Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: stickmonkey on December 04, 2017, 12:38:00 PM
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It’s taken 8 months of work, tweaks and gathering advice from gentlemen like Big Jim, Mike Miller, jim belcher, Dale Stahal, Kenny McKenzie and most of all Jim Thorne to finally have my 56” where I want it.
56” hybrid
52#@28”
3lbs per inch of draw to 29”
Tuned out at a 7 - 7 1/4” brace
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2elz2gp.jpg)
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Nice looking bow Shane. I'm getting close to finishing another off my 54" hybrid form. I incorporated the same hook in the bottom of my grip to help smooth transition, but keep grip length.
How does it shoot? Do you get a lot of noise with that much string contact on the limbs?
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:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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Wow! Very nice looking! It certainly just looks fast....How does it sound? I notice there seems to be more than what I typically see for string contact on the limbs coming out of the string grooves....could be just the pic?
Very nice looking bow!!!
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The string had stretched 1/4 and the angle makes it look closer than it is but no I am not hearing any more than any of the others. It shoot really well. 14 strand d97 and 50#@28” 506gr arrow = 174 fps. I am plenty happy with that as it just shoots so well and smooth drawing.
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Thats a real good looking bow. Nice job.
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I like that unique hook riser shape.
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I like it! Looks sleek and aggressive at the same time!
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So are you trying to tell us, It's not what you know it's who you know?? :)
Pretty slick there Monkey... Can I steal that design?? :) I would like to see some pics unbraced and at 28"...
Cool looking riser also...
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Sweet!
Its got a pretty cool profile that looks just 'right'.
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Originally posted by Shredd:
So are you trying to tell us, It's not what you know it's who you know?? :)
Pretty slick there Monkey... Can I steal that design?? :) I would like to see some pics unbraced and at 28"...
Cool looking riser also...
Its listening to those you know that can help you know more, than they think you know. Ya know? :goldtooth:
I will add no one gave me a design to start with. I Knew where I wanted the design to be and I knew how I wanted the bow to look when strung. The people above were nice enought to answer specific questions based on their experience or shared some information that was unrelated to the bow that I later was able to incorperate.
I am going to hold off on the unstrung profile for a little bit as Its been a long and expensive 8 months. I am going to make minor adjustments the design. Lots of stability here and I can trade some off for a little more performance and keep the brace at 7" Still amazed at the draw cycle and the preload is strong enough to make the limbs feel like they just stop when the string dropped.
The last thing I added and its not in the pic is a workaround for center shot. I went 1/16th" past center, then used a 1/2" endmill tosink a flat bottom hole .050 at the apex of the shelf inline with the throat. This let me punch a 1/2" circle of leather striker plate and place it in the hole leaving a few thousands proud. Now my arrow is sitting centered but not touching the riser excpet for the leather and didnt have to remove the extra 1/8' of wood. Pretty slick way to keep as much wood in the riser at the weak point as possible.
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(http://i63.tinypic.com/1zz0wmh.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2qlfhhf.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/x5o406.jpg)
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Originally posted by stickmonkey:
Originally posted by Shredd:
So are you trying to tell us, It's not what you know it's who you know?? :)
Pretty slick there Monkey... Can I steal that design?? :) I would like to see some pics unbraced and at 28"...
Cool looking riser also...
Its listening to those you know that can help you know more, than they think you know. Ya know? :goldtooth:
I will add no one gave me a design to start with. I Knew where I wanted the design to be and I knew how I wanted the bow to look when strung. The people above were nice enought to answer specific questions based on their experience or shared some information that was unrelated to the bow that I later was able to incorperate.
I am going to hold off on the unstrung profile for a little bit as Its been a long and expensive 8 months. I am going to make minor adjustments the design. Lots of stability here and I can trade some off for a little more performance and keep the brace at 7" Still amazed at the draw cycle and the preload is strong enough to make the limbs feel like they just stop when the string dropped.
The last thing I added and its not in the pic is a workaround for center shot. I went 1/16th" past center, then used a 1/2" endmill tosink a flat bottom hole .050 at the apex of the shelf inline with the throat. This let me punch a 1/2" circle of leather striker plate and place it in the hole leaving a few thousands proud. Now my arrow is sitting centered but not touching the riser excpet for the leather and didnt have to remove the extra 1/8' of wood. Pretty slick way to keep as much wood in the riser at the weak point as possible. [/b]
So you're saying you counter sunk the leather strike and when installed, it brings you to center shot? (very cool set up!)
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Yeah basically thats it
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Originally posted by stickmonkey:
The last thing I added and its not in the pic is a workaround for center shot. I went 1/16th" past center, then used a 1/2" endmill tosink a flat bottom hole .050 at the apex of the shelf inline with the throat. This let me punch a 1/2" circle of leather striker plate and place it in the hole leaving a few thousands proud. Now my arrow is sitting centered but not touching the riser excpet for the leather and didnt have to remove the extra 1/8' of wood. Pretty slick way to keep as much wood in the riser at the weak point as possible. [/b]
I understand what you have done and it’s a cool idea. But I believe you are misusing terminology. You have your strike plate located at center with minimal wood removal. “Centershot” is having the center of the arrow located at the center of the bow. This would require cutting the sight window past center by at least half the diameter of your arrow.
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I cut all mine to center had no tuning problems. If you want to go past center and are worried about the strength I might suggest an off center Ibeam. I use .090 G-10 in some risers depending on the wood used. That will also stiffen it up a bit.