Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Exiled_Archer on April 08, 2018, 08:56:11 PM
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So I had some leftover red oak from kids bow. Bought this board cuz the grain was so dog gone perfect.
Gonna try for a reverse handle short bow. It may break since I'm only going to tiller in the curve. We will see. Might throw some backing on it for insurance but I might also flip the tips just to be dangerous....hmmmm
48" t2t. 1.5 @ fades. 1" @ tips. 20-22" draw
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Guess I'll throw the first nights picture in.
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I like the way you think. :thumbsup:
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Hey if anyone looks at this, I need some input please.
So I was thinking that by putting a reverse handle, I could reduce some of the stress on the bow that a handle would cause and still out one there.
My concern is popping that handle off. I'm going to tiller past the riser so it shouldn't bend, but there's still a concern there. Anyone got experience with reverse handle?
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So what are you calling a reverse handle? You are putting the riser block on the back instead of the belly?
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Yah. Trying to reduce limb travel even if it's ever so slightly
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These types of bows are not something that I know much about but would it be possible that a reverse glued handle might also be subject to popping off?
It would seem that if you are going to tiller to prevent it popping that you could do the same thing to a belly handle?
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Maybe my reasoning is bad, but for some reason I'm thinking that the bow slightly bending away from the riser would be worse than bending slightly onto the riser.
Or is there virtually no difference and I'm making it up? Lol
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That wouldn't reduce the stress anymore than if it was glued on the belly. And you said it wasn't bending in that area anyway so if there's no bend, you're not helping your working length any.
It would be likely to pop off if there's any bending in that area at all. The amount of tension on that joint would be very large.
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Well if I put the riser on the belly, I'm pushing the limbs further away from my string and so increasing load on the limbs.
But your right, if it bends it'll pop regardless of where it's at.
We'll see what happens. I should have it tillered (or broken) this evening, or at least close to it. I'll give an update
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Oh I see what you are after. Keep in mind that most of those have a continuous backing or lam that ties the riser and limbs together and covers the glue joint. It could work if you make sure it isn't bending at the joint.
You have opposing forces helping you with a riser glued on the belly.
Both sides of the riser want to pop off and there's no opposition when the riser is glued to the back and the bow is bent.
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So after much deliberation, I decided to put the handle on the belly and go with it.
I chased a jacked up tiller on the right limg for most of this build. I put a hinge at the fade very early on and just worked the whole time trying to cure it. You can still see the tips aren't bending like I want.
However I did manage to get 45# @ 23".
Only cuz it stacked like crazy after 21. Lol
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There it is in all it's shorty glory
I think I heard a crack on the last pull...but it could've been the string grooves, they're rough.
In the end I've got 2.5" of set, 46.5" ntn. 45# @ 23
And it shot 10 arrows, so she's officially a bow.
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Good job making do with the materials you have on hand. Very cool little bow. I hope it holds up for you but watch it closely the 1st couple hundred shots. You may be pushing the limits of the wood right out of the fades.
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Yah, I had trouble in the beginning and I was trying to draw the tiller out to the tips. That's about as far as I could get it before I turned it into another kids bow
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Excellent job! I love people who push the limits. Don't take this the wrong way but Id wear safety glasses anytime that bow is braced if I were you. Red oak is like a teen age daughter, their know to blow up on ya out of the blue for no apparent reason what so ever. :thumbsup:
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Thanks john. I know what you mean, I was nervous with each pull.
I actually really liked the way it shot. No hand shock, felt good in the hand. No Chrono, but whatever, I enjoyed it.
I think I'll try another one with some better wood. I'm kind of intrigued by this short bow design.
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I've been wanting to try a shorty, just haven't got the courage up yet. Got some maple and hickory so I might do it in the near future.
If you got the right piece of oak, that bow might last for years.
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I want to do a tri lam, so this might be the design ingo with, except I may throw in a little deflex/reflex or flip the tips if I go that route
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