Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Beazley hunter on January 14, 2018, 02:29:00 PM
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Hi y'all. I'm going to attempt to build another bow. My last attempt at a laminate longbow was with self cut hickory laminates, poor design and very little knowledge. Needless to say, it failed. Since then I've done some more reading and research on designs and different woods. I've come up with a design and will be ordering the laminates this time. The bow will be a 68" nock to nock longbow with a slight reflex reflex design. I will be using the following materials in order from back to belly:
0.050" clear UL Bo Tuff
0.060" Bocote
0.130" Action Boo (0.002" taper)
Wenge riser
0.060" Action Boo
0.060" Bocote
0.050" clear UL Bo Tuff
Smooth On epoxy and hot box for every glue line
I'll be using 1/8" wenge tip and riser overlays with a 1/16" strip of action boo underneath. I'm thinking draw weight will be around 70 lbs at 30" draw. My question is, will this combination of materials shoot fast and smooth and will the different woods look good together? I haven't ordered anything yet, but I will be posting progress once I get started. Thanks for reading.
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Not sure about that combo but I'm sure others will chime in.
70 lbs :scared: whoa I would of had a hard time pulling that in my prime, and I kept up with guys 30-40- pounds heavier than me.
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Is 70 lbs overkill? I plan to hunt elk with it.
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I would Reduce your veneer ( bocote) thickness to .025-.030, and I'd reduce the glass to .04 ( at least on the back) and make up the difference in the boo if you still want that heavy of a bow. 70 is pretty heavy for your average shooter
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Also be sure to reinforce your tips with some g10 or phenolic
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Ok how does this sound? (Back to belly)
UL Bo Tuff 0.040
Bocote 0.030
Action Boo parallel 0.070
Action Boo 0.002 taper 0.130
Riser
Action Boo parallel 0.060
Bocote 0.030
UL Bo Tuff 0.040
This reduces my overall thickness to 0.4" which should reduce draw weight to 60-65 lbs if I'm correct.
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How many laminates are too many? Seems like the more glue you use in your stack, the more it will take away from the true action of the wood.
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70 isn’t overkill if you can make it full draw when the slobbering bull is screaming at you. I would make sure you can draw 70 effortlessly before building or hunting with one.
The bow design will dictate how much weight you achieve with .400 , got any pics of form?
Good luck and good hunting! Elk are majestic , but I haven’t gotten in position to loose an arrow yet.
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And there is a balance between too many lams and not enough , IMO . I use 4 wood lams in my bows, too few and natural weakness in wood can cause probs and too many will add weight from glue lines.
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Originally posted by kennym:
The bow design will dictate how much weight you achieve with .400 , got any pics of form?
Kenny is a wise man. I was thinking the same thing as I read down through this thread.
You never really know what your final draw weight will be off a r/d form until you build that first one. Once you build that first one and know the final draw weight of it, you can then adjust stack thickness, while keeping everything else the same, to hit a desired draw weight.
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(http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180115_115856_zpslyzxvwxr.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0)
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(http:// [url=http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180115_115856_zpslyzxvwxr.jpg.html] [img]http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180115_115856_zpslyzxvwxr.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
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This is a wild guess but I think you will be close.
You will have to build one and make adjustments from there. Or I do anyway! LOL
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I'm going to take your advice and build a prototype first. I'm having troubles finding inexpensive laminates though. Any idea where I can find some cheaper than $20 a laminate? Thanks for all the help and advice y'all.
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KennyM has excellent pricing on anything you need to build that bow. I too think you will be close to 70#. If you are going to stay with that 5/8" tip width, you might want to go to a total taper of .003.
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Holy smokes! I didn't see his website. Right on I'll check it out. Thanks
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Kenny, if I'm trying to use bocote veneers, should I use two thick (.130") actin boo laminates (one or both of them tapered) and two thin (.030") Bocote laminates plus the glass (.040") on the back and belly?
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A continuation of the last post; Or do you not count the veneer as one of the four laminates you use?
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Yes, count the veneer as one of the 4, and I would go thin on the bocote. Make sure your riser fits form (dry run) with the laminates under it. In the middle of glue up is a bad time to find that it doesn't fit to suit you! LOL
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For a really cheap prototype, I use ordinary junk pine lams ripped out of a 2x6 between cheap black glass. That will tell you if your jig works properly and your stack calculations are good.
