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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: arachnid on April 15, 2018, 03:17:40 PM
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Hi Guys.
Did anyone use an air hose form without the top part? i remember seeing such a form here some time ago (the guy
used a rop, I think, to secure the hose on the laminations and then he pumped the air).
Any pros/cons? I would think this kind of form would be more versatile, allowing more then one riser design.
Your thoughts?
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I did a kids bow to test it, and it worked ok, but the fades had a bit of glue line. I would double wrap the rope there because the rope is gonna stretch or at least get the slack out of it when you air up.
I used the braided poly rope like ski rope because I didn't think it would stretch, and it prob didn't.
I may try it again soon, forms are lighter to handle and if it works , it works!
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Thanks Kenny. Good to hear it works.
Building a double sided form seems like a pain in the butt....
Anyone else have some experience or thoughts?
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Met a bowyer in VT that uses a steel strap that he bends over his knee to match the profile of the form. His glue lines were good. Don't remember how he attached it to the form.
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I've experimented with this too.
I like a pneumatic form for the even distribution of pressure, but I think it's somewhat limiting. Also, they tend to be massive and I have only a small shop. I was debating using 1/8" (3mm) coated steel cable in place of the rope to avoid issues with stretching. Never got that far though.
I know I'm the odd man out here, but I honestly prefer clamps. The only downside to clamps is tightening them enough to get a good joint, but not so much that I squeeze all the glue out or dimple the fiberglass. I have it pretty well worked out now, but it took a while to get there.
Currently, I'm experimenting with using 1/8" steel pressure strips in place of the aluminum I currently use. This, coupled with C clamps modified by welding a nut in place of the cross handle will allow me to use a torque wrench to set them exactly the same without dimpling the fiberglass if I get carried away.
I'll let you guys know how it works out.
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I would like to see how you do your clamps. Most of mine are done with the rubber band system but I'm thinking of going to clamps.
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Here is a video if the link works.
https://www.facebook.com/RusticArcher/videos/1280048622140643/
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Link works fine and it's very informative. I like the versatility gained by not having to match a top form to a limited design. The rubber band method allows that as does your method and I'm sure that clamps are equally versatile.
Still rethinking My rubber band system. Clamps or your hose method would be adaptable to my forms.
Thanks for taking the time to do the video and post it.
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Mike - not my video. I believe it is Wade Morris from the rustic archer. He posts a lot of how to videos on FB. I have watched several for various ideas and remembered this one. I have never tried this method. My forms all have a top - but I do like the idea. I think a guy would have to be real careful on what you use for cordage. You would not want much stretch.
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thanks for posting video. I have a life time suppley of mule tape and will have to try this out. :goldtooth:
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A little off topic, but while we're on the subject of forms....
I did my first bows with the rubber band method and I found that surgical tubing seemed to work much better than cut up inner tubes.
I still use it on occasion for clamping grip overlays.
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Rock, send me some of that mule tape.
I wanna tape up ole KennyM..
Kenny Mule....
:laughing:
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You need to go ahead and put an inline air pressure regulator and preset it for the pressure you want. eliminates the checker gauge.
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Roy I imagine that would be something to see for sure. If ya promise to video it I will send the tape. :bigsmyl: :biglaugh:
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I promise...
LOL
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Thanks for posting that vid it simplifies things & cheaper !
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Arachnid, here's another way
"https://youtu.be/r_4cbfw8Q88"
Thanks Roy :thumbsup:
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Shore... :)
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Roy nd Mike
You boys are getting out of my comfort zone :laughing: :laughing:
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Ah heck Rock, don't tell me ya wouldn't get a chuckle out of ole Kenny being taped up wif mule tape?
:laughing:
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Ah heck Rock, don't tell me ya wouldn't get a chuckle out of ole Kenny being taped up wif mule tape?
:laughing:
Not sure mule tape would hold......he is from Missouri :biglaugh:
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Has any body here made one of these forms ,I'm making one but trying to figure out the best centers for the pegs I was thinking 1 1/2 in. or 2 in. ? [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
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I watched the vid again his look pretty far apart with metale but I was just going to use wood dowels so I was thinking closer together I'm also wondering if the sinew wrap that he uses wouldn't leave marks on the glass ?
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I use an air hose without a top form, but the air is going the wrong way. [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
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I use 7/16" oak dowels and I think they were 2 or 2.25 apart.
