Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Nathan Shaw on March 16, 2018, 10:30:00 AM
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Well, I recently finished my first Osage selfbow and instead of enjoying the fruits of my labor when I was done, I was on the hunt for the next bow. So, it just so happened a guy at work had a big ol’ Osage tree fall that was big and straight. I got the majority split into staves and sealed (wood glue) and now will have to wait until it dries. I am estimating approximately 20 +/- possible bows in this pile. It’s going to be a long year!
I also made a shave horse while I was motivated.
Nathan
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u427/shawnathanns/F7B618FC-6FFD-42DB-86D8-3DA04116B409_zps25gtxrjp.jpeg) (http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/shawnathanns/media/F7B618FC-6FFD-42DB-86D8-3DA04116B409_zps25gtxrjp.jpeg.html)
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u427/shawnathanns/E81F8745-35C7-454B-A2A4-8D69BF8701CE_zpswnnndtap.jpeg) (http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/shawnathanns/media/E81F8745-35C7-454B-A2A4-8D69BF8701CE_zpswnnndtap.jpeg.html)
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Nice haul!
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Thanks. If I was going to be honest it was a lot more work getting these to this stage than I anticipated. All hand tools were used with the exception of the chainsaw to cut the trunk into 70-80” sections.
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I'd suggest taking the bark and sapwood off your stash. If you don't It will invite bugs and checks as it dries. Its a lot of work, but worth it when you are done.
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I agree with Pearlie. It would be a shame to loose it all to bugs.
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I would hose them down with Malathion (or diazinon if you happen to have some) right now and get the bark and sapwood off as fast as you can.
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Splitting osage staves can be some tough work. If you remove the bark and sapwood off, make sure to seal the backs with your wood glue, shellac, polyurethane, paint, etc.
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Well it seems as though my work is not done. I suppose I’ll get the sap wood and bark squared away and then start the waiting game. I appreciate the input!
Nathan
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You don't have to get them one ring now, you can just rip it off in a hurry and then chase a ring or two when you start building with them.
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When storing them to dry does it matter if they lay flat or do they need to be standing on end? Seems like I’ve seen a lot of pictures where folks have them standing on end. That may just be a situation where it takes up less room standing them on end.
Nathan
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10-4, Pearl.
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Lay them flat if you can, for at least the first 4-6 months. Standing them on end when green CAN cause warping. The weight pushing down from above can make the lower half kick out on you. Not always, but also not worth the risk.
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missed post
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You don't have to rush to get them all debarked right now. The borers won't be bad until it warms up. Fresh sapwood is easier to remove than dry. You can leave the bark and sapwood on them but it has some risks. I've got borer damage even when I used bug spray. Osage bark can release in one big piece as it dries. I've noticed I get fewer drying checks if I clean them up and seal the backs at least twice.
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Any chance that you want to sell a few of them?
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I’m not interested in selling any at this point. If your ever in Southwest MO look me up and we may be able to work something out.
Nathan
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FWIW
No need to wait. I have made a finished bow less than three weeks from cutting the tree live. Same day work your stave down to a blank and heat with steam and straighten on a caul with 2" backset, let sit 24 hours. Work bow down to the point it looks ready to floor tiller and place in hot box/drying box for a week. Take it out and file with it a little at a time, storing back in the hot box or hot car in the sun when not being worked. After about 2 weeks you can tiller the bow, it may take some set when you do. Put it back on the caul (with about 2" backset) and heat toast the belly with a heat gun (Outlined my Marc St Loius in TBB vol IV on heat tempering). This will drive out most of the rest of the moisture, and stabilize the osage. Finish the bow. Viola! for those kids who just can't wait!