Can anyone help me answer a few questions regarding a shagbark hickory tree I was hoping to harvest on my property for a future stickbow? I'm waiting on a few books that may answer these questions but in the interim I thought I would post these questions.
1. What is the ideal time to cut hickory (or other northern trees) for use of future stickbows? I know that the tree stores sap in the roots during the winter...still very cold in Buffalo so maybe the sap is still in the roots (and does it matter anyway)?
2. What would be the minimum diameter of a hickory tree that would still work for a stickbow? The smaller hickory trees (8-10" diameter) I have growing in a stand of very large trees appear to be straight and without lower branches.
3. How long should the log sit before I split it into staves?
4. I read that there are many different products that can be applied to the stave to inhibit checking...at this time I do not have any of those products. If I purchase a product for this purpose, what would be the best sealant to use?
Thanks!
Dino
Dino, I'll do my best to answer your questions.
1. In the winter (while the sap is in the roots) a felled tree splits (staves) out very easily, but the bark does not strip off as easily. I prefer to harvest in the winter because of this fact.
2. Eight to ten inch diameter trees will work well for staves (probably four) unless you are looking to make heartwood bows. I have made several heartwood bows from shagbark hickory and have found their performance excellent.
3. You can let the log sit just long enough to retrieve your sledge and wedges from the truck. If you harvest the tree soon it will split easily and will probably need only two or three wedges. Later.... well I've used six and more wedges before.
4. Seal the ends with any of the following: shellac, polyurethane, ext. grade wood glue, parrifin wax. You will need to spray or brush the former producst on the ends, but dip the ends in the wax. I have an old rice cooker that I keep two thirds full of parrifin wax and dip the stave ends in that. I also stack all my staves in an empty grain bin which seems to accelerate the drying process.
Good luck on the harvest of your hickory. I will look forward to seeing the pictures posted on this forum.
:bigsmyl:
-Brett
Hi Dino,
I'm pretty new to this, as well, but I've done a lot of reading.
1. I've read that near the end of summer is best (but not necessary) because, at that time, there is a full "latewood" growth ring and the bark is (somewhat) easily peeled off. The outside layer of wood makes a great bow-back (typically). I did this last August and found that the outside of the tree was extremely porous and the wood was not very good. I shaved down several inches into the tree and found good wood. From what I've read, this is an exception, and typically cutting it near the end of the summer and peeling bark back is a great way of ensuring a good bow back. But I think everyone will tell you that you can cut at anytime of the year... there just might be a little more work de-barking and shaving down to a solid growth ring for the back.
2. Don't know, but I know that there a LOT of bows made with trees less than 10" in diameter.
3. Split immediately into staves and keep the wood covered and off the ground.
4. I'm not sure. I used some old paint that had, more or less, congealed too much to use in the house. I think you're just looking for anything to seal well enough to prevent rapid moisture loss in these areas.
Thanks for the help guys! I'm really anxious so I'm going to chop the tree down...hope it is in fact a hickory...bark looks like similar to my know hickory's but no leaves to confirm! If I use an axe, should I make the ends flat with a saw or can leave the ends as-is as long as I cover them completely with a sealant? I can use a saw to cut the tree down but thought it would be more "traditional" to use my new axe.
Thanks again!
Dino
Personally I would rather use a powersaw.There isn't as much chance of a larger tree falling before it is cut through and splitting out on the way down.
I like to peal the bark on mine right away and keep them inside the house.Inside gives me the best control.If you let the sun shine on them they are likely to check.Under a tarp they could mold.In a shed bugs could get to them.Seal as mentioned above a quick as possible.
Regarding sealing the ends...is the reasoning that the moisture escapes slower through the bark area and freshly split area then the sealed two ends which in turn prevents checking? :knothead: The first bow (and only so far) I made was from an Osage blank that was completely covered with a sealant...if I take the bark off should I seal the entire stave? Again, my bow making books are on the way but I cannot wait!
Thanks again for the help!
Dino
The best time to harvest hickory in my opinion is during the early growing season. The bark slips easily and whats under it is the back of your bow. I have heard to cut the tree when the leaves are almost all the way out but I think you can do it sooner. Some like to cut late in the growing season because the new ring has been laid down. I prefer early in the season so my back ring is last years ring and has time ti mature over the winter.
Anything from 2" and over will make a hunting weight bow.
Split the log immediately, remove the bark and seal the back and ends. Store the wood in a cool dry place. You can remove a stave from it, reduce it to almost bow size, strap it to a form to keep it from twisting and give it a few months and it will be ready to complete.
I prefer spray shellac to seal the ends and the de-barked back. Some like carpenter's glue or melted wax or even spray paint. Pat
I have found my favorite time to cut a hickory is just when the leaves are starting to bud. Sap is rising fast at this time. The bark slips off easy. Good luck !
Dino,
If you can find PIGNUT Hickory you might want to give it a try as well,it is tough stuff and easy to work with.
Get the bark off once you harvest it !!
Tom