Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: arachnid on December 05, 2017, 02:44:00 PM
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Hello Tradgangers.
I`ve got a 64" longbow that I built (my second bow ) that`s just laying around unused. So I thought I`ll convert it to a 2 piece takedown (easier to travel with). Also, it`ll be a fun experiment.
I`ve watched Big Jim`s 10 video series on his FG sleeve. His method looks a bit complicated. I also found this build along-
http://piratesofarchery.net/bb/viewtopic.php?p=97891
This one looks too simple...
I guess what I`m looking for lays someware in between. So if anyone have some experience on convertion a bow into a 2 piece, I`ll be more then happy to have some info.
If you need some pictures of the bow- let me know.
Thanks in advance
Dor
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Hi Arachnid,
.....Too simple?? I had a look at the link and would not underestimate the difficulty of executing this take-down system in an accurate and functional fashion......Before i looked at the link I would have elected this system as the one I'd be most likely to adopt if I ever converted a one piece to a two piece, but I would not be expecting it to be a boring 'walk in the park' at all. Do so at your (and your bow's) peril :D :D :D
I made a 'pickhandle takedown' as my first bow
with the metal sleeve method - fabricated my own steel and brass components and the project was a success. The sleeve assembly does not offer the same freedom to shape and personalise the grip however - you end up with a straight grip of oval cross-section and seems more at home on straight limbed self-bows perhaps....
Keep us up to date with what you decide mate and how it all goes
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When you cut it in two I would make the angle of cut so you have more pilot at least 1 inch on the belly side.
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Follow Jims method to the letter and you will have a solid takedown.
You really need to have a strengthening I-beam type riser to start with though.
I have used this method on a finished 1 piece. If you watched the videos you will see that the method relies on having a dead flat side to the bow. To achieve this on a 1 piece you will need to use something like milput to build up the riser back past where you need it. Let it cure then grind your flat surface , the milput fills the low spots.
Once you have this done just follow the videos.
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I did it like Jim´s method but i do not use release agent i use a thin layer of this stretchable plastic film for wrapping food to be fresh.
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Mike, the bow I want to convert doesn't have an I beam riser.
Is it such a problem?
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You my get by without the Ibeam. But for sure you are way better off with one. It is going to strengthen the shelf and sight window area. I use .090 G 10 off center away from the shelf.
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One of the more fascinating "take down" bows that I've seen is a Persian hinged bow.
(https://i.imgur.com/u7DUhUQm.jpg)
Simple flat hinge mounted on the back side of the bow at the center. I suppose you could even slightly "adjust" the amount of reflex by using a wedge between the two halves.
There is/was a modern made Connexion hinged developed specifically for bows that you may be able to find for sale.