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Crittergetter why do you suggest I reinforce my tips with G10 or phenolic? Is the glass backing with wood overlays not enough? Is the wood a weak spot?
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Alright guys I just ordered the materials. I'll start getting stuff prepared and I'll post along the way. Thanks for all the help and advice.
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Ok guys I've been kind of busy with other things but I'm back now. I planned on building a prototype first but I can't seem to cut laminates that have any consistency whatsoever. So I built a hot box that seems to hold steady at 180° and last night I cut the riser out of my block of bocote and ground and glued a pair of tapered action boo laminates. My bocote veneers are 0.030", should I attempt to grind and glue them together also? Seems like I'd splinter them pretty good but wanted to know what everybody else does. Anyways, I'm going to make a few adjustments to close some small gaps in the glue line and hopefully have it glued and in the hot box today. Pictures to follow......
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I would glue them together. If not, they will want to push apart when you do your glue up.
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Yep, scarf them like that except a longer angle...
I go probably 60* , on a .030 veneer the grind is about a quarter inch long.
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(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180205_122924_zps4kuab0hp.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180205_122924_zps4kuab0hp.jpg.html)
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180205_122918_zpsjzlquzia.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180205_122918_zpsjzlquzia.jpg.html)
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180205_122907_zpsjvbqfjnp.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180205_122907_zpsjvbqfjnp.jpg.html)
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Here's a few dry run pics
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I like the idea of the clamps at the ends of the belly lams. But I don’t think you will need the clamp at the end of the fades. The hardest place to get pressure will be about where your washers are located in the deepest part of the radius.
Also, you should create a high spot in the middle of your pressure strip. I glued a piece of two wire lamp cord the length of the pressure strip with contact cement. If not, the bands will pull more pressure on the edges of the pressure strip.
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Ok just ground and glued the veneers. Next pics will have glue. Hope this goes as planned.
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Bvas, good point. I hadn't thought about that. I'll be wrapping 1/4 rope across the top of the land and around each dowel and then driving heavy duplex nails between the rope and pressure strip once I'm done. Will the nails serve the purpose of a high point? Thanks for the heads up
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Maybe????LOL
Did you attempt this on a dry run?
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Dry run looks good! What are you using for the "red" colored pressure strip?
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Looks good! Like brad said try everything you plan to do at glue up during dry run.
Something tells me the glue up is going on now ....
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Ok, I did use the rope and nails during the dry run. The red strip under the pressure strip is 1/8" rubber. I just finished gluing it up. The only problem was during the dry run THERE'S NO GLUE! I had a hell of a time keeping everything from sliding around. I fought it for lounger than I wanted to and the sides still don't line up like I wanted them to. We'll see how it turns out. Its in the hot box now. I forgot to take pictures before putting it in. I'll have pictures when I take it out. I plan to heat at 180° for 4 hours and then leave it in overnight to cool off slowly.
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Your washers need to be big enough to catch all lams and oressure strip. Sorry I didn’t see that before!
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I should have caught it myself. I think it will work. Worst case scenario I guess it will be 1 3/8" wide.
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I learn or relearn something on every one it seems! :)
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Originally posted by Beazley hunter:
The only problem was during the dry run THERE'S NO GLUE! I had a hell of a time keeping everything from sliding around.
:laughing: ea-40.....aka-bow snot. How can things slip around so much with something designed to hold them together :confused:
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Has anybody ever had riser and laminates not line up perfectly? If so, what did you do to remedy it?
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oh ya_ i have had that :mad: :mad:
the toothpick in the riser trick helps the most.
center lines on the riser, and corresponding lines on the form.
side straps.
airing the hose up in #5 increments-over 1/2hr
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I like the toothpick idea fujimo, I'll try that next time. Ok, I'm looking for opinions here, I've been waiting to take this thing out of the hot box and have been thinking about overlays. I picked through some deer antlers and found one that would make a pretty good fit for my riser overlay. What would it look like if I used some black glass under the antler for tip and riser overlays? Would it look good?
