Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: John Malone on May 01, 2018, 06:37:51 PM
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Ok guys, gonna try again. Hickory backing, red elm core, hickory belly. My backing came out to 3/32nds so I mad the belly a lil thicker than a 1/4 (11/32nds). Ive decided I will make one of these darn things or die trying, its personal now. Don't know about the belly being that thick but what the hell lets see what happens.
(https://i.imgur.com/PYSWId5l.jpg)
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Looks nice..
Wish you luck Johnny.
You should alternate the clamps every other one reversed.
But heck it's not my bow..
:laughing: :thumbsup:
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Pressure strip is to wide, that's the only way I can get the clamp centered. Hasn't caused a problem before, ya just have to make sure it doesn't twist anywhere.
I don't believe in luck by the way, you can wish me free beer, that would be cool.
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I'll send ya a PBR...
:thumbsup:
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Cool, I like Pabst.
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Well it came out of the form nice and even. In the center it is .620 at the end of the fade its .595 and .490 at the tips. With 27.5 from end of fade to tips that's a taper of .000381818. I have no idea what the hell that means but we will find out.
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Didn't happen wifout pichers... :thumbsup:
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Happy now.
(https://i.imgur.com/RHNuok5l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0j3pMdNl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YpZyOtQl.jpg)
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Looking at the belly it will most likely blow up. I cant win for loosing fellows.
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This wasn't there before glue up? Maybe I can put some unibond in there? It stops an inch or so before the limb starts to taper, which is 6 inches from the fade.
(https://i.imgur.com/mh1BlY4l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ezdJC54l.jpg)
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Cracks the length of the bow aren't necessarily the end of the bow. I had those show up on a couple different bows. I would say they are checks that were deep in the wood and came out when it was stressed in the form. It doesn't look too bad to me. Maybe someone with more experience with them can chime in, but the couple ones I've encountered didn't affect the bow.
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Thanks Ben, I feel better now. Gonna try it anyway. Should I fill it with some unibond when I glue the riser on, or use super glue?
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I saw Roy looking, but he left without saying a thing. :laughing:
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Now that I think about it, both times I had those were when I used an osage belly. I bet Roy has seen those with as much as he uses osage on his tri lams.
Unibond would be more for aesthetics, super glue would be your best bet a stopping the crack from propagating.
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I'd fill it and go for it.
I'd use super glue also.
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OK. I've read about super glue a lot, I'm more of the duct tape and coat hanger type but I can try new things.
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CA glue has a particular property that makes is useful in bow building. It can fit in tiny cracks were other glues can't.
Unibond is a gap filling glue and wouldn't get to the end or beginning of a crack where the glue it needed the most.
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That's what I thought, so I should put it in there until its full, multiple applications. That's what I've read anyhow.
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The real thin water like CA works great for crack filling I have had cracks like that before on sinew bows ! I never made a wood tri lam but those length wise cracks most times are a non issue on other wood bows other then esthetics !
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All i have on hand is gel, I know that want work, have to get to town to get the right stuff. Saturday maybe.
Thanks guys.
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I have had great success with Super glue normally on cracks about .006" - (6 thou in layman's terms). Has not let me down yet. I hate seeing cracks like that, a bowyers nightmare....... :scared:
I used feeler gauges exclusively in rebuilding car engines now I'm using it for bow building, go figure. Digital caliper.............whats that...? I'm old school if it breaks its the material dont need any fancy digital malarkey to tell me any different.
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Well tomato boy..
What's the deal?
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Been busy, gonna get some glue in there and a riser on it today. Don't rush an old man.
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Got the riser on and all cleaned up, it happened without pics. Ill get some this evening when I start tillering. Got some internet connection problems, gonna halve to call someone to fix it.
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I will make one of these damn things one day but evidently not today. The belly wood is thinner than the core and backing, it still wont bend in an arc. I never touched the fade area it bends in a V shape. Mid and outer limbs are straight as a board at 3/16 of belly wood. I think this hickory is cursed.
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I will make one of these damn things one day but evidently not today. The belly wood is thinner than the core and backing, it still wont bend in an arc. I never touched the fade area it bends in a V shape. Mid and outer limbs are straight as a board at 20 inches and 3/16 of belly wood. I think this hickory is cursed.
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Pictures Johnny..
Sounds like the fade area was made too narrow or the limbs are too wide and thick.
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Ill get some, kinda embarrassing. She's not dead yet.
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Ok, don't worry about failures, you are still new to this tillering thing.
I had a lot of failures early on in making bows. Still do once in a while.
Maybe on your next bow, don't put in so much reflex. Also Hickory is a very strong wood.
Were you at 20 inches on a long string?
