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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: klr650Teach on October 06, 2018, 12:08:03 PM
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Hello fello bowyers/archers, I found a nice chunk of red oak board at the local lumber yard. I'm wanting to back it but materials to choose from for the backing are scarce here. I wanted to use rawhide but havn't found any. Then I watched a how to on backing and the fellow was using fiberglass tape used in drywall applications. This got me thinking as to whether or not I might be able to use a window screen material to do the same job? I would think the nylon would be better than the aluminum types because of the elasticity that the aluminum I don't think would have. What other common household items might be able to be used for backing material - inside or outside of the box thinking? tnx guys.
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https://pinehollowlongbows.com/t/sinew--rawhide-backing
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Brown grocery bags, silk or linen from used cloths shops all make very good backings, not for performance but for security. They can all be put down with any common wood glue. I like Tite Bond III for it's water proof quality.
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Thanks Pat, Roy posted the link above but I was hoping for some more readily obtained items such as those you proposed as ordering and getting things into the country can be an absolute PITA.
Using these types of materials.......how many layers is recommended? As a first build I'll be more concerned with security than performance. I'd like to have success on the first build. I have lots of woodworking experience including years of carving experience.
I would use Titebond III also, plus it dries up slower giving more working time if a person needs it. But I've not found it here in Mexico.
The brown grocery bags you mentioned - were those plastic or the old style brown paper bag type? You did not specify. Thanks
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Brown paper bags. It is amazingly strong when saturated with the glue. Any good carpenters glue will work. Only one layer is needed. More than that can detract from the bow's cast.
We can buy silk neck ties here for a dollar or 2 at used clothes shops. Not only do you get the protection but also a cool design for your bow. :shaka:
You should be able to find goat rawhide there in Mexico. Goat rawhide is thin and very strong. Maybe at a saddle shop.
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klr650, check your pm
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Thanks Roy.
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Brown paper bags. It is amazingly strong when saturated with the glue. Any good carpenters glue will work. Only one layer is needed. More than that can detract from the bow's cast.
We can buy silk neck ties here for a dollar or 2 at used clothes shops. Not only do you get the protection but also a cool design for your bow. :shaka:
You should be able to find goat rawhide there in Mexico. Goat rawhide is thin and very strong. Maybe at a saddle shop.
I like the silk tie idea. I've seen some pretty weird and wacked out ties in the past. Some others that could suffice a pretty decent cammo pattern. The brown paper and other materials, could they be cut up and glued on in a patchwork sort of pattern just to break up a pattern or perhaps create a pattern or would this too affect the bow's cast?
Also, once glue is applied to the wood of the bow and the backing laid down is another layer of glue needed for the top side of the backing to have it saturated with glue from both under and above?
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You could do a patchwork however it would add more physical weight to the limbs than a single layer. If you decide to do the patchwork tear each piece instead of cutting it out. The frayed edges of the torn paper will blend in with whats under it and give a stronger grip than a cut edge.
The paper should be saturated. Size the bows back with the glue, lay the paper(silk, linen) on the limb and add glue over that. Work out air bubbles and glue pockets and remove any excess glue. Let it cure for 24 hours.
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Seriously why does Backing have to be Natural...? We are using man made glues, strings etc.....who cares. I have good success using polyester backing, its stronger than a thin silk tie or paper bag. Polyester is very strong and you can find thin material if you shop around. They use poly in tires why not a bow..!
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Seriously why does Backing have to be Natural...? We are using man made glues, strings etc.....who cares. I have good success using polyester backing, its stronger than a thin silk tie or paper bag. Polyester is very strong and you can find thin material if you shop around. They use poly in tires why not a bow..!
Don't go away.........I'm all ears. Polyester in what form? What materials are easily had in this stuff? Do tell and please be thorough........I want to learn here. I have no objection to any material except those that are toxic. As long as they work..............why fix it right? I'd prefer natural, but I'm open to anything that works.