I did a dry run with a hose the other day and the dowels held just fine up to 50 psi. That's as high as I went cause all I had was a bicycle pump and I got tired. :)
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Ok Thanks Mike I appreciate it ,Kenny told me about drilling holes for temp wire ties to hold the limbs and riser instead of the sinew tie ,Im afraid the sinew would leave marks in the glass let me know how it works for you ?
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I use an air hose without a top form, but the air is going the wrong way.
Are you using a vacuum?? If so, There you go Dor... That would be the way to go...
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I thought the same thing about sinew, I have a bunch of it in the leather kit but it is pretty thick. I like the wire tie idea.
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I think the wire tie idea was Big Bobs, Kenny just told me about it ,I guess air the hose to 10 lb or so and when every thing settles & squeezes out cut them off and air up the rest of the way, I might throw a few washers on to keep every thing lined up to , I like the idea of the system you can change the riser design if you want not being fixed on one riser !
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Yeah, that's why I have been using rubber bands for a while now.
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Zip Ty’s , they are the new baling wire! :biglaugh:
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Can't wait to use some to fix my car! :)
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" Are you using a vacuum?? If so, There you go Dor... That would be the way to go..."
Yep
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Cool Beans... Do you put the whole form and such in a bag???
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I didn't quite got what you did... Did you put the form in a bag and sucked the air with a vacuum??
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Yep, everything gets assembled, placed on form in a tube or bag and sucked down tight. If you are making a Hill style, which I do mostly, you don't even need the bottom form.
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That is so cool!
Can you give in depth instructions on how to use this method?
Type of beg, all the process etc...
Will it work on R/D longbows?
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Im also interested in that method , how much vacum etc. if you have time please ?
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75# PSI
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I'm liking the looks of that, Mike! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
The weak spot when I did it was up the ramps just like with bands. Will be interested to see how yours works!
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That, there is some serious Bondage!
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I'll be pulling it in the morning soooo.... I'll be posting results and also a critique of what might be done better.
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Can't wait to see how it turns out! I really need to experiment with this idea myself.
Of course, the vacuum bag style Kung Fu is intriguing me as well.
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I'll be pulling it in the morning soooo.... I'll be posting results and also a critique of what might be done better.
This is how we all learn, by somebody posting how theirs worked!! :thumbsup:
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Monterey, what rope are you using to wrap the hose?
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Thanks Mike for posting, I like your ramp shims instead of the extra wraps I see the zip ties to , theres talkers & doers I better quit talking and get mine done like you 😊
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Mike if your still hanging around what drill bit size for those 7/16 dowels ??
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Questions answered: the rope is Paracord. It seems to have all the strength needed.
The drill:. Pretty sure it was a 7/16. The dowels were a light tap with a hammer fit. On other forms that weren't a tighter fit I have put a drop or two of titebond on them.
Hmmmm, I didn't do any shims anywhere. You might be looking at my cobbled up side guides? I guess that would be a shim. There are two on each side in the area of the riser to make sure it stays straight. Those guides are the same ones I used for the rubber band system except I shortened them and rounded them off. These would be better made of metal for sure.
So, I'm calling this a success. The glue lines are good everywhere. These are pretty steep. They rise from zero to 1.75" over a length of five inches. The glass and a .030 parralel are all that runs up the belly side of the riser. I have previously built with thick butted tapers running up the ramps and know that they can be problematic with any pressure system unless it is perfect.
For a pressure strip I used a full length strip of galvanized sheet metal gotten from Bingham 26 year ago.
The zip ties are ideal for this process. I pulled them very tight and was able to position the side shims perfectly when the ties were pulled tight and was able to wrap the hose down without anything skittering around.
I put ten pounds of pressure on hose and cut and pulled the ties. I overlooked one which my sharp eyed grandson spotted after airing to 75# and we were able to cut and pull it but I suggest pulling them at low pressure!
Here's some pictures.
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Some things learned.
The dowels are 2.5" apart. A bit closer together would probably be better.
You need to get ALL the air out of the hose.
You need to keep the hose carefully centered and not allow it to extend more over either side.
You need to pull the hose down tight against the layup. You are simulating a top form with a minimal gap.
So that's it for now. Happy to answer any questions and hear all suggestions.
