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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Hoosierarcher88 on August 23, 2018, 11:53:22 PM
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So ive got a question for yall reguarding wood arrows. Does anyone notice a poi change when the temperature outside changes? Ive been shooting woods the last few weeks and one thing ive noticed is from the hottest day (94°) to the coolest (55° last night with my lights on outside) my left and rights vary a decent bit. Up and down doesnt change much but the cooler it is the more left i shoot. Just messing around i put 2 of my shafts outside in the sun on hot concrete (my ir thermometer read 82°) and 2 shafts in my cold bedroom which is 60°. After they sat for about a half hour i ran out to shoot. The 2 warm arrows hit good windage and elevation wise, the 2 cold arrows hit about 8" left and 2" low.
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Theoretically wood can get stiffer, a little bit, with a wide temperature change, like from 90 degrees to below zero. Even at those extremes I have not seen much difference with my arrows. I shoot 1918s and Surewoods that are the same weight and spine, from summer to winter they fly the same.
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At first i was just thinking it was my bow as it warmed up it would start shooting back where it should but i had been shooting a good deal yesterday with 2 arrows and decided to grab a couple more from inside the house and thats when i noticed the 2 from the cool room would shoot left for about 10 minutes till they warmed up then they hit right with the others afterwards. Its weird because my other woods dont do it, just the new ones i got from rose city.
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Is the eye of the grain of the wood arrow in line with the nock and the string?
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The grain on this set goes all different directions
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If I remember correctly your previous post talked about these being your first wood arrows. Excuse me if you already know, but wood arrows should have grain run out (arrow-like grain) on the top and bottom of the shaft when nocked, and relatively straight lines on the sides running down the length of the arrow. The straight grain should be perpendicular to the riser. I can't imagine a reputable company like Rose City selling arrows with runout all over the shaft, but stranger things have happened.
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Looking at the dozen i have 4 with the grain run out on top and bottom when nocked, 3 have the grain run out on the sides when nocked and the remaining 5 shafts the run out is angled
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Looking at the dozen i have 4 with the grain run out on top and bottom when nocked, 3 have the grain run out on the sides when nocked and the remaining 5 shafts the run out is angled
That isn't good.
They all should be like the first 4 you mentioned.
The last 5 sound like poor shafts.
Remove the nocks from the 3 with the run out on the side and reinstall the nocks properly like the first 4 are.
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Ive got one of the shafts where i can follow the grain from the runout on one side to a runout on the other side about 5 inches down, grain cuts across the shaft at about a 20° angle. Ill try the nock trick and see how those shafts react.
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Ive got one of the shafts where i can follow the grain from the runout on one side to a runout on the other side about 5 inches down, grain cuts across the shaft at about a 20° angle.
I would break that one over my knee.
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Ive got one of the shafts where i can follow the grain from the runout on one side to a runout on the other side about 5 inches down, grain cuts across the shaft at about a 20° angle.
I would break that one over my knee.
that bad huh lol
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Better over the knee than through the arm :biglaugh:
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This is what can happen with a bad wooden arrow, or a good wooden arrow that hit a tree or rock and got cracked, or a good arrow that the nock was aligned the wrong way..
Even a cracked carbon arrow is bad news.
Always inspect your arrows before shooting.
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You paid good money for a set of arrows. I would talk to the seller and see if they would make it right before changing nocks, breaking them over my knee, or anything else. Pictures would be good.
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The technical term is "slope of grain", and any slope of grain that crosses the shaft from one side to the other in a few inches of length is dangerous! This seriously weakens the shaft, and it can shear off when shot or on impact. Slope of grain also makes it difficult to keep the shaft straight.
I've shot wood exclusively for the last couple of decades, and I've never noticed an influence on impact point relative to temperature. High temperatures can affect the bow, though.
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I have never noticed any significant change in point of impact based on temperature. My shooting tends to vary in temps ranging from the 90's to the 40's, which is a significant difference but nothing like some of the northern and western shooters experience. I try to avoid the extreme grain run out on my arrows but have had a few. When I was younger, it never crossed my mind how dangerous this could be; however, I never had a problem. As I gained experience, I learned to avoid shafts with great run out. I do try to keep the grain lines perpendicular to the string, as it is stronger. In my opinion it gives a more consistent spine measurement. At the 15 - 20 range I will be shooting, this is not enough of a problem to worry about. The shots will still strike in the proverbial pie plate.
