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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: LaBill67 on November 07, 2018, 07:20:49 AM
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I recently heard it said by a well known boyer that when working down a white wood stave like hickory, maple, etc. there is no need to chase down a growth ring. So I'm wondering what the general consensus of opinions are concerning this. Thanks ahead of time for your inputs. I ask because I recently started working down a pecan stave I sat aside to season in August 2017.
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1917 how old are you????
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You always want to try to get to a single, unblemished ring on the back of a wood bow. The only exception that I know of would be yew.
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Thanks for the catch Crooked Stic. That stave from 1917 would really be seasoned by now. And I would be well beyond being able to work it. LOL.
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Thanks Pat B. I have begun the process of chasing down the ring, my first one by the way. I was also told to do this process in the sun so as to be able to better see what I am doing and to not get in a hurry. So far what I've learned is that the process isn't easy.
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I have found ring chasing on hickory isn't necessary but I do it anyway because I like the look of a nice clean back on a bow.
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Do you think that he meant that on white woods you can just remove the bark in the early growing season and that's your back; no chasing a ring necessary since you have a pristine ring under the bark?
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There are too many variables to answer specifically to your piece of wood but....you can get away with it. Got any pics of your piece?
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I suspect he may have meant what Bmorv mentioned. Usually when folks say, "You don't have to chase a growth ring on whitewood staves", they don't mean that they violate/cut through numerous rings with abandon, but rather, that you don't have to chase a ring because when cut during the growing season, the bark will pop off with ease, revealing a pristine, unviolated single growth ring that is then used for the bow's back.
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Thanks to everyone who replied to my posting. When I first cut this pecan and quartered it, I debarked it as well and sealed all bare wood to prevent checking, cracking, etc. That was August 2017. Now I
pulled out one of the quarters and making my first attempt at using the stave to make a self bow. I have started removing the porous outer layer of grain getting down to the next layer. So far I've done about 4 inches using a drawknife and scraper. It would have been much easier to just went ahead and left it as it was but now that I've started chasing the ring down I guess I'll continue.
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If you peeled off the bark what was under was your pristine back. The cambium(darker, spongy under the bark) layer is easily removed.
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Lots of choices. Personally, I would probably abandon the idea of chasing a ring if you only have 4" done. Scrape the cambium off, being careful not to get into the actual wood. Pecan can handle if you make some mistakes along the way. Then lay out a good whitewood design and make the bow.
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There is no need to chase a ring on a whitewood stave unless the bark removal resulted in cutting through a ring.
If the bowyer waits until the growing season the bark will peel off easily.
Jawge
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Yup on peeling bark off white wood trees and that's the back of the bow.
Best time to cut a white wood tree is late September, as the present seasons growth is about done, but the bark will peel off easily.
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I prefer to cut whitewood in the spring so the ring under the bark has had all winter to mature. To each, his own. :goldtooth:
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Quit being difficult ole timer:)
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:saywhat:
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:wavey:
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Reread his posts fellas. Due to some vague info and misused terminology, none of us yet knows exactly what he's dealing with. He said he already "debarked it and sealed bare wood". What all came off when he did so? What is the 'porous outer layer of grain' he's removing?
George, technically, removing the inner bark and cambium with drawknife and scraper to reveal a single sapwood growth ring is 'chasing a ring'.
We need pictures so we know what he's dealing with before we give advice.
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Bowjunkie, I guess one could look at it that way. :)
Jawge
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I dont have a lot of experience in chasing rings, but if you are worried about a splinter lifting just back it. Some times air is preferred but a little insurance is a bird in the sack......
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With white woods you still want as clean of back as you can get. But if you do go through a ring while cleaning it up, it’s not an issue. Just a feather it out so the violation is a smooth tradition and forget about it. Certain woods can handle violations better due to grain structure, essentially the early growth is a lot more solid and fused to the late growth. It’s the woods with the porous early growth like Osage and black locust you need to worry about with ring violations. I’ve found that ERC and black locust sapwood are two that can handle ring violations like what yew can.
Kyle
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Thanks to all for getting back to me on this post.