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(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/1517904027493881174744_zpsjug82izj.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/1517904027493881174744_zpsjug82izj.jpg.html)
This is the profile I'm looking to do on my riser. The antler between the pencil lines follows the shape of the riser pretty well. I'm thinking it might look nice.
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i have taken to putting a layer of clear glass under some of the overlays- seems to make a smoother transition into the bow glass.
black glass would make for a nice contrast
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Help!! Just finished cutting and grinding the limbs to width. I was removing the tape on the back and started at the tip like an idiot and I ended up lifting some glass! What do I do? Please help!
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180210_150656_zpsrh9qapdr.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180210_150656_zpsrh9qapdr.jpg.html)
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I'd say figure on narrowing the bow that much. Is that going to make it really narrow?
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That would take it to just under 1 1/4". Could I try to round the edges enough to take that out?
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Yes, I would try that first but you need to get all that sliver IMO one way or another...
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Will do. Thanks Kenny. And thanks for the materials for this bow. I will be ordering from you again.
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Thank You, and good luck!
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You can easily remove that sliver of glass by trapping your limbs but that may put you under your target weight.
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Good point Randy,
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I'm still learning this bow building thing, what is trapping?
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Narrowing either back or belly to make the limb a trapezoid cross section . It doesn’t have to go full length of limb, you can manipulate how it bends a bit doing it. I usually do the back by making a line , about 1/8” from both edges and taking that off without touching the other side of limb. Will take off about 4 lb
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Well here she is at this point. Dimensions changed a little bit but its gonna work. 69" tip to tip, 1 3/8" wide and tips are 1/2". I'm gonna trap the limbs to get rid of the sliver after I get my overlays on.
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/15183369909991300602760_zpsu3jje8td.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/15183369909991300602760_zpsu3jje8td.jpg.html)
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180211_000229_zpsyrhimraq.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180211_000229_zpsyrhimraq.jpg.html)
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180210_235829_zpss3fqpech.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180210_235829_zpss3fqpech.jpg.html)
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180210_235938_zpsw337cdvh.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180210_235938_zpsw337cdvh.jpg.html)
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Ok guys I've been trying to get some overlays out of some deer and elk antlers I've got. I have nothing to show for it and I'm running out of antlers to cut up. I'm mainly having trouble with the riser overlay. By the time I get it ground flat and down to bone it's too narrow to use. Does anybody sell already ground antler material for overlays?
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Deer antler is tough to do for the reason you explained. Anything round can be tough unless you can find a large piece like elk or something. Best thing is to Locate some moose antler if you can and use a flat portion out of the paddle. One cut can yield 2 pieces once you rip it down the middle.
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Ps... Big Jim can probably hook you up with something!!
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Who's Big Jim?
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Originally posted by Beazley hunter:
Who's Big Jim?
https://bigjimsbowcompany.com/shop/
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Originally posted by Beazley hunter:
Who's Big Jim?
Blasphemy!!!! Lol!!!!!!!
Big Jim is the Man!!!!
Thx for the link rockkiller!
Horn or antler probably won’t be listed on his site but just give him a call and he can hook you up!
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Ok thanks, I emailed him. In the meantime, can I cut out my sight window and work on shaping my grip? Or should I wait for overlays to be on? I'm itchin' to work on it.
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I’ve seen where guys do it both ways.
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Is there a benefit or downfall of doing it one way or the other?
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Can’t say for sure. Getting ready to try it for the first time myself.LOL. I just know I’ve seen examples of it done both ways.
I think guys using narrower deer antlers tend to do it after. Guys using wider/flatter moose or elk antlers glue it on before.
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The only thing I'd see would be rounding the back of bow and on up the sight window too much and having no flat place to glue the antler. You would need to leave it big enough to glue it on and then round over. If that makes any sense.
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Not sure where you are putting them tho.
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I'm putting the antler over the grip and sight window. I see what you're saying and agree that rounding it on the back would be an issue when gluing the overlay on. I might just wait. I should probably have it on a tillering tree before I work the riser too much anyways. Can I string the bow before having tip overlays on? Sorry for all the questions, I'm just trying to stay productive when I have free time.
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I string them prior to overlays, but don't shoot them, the overlay is rounded in the grooves to protect the string on mine.
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Sounds good! I'm gonna get to work. Thanks guys for all the help.
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Got some string grooves cut and up on the tiller tree! How does she look?
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180213_194336_zpsgz5fmpzy.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180213_194336_zpsgz5fmpzy.jpg.html)
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180213_194519_zps7panwfhe.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180213_194519_zps7panwfhe.jpg.html)
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I put on my antler or horn prior to shaping the grip or sight window. That way I can blend everything together while I’m doing it and not have to go back and try to make everything match what I’ve already done. It can be done both ways it’s just easier for me this way.
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Oops. Double post
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I think that's what I'll do Crittergetter. No sense in rushing anything. I see the end result getting closer and closer. It was hard to resist the urge to let a few arrows go after stringing it. This bow building thing is awesome!
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Should my limbs be bending more mid limb and out to the tips?
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Originally posted by Beazley hunter:
Should my limbs be bending more mid limb and out to the tips?
I had the same thought when I first looked at the pics, but was hopin someone with more experience would chime in.
What is your taper rate?
How wide are the limbs at fades and tips?
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I would rather they bend a little more in midlimb, stiffer tips wouldn’t bother me .
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Taper is 0.002" per inch and width is 1 3/8" down to 1/2" at the tips.
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Kenny would I achieve that by taking material off the sides?
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Did you end up trapping to get rid of the glass sliver?
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I haven't yet. I want to have my overlays on before I do that so I can blend everything
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I would get the sliver taken care of before drawing the bow too much. You don’t want it to get worse.
The overlay should be kept away from the working fades and limbs anyways.
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Oh good call! I didn't think about that. I will do that tonight. Thanks
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Depending on where the sliver of glass is , the trapping may help your bend.
I thought you had already done the sliver!!
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.004 total taper would take some pressure off your fades at full draw.
On bows over 60# I like .050 glass.
I think .050 glass is a better choice for beginners because if the bow comes in over weight you can sand the glass down to make weight.
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Beasley thanks for posting I'm sand bagging learning about tillering a glass bow , but I'm curious why if the taper rate & front profile is right why the mids would end up stiff ? I'm learning a lot from your post Thanks !
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How do you know the taper rate is right for this design?
If I’m reading it right, Your first post said that you came up with this design? Is that correct?
It may take several bows ( and or changes) to get the desired results.
I hope this didn’t sound negative or judgemental .
If it’s any consolation... I’ve been working on my 3 piece design for over 3 years! I’ve made several changes and built dozens of limbs and I’m still tweaking on it.
But I’m a tinkerer! Just can’t help myself! Lol
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I don't know if the taper is right. I'll go a little more on the the next one I build on this form. As far as design, I can't say it's my design because I looked at a bunch and did something similar.
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And I don't take it as negativity. I appreciate all the input and help from you guys.
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When you guys trap your bows do you use a really steep angle or really shallow? I started shallow. I'm still in the glass on the side.
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/15188349078001095082815_zpsv1g5ari3.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/15188349078001095082815_zpsv1g5ari3.jpg.html)
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The sliver is gone.
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/1518837046218725807349_zpsw0ihaom9.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/1518837046218725807349_zpsw0ihaom9.jpg.html)
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/15188369395771440495908_zpsugspbkfq.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/15188369395771440495908_zpsugspbkfq.jpg.html)
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Got her up on the tiller tree again and I checked weight. 61 lbs @ 28" and 72 lbs @ 31". I draw to 31". I still think I need to get mid limb working more.
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180216_201841_zpsy3v65cfs.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180216_201841_zpsy3v65cfs.jpg.html)
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180216_201926_zps8vrupb2k.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180216_201926_zps8vrupb2k.jpg.html)
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Too stiff in the outer limbs. That design would typically be 1.5" at the fades and use a .003 taper rate.
If it were mine, I'd taper it down to needlepoint tips. You can get there if your string nocks are in the overlays and the string lays down on the side of the limb. Centerline needs to be dead on.
But it ain't mine so take my advice with a whole pinch of salt! :biglaugh:
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Hi Monterey. How narrow are you talking at the tips? 3/8"? I planned 1 1/2" at the fades but everything didn't line up during the glue up so I lost some width. I'm gonna taper more on the next one.
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X2 on Monterey... Go .003 taper and if it still bends a little to close to the fades try a power lam and I think you will be right in there...
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Go 3/8" and then decide if you can go even less.
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Ok I'm getting some moose antler ordered today. I want black underneath of it but what should I use? I have some 0.040" thick black glass but is that too thin? Or even the right material? Thanks guys.
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Woven carbon looks great and is bombproof.
G10 is also very strong.
The black glass will work but is unidirection so has little resistance to spliting. I only use woven materials for nocks now.
I make some of my longbows with 3/8th wide nocks, you could go even less but only take off a little width then check for straightness/twist/tiller. If everything is good remove a little more.
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Awesome! Thank you!
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Originally posted by Beazley hunter:
As far as design, I can't say it's my design because I looked at a bunch and did something similar.
Excuse me for laughing... But that cracks me up... That is such a Green Horn statement... Sounds like something I would have said a few years back...
Listen to Critter... If you think you are gonna pop out the perfect bow in a try or two, you are in for a surprise... Although you could get lucky... You are working with dynamic, moving, bending limbs... There is a lot more than meets the eye... Thousandth's of an inch or a small change in radius can make or brake a bow...
Just like Critter I been tweaking the same bow for over a year now and I am just getting close to reaching optimal performance from that design... It's never ending...
If you want to see how your bow should bend look at mine in the swap thread... Its not perfect and its just rough sanded but it will give you an idea...
This craft is the most challenging... If you like a challenge, stick with it you'll do fine... You are making a nice bow and it is a learning process... I made over 50 bows and I still feel like a Green Horn... Lol...
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I would say that is a tremendous first bow. I still have mine and haven't showed it to anybody for a long time. :thumbsup:
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Shredd I don't expect that this will turn out a prefect bow. Please excuse me if I gave that impression. Unless I use somebody else's dialed in design there is going to be changes to be made. I'm aware of that. However, I'm not going to throw it away and start over. I'm going to finish it as if it were going to be perfect and learn more while doing it.
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I would agree with Kenny - lots of fine work in that bow. I bet you can shoot well with it and if you are a hunter it will make a hunting bow. Your next one will probably be better - as we do learn through experience. That is the fun part for me. I have yet to make a "perfect" bow. But the ones I make now are a little better than the ones I made several years ago!
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You are Kicking Arse Brudder... My first bows fell apart... Just puttin' in my 2cents... And pokin' a little fun at yah...
Same as osborn... I have not made a perfect bow yet either...
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Much appreciated guys
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Yes sir, ill agree. That is a GREAT first bow!!
Like Kenny, i still have my first. Evey once in a while ill pull it off the rack and look at it just to remind myself how far I’ve come!
I can send you some black 1/16 g10 for reinforcing your overlays if you’d like.
Just pm me your address!
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Thanks Crittergetter! I ordered 1/8" G10 with the moose antler. You think that's too thick?
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I prefer 1/6 but 1/8 is fine, just grind your antler pretty thin so every thing isnt to bulky.
You could also sand down the g10 a little if need be.
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The bow I’m working on now is going to be perfect............ until I build the next one ;)
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Yep, my next one is perfect til I find an imperfection...... :D
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I found a little time to work on it today. I got the tips down to 3/8" wide and here she is. I'm a little hesitant to go any narrower at the tips, but I realize it's not a pretty tiller. What would you guys do? Go narrower still?
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180225_151256_zps3ju8f6zd.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180225_151256_zps3ju8f6zd.jpg.html)
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180225_144533_zps0oiroexh.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180225_144533_zps0oiroexh.jpg.html)
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The tiller is not bad, I think part of what you are seeing is the riser is not deflexed enough to make a full circular sweep at full draw. In other words , the riser looks straighter than the rest of the limbs...
Shot it yet? :)
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I haven't shot it yet. I'm waiting to cut out the grip and sight window until I have my overlays on. The moose antler should be here any day. Would you leave the limbs alone at this point?
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And if you would leave the limbs alone, which one would you have be the top limb?
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I agree, tiller don’t look too shabby.
As far as top and bottom.......do a search here for bowjunkie and check out his tillering method. Mark the bow for center and assumed shelves for both ways and see which way your tillering string pulls straightest. (This will make more sense after you read his tillering method)
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I'll check it out! Thanks!