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Cool every thing looks great I took a second look between my tired eyes and my old ipad2 it look like fade shims...lol I'm glad you where the pioneer I will drill mine at 2 in. Centers , Mike did you wrap your zip ties over the pressure strips or just the limbs ? My fades are pretty shallow but it's good to know it works good for steeper ramps like yours ! Now all I need is some time to finish it.
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The ties went on before the pressure strip.
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The ties went on before the pressure strip.
I would’ve thought over the pressure strip.
Would probably be easier to remove. Also probably wouldn’t hurt anything if you accidentally left one on.
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Nice job Mike!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:And thanks for all the info shared!! :notworthy:
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I'm going to try that mule tape he mentioned in the vid ,I found a 300 ft spool on the big A site , hey Mike was there any reason why you didn't do the zig zag shoe string wrap like in the vid ? Thanks for all the pioneer work !
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Hmmmm, I thought what I did was zig zag.
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I think on the vid he went back and Chris crossed back so it was more covered but no big deal yours worked fine I was just asking.
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Looks like that worked great. Thanks for the pics.
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Have not seen many Bow's without sexy curves, around here. Your glue lines look perfect!
How long did it take to truss it up?
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I trussed it in about five minutes once the ties were in place. Much faster than rubber bands and much cleaner also. I might get a larger diameter hose for 1.75 and 2 inch lay ups.
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Got my spool of the mule tape he showed in the video its like a super strong flat rope no strech I can think of a lot of uses for this stuff beside the form it should lay flat against the hose its 5/8 '' [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
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Hi Guys.
Did anyone use an air hose form without the top part? i remember seeing such a form here some time ago (the guy
used a rop, I think, to secure the hose on the laminations and then he pumped the air).
Any pros/cons? I would think this kind of form would be more versatile, allowing more then one riser design.
Your thoughts?
Trux Turning did that for his riser overlays with out the form.
That may be what you saw. :dunno:
That Mule tape looks good ;)
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Got a couple hours after work to work on this form I drilled the centers at 2 in. at Monterey's sugestion looks like it should work well ,I didnt have a decent 7/16 '' drill bit so I went with 1/2 '' dowels , Im going to try to get it finished up tomorrow ! Done
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Wow! That bow is going to have some crazy sexy curves! I like it!
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I got a chance to try my form out Saturday , just a couple issues I had ,I broke a hard wood dowel durning one of the dry runs & 3 more during glue up but wraped around the form to save it no issue glue up turned out fine ,but Im going to replace them with metal dowels ,I also left the zip ties in place over the metal pressure strips tell cure with no problems ,I used the 5/8 mule tape that has zero flex , but over all this system is quick I like it !
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Very nice! Thanks for sharing
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Looks great!
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Looking Good Brudda...
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I got an idea for you guys that want to go topless... On a 1 1/2" wide form, why don't you cut a piece of wood 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" to conform to the top shape of your form and round off the top of it... You will need way less wraps and you will have a more even pressure on the lams being glued... I might even try this myself...
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I got an idea for you guys that want to go topless... On a 1 1/2" wide form, why don't you cut a piece of wood 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" to conform to the top shape of your form and round off the top of it... You will need way less wraps and you will have a more even pressure on the lams being glued... I might even try this myself...
I see what you mean about creating a top piece to apply a more even pressure, however I believe the idea was to not have to make a top piece that conforms to the fades and riser area.
This hose wrapping technique gives the freedom of not having to make the top and allows for different riser designs without having to change a thing.
It is also less to store and mess with during glue up.
The hose will apply equal pressure as long as it is wrapped appropriately.
I see it as an improvement to the old band method.
I am going to give it a try on the HH I have neglected to build over the last 5 years. Building the form was one of the major reasons I just never got motivated to do it, this changes that for me.
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I like the simplicity of this form 5-6 hrs you have a form the wraps work great however with a curvy form like mine the pegs are taking compound stresses as they broke at different angles so the only mod Im making is re doing the pegs with metal ones the wraps as is keep every thing even pressure wise & its totally versital as far as riser design ! I like it just working out the bugs.
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I'm going to get some mule tape to replace the Paracord.
Thanks for a good follow up. How much pressure were you using when the dowels broke?
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I was using 70 psi that curvy form really puts presure on them in a lot of different directions but Im going to get some axle stock and some exact fit washers and glue them as guides over the holes that way I can take the pegs in and out as needed !
