Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Maryland Mountain Man on December 08, 2017, 09:59:00 AM
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I have more than a few primitive bows that as soon as I got them I changed the string to the three line Flemish twist with the yellow/brown coloring you can buy from most vendors. The original strings that came with the bows were black Flemish twist, with just two lines twisted. So... I have a small collection of these strings and I was wondering how well center servings takes to the less round shaped of the double twist vs. the triple twist? Or is there even any benefit of trying to use these strings (I was thinking their smaller profile might add a few fps)
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The center serving will take just fine on the double twist.
The biggest and most noticeable fps different you'll get with strings is changing from B-50 to a fast flight material string. My bows averaged 5-7 fps speed gain when I made the switch.
Less mass and less twist will make a faster string all else being equal.
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Many thanks. Most of my bows don't have horn nocks and it said not to use fast flight with them so I didn't try. I did try endless loop on one of my hickory English longbows and from the serving/wrapping around the nock points I noticed it started to chew into the wood a little bit over time so I stopped using it and went back to the B-50. I'll order a center server tool and give the double twist flemish a whirl and see what the chrono has to say about it. Thanks again.
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A lot of bowyers on here as well as myself believe that the fast flight scare is a myth. Most of the problems involve nocks that would have given any string a problem. You can read hundreds of posts about the subject here and on other websites.
That being said, if your bow specifically says not to use fast flight, I wouldn't use it.
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When you make any type of string. The final shape of the string should be completely round.
Ben..
A Flemish twist string is typically only twisted at the loops??
Don't know where ya got that at Ben, but it is not true. All I make is flemish strings. After both loops are twisted up, I twist the string till I get the brace height I need.
When making a flemish string, after you make the first loop. You need to hook that first loop over some sort of post, pull it tight, and twist each bundle separately, backwards till it lays straight. Count the number of twists it took to get it straight, then twist it that many more times in the same directions. That makes the string round as heck when done.
I seen a video on this, and it works. I'll look for it.
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Originally posted by Roy from Pa:
When you make any type of string. The final shape of the string should be completely round.
Ben..
A Flemish twist string is typically only twisted at the loops??
Don't know where ya got that at Ben, but it is not true. All I make is flemish strings. After both loops are twisted up, I twist the string till I get the brace height I need.
When making a flemish string, after you make the first loop. You need to hook that first loop over some sort of post, pull it tight, and twist each bundle separately, backwards till it lays straight. Count the number of twists it took to get it straight, then twist it that many more times in the same directions. That makes the string round as heck when done.
I seen a video on this, and it works. I'll look for it.
Yep
After twisting the first loop, the rest of the string will be twisted the wrong way, by untwisting each bundle (like Roy said ) and back twisting more you will end up with a round string.
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All of the strings I make for my bows over many years are 2 ply B-50 and I've never has a center serving come loose and they are as round as any.
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With modern materials it doesn't matter how you make them. The materials are so strong and durable nobody knows the differences anymore (beacuse they don't matter)!
3 ply is stronger and rounder than a 2 ply in the reverse twisted sections.
The best is 7 plys each made of 7 simple plys. The reason - 7 plys are rounder with less dead weight and more even strain than any other section. Look at the best wire leaders for shark fishing if you don't believe me haha!
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Oh and the thing about not using fastflight is hogwash :) with one exception - true composite hornbows over about 70# don't like fastflight it will damge their nocks.
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If you don't untwist the bundles you will have a string that is out of round just like Roy said.
Dang, I hate it when Roy is right and I have to pump up his ego.......
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Eric, I'll be sending you a Xmas present.. LOL
Okie doke, Ben.
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Roy is right.
I don't make enough strings so I review the video below just about every time I make one. I don't use fishing line or self nocks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPEv_R8dSQc&t=410s
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I made one of braid fishing line just to see how it work. Seemed ok but after a few shots it went on the hook on the wall.
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Your bow strings are cabled like Old Man Roy said. A well made string should be round except for the last several inches leading up to the loops. Doesn't matter if they are 2 or 3 strand.
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Is there a rule of thumb for the diameter of the center serving string you should wrap the bowstring with or is this just preference? I was assuming higher poundage = thicker diameter?
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You should choose the serving diameter to get a good fit for the arrow nocks to the string. The more strands you have in the string, the tighter it would make your nocks. The lesser strands in the string the looser the nocks would fit. So you need to adjust via the diameter of the serving string.
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Serving diameter doesn't matter. Its only there to protect the string and make nocking the arrow smother. Use whatever gives you the best nock fit.
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Makes sense! Thanks for the replies. I've got a Modoc, Mohawk, Penobscot, and an English longbow that I'll be doing with this. Ordered one of those BCY serving tools to hopefully make it a much quicker process and I already had a spool of .20 Brownell Trad-X I'll be using. This should have two benefits for me. I usually heat up my nocks and spread them to get rid of any drag from the nock and with these smaller diameter bowstrings this will no longer be an issue. The Easton H nocks on my Beman Centershot arrows eventually pull back toward their original size and I end up separating them again. You guys are awesome! Thanks again.