When my bows are done, the outer 2/3rds of the limbs are flat at a 6.5" brace.
(http://i.imgur.com/ICVQVJ6.jpg) (https://imgur.com/ICVQVJ6)
Same bow at 32 inches on tree.
(http://i.imgur.com/OdEnLQ2.jpg) (https://imgur.com/OdEnLQ2)
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Was this bow symmetrical or asymmetrical?
This one picture a ways back doesn't look right, unless it's just the picture?
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Its the pic, it was perfectly symmetrical.
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Pictures Johnny..
Haha.
I don't want to pull you in a bunch of different directions. I'll just say that I find Roy's look straight to me at brace, and you don't have to make it bend in an arch. And 3/16" belly thickness is fine. I wouldn't think you'll run into trouble there until you get closer to 1/8".
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Johnny, tomorrow you are gonna have a smile on your face.
But I'm not sayen why..
:thumbsup:
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Roy, its 7:20 a.m. I aint smiling, I'm knee deep in chicken crap. That bow is toast, I got ticked off and started hacking away with the scraper, should have walked away. Oh well we shale try again.
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It's still early...
:thumbsup:
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Thanks Roy, how did you know I was almost outa beer?
What are the measurements? 66 long, 1.5 for 6 inches taper to half inch tips? 4 inch long 3/4 handle and 4 inch fades?
Backing strip? hickory 1/8th or bamboo? I can only get my boo to barely over an inch wide. I have one backing strip that's hickory but its 3/32nds
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I will start a new thread when I start, if it works ill donate it to the St. Jude thingy.
I'm smiling now.
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Yup on measurements.
I would buy a bamboo backing if I were you...
Hickory has caused you nothing but trouble.
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Hey, I have trouble getting osage too....not fair
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Ill get some boo.
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Will it still work if its not 1.5 wide? Those things are picky about width vs. thickness best I can tell.
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I make my flares 1 1/4" wide and hold that 1 1/4" width out 6 more inches, then straight taper to 1/2" at tips.
So the widest part on my bow is 1 1/4".
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John Echco archery sells all ready flattened bamboo backings for a reaseonable price never bought the pre flattened but the other boo I bought from them was awsome quality !
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Yeah Johnny, what kind of bamboo are you using and how are you preparing it?
Most bamboo I've working with comes in 2" slats and you have no problem at 1.5" width.
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Not sure of the type, but the two boo backed bows I made are still shooting great. Only thing is by the time its an 1/8th its an inch wide. If I try a lil harder I think I can squeeze 1 1/4.
Got two beautiful pieces awhile back, or so I thought. All the nodes were 12-13 inches apart, but the crown was so high I couldn't get much width from them. Gonna save them for experimental purposes, should work when I get some more Ipe.
Ill check out Echo.
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That's a good price for raw boo of good quality. Can you flatten that stuff with steam or do you have to sand it flat from the start?
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The stuff from echo is good. I bought a couple slats from them. No you won’t be able to steam it. Leave the flares on the boo a little thicker like .140” if you want to get more width.
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I do it on the jointer & belt sander and taper by hand but it could be done by hand too.
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Anyone selling bamboo to bowyers, as a 'bowyer supplier', SHOULD sell pieces from large diameter poles so that it's flat enough to easily get decent bow width at 1/8" thick. It should also be reasonably far between the nodes. Personally, I've had good luck taking my chances on the big auction site buying bundles of 25 or 50. Do a search on there for "natural bamboo slats". Often shipping can be had for free and they end up costing $5 a piece. Usually most or all of them are good quality. There might be one or two with a scratch or bruise I don't trust(we can grind it for a core), or a couple that are close between the nodes, but the vast majority of them have been fine and as good as those I've gotten from bowyer suppliers. Heck, that's probably where they get em :dunno:
I've made bamboo backed osage bows 70# at 1 1/8" wide.
Nodes should be 12" apart as a bare minimum. I don't know if I've ever made a bow with nodes as close together as 12". I prefer a lot farther.
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Thanks guys.
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Ok, I ordered a couple raw pieces from echo. Need to order some sinew and a scale from Mike and ill be good for a week or so.
Also had the guy down the road make me a pair of b. walnut core lams the same as these and a pair of 1/4 inch Lemon wood billets for the belly and ill back it with boo also. I will have 75 bucks in that one so ill practice some more with Roy's free stuff. :laughing: Just kidding, I'm sure this one will work out nicely.
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Ya mess up that Osage and I'll never talk to ya again...
LOL
:thumbsup:
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If it don't work I'm blaming it on the guy who designed it, which was not me. However, if it does work and I'm sure it will, it should also work out pretty good with lemon wood as a belly. I like that lemon wood, its just a lil pricey.