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I found some threads where Bowjunkie talks about his tillering method, but nothing where he explains it enough for my pea brain to understand. He talks about tillering from a fulcrum. This is a rough riser design I'm looking at doing. The line is center of the bow. Is the fulcrum at the line or the arrow shelf?
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180225_203543_zpszwtaiwjh.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180225_203543_zpszwtaiwjh.jpg.html)
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I'm not positive...but I believe he means the rest on the tillering tree would let the bow tilt one way or the other if the limbs aren't doing the same amount of the load.
I'm also pretty sure the only place to rest the bow on a fulcrum would be at the deepest part of the grip.
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I have read through many of Bowjunkie's threads also in hopes of understanding his method. This is my understanding of it:
The fulcrum would be the balance point on your bow hand where the pressure is applied. Usually between your fore finger and middle finger, but will vary depending on the person holding the bow, how pressure is applied, and the shape of the handle. In your picture and the way that grip is shaped, the fulcrum should be pretty close to the center line.
You want to simulate the way you hold your bow and apply pressure onto your tiller tree. A rounded off piece of wood matching the contour of your handle would simulate the forward pressure of your grip. Any imbalance during the draw cycle and at full draw would be evident when setting up the tree this way as Zradix explains.
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I don't know the author, but this article helps explain bow balance and tillering for it....
http://www.buildyourownbow.com/the-truth-about-bow-balance/
The concepts should be the same for wood and glass.
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Shipping got messed up so I'm still waiting on the antler. I got tired of staring at it so I did a little work today.
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180303_163221_zpsafcst9wj.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180303_163221_zpsafcst9wj.jpg.html)
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180303_163315_zpszmwkpayk.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180303_163315_zpszmwkpayk.jpg.html)
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180303_163253_zpsgsx2mbbo.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180303_163253_zpsgsx2mbbo.jpg.html)
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I think you did an awesome job... Like how you shaped your grip and how your ramps got a little ying an yang going on...
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Thanks Shredd! I'm pretty happy with how it's turning out. Can't wait to shoot it!
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Now ya got a shelf, ya shot it yet? LOL
Sand the glass corners before you do, just in case a splinter might rear it's ugly head....
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Check it out guys! I still have to sand the glue that squeezed out and do a little work on the tips but its coming along nicely I think. I got to shoot a few arrows through it the other night. I love this bow!
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180329_183601_zpslxtkl2wt.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180329_183601_zpslxtkl2wt.jpg.html)
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180329_183626_zpsw1bhqnot.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180329_183626_zpsw1bhqnot.jpg.html)
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Ok I got all the sanding done I think. I sanded everything to 320 grit. I think I'm going to use Minwax Helmsman spar urethane clear satin for my finish. I'm not good with sprays or brushes so I'm going to thin it down with acetone, wipe it on and hit it with some steel wool between 3 or 4 coats. Would you guys put it on the antler overlays too? And does my plan sound good for a durable, quality looking finish?
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I’ve used spar finish before, but in a rattle can. It is a durable finish. I just didn’t like the yellowing that comes with it. Whatever finish you use, you want to seal everything. You don’t want moisture to find it’s way in.
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I’ve used spar finish before, but in a rattle can. It is a durable finish. I just didn’t like the yellowing that comes with it. Whatever finish you use, you want to seal everything. You don’t want moisture to find it’s way in.
Pardon me for barging in, what do you use for sealing the wood? I have never done that before, my brain figured the finish would seal it.
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Yes. The finish seals the wood.
I’m saying I would apply finish to all surfaces to make sure everything is sealed.
Your over thinking Skeater. (Never thought I’d say that. Lol)
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Thanks for the heads up Bvas. Are you aware of any clear, wipe on finish that won't yellow? I was looking at tung oil as an option but I wasn't sure if that would seal the fiberglass and make a good finish.
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Not sure as far as wipe on application. I have heard of some guys trying the water based poly. I don’t think it yellows, but might not be as durable.
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If nobody has already mentioned it, poly won’t dry in Bocote cause of the oils. I’d seal with shellac or spray it with auto clearcoat. Clearcoat dries really quick and is clear.
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Thanks for the input guys. I'll look into the auto clear coat.