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Good idea. I have been getting by with no breaks running 60#. If I start having trouble I'll do as you are describing.
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If there is no issue Mike then I wouldn't worry about it but I will say this the mule tape is like cloth cable it doesent stretch at all so I used the bike pump to air up slow not to put to much stress on the pegs , but one thing I really like is being able to leave the zip ties over the presure strips ,I tested it a bunch before doing it those metal strips are thick enough to not let the zip tie dimple the glass and every thing is locked in solid the center line stayed put with no slippage , you where the pioneer, I'm just exploring deeper in the forest...lol
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I too gave "topless" a try on my last bow. Any new forms I build I will go this route. Rather than wood dowels, I just used some 5" 1/2" bolts. They worked fine.
I like the profile of that bow Ritchie. How far in front of the riser are those tips going to end up?
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Im glad it worked out for you Mitch , I dont know on the reflex yet, I left the lams full length to see what the longest realistic bow out of the form I could get, but this one is Im shooting for 64 '' so Im guessing 2 1/2 '' to 3'' at the knocks its going to have some awsome early draw weight if it flys ,This one I might leave full width for stability ! [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
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Wide might be a good idea, but if it lines up straight I bet you will be alright - looking forward to seeing it at brace and full draw.
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When dealing with an unknown test bow, I start wide and narrow as needed depending on strung profile..
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The 60 in. one I side tillered pretty narrow below 1 3/8 '' this one Im leaving at 1 1/2 and extending the center farther out before width taper that should give at least 1/8 '' more on the whole working limb to start , I will discuss it with the designer before doing any thing....lol I went to great pains to make sure every thing is symetrical and the pic is deceptive that bow blank is setting at 70'' for now , Kenny didnt carry stable core at the time I got my lams the next one will defiantly have it and get more radical ! A 66-68 '' would have crazy reflex !
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Hey folks,
I'm hoping that my brother can give me the Mule Tape that I will need for this project, he's an Electrician. Can someone tell me how many feet of Mule Tape to ask for. I'm building a 64" D/R bow. I don't want to end up short and I don't expect my brother to hand over 300', well we're not that close.
Thanks
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Every form is different and in my case I back wraped the whole form and made extra lengths for the riser and back up pieces but I would say I probably used 140-150 ft. Better to have to many lengths during glueing up then to little ! There are different widths mule tape mine was 5/8 ''
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Thanks Yellowwood,
I'm looking at 3/8" mule tape. I'll ask for 150' and have some paracord on hand just incase that isn't enough mule tape. I'll let folks know how it turns out once I get my form built.
-Tim Y
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Your welcome glad I could help post as you go you will be fine with what your getting !
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Monterey, did you use paracord?
How does it work?
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Para
cord may stretch too much.
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The mule tape has no stretch in it after initial stretch it's impressive stuff ,I'm making a T handle & some of it to pull dear out of the woods to the trail it's like cloth strapings it's weaved in all directions , it would cover more of the hose vs the para cord I'm sure the para cord would work to but would probably stretch some !
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The Paracord didn't seem to stretch. If it's tied down tight it should be ok. Tied tight, all the air squeezed out of the hose and hose layed down centered seemed to be the most important aspects. I'm thinking of getting some mule tape but will be doing at least one more bow with the Paracord.
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Just to let you guys know on this thread using the wood dowels @ 70 psi and breaking them at glue up was voodoo for me ,I thought the bow would be ok but had a glue line failure as a result , so my school of hard knocks suggestion to any body making one of these go metal ,I'm redoing with metal before the next glue up will let you know !
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70 PSI...?? :o Why...?? What is your school of thought on such a high psi?? Plus if you are putting it in an oven the air can expand and cause even more pressure....
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I use that method when putting the bamboo on my bamboo backed laminated bows. It works fine for me. I have dozens of bow strings that I've collected over the years. I use these for the rope, no stretch and they have a loop on the end to hook on the pegs. If covered in saran wrap first I don't get glue on my strings and can still use them for tillering later.
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Shredd thats the psi that was recomended to me from a friend ,Im not locked in stone on it ,whats every else using ? Real good on your bow strings Mark.
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I use 65-70 PSI also and 170 deg F
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I run 70 , always have with good results. Not gonna change now.. LOL Besides, I like to hear the form pop and groan when I air it to 70... :laughing:
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I am thinking Elmont recommends 70. I am 65-70
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I'm 70.
