Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: arachnid on June 17, 2017, 06:29:00 PM
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Hi guys...
I`ll get right to it- I can`t get the riser blocl to fit perfectly on the form. I got it pretty close to perfect- is that enough?
But. my main problem is the fades. I don`t have a pattern/tamplate sander, I use my belt sander jig for it and I just cant get it right.
Here`s where I`m at... I got the back lam on the form, on top of it there`s a power-lam ant the riser sits on it.
(https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19105841_1370876179668769_6227724901989223529_n.jpg?oh=b390e5e90adaf00c10c33bdb639f71ee&oe=59CD290D)
Here`s a close up of the fade... not too bad?
(https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18485891_1370876159668771_2910864927449776344_n.jpg?oh=6ffabc68ab0ca001b80960350bbfe879&oe=599F209C)
Well, take a look at the other side of the same fade... Agh...(sorry for the up-right picture)
(https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19149119_1370876086335445_7451264432619189771_n.jpg?oh=062e547bc021ed60fc16c94d46fd6e0e&oe=59DB9C0F)
Here`s my sanding station... if I can call it that way.. (https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19225673_1370876079668779_3669334724079706976_n.jpg?oh=24146e2b04f558800070505546761716&oe=59A022FD) (https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19260774_1370876089668778_3992592445258680659_n.jpg?oh=57fbbc21a55265a52583e56a993d9e4f&oe=59E73732)
So, what can I do?
Any tip and tricks will be welcome.
Thanks in advance
Dor
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Looks as though there is too abrut of a change. Maybe add another thin lam to get a more gentle transition.
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I'm guessing your sander is not square with the table.
If you can.....keep flipping the riser over on the table. This should leave you with a slight ridge in the middle to sand out by hand.
I would also try to get a more gradual taper on the riser fades.
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You have a high spot at that 2nd clamp (2nd and 3rd Pic.)
Carefully sand that down ( back and belly of RISER), by hand or rasp, go slow.
Stop with the power tool's
Good luck, you can do it.
:thumbsup:
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How do I get a more gradual taper? I already shortened the riser to less then 18"....
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...
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Originally posted by Pago:
...
Well said... ;)
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The belly side of the riser will not be straight if you want a more gradual taper. Hopefully you can see what I'm talking about in these pics.
(http://i.imgur.com/dtlqD2M.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/50QNszw.jpg)
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I think you need to get the fit with the riser before you put the lams in there then clamp it down and see where you are. thin those fades way back so they can give a bit also.
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Stic,look again
he has a power lam in the stack 2nd pic.
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Yeah I see the power lam. I also see the lams against the form and the gaps are between the riser and lams. So get the riser to fit before the lams. That has always worked for me.
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yep
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Max, I know you've built waaaay more bows than me. But it is my thought that the power lam is used to assist/ease pressure off the riser fades, not take the place of them. If the power lam isn't long enough or thick enough, won't it create a hing spot right off the end of the riser?
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Beware that the front roll in the sander ist not a real cylinder, it is like a barrel.
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Originally posted by Gundog68:
Beware that the front roll in the sander ist not a real cylinder, it is like a barrel.
Good point
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yep
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Got some work done and got the right fade more gradual. I used only hand tools (rasp and sandpaper). Of course I need to work on it some more, get the left one done and flatten the belly side of the riser block, but I just want your opinion if I`m in the right direction.
(https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19225148_1372448932844827_3459696224648174247_n.jpg?oh=f44231bf52c41a978e2d15fcc35ca255&oe=59D3D457)
close up (https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19224992_1372448929511494_8501612075775870805_n.jpg?oh=efff522834109e23751cf7f3cd394079&oe=59E2D8E8)
And one more question- the riser block got shortend and now it`s 16" long (not 18"). I also have a 20" long power-lam. Shouldn`t be a problem right?
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I have heard that some guys stick down maybe 50 grit paper on the form where the riser block will go and scrub the block back and forth to get it close.
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I think your heading in the right direction. But as Stic has said, make sure you get the riser to fit nice and tight to the form. There's no sense in rushing to glue together parts that aren't ready.
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Originally posted by Crooked Stic:
I have heard that some guys stick down maybe 50 grit paper on the form where the riser block will go and scrub the block back and forth to get it close.
That's very clever...
Since I'm a teacher, I'll be going on the summer break tomorrow. I'll have plenty on time to work on it. Hopefully I'll have a new bow to shoot.
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Got some more work done. Made a dry run on the fades. looks pretty good but I`d like some professional opinion.
Plus, I`d like to know your thought on my clamping method. I`m using 2 clamps per spot on the fade to get pressure on both sides. The rest on th limb will be clamped with clamps and rubber bands.
Right fade:
(https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19366267_1373976066025447_1518711862941614374_n.jpg?oh=e9faf3770464a56786d9e64f7306b5a2&oe=59C792AA)
Other side of the right fade:
(https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19420901_1373976069358780_8162788777587781143_n.jpg?oh=4449ee1864afef74b9cfaf67f652a957&oe=59DCDAAD)
Left fade:
(https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19399214_1373976146025439_7000630835975633694_n.jpg?oh=887d4eed336ef0634824708bb6447591&oe=59D6B684)
Other side of the left fade:
(https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19275321_1373976062692114_724063403978808347_n.jpg?oh=2817b28ba7e32d975d640891e507eb13&oe=59DFEC2D)
My clamping mess....
(https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19366595_1373976156025438_2767907235535751129_n.jpg?oh=9bdeb9a27d3ab6985b0cdd527f69ec30&oe=59DD91C2)
Opinions please...
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clamp both fades and see if it looks good?
