I am having a terrible problem with finger pinch. I have shot three fingers under with my index finger in the corner of my mouth most of my life and have recently chaned to split finger with middle finger in the corner of my mouth.
I shot equally well both ways I believe but was told that I could learn to shoot better split finger.
My bows are 64" longbow's and I am not interrested in going any longer (I draw about 28.5"). I am however contemplating switching back to three under.
any ideas would be helpful, BigJim
go back....why fix it if it isn't broken?
You must have huge fingers! :eek: It's kinda unusual to be getting finger pinch with that long a bow & that short a draw? I have fairly big hands & draw 30" & have no trouble on any of my bows from 64" down to 52"! know that's no real help, but I'm wondering if there isn't something else causing a problem, rather than finger-pinch...
You don't have finger pinch... I do it every time I shoot to much... Your squeezing your fingers.try putting just a little bit more pressure on the pointer finger.
But like someone else said, why fix something that isn't broke.
What's pinching? Are you feeling more pressure on the top of the index finger or the bottom of the ring finger? Since you're actually moving your hand up on the string going from three under to split finger, I'll assume it's the top finger, because the string angle on your ring finger would be less with split finger. It may be a matter of just toughening up the finger a little through shooting. It's just not used to feeling the string pressure there.
Most folks who shoot three under anchor much higher than you do/did -- high up on the side of their cheek and do what is called barrel sighting, i.e., looking down the arrow. This works very well for close range shooting, but not very well for farther range shooting. In this instance, moving to split finger usually involves the concommitant move to anchoring lower on the face near the corner of one's mouth. This has the effect of lowering the "rear site" and contributing to longer range accuracy.
However, since you already held pretty low with your three under hold, there's probably not much to be gained by going to split fingers.
If your finger keeps hurting, and you don't see any improvement in your accuracy or shooting comfort, I agree with the others. Don't change.
Which fingers are hurting?
Man, never heard of anyone getting pinch from a bow that long and a draw that short. Could be you are putting pressure on your fingers in an odd way because of the switch in shooting style.
I will elaborate more. I switched to split finger about last July and didn't have any problem until I started upping the weight of my bows.
My lightest poundage bow is 77lbs and they go to 90lbs. It has been mentioned that I probably wouldn't have had any problems if I didn't shoot so much weight.
Well, Just as I won't change to a longer bow, I won't change to a lighter one either.
I didn't notice any problems with my 67#. I broke it however and saw no need in going back to that weight.
As far as not shooting enough, and toughening up my fingers, what is enough?
I will shoot several hundred arrows at a time, most of the time when I shoot.
The problem is with my pointer finger. It stays bruised where it touches the nock (at the edge of my fingernail).
Thank you for your help, BigJim
It is possible that your drawing elbow is a bit high, causing you to put excessive pressure downward on the top finger against the nock. It's not finger pinch, per se, but your own personal shooting style that's causing you pain. Might be that pulling that much weight caused you to enlist muscles other than your back muscles to pull it; you might have too much tension in the forearm, shoulder, and bicep muscles, causing your elbow to be high and thus pressing your index finger down on the nock. This is just my best guess without seeing you shoot. Good luck, hope everything clears up. Paul.
Good advice from diamond paul. Also, if you're using a brass nock, might consider switching to a wrapped thread knock. If you haven't already tried one, try a heavy glove like an American Leathers Big Shot. Frankly, at the weight you're pulling, I think you just have to expect some finger pain, particularly when you shoot a few hundred arrows at a time. Good luck.
perhaps a finger tab with a thicker finger spreader...
Maybe "Big Jim" is just a scranny little guy! With little whimpey fingers!
Not sure what finger pinch is but I've developed blisters and callous on my index finger shooting split.
I try to use a deep hook and the problem still remains.
I was studying the makeup of my hand today after excesive shooting and noticed something quite peculiar.
Had an accident years ago as a meat cutter and damaged the index finger of my draw hand. I noticed when looking at my fingers that the first knuckle of the index finger when curled up, actually matches up in line with the 2nd and 3rd finger 2nd knuckle. I've decided to do some experimenting tomorrow and see what the results are.
I may change my draw because excessive tork on some shots has been a problem.
You could be twisting the finger into the arrow like I caught myself doing years back. I found it hurt like crazy for the first dozen arrows then not so much and after a couple hundred shots it came back so bad I had to quit. I need to make sure of my finger loads, equal with index and ring finger and make sure my drawing hand is as square to the string as is comfortable. I haven't had a problem with it in twenty years since I changed. I also get cleaner arrow flight and more arrow speed with the powered up right hand.
Try this. I've been an archery instructor for many years teaching both classic target archery and traditional,{instinctive}. Emphasize pulling with the middle finger. It doesn't matter whether you anchor with the index or the middle finger. The middle finger should do 90% of the pulling with the index and the ring fingers, although assiting, basically "going along for the ride".
Also concentrate on pulling with the elbow, straight back. At anchor, there should be a straight, continuous line from the tip of the arrow to the tip of your elbow.
When you get to your anchor point, move the elbow slightly toward your back.{back tension}.
This allows you to pull through the shot. Relax the muscles in the drawing hand. The string should escape and move through your fingers as if they were smoke. Follow through: the hand comes back and stops over the shoulder.{dynamic release}.The bow arm stays solid and on target.{the shot isn't over untill the arrow is in the target}. I hope this helps. With your rig you should not be experiencing finger pinch.
Nutmeg,experimenting with what you just said, i find that my final move in the sequence is bow arm toward the target, not dropping or rising only pointing left hand at the target as the string is released.
Bowferd, I,m not sure what you mean. can you elaborate?
Yes. I cut a tendon on the top index finger in my right hand some 25 years ago. It still bends after being repaired but only to meet up with the 2nd knuckle of my 3rd and 4th finger. So when trying to use a full hook on draw I've noticed that if I should decide to, the only way to achieve maximum pull from the top would be to hook the string around the 2nd joint in fingers #3 and #4.
Although this may result in what might be an unorthodox way to pull and release, I think I may have to try it.
Chances are that I will develop blisters on the fingertips of #3 & #4.
I've got a couple short bows. One pinches my fingers, the other doesn't. I used to think that the difference was due to their draw weight -- in other words, they both pinched but I noticed the problem with the heavier bow more.
Then someone explained the difference that riser height made and the light went on. Hmm...
A couple of things I forget to add. Keep the bow arm shoulder pointed at the target. Do not roll the shoulder.{don't allow it to roll up toward the face or ear}. Do not lock{hyper extend}, the bow arm. Rather, rotate it outward. If you're experiencing string slap you're not doing this correctly. If done correctly you won't need an arm guard.{execpt to keeep bowhunting clothes sleeves away from the string}. BTW, to Bowferd; the movement of the bow and the bow arm for a right handed shooter is down and to the left. Like recoil. Your job is to hold the bow on target as steady as possible. Also, don't choke the handle to death as if you were holding a rattlesnake in your hand. A light relaxed grip is the way to go. {like you have an egg in your hand}. White knuckling the handle the grip causes torque and emphasizes the drop off to the left{for a right handed shooter}.
If you have a glove with seams on the sides of the fingers it can cause this.
I don't know what kind of glove your using, but one with the seams on the top, or near the top may eliminate your problem.
BigJim, I'm not trying to jump in on your post. Good question and great answers. Let's keep this one on top for a while.
Rich, I have a tendency to grab on and hold like a fierce wind is blowing. But I do concentrate on relaxing my holding hand to the point of thumb and saddle only. The fingers of the left are only there for balance. Of course the heavier the bow the harder that principle is to achieve.
And I use a glove on both hands. Got a piece of feather quill in my holding hand one time and it festered and raised cain.
I've cut my left hand on numerous occasions with just a itty bitty feather.
I vote on dropping back to 67#. You can kill anything up to moose with it. Good luck guy !
One other thing I'd like to add. I see this all the time in my classes. Many guys,(even large,linebacker types), are simply overbowed; pulling too much weight. You'd be amazed what dropping down in draw weight does for form, accuracy and comfort. Shooting a bow is supposed to be fun and a pleasant activity. If you'er wrestling with your bow every time you draw it back you're short changing yourself. Yes Danny, 67# will certainly kill a moose but, 55#-60# will get the job done quite nicely.
Thank you for your advice. I have gone through some of these questions before on another web and have checked time and again several of the posibilities suggested by having my wife observe my shooting.
I draw with my arm straight in line with the arrow. I hit anchor but release instinctively as i'm going through. my hand and arm continuing back because of the release. I don't struggle with the weight contrary to the popular belief of many people who have never seen or met me.
I find 80 pound bows to shoot comfortly and lesser bows to feel like youth bows. If they weren't comfortable I would shoot less poundage. I hunt all over the world and my personal accuracy is important to me. Besides, tuning arrows for heavy poundage is a bitch and not worth it if I didn't shoot heavier bows better. Danny, won't a 80# bow kill a moose too?
Back to the subject. I haven't tried concentrating on emphasizing my middle finger (I mean while I draw)Maybe this will help.
As far as bow handle, all of my bows have had the same handle. I shoot an american leathers glove that I had custom made for me with leather finger pads instead of nylon and it works much better than before but I do think the seams may be part of the problem. I don't lock my arm. Never use a arm guard unless hunting.
I will try some more Ideas and then I will just go back to three under if necessary.
Danny, I'm not upset or anything, but just trying to prove a point. If you don't mind, what poundage do you shoot best? How old are you? What do you do for a living? What size coat/chest?
I am 40 years old, weigh 300lbs with only a beer gut. I have a 54" chest and am 6'3".(this is why they call me big Jim) Most people who condem me for shooting higher poundage are average in stature and shoot about 55#'s. If I am twice their size shouldn't I be able to shoot a few more pounds. And what is the problem if I can. It certainly won't tear the animals up more.
I talk too much, BigggggJim
Right on, Big Jim. Given your size, I have no doubt that 80#-90# feels comfortable for you. I've always been a heavy bow advocate. I'm about 2/3 your size and shoot bows about 2/3 your poundage. As I said before, though, the heavy weight can play hell with one's fingers. Other than a heavy glove, good form, and perhaps a thread nock point, I don't know what else to recommend. Hope some of this stuff works for you.
Orion- thanks for your help. I switched to a string nock a little while back and don't know if it helped or not because the problem still exists. It does come and go though. Mostly goes away after a break in shooting for a little while(one or two sesions a week) and comes back after extended shooting(4 to 6 times a week).
Thanks, BigJim
I have met Big Jim. I call him Brutus!He is a very BIG man. His sense of humor is also very BIG. He is a very nice guy too!