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if you are not looking for to add extra power to bow, you can use fiber glass fabric or hemp fabric with epoxy. both are making very good and solid backing.
best.
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out of the fabrics, i have always used silk, i guess mostly cos i just liked the idea of it :)
however i have seen many folk build bows with that polyester tape thats used for drywalling.
i agree with wolf, we use so many synthetic glues, and electricity to power our tools etc, but i guess we just have to do what we feel comfortable with.
anyway, i thought i had better do some very quick research, and found this.
however my first choice of backing would be thin rawhide, and Roy's suggestion is excellent
(http://i.imgur.com/fxZ0m52.png) (https://imgur.com/fxZ0m52)
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Seriously why does Backing have to be Natural...? We are using man made glues, strings etc.....who cares. I have good success using polyester backing, its stronger than a thin silk tie or paper bag. Polyester is very strong and you can find thin material if you shop around. They use poly in tires why not a bow..!
Don't go away.........I'm all ears. Polyester in what form? What materials are easily had in this stuff? Do tell and please be thorough........I want to learn here. I have no objection to any material except those that are toxic. As long as they work..............why fix it right? I'd prefer natural, but I'm open to anything that works.
I have used silk, paper and linen. Linen seemed ok. I noticed that silk breaks easy. Raw hide is hard to find in our parts or I would use it no problem. :archer2:
Check your local fabric shop or Walmart for polyester.
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Wolf, we have some of the best Rawhide around, up here in the PNW, the Blacktail have a really thin hide, and makes an awesome bow backing, i have a few mates on Van isle that could hook you up with some deer hides- and its super easy to process, 2x4's for a frame and some builders lime and vinegar.
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however my first choice of backing would be thin rawhide, and Roy's suggestion is excellent
(http://i.imgur.com/fxZ0m52.png) (https://imgur.com/fxZ0m52)
I saw Roy's link, but not a comment or suggestion. What was it?
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Once the backing is glued on and dried I can then proceed to tiller. Once the bow is completed I'll want to seal it somehow. I have access to linseed oil, paraffin wax, bee's wax, probably varnish, alcohol, kerosene and maybe turpentine. These I know I can get here. I could build a french polish with these materials. Is there a more desirable modern finish that I could perhaps ask a store keeper to order in for me? What would be the best way to go?
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Linseed oil from that list.
Can you get tung oil there?
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Be sure to use boiled linseed oil. Raw takes a long time to dry. Can you get poly varnish? Water based or oil base will work.
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roy,s suggestion of using goat rawhide, as its so thin and very tough.
maybe access to a saddle shop/ saddler would procure some.
also, rawhide is very easy to "make" if you can find someone who is butchering a goat.
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What fujimo said.
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Linseed oil from that list.
Can you get tung oil there?
I'm not sure Roy, I've not seen it. I'll look up what the name is in Spanish and keep an eye out in the hardware store next visit. Is it superior to linseed oil?
I have purified raw linseed oil here that has all the fats that go rancid over time removed and then washed 4-5 more times. It is a very light golden color when finished and dries much faster than regular linseed oil.
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Be sure to use boiled linseed oil. Raw takes a long time to dry. Can you get poly varnish? Water based or oil base will work.
Hi Pat, as stated in my reply to Roy you will know the linseed oil I use. Poly Varnish? Varnish I can get. What is "Poly"? polyester, polyvynle , polyeurothane? Poly"what"? Sorry to be a pain. As I'll have to translate this into Spanish for the store owner I must know exactly what it is. Thanks
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roy,s suggestion of using goat rawhide, as its so thin and very tough.
maybe access to a saddle shop/ saddler would procure some.
also, rawhide is very easy to "make" if you can find someone who is butchering a goat.
