So I recently started shooting a Bear Cheyenne at 35#. I shot 45# and 50# for years but I've been getting back to basics with my form. So far so good right?
But here is my dilemma.. my arrows are all 500 spine and I have about 2 dozen of them. They seem to shoot fine most of the times but im sure a 600 or 700 spined arrow would be better. Is there anyway to feign a reduction of spine ? For example making bigger feathers or a heavier tip on the front? Are there any arrow gods that have some tips or should I just suck it up and get a dozen lighter spined darts .
Load up the tip and lighten the load in the rear.
Hmm that makes sense. How would I go about lightening the rear? I just use 3 feathers and a normal nock.
Then don't worry bout the rear just load up the front.
Can also try to raise the bh to weaken it a bit. If all else fails slap a flipper rest on it!
There's times when a heavy head can be a real good thing. I think 3 Rivers sells a field point test kit. Raising the brace height as mentioned is another little cheat I've used in the past with great success. Good on you for dropping low and working on form, I'm sure some wonky arrow flight can make that frustrating. I'm the guy that always says I'm going to do that but never does. Someday maybe haha
Thanks these are some cool tips.. maybe I'll get a few 150s and slap em on the front end and see how it goes. I don't have the patience to mess with BH I tried it in the past and ended up getting a bit frustrated haha.
I usually only recommend brace height tunning for small adjustments, and of course never outside the perimeters of the bowyers recommended brace height range. All tunning frustrates me, thats a big reason I switched to woodies a few years ago. Dont ask me why, but I hate tunning carbon arrows. Most other people have zero issues with it, its just that for me, wood is the easiest arrow to tune as long as im not trying to go hard in the paint with higher FOC or anything.
What's your draw length?
Length of .500 arrow?
They are full length un cut Trad gold tips
Draw length is around 27.5
175s and 200s are worth a try too, just to make sure. They'll hit hard. Shoot a few bare shafts with the different point weights to see which ones flies the best and group best with the fletched arrows using corresponding point weights.
i am more of a wood type of guy, but most of the stuff crosses over, except that on woodies its a lot easier to make a significant difference to the aft mass of them.
but here are some excerpts from some of my notes
Raising the BH will -
Weaken the dynamic spine
Slow the arrow speed (slightly)
Increase the draw weight (questionable?)
Lowering the BH will do the opposite.
Build out the strike plate will make a bow want a softer spine.
To stiffen dynamic spine. (less flex)
Reduce point weight
Shorten arrow
Add weight to back of arrow
increase string diameter, add silencers, add more serving
Reduce brace height
build out the strike plate
build out strike plate- taking the arrow further from center will make your bow match the weaker shafts better.
To weaken/soften dynamic spine (more flex)
Add point weight
Leave arrow longer
Reduce weight from back of arrow
Use thinner string, remove silencers, reduce serving diameter and length)
Increase brace height ( weaken dynamic spine)
reduce thickness of the strike plate, will make your bow match the stiffer shafts better.