pic this time before full draw.
No superlam but still lots of hook when strung ... (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190123/7512ea3d5a7c0507b100184257430b68.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190123/f3928cf16fb019e93fda8b20bd846b24.jpg)
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Take pichers this time and videos:)
Wish ya luck, bro.
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Wow, that was fast. Looks good.
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That's looking good. So, this bow has a .001 taper throughout with no T wedge? Did you make any changes in the frontal profile or plan to?
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No change except just a .001 taper with no wedges.
So far the limbs are wanting to twist when drawn on shooting machine .
Thinkin on that!! Big hooks without carbon must be hard to do...
wonder if anglecut awood has something to do with it, kind of like fancy zebra wants to twist.
I intended to put the lams in opposing each other on both sides of limb (like if you could look thru limb the angles would form Xs), will have to pull tape and see if I got that done...
Thinking the first bow probably twisted when I hand drew it is why it blew up. Bettin the string went over the side and I couldn't see it in time(and wasn't expecting it either).
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Maybe more parallel limb with minor taper to past mid limb and more agresive taper to the tips , front view ?
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Right now only tapered last 8” , the shape and size of hooks may not work but I have a backup plan...
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Does it have to do with piking it ? :bigsmyl:
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That was first plan on this one, but I meant on the next one... :biglaugh:
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Oooooh. That looks nasty Kenny! (in a good way)
Don't know much about glass building, but that design is one of the most stressed designs for wood bows. Long working hooks like that tend to have high string tension and as you've mentioned will make it unstable at brace. The more string touching the limb the more unstable or in other words wanting to flip and reverse string itself. Glad I'm not the one bracing it.
I hope it works out. It will be awesome if it does.
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So I piked to 58” and it seemed to make all the diff in the world . Before on the machine at 22 “ it was trying to twist the limbs.
Here is 28” and braced. Still plenty of hook at 58” length.
More to come ... (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190123/a8c66558c6270a4d65b1182996dd3d0b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190123/c2130c8324779f4351769d0f81134909.jpg)
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You named it. Plenty of hook at full draw, but if you can swing it, okay. I would think it will be very easy to get twisted tips as the bow is used over the years.
But then again I am often wrong. :bigsmyl:
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From the pic it looks like the working limb has a nice rounded profile did you put it on the scale ?
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No nock points and scale wanted to slide on string but I think it is about 45@ 28" , went with .265" stack this time...
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I may call her hooker!!
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Did you put stablecore in it. That stuff helps a bunch. I think you still got plenty of hook with out getting crazy like a Morrison design and yes them big hooks are harder to keep straight. But if you get them right they ought to be quick.How she shoot?
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Hooker Now I know you shoulda had pink in it.
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No SK in this one, trying to see what I can do without it, then with it all should be even better! I was looking at your version, looks like a little less deflex (or a straighter mid limb) and a sharper kink at the hook. Amazing how little stuff can affect the outcome!!
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I may call her hooker!!
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Good deal on weight , I'm suprised the hooks didn't open more with no SL but bet it has plenty early draw weight , looks cool :thumbsup:
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Good deal on weight , I'm suprised the hooks didn't open more with no SL but bet it has plenty early draw weight , looks cool :thumbsup:
Me too, but I kind of like what she is doin...
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Sure has some hooks on her...
Not too shabby ole timer..
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I am interested to know how it feels after the shoot. Maybe I need to leave the tip wedge out. How long is that riser?
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Haven't shot it yet, putting overlays on... the riser is 16" on it.
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Thanks for showing this Kenny Im taking notes that .001 taper & no SL looks just about perfect for those short working limbs !
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Looks like your getting it figured out, those large diameter hooks are a problem, very unstable regardless of how straight, does'nt take much to twist it out. Looks like you could make it even shorter and still get a smooth draw. What is the brace height.
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Captain Hook?
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Mark, I'm at 7" in the pics.
Ben, I like the short version-- hooker !! LOL
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The way the limbs behaved at 60" on shooting machine, I believe the first bow blew because I rushed it drawing by hand to see how it felt and the limb turned inside out...
Like Mark said , the big hooks are tough to get working right. Prob why most big hookers use carbon at least on one side...
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The Carbon Hooker?
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I wanna see the full draw picher outside by the pond:)
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Carbon hooker, sounds expensive.
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It may be spring before I go out by pond... Gonna be -5 tonite and high winds.
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I thought u wuz ruff n tuff?
I understand Pappy:)
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Maybe, but not all dumb! :laughing:
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At least I like the handle...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190126/0e020601c3fd09d68f4629de9c10a943.jpg)
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NICE :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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That is a sweet looking handle
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That grey action wood is awesome !
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Nice bro..
:thumbsup:
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Shaping on it now, had to shoot it. Seems to have the vibe that Mike's had. We may just be used to longbows. A heavy handle might help too. Not handshock just a little vibe after the shot.
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Send it my way Ken . I'll shoot it in for you! If it was 20# I would say sent it to Roy.
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Hey boobacker, your yew bow broke today when I was trying to pry the door open...
:laughing:
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Ha mine is bad Kenny. had to crank it up to 8 1/2 brace and gets some better. I am think shorter working limb to bring the preload up :dunno: Yellar and gray works. About anything works with gray. I am thinking when I get time I may use my limb profile into a three piece.
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I dont think so, it's to heavy for you to PICK up.
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Looking good Kenny.
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Unless something changes , this is the only bow off this form. The 58" FHLB is faster , better lookin , easier to string, easier to build, and faster... :biglaugh:
Still tweaking on it tho, will see...
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My thinking is the riser needs to be about 22 in. and PL two in. past the fades. shortens the working limb = a lot less mass to move and more preload. Think about a TD that would have a 17 in. riser and wedges maybe 3-4 past the end. Shortens the working limb a bunch.
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Great lookin bow Kenny! Questions for you. Keep in mind I'm a self bow, with a bendy handle kinda a guy. I've been making bows a while now, but just getting into some glass bows, and I'm fairly new to this whole riser thing. The piece you added to the belly side appears to be simply for the sake of bulking up the handle area in order to cut in the grip design you prefer. My question is.. Is that piece needed for the structure of it, or just for building up the handle.
The reason I ask is, because I really like the looks of that bow without that piece. You posted a full draw pic without it. Also being more into the bendy handle bow, I am used to and prefer a small handle area. Next question is if you were to cut into the handle area without that added piece, is that gonna cause an issue with weakness at the handle? I'd be carving into the glass simply to round some edges. Thanks for the input.
Tattoo Dave
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I will let Kenny answer but here is one being pulled to 31" draw with no belly lam on, I do 90% of the tiller before putting on the belly lam ,CS Mike above you there has made a few with barely any belly lam on ,with that riser sandwiched between the glass its pretty strong , I never cut in a arrow rest and arrow pass with out the belly lam in place but thought about doing one like you said !
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The belly grip overlay is not needed entirely for strength, but without it the glass will be wide and flat on the belly and uncomfortable to shoot. On glass bows , if you can keep the riser from being bendy, it will increase performance quite a lot.
The grip overlay adds to the flat where the glass is to round the belly of grip to be comfy. If you rounded without it you would be pretty well rid of the glass on belly which adds a lot of strength.
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I was thinking about just rounding the glass a tad and doing a padded leather wrap make it look kinda traditional your bow looks awsome Kenny I think its hard to top the performance of the FHLB , if it ever stops snowing I can find out on my lattest I think is going to be my fastest one but will see :laugh:
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You ca always Ibeam your riser for the strength. I shape thru most of my belly glass on forward handles with no problems. Roy likes this one
(https://i.imgur.com/PprSUBl.jpg)
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All great info. Thanks everyone!
Tattoo Dave