Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Forwardhandle on December 07, 2018, 08:17:32 PM
-
This is a hypothetical design question there is no right or wrong answer, I'm just trying to get a ruff idea on a design ,here is the scenario if you have say a 50lb. Glass Bow @28" that has 3" of reflex and with out changing the stack you added another 1" of reflex, what would be your ruff guess on weight gain ?
-
3#
-
My 64” d/r gained 5 lb with adding 1”
-
Well I guess my thinking is adding 1" in front of the handle by decreasing deflex and increasing reflex is going to add more weight then just increasing reflex with the same amount of deflex , but I don't know ,just really texting out loud trying to put my mind around it ,but in the end it will be swag any how , I just don't know if the reflex becomes exponential weight wise ,so my guess is it would put me in the ball park figuring 6lb.
-
It is like adding draw length. My guess is slowly adding it from mid limb would end up being more than 1 in. draw weight. By Kennys gain almost 2-1. And Roys 1.5 -1 on 2.5 gain per inch.
-
Thanks for the help guys so I'm going to figure the 1"= 6 lb to play it safe , so here is the next hypothetical ? The test bow will be 64" FHLB with about 4" aprox reflex , but also thinking of increasing the riser length by 2 in. I'm going to assume it would have the same effect draw weight gain & mass on the limbs as shortening the bow ? So my guess by doing it I'm back to the standard gain of 3lb per inch or do you think the additional reflex will contribute more weight gain ? Like I said no right ,wrong answer just bouncing it around with you guys ,my goal is bring the brace height down on the longer bow and at the same time increasing early draw weight & lowering mass for the longer bow hopefully would translate to FPS gain :coffee:
-
I think one change at a time. get those results then do another so you know whats what. Too many changes at once gonna confuse you. :tongue:
-
What taper rate are you using Ritchie?
-
Too many changes at once gonna confuse you.
Come on Mike, don't mess him up anymore than he is..
If you fear failure, you will never try !
:laughing:
-
Mike I was going to bring that up next, I was thinking of staying .001 with the supper lam for the first test bow but changing the rake on the deflex I'm probably going to get more bend so I don't know ? all thoughts are welcome..lol and I think for the first I better baby step it and use the standard riser length and then go from there I can always build another form ,I all ready figure it may take me a few !
-
Roy we posted same time but I do my best work in a state of confusion :biglaugh:
-
I’m gonna assume you have a high brace height to get the string off the limbs and quiet the bow?
The simple fix may be an increase in taper rate. This would get the tips bending a little sooner.
-
Or, if your using tip wedges, you could reduce those.
-
With more reflex you may not need the tip wedge.
-
Wow , just guestimate and make it, try and make it functional and after the first one you'll know, and then experiment on it for the next 4 years, it might turnout good the first time. :dunno:
-
Oh yea after 4 years of tweking, it will resemble the rest of the well made bows that have been around for a while. Don't ask how I came to that conclusion. :thumbsup:
-
Wow a lot to ponder, Brad it's actually more then just brace height, by looking at the pic full draw you can see the bow is capable of a lot more draw that's at 30-30 1/2 " the wife was slow on the camera trigger and 60 lb is a lot for me...lol but I don't want to use the words over built but I think this bow is capable of a lot more stress by less deflex & more reflex , Mike I don't know I will glue the first up with .001 and the supper lam & go from there , Mark I'm probably shaving time off I'm using one of Kenny's existing designs just modifying it with his permission of course, so a lot of ground work was already done , I'm just trying for a supper hunting bow so will see ! [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
-
Just me......but I’d try one with .002 or .003 taper before reworking the form.
That should help with the brace and bring the tips in more at full draw. Plus it would also reduce mass in the outer limb where it is most important.
-
What Brad said, or maybe do one with no tip wedges....
-
Thanks guys it sure won't hurt trying that before building another form , I will try a .002 total after the 60 " is done , thanks guys glad I posted I have some new tools in my pocket now to try :)
-
The reason I said no tip wedge is it looks to have a distinct change in bend where the wedge starts. I'm building one now without to see on a 58 or 60...
-
I agree with Gramps Pap Pap.
:knothead:
I think it would look a lot better without the tip wedges so it would have a better braced and full draw profile and would be a tad lighter.
But heck I don't make gwass bows...
-
My only concern with no tip wedges is the string angle ,I'm working on this 64" beast right now and sense I narrowed the limbs and at that string angle this thing is a barn burner at my draw ,so I think baby stepping it a little at time & try a total of .002 & if that doesn't work then the no wedge current brace height is 8 1/4 " my widow recurve braces at 9" so it's not to bad and what the heck it will give me a excuse to build a couple more chasing the dream...lol in some ways the higher brace height is good you can use a wider variety arrows :)
-
Too much taper with no wedge will hurt your string angle. What I done on a form once was build in a slight lever on the very end of tip starting back about 4 in. from the grooves. About 1/2 in. will be good.
-
I have built many self bows like your talking Mike so Im real familiar with what your saying , I have been tunning on this bow all morning thinking about what is said here its to late to change the taper rate but did some more narrowing and trapping I got this bow down to about 57 3/8 lb and droped the brace to 7 7/8 with no contact the tips are still setting wide tell I get the overlays on but think ones I get them narrow maybe like the leaver you said, I can drop more but it picked up more steam ,I can hat trick 201 fps at 30 1/2 550 grain ,I dont know the formula for converting that to 28" draw would be, maybe if I can get this to 7 1/2 brace the height will be a non issue but im done narrowing the limbs I dont think I have any more room left !
-
I still want to try the other form really as a new bow all together ,I think adding another 1 to 1 1/2 of reflex & decreasing the deflex the same would pep the bow up a bit but with the higher reflex even the 3" bracing this bow you need a stringer this bow has the earelst draw weight to brace glass bow I have made yet I would imagine the 4" would be scarier to brace , it might change the shooting characteristics but like Kenny says only one way to find out , (That must be a Show Me State thing :goldtooth:)
-
I remember some where a 3-1 ratio may be pretty good.
-
Mike are you saying 3" of reflex to 1"
Of deflex ?