Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: joebuck on July 25, 2018, 09:53:26 AM
-
Howdy!
Has anyone ever glued wood to glass accent lam to wood with Unibond 800?
i am fixin to lay up a riser and thinking about accenting ( book casing) my wood herringbone inlay with thin black glass on each side.
-
Not sure unibond will do well with glass. I would trust smooth on more. Buuut I've never glued glass with unibond.
-
I would use smooth on also.
-
I stopped using the new Unibond altogether after a few failed glue ups. The old stuff seemed to be fine for wood but I wouldn't use it for glass to wood.
-
I cure with heating strips for bow limbs so if I use smooth on , would I need to build a heat box to cure smooth on like a limb?
-
Smooth on will cure at 70 degrees in 24 hours.
-
Smooth on
-
Smooth On??...hmmmmm..... Let me ask the brain trust here.......if smooth on will cure at 70 at X hrs......why go to trouble and build heat boxes to cook your bows at a higher temp? Just lay them up cold and keep clamped for 24 hrs?
I spoke with the UniBond company and in short....they said any material that for example water will penetrate the surface, Unibond will hold......he said fiberglass would probably not work...
-
Smooth On??...hmmmmm..... Let me ask the brain trust here.......if smooth on will cure at 70 at X hrs......why go to trouble and build heat boxes to cook your bows at a higher temp? Just lay them up cold and keep clamped for 24 hrs?
Because lots of guys build a lot of bows, so in a heat box the glue will cure in 4 hours or so at a very high temp. Like 160 to 180 degrees..
-
Maybe this is Urban Legend but.........................always heard :dunno: if a Smooth On glue line reach a temp substantial over cure temp..( lets say cured at 70 room and reach 120 in your car)...........it could fail?
I knew a bowyer in Fla in early 90's that this happened to...he quit curing at room temp and built a box....
Fedora sold me my heating strips in 92' and i have never 'cold ' glue anything with smooth on because of that bowyer experience.....so................................if ya'll are doing it..........good enough for me......thanks
-
My hunting bow from last year I glued at room temp because I heard it works. Still going thousands of shots later but I still heat the ones I build other than that one.
I figure it is good insurance, and I never leave mine exposed to high heat. :o
-
A hot box doesn't have to be to fancy I use 2 clip on shop lights from Harbor freight with 200 watt bulbs and a electric blanket tent and cure at 140 Deg for 5 hrs that simple set up will go over 200 Deg if I don't vent , I have a small shop and not much room for a hot box ! I have friends that have room temp cured smooth on with no issues for 1000s of arrows , I never leave my bows in a hot car , but leave one in a freezing car for back up hunting....lol
-
I had some old smooth on that I was unsure of so I did a test glue up with some 2 x 2 hickory at room temperature. 24 hours later clamped it in vise and used a pipe wrench to put some mojo on it. Broke right at the line. Did it again with the same glue in the hot box and it broke the wood. And that is saying something with hickory. Hot box only from now on.
-
Most any epoxie is stronger when heated you will also have more heat resistance, like hot sun. I would always cure with heat and mix a little more part A than part B .
-
Most any epoxie is stronger when heated you will also have more heat resistance, like hot sun. I would always cure with heat and mix a little more part A than part B .
Yes, this is exactly what I do. I go slightly heavy on the part "A". Especially when I'm mixing quantities too small to fill a portion cup, such as overlays.