I had explained to Roy in a PM that I have lots of tanning experience mostly with Brain and Bark tanning methods. Making rawhide I can do with my eyes closed. My Mexican neighbor just told me he had thrown out several goat skins because he had too many of them but assured me he would let me know when he had more. Eventually I will be able to get some goat skin. At this rate it could be months before I gather all the materials. I will be keeping my eyes open for silk ties. I think they will be much easier to source this time around. But you never know.
Just thought of something else. Can a silk tie be dyed a different color? Any idea what a person would use?
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Polyurethane, spray or brush/wipe on.
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Seriously why does Backing have to be Natural...? We are using man made glues, strings etc.....who cares. I have good success using polyester backing, its stronger than a thin silk tie or paper bag. Polyester is very strong and you can find thin material if you shop around. They use poly in tires why not a bow..!
when you say polyester do you mean this?
(http://www.erguvanambalaj.com/images/page/polyester-cember-1.jpg)
does this act like fiberglass?
it is strong as fiberglass? i mean, in fiberglass bow, nearly 70-80% of bow weight comes from fiberglass.
best.
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I believe Wolftrail was referring to polyester cloth like shirt material is often blended with cotton and polyester. I took him to mean pure polyester and not blended with any other fabric material. That's how I understood it.
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"Tung" has no translation. Tung oil is "aceite de tung"
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Any material that can be saturated with glue will work, some better than others. George Tsoukalas uses burlap with good results. I've only used rawhide, linen or silk
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"Tung" has no translation. Tung oil is "aceite de tung"
tung oil is "aceite de lengua" if using the the spelling of tongue in English which I guess is different again.
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Any material that can be saturated with glue will work, some better than others. George Tsoukalas uses burlap with good results. I've only used rawhide, linen or silk
Pat, today I bought two silk ties and each are of similar color patterns and also found proper white wood glue (not water resistant). I thought that if one tie was not enough that I could use part of the second tie or the whole tie for the second limb. If I made a pyramid bow I might have enough to back the whole bow with one tie. And the finish I put on the bow will seal it.
Would there be any problem with overlapping the material if say I had to use two shorter pieces on one limb? Rather than butting two edges against one another??
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When I back a bow with soft materials(rawhide, silk, linen, snake skins, etc.) I always do each limb separately and overlap at the handle. If you have enough material overlap it by 4" otherwise as much as possible. You don't have to go all the way to the tips either unless that how you want to do it. I usually leave the last 6" of each limb bare and bind that end of the backing with a wrap with thin, strong thread or sinew set in glue.
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If you can find some of those big spiral rawhide dog chews, they can be softened and unraveled and work well as a backing. Might need two for coverage. I use clarified raw linseed all the time on interior wood, should be ok as long as you don't leave it out in the weather.
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Has anyone ever used bark tanned deer hide for backing? I have half a hide left over from my last bark tanning session. Would this work or is there too much stretch in fully tanned leather to work as backing?
It strikes me like the hide in a rawhide chew bone would be thicker than what might be ideal, this led me to wonder about the bark tanned deer hide I have which is less than 1/8 inch thick with the grain not removed.
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That will work.
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Would it be best to glue the flesh side or the hair side of the leather to the face of the back?
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I'd say flesh, but I never seen bark tanned deer hides. Maybe Pat will jump in.
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Top photo is of the hair/grain side
Bottom photo is the flesh side
Unlike brain tanned deer hide that has a lot of stretch, bark tanned deer hide has very little stretch and is more suitable for making pouches, purses, possibles bags etc. Not so great for clothing as there isn't much give for movement.
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Put the bottom picture against the bow is my guess.
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Put the bottom picture against the bow is my guess.
Smoother surface = better adhesion?
And should I size both the wood and the leather letting them go tacky before marrying the two and final backing?
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IMO, even tough you can used tanned leather for a backing I don't think it's a good idea. Tanned leather would soak up extra glue making it heavier(physically) and will attract moisture. Put a drop of water on a piece of that leather and see how quickly it absorbs the water.
Deer or goat rawhide are both excellent for backing because they are thin and strong.
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:shaka: