ive been thinking about wrapping some thin thread about six or seven inches like a flyrod from the tip end, and i think that i have enough room with my broadhead ferrule that i could actualy do a second or third layer but a bit shorter like a taper.
the questions i have are what kind of glue for the thread and what kind of final finish over the top. oh yeah what kind of thread might have some weight. i would rather have most of the weight in the thread and not in the glue, it would be a little more consitant.
i was thinking some rod building varnish just to wet the threads and poly on top.
what do you all think
I have seen leaded fishing line have you thought about a heavier broadhead
Fly shops have the leaded leaders, that might work, and yeah, I agree poly over the top.
Cortland do a lead core line called Kerboom (you'll know why if you try casting the stuff!) that would do the trick.
I have added weight to field points by melting air rifle pellets in them- you should be able to add about 50 grains this way before you run out of space inside the head. Though I haven't tried it you could also add more weight by drilling a small hole down the centre of the shaft, and hiding some more more lead down there. Would require accurate drilling, though.
But with Ace archery making a 200 grain head, you'll have to decide if it's all worth it.
Melting split shot right in the broadhead works well and is easy to work with too.
I've been doing the melted lead way to add 45gr. Works great, the weight is balanced nicely and the arrows all weigh the same.
if using 11/32" shafts, try a 2.3-3" 2315 XX75 shaft. Then add a 2.5" piece of shaft or insert. Plus You can still melt a split shot, if using the wood shaft on the front part, taper shaft.
Might get yelled at for this...I was shooting yesterday with a buddy who had hardwood footed arrows, a few had wood screw in adapters(50 grn) with his judo/field tips. Those things buried into the 3d's compared to the rest of our arrows. They werent that ugly either. Just throwing another option out there.
I think your wrapping will come apart sooner or later no mater what glue or finish you use. I would use a couple split shot in the point or just a heavier point. The next way would be to foot the shaft with a piece of maple or other heavy wood.
would boring a hole in the end and inserting a nail add weight and strength, as long as it were back far enough as to not destroy your taper tool?
just weighed some bright finish, a 6 penny finish averages about 25 gr. and a 10 penny finish averages about 50 gr.
The problem with boring a hole 2 or 3 inches in the arrow for a nail is keeping it straight and in the center. Not al that easy to do
Wrapping your arrow near the tip with two or three layers of thread won't add but 10-20 grains, hardly worth doing. I've done some experimenting with an internal metal foot, i.e., nail, steel rod. Can add more than 100 grains that way. I'll talk about it in another post.
i used some fake sinew, wraped about 4 inches, the thread weighed 20 grains. so if i did six inches, and another at four i would get 50 and i bet it would toughen it up a litte. not to mention it kinda looks cool