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Hoosy, are you the guy that posted pics of a set of arrows with all different colored fletching? If so, is this that set? For your next set of arrows I would like to suggest a can of water based wipe on poly, a tube of Duco, a basic taper tool, some left wing feathers, a basic fletcher, some 5/16" Mercury nocks, and a dozen tapered shafts from Wapiti Archery, let them pick the spine. Either that or if you ever pass near here, let me know and we will put a set together that flies perfect for you.
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Yep this is the set that is all different colors. The arrows are mismatched colors but spine and weight was all fairly consistent. I bought them off rose city's sale page. They were suppose to be 28.5" bop but when i received them the box was marked 27.5" and they measure out 27.5". I really cant complain much as they cost barely more than what the dozen broadheads cost. I got them to get me into some woodies till i could get the time to build my own.
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If some one has not told you already, you need to identify the shafts that do not have the the eyes inline with the bow string and replace the nocks and position them so the eye of grain is inline with the throat of the nock and and the side or straight grain is in line with the nock index. Forget about the feather position for now. If you have a choice in the runout, if the eye of the grain runout near the point has the feathered end and showing cross grains going to the point, put that on top. that way if the shaft is very bad the arrow will scoot up if it breaks and not down into your hand. It is unlikely that would happen, but it is the standard safety precaution.
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That makes sense pavan. Ill pull the nocks and put new ones on with the grain running the correct direction. Going into my first set of woods i was curious if there was a certain way to orient the grain so i went with rose city since they were an established business. Figured my safest route was to get arrows from someone who knows what they were doing
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What pavan said. Also, I have found the most critical thing in making arrows other than having the right spine, is getting the nocks on straight. A nock that is off by so little you don't notice it just looking, will cause that arrow to hit outside the group. Field points can be way off, but nocks and broadheads have to be perfectly aligned to get tight grouping. When I glue on nocks I spin the arrows on the point and watch the nock closely to make sure there's not the least amount of variance, just like I do when I mount broadheads. This is an area where less than perfect is not acceptable.
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I use jojan fletchers, 6 up, they take some finesse, but they work. I have one for right wing and one for left wing, both set at the same pitch. With mine, I like to put a bit angle on the helical, they put the hen feather straight down with 3 fletch left wings for a right hand bow and with right wings for a left hand bow. With ASLs I like to angle the high part of the bottom hen feather into the corner. So before I glue on feathers, I turn the unglued nock 1/8 turn counterclockwise and tack the nock with a dab of hot melt on the edge, not in. For right wing with a left hand bow I do the same clockwise. Then after the feathers are glued on, I rotate the arrow that same 1/8 turn to the shaft, this move turns what would be a vertical hen feather into the bow and realigns the nock to the shaft grain. With four inch four fletch i find that right wing naturally aligns with a right hand bow and left wing naturally aligns to a left hand bow, so I leave those as they are. If nothing else you can slap together a dozen new arrows and transfer the broad heads. then put corrected nocks on the arrows you have and put blunts or judos on them. It is no secret, my favorite arrows are always blunts, those are the ones that i have the most fun with, I absolutely love small game hunting. Last year I found the the 3 rivers hammers will do exactly that to a pheasant, bang and they are down.
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Most of the time I get either Wapiti or Surewood shafts with the nock taper already done, with Surewood I have the point tapers done by them as well. If you are doing both with parallel shafts, the cheaper taper tools work, but do not ever force the cut and keep things straight. To align broadheads, i cradle them on my 6 by fletcher take an Ajax container , I use it to scrub new aluminum shafts till they squeak, I line up the tip of the broadhead head to a letter and slowly rotate the arrow with the tip of the point at a small letter, when it is straight it will not walk around the letter in a circle, if the arrow is crooked or bent that needs to be straightened first.
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Like Paven I find shafts from Wapiti and SureWood to be more consistent and better quality.
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I received an email earlier from rose city after they saw a post where i was asking about my arrows on facebook and what i could do. Since the arrows were sent to me an inch shorter than what they were suppose to be they are sending me new ones. During the emails i also informed them of the bad grain runnout on the one shaft and things are being taken care of. Its nice to see a company reach out on their own and offer to correct a problem without being asked to.
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That's great. :clapper: