Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: kennym on January 01, 2018, 09:37:00 PM
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I have started putting the 64" D/R modified build on my website. Too many pics to load and put here at this time so here is the link.
https://www.kennysarchery.com/bow-build/
I have more to put up so be patient with my slow typin! :D
I had it pretty much done last nite when the screen went blank and it is now orbiting in cyberspace somewhere. I wanted to work on the computer with an axe. :p
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Nice Kenny
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Very nice bud.
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Mucho interesting, looking forward to the rest.
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Thanks guys!
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Nice Kenny... Looks good...
Question... What is the proper name for those hold-downs on your swing jig and where can I get them?? I thought I saw them at Harbor Freight but never saw them again...
Suggestion... At the top of your page it would be nice to see info of what you are building... Maybe some kind of intro... Like Long bow or recurve, length, 3pc or 1pc. , riser length and such...
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Those are toggle clamps and yes HF has them. (that was typed doing my best Kenny impersonation)
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Looking good Kenny! Ready for more.
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As usual it looks really great.
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Thanks Kenny puts every thing in to perspective for us new guys looking forward to the rest !
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I will get more each evening, got shop work and still bow season..... :biglaugh:
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Originally posted by skeaterbait:
Those are toggle clamps and yes HF has them. (that was typed doing my best Kenny impersonation)
Will have to check our new HF at Kirksville , these came from Grizzly, but I'm not wanting to go in that store!! Costs my butt every time!!
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Well done Kenny - thanks!
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Yep, very nice. Thanks for the ideas.
Any idea what angle you use on that disc sander jig? Around 15 deg?
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Originally posted by skeaterbait:
Those are toggle clamps and yes HF has them. (that was typed doing my best Kenny impersonation)
Thanks Skeats... I thought they had them... The people in the store were no help...
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Ben it is probably about 15* , but I just set it so it is long so it won't come apart when forced down in form.
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I like the looks of that riser you chose on that one cant wait to see it carved out ! I like your radius jig for your band saw good idea , I dont have time to make one maybe cut mine on the bandsaw & patern sand to dimension . Im glad you decided to do the build its giving me a lot of ideas !
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Adding a little every nite. Almost back to where I was when it went South the first time, but saving my work more often now. See , you can learn an ol dawg stuff! :D
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Great build along so far kenny :thumbsup:
Wish you had done this about a year ago, before I built my first bow. Woulda saved me compiling info from 30 different threads here on TG. Lol
I got a question/comment. Now granted I don’t use air hose, so this is purely observation. I understand the use of wedges to gain pressure in the tight radius spots. But I would have thought you would put them between the hose and upper form to ensure a nice rounded pressure on the lams.
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You could be right on that Brad, but it seemed the place to put them at the moment! LOL
It probably didn't matter up that far on the fades and got a good glue line so not sure, if I do another without changing the form again, I will try it!
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Ok here comes the newbe questions for you guys ,does it mater when building up a riser if I use kiln dried boards and if the grain is strait does it matter if flat sawn or 1/4 also can I use comercial veneeres the thin stuff in the riser pattern , I have kiln dried bubinga,purple heart ,walnut, and air dried osage & maple,hickory any advice appreciated ! Being new over here I dont know if this is the right place to ask or start a different thread ?
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Yeah Kenny... I would put them above the hose... It will add the pressure...
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Ritchie, kiln dried is probably best, if not dry it will shrink a bit. And if you put any glass or phenolic in it , you will be able to feel the joint later, never had one fail but sure irritating to be able to feel the joint on it.
Where were you going to use the commercial veneer? As accents they would be fine but a little thin for my liking as most are .022", would'nt show up as well as a .060" line in the riser.
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That's a good thing to know Kenny on the air dried wood never really thought of it ,I was just going to accent out a peace of shop veneere with the commercial stuff I have a bunch collecting dust lying around but maybe I should make it simple on the first , does the phenolic add more strength then wood ? I found some ebony I have that I forgot about that I thought would look good caped out with a lighter veneere wood I was going to just use a solid riser at first then I seen all you guys fancy risers ! so figured I would spruce it up a bit.
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Kenny is right about the phenolic and wood moving at different rates. Never had one fail either but it bugs me.Using phenolic with stabilized wood would be better. You can always ibeam with stronger wood or ibeam with the same wood. I found a veneer suplier that has thin stuff and thicker stuff that is dyed that can be used for veneers or accents.
web page (http://www.dyed-veneer.com/dyed_veneers.aspx)
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Thanks for the site there Stick & info I will put that one in my pocket, I got a new Lenox venerre blade for my band saw I want to try out see how it works but need to pick up some glass or phenolic.
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I ve gotten veneers from B&B and they are good quality. The exotics I've gotten from them are .021 but if they are going to be a part of the stack, best get the veneers first, measure and then grind or order the rest of the stack.
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That riser grip is looking awsome kenny ,!
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Thanks Ritchie, may be able to work on it a bit this week!
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Very nice, Kenny.
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Looking good Kenny!