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Well there you go... Your all nuts.... :biglaugh:
I do 35- 40.... I am not gonna get into it... Talked about that stuff enough already... We all have our reasons and if it works for you then you are good to go...
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35-40?
Ya best gets yer self ah new air compressor son...
Dat ones gotta ah leak...
:wavey:
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Nah... Just need some new duct tape... The tape on my air hose is getting old... :laugh:
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I'm 70.
:laughing: :laughing:
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This is the form I should have made the first time , I made the pegs in the riser & ramp section longer for exstra wraps in that area if time works out should be able to test this one next week end ! [ You are not allowed to view attachments ] [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
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Felt like 80 this morning.
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I glued up my current bow with the modified form it worked great snuged up the mule tape like Monty sugested every thing looks good ! [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
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Yeah that looking real good.
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I have mentioned this in other threads so I figured I would come back here and up date my form tests so others can avoid the problems ,this glue up with the form resulted in tight glue lines but using the .030 pressure strip is to thin, it allowed the hose to put a slight cupping in the limbs it ended up being a non issue when I narrowed the limbs but for bow 3 coming soon off this form I'm going with a .065 or thicker aluminum pressure strip ,hopefully that will solve the issue !
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That's a well timed heads up for me. I was thinking of going to a soft rubber pressure strip but now I'm going back to an idea that popped into my mind earlier. I'll show it off when I know if it works. No point giving Ole Roy any ammo. :)
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Well I'm glad I posted then, this form has been a real evolution in solving issues but think bow 3 should have it solved I hope :)
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Got the 3rd test bow off the form & the limbs are flat with no issues , I tried the the thicker pressure strip during a dry run & didn't like it ,I didn't have a good feeling with how it was working in the fades , so I thought it out and went back to the .030 pressure strip but added many more straps after pulling the hose down as tight as I could , it almost completely inclosed the hose in a cocoon, it works good now , I think it's putting more even pressure now.
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trying to learn here, but for those of you that have gone the topless route ;)
what is the motivation?
is it to save time and materials, and not have to make a top, or is it for increased versatility with the form?
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I can only speak to why I did it but in hind sight it would have been a lot eaiser & cheaper to build the topped form but I wanted a form where I could exsperment with one peace riser design, but if I knew what I know now it would be easy to
make another , Im just posting to save others time & trouble or maybe somebody will find something else that I missed but I have to say I really like it now the bugs are out !
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I thought about making one for youth bows (straight/flat hill style) that way you could do several sizes. One thing that has stopped me has been that the form with a top appears to give you the ability to see glue lines much easier while adding air pressure.
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I use the zip tie method prior to the straps so no worries about the limbs or riser slipping & I air up incrementally also you can still see between the posts you could probably make a strait form of one of these in under 2 hrs you could just wrap around the form no need for posts, at one point I was almost going to cut dado channels every in. or so on the botom of the form and wrap around the form it would have worked but it would have used a lot more mule tape but with a strait form not that much ,Im going to eventualy make one for a HH bow that way !
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trying to learn here, but for those of you that have gone the topless route ;)
what is the motivation?
is it to save time and materials, and not have to make a top, or is it for increased versatility with the form?
For me, it is the versatility. I had three ASL forms with tops that I could see would be more versatile in the the length and shaping of the riser. I had been using rubber bands on several forms but using the topless air hose is far simpler, faster and gives better glue lines. At this point I have four topless ASL forms and will convert my RD form before the next layup.
My work areas are all unheated so this is the time of year to mess with forms which I will be doing for the next couple months.
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Why not just drill 2” holes in the form and use clamps with a rubber backed backed pressure strips. I use old belting for my pads with a .030” S.S. Pressure strip. I glue the belting to the strip.
You can adjust pressure where you need it.
They built a lot of bows this way in the past and it is a time proven method that is still used by many Bowyers still.
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thanks for posting this all the info was great
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I think its a versatile way to experiment with different riser shapes and lengths, when you find what you like you can just make a top form for it, and or still experiment with other riser designs if you like.
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I think a big plus for this form would be for guys that make the ASL type bows with varying riser lengths, for me Im a fixed center just can change riser depth and shape !
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Gary I used to use clamps and a rubber strip but once I tried the fire hose method I'll probably never go back to clamps.