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Originally posted by Mad Max:
clamp both fades and see if it looks good?
Sorry, but I didn't get it... Is that a question? :confused:
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Clamp both sides at the same time and check it!
Sorry
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The reason I like air hose better
. Same pressure all over and will mash those dips down. And most times the part against the form needs correcting.
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I'm no expert but I do know that once you get epoxy on all of the surfaces nothing wants to stay in place. With me, the fewer clamps the better unless you are gluing square stock. I'd be tempted to make a jig that conforms to the fade area and is parallel to the bottom of your form so the clamps are straight up and down.
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Listen to Crooked... Go hose...
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Originally posted by Shredd:
Listen to Crooked... Go hose...
Imight go that way on my next on. I`ll have to make a new form and I need to buy a router and hardware for that. I`ll wait with it for now.
I worked more today and got everything to fit (so it seems. I don`t see any gaps). Madde a final dry run with everything in place- the glass, the wood cores, the pressure strips, the wedges... got it all clamped and wraped with a rubber tube. Looks good so far so I think I`ll move on to the glue up.
(https://scontent.fhfa2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19366453_1375099615913092_6004124429973872830_n.jpg?oh=9f764f3a316d87bea9769ab64905f259&oe=59D061DF)
Any thoughts before I go on?
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When you are doing the glue have a helper to keep things together.
Alwaysmhad my wife helping otherwise can become a big mess.
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If your lams are long enough while it is clamped down (dry run) pin the tip wedge past the nock.
I use 1/8" wood dowel from Lowes
I pin everything.
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Originally posted by Mad Max:
If your lams are long enough while it is clamped down (dry run) pin the tip wedge past the nock.
I use 1/8" wood dowel from Lowes
I pin everything.
I used a dowel in the middle of the riser to pin it (and the lams) to the form. Sounds like a good idea to pin the tips as well.
If you have some pics of your pin setup, it'll be great.
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And one more question- the riser block got shortend and now it`s 16" long (not 18"). I also have a 20" long power-lam. Shouldn`t be a problem right? [/QB]
You should be good here, might maybe lose a couple # but with power lam, might not.
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Hey Arachnid... I was thinking... Because you are having such issues fitting riser on this one... Maybe practice with some cheaper pcs. of wood on the next one until you get it down...
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Just pin it past the nock where it will be cut off.
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Got the bow glued up tonight... made it real slow so all the pieces will fit nicely... hope everything goes well.
Sorry for the blurry picture...
(https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19430078_1377302855692768_3417151614353956683_n.jpg?oh=08d53ba87cb30f34d3978578609f5c34&oe=59DA17AE)
I do have a question... my heat box is just a wooden frame with foam walls. I only have 1 100W or 80W bulb in it (can`t remember the Watts).
Here`s a picture of how it looks inside:
(https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19399811_1377302859026101_6123640064726307294_n.jpg?oh=659c47afe0505642da47dc3a17d0e4d7&oe=59DD5BE4)
I know it`s not enough heat but that`s what I had at the time and I figured it`s better then nothing.
How long should I keep it inside to cure?
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Oh, one more thing- Assuming everything goes as planned, I`ll need to glue a piece on the belly so I can shape it to my handle. I`ll be using a 12" long piece. Do I have to use smooth-on or can I go with 10 min epoxy (which I use for the tip overlays)?
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4 to 6 hours should have it heated well enough.
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Originally posted by kennym:
4 to 6 hours should have it heated well enough.
WoW, that was quick.... thanks Kenny.
Is it OKthat I don`t have more light bulbs?
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There are some guys not heating, just leaving to dry for 24 hours. I've done one bow without heat just to see, no probs yet. But I will probably still heat mine. I think you will be OK with it.
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Originally posted by kennym:
There are some guys not heating, just leaving to dry for 24 hours. I've done one bow without heat just to see, no probs yet. But I will probably still heat mine. I think you will be OK with it.
So now it`s 1:30 AM (Israel time) and I got the bow in the heat box for about an hour now.... guess I`ll have time to work on it at 10:00 AM... should be long enough? Just want to be sure.
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Yep, let it cool completely before you work on it.
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Kenny, don't say "yet"! That implies that there may be a problem later! :biglaugh:
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I've done 12 bows without heat and no problems with any of them. I've done different test on them and identical bows that where done with heat and haven't found any difference at all.
I will say that I am going to build a bowfishing bow and donate it to a bow fishing tournament this next spring and I will be doing heat in steps like smoothon recommends for a higher heat distortion temp because it gets HOT here in Texas and I don't wanna take any unnecessary risk. Lol
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Randy you need to make a tiller stick like they used to use , make em full draw, and test a couple bows in a hot truck til they blow up. One cold rolled and one heated. :D
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Originally posted by kennym:
Randy you need to make a tiller stick like they used to use , make em full draw, and test a couple bows in a hot truck til they blow up. One cold rolled and one heated. :D
No need, I know which one would win. Lol
My thoughts on this is that the HDT on smoothon cured with out heat is 165 f ( I believe) . I don't ever forsee shooting in temps anywhere close to that. But I also try not to leave my bows strung in a hot car or truck anything like that.
Higher HDT and a faster cure are the bonus of heat curing. Im just hard headed I guess! :knothead: :thumbsup:
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They will blow up when they have been cooked too, don't ask how I know!! :saywhat:
Black bedliner parked in shade, sun moves on ya..... :eek:
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Mine is no Taj Mahal for sure... More like a warm box then a heat box...
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Originally posted by arachnid:
Oh, one more thing- Assuming everything goes as planned, I`ll need to glue a piece on the belly so I can shape it to my handle. I`ll be using a 12" long piece. Do I have to use smooth-