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Kenny I decided Im just going to make the 64 in. Bow Im pretty much going to replicate your build but Im looking for 47-48 lb @ 29 1/4 in. draw would you recomend the 45 lb stack Im getting to old to pull much more then that in the late season cold ?
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That should be real close to coming in at the right weight for you.
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Oh , sprayed it yesterday. Mad it pop!
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Mad it pop huh? LOL
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It really looks nice. Have you been able to shoot it yet.
I've got some questions if you don't mind.
1 What band saw blade as far as width and TPI do you use when cutting the riser curves with your radius cutting jig.
2 Do you do any sanding to remove blade teeth marks after the cut or if there aren't any obvious bumps or dips is it good to glue up as is.
3 What blade would you recommend if cutting a tighter 6" radius.
Thanks, Royce.
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Originally posted by kennym:
Oh , sprayed it yesterday. Mad it pop!
Didn’t happen without pictures. :coffee:
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Zactly.....
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Can’t find my camera in the sock drawer....
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LOL ok
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Originally posted by Bow Bender:
It really looks nice. Have you been able to shoot it yet.
I've got some questions if you don't mind.
1 What band saw blade as far as width and TPI do you use when cutting the riser curves with your radius cutting jig.
2 Do you do any sanding to remove blade teeth marks after the cut or if there aren't any obvious bumps or dips is it good to glue up as is.
3 What blade would you recommend if cutting a tighter 6" radius.
Thanks, Royce.
Hi Royce,
I run a 3 or 4 tpi x 1/2” blade for lams and cut the radius with it too
I do sand off the saw marks but have clamped the risers and not sure I’d have to.
For a 6” radius, you would have to go less than 1/2” , don’t know if 3/8 would do it but I’m sure 1/4 would
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Kenny, thanks for the info.
Royce
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Can’t find my camera in the sock drawer....
Kenny, Hova just called me. He found his camera and is gonna UPS it to ya..
But it Still needs batteries.. :)
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You're welcome!!
OK Roy , but it is getting the final coat sometime today so it will be wet, can't take pics then. Gonna be cold tomorrow...... :D
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I notices you cut your string nocks before you glue on the tip overlays. Is there any particular advantage to this method?
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Mainly so I can file at the marks laid out from center on the tape . There may be better ways, but that is just how I have done it forever! Now I'm thinking......
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(http://i.imgur.com/Gf6Gq1l.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/xrw2VdG.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/WjtpBBI.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/6tXvC1O.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/zqrZA0a.jpg)
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Nice ole boy..
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Thanks Roy, it is all MO woods, walnut core , curly ambrosia maple veneers and riser from same woods.
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I really like those tips at full draw.
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That's beautifull man ,it's awsome looking bow, how is it shooting ? Hope you get a chance to poke a dear with that one !
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Looks good Kenny.
I’m also trying to stick with domestic woods. I Would rather push myself in design than rely on fancy grain to highlight a bow.
PS. What’s the point in dishing out the back of the bow if your gonna shoot open handed :laughing:
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It reduces weight and makes the bow faster...
Ya rookie.. :)
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I don’t shoot open handed , not sure why I did that !! LOL
Let’s go with Roy’s ideA!!
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Nice looking bow, Kenny. Why use 6 string silencers? Just a personal preference?
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It’s a gwass bow. How would Roy know anything about it?
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Thanks Pat, that string was off my hunting bow and I wanted to use the arrows I had so I had to slow it down a bit for tune. Quieter too so win win.
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:thumbsup:
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Looking good, nice bend on that one
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Nice wood combo and great build-a-long.
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it looks great...you have to love that full draw profile.
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That is an awesome looking bow, Kenny!
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I guess it's kinda ok.
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Kenny that's a good looking bow!
I realy loke that rubber attachment on the drill you used for the shelf.
What's it called? I'd like to order online
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Here ya go
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CDDDDEW/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1515906862&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=tire+repair+tools&dpPl=1&dpID=51Jvl29jVRL&ref=plSrch
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Be careful on edges of glass to always grind into the wood. I think it would pull a sliver up if you grind from wood out to glass. Haven’t done that trick yet but think it is very possible.
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Thanks Kenny
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Sweet bow Kenny. Thanks for the build.
I love the profile at full draw. That's the shape I'm striving for with my r/d wood lam bows.
How much r/d does this form have, and are the limbs different lengths?
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And If I'm asking for more information than you feel comfortable giving out please don't. I'm just looking for a rough idea so that I can compare your profile to what I want mine to look like.
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Nope, I just to measure D and R to be sure. Be with ya soon!
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Ben, if yo put the bow back against the edge of bench with tips out on bench, it has 2.25" deflex and the tips are 1" out on bench. so 3.25" reflex?
Not sure what the proper method of measuring D/R is....
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Me neither. As long as you have a reference I guess it doesn't matter.
It looks like you have more deflex and the same reflex as my block form. My center post is 4" the mid post is 3" and the tip post is 6.25". So I say I have 1" deflex and 3.25" reflex. Not sure if that's right.
Thanks. I think it's close enough where I can try and make my full draw profile look like yours.
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I have .003 total taper and an 18" riser in there too.....
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Yeah yours is shorter too and you use glass. I just really like that profile.