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Your over thinking Skeater. (Never thought I’d say that. Lol)
oooh, that cuts Bvas, cuts me deep :o
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Hey Kenny do you see anything wrong with a few coats of shellac with rustoleum automotive clear enamel on top?
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Last pictures without a finish
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180401_000955_zpsut1esvyw.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180401_000955_zpsut1esvyw.jpg.html)
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180401_000541_zpshyzwdjqp.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180401_000541_zpshyzwdjqp.jpg.html)
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180401_001044_zpslqfywe2a.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180401_001044_zpslqfywe2a.jpg.html)
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Sorry for all the pictures, but I love this bow! Got 2 coats of shellac on it, still have a few to go. I checked draw weight today, at 28" it's 47 lbs and 56 lbs @ 31". Came in a little lighter than I had planned, but it'll work just fine.
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180403_183948_zps8warmz4i.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180403_183948_zps8warmz4i.jpg.html)
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180403_184050_zpsgzvim9mt.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180403_184050_zpsgzvim9mt.jpg.html)
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180403_184125_zpsdt73x0zd.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180403_184125_zpsdt73x0zd.jpg.html)
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180403_184154_zpsvtpofia1.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180403_184154_zpsvtpofia1.jpg.html)
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180403_184232_zps0e8dn7ct.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180403_184232_zps0e8dn7ct.jpg.html)
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180403_184317_zpsivlphlij.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180403_184317_zpsivlphlij.jpg.html)
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180403_184356_zps07u0adyu.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180403_184356_zps07u0adyu.jpg.html)
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Nice work. That looks great! :clapper:
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Looks great! Bocote is one of my favorite woods to use due to the interesting and unique grain patterns. You've built a winner for sure!
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Thanks guys! I do like the grain of bocote.
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Beautiful congrats!
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That turned out very nice!!!
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Thanks guys
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All done. Shoots nice. Thanks for all the help guys. It's much appreciated.
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180406_205423_zpsbw4ee8ed.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180406_205423_zpsbw4ee8ed.jpg.html)
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:thumbsup:
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Looks like a hunter to me :thumbsup:
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Very nice bow.. :thumbsup:
Quote from: Bvas on March 31, 2018, 09:31:45 AM
Your over thinking Skeater. (Never thought I’d say that. Lol)
X'S 2
:laughing:
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You did a nice job!! Great lookin bow!
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I gotta revive this one for some help. I'm getting a lot of weird wear on my arrow rest. I've moved my nock point to bare shaft tune it to about 9/16" above center. Is my nock point wrong? I've clocked my arrow nocks so that the bottom hen feather rides in the gap between the arrow rest and side plate which puts my cock feather slightly under 90° to the string. Are my arrow nocks clocked wrong? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks ya'll.
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180621_205302_zps4aft0iw7.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180621_205302_zps4aft0iw7.jpg.html)
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah306/ryanjkeller83/20180621_205332_zpsvaasiu2o.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/ryanjkeller83/media/20180621_205332_zpsvaasiu2o.jpg.html)
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...clear, wipe on finish that won't yellow? I was looking at tung oil as an option but I wasn't sure if that would seal the fiberglass and make a good finish.
Tung oil is an *oil* it will not soak into fiberglass. NOTHING soaks into fiberglass. Fiberglass, by its very nature, does not need to be sealed or 'waterproofed'. Anything you use as a finish has to dry on the surface of the fiberglass.
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I can't tell from the pic for sure but it looks like that's where your arrow is riding ,knock a arrow and see where it's touching , maybe lower the knock and see ,I have been tuning arrows and shelf heights & location a lot lately , seems there is always a sweet spot on every bow I have , the hard part is finding it ! But when you do it's worth it , some times I make shims out of painters tape to see where the arrow touches & height and don't have to change the string knock tell I find the recipe ,I hope that helps ! Some times bare shaft tuning doesn't tell the whole story for me.
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Sometimes a stiff arrow will wear outside of shelf pad. and you can get a false weak reading from it too BTW.
Might also put something under shelf to make the arrow ride more over the low point of grip,or close . This will also help with any torqueing of bow at shot.
I usually put something like a paper match or pc of leather under mine from habit whether it needs it or not.
also I've started putting the cock feather at about 7:00
, watch some slo mo vid of arrows and a tuned arrow should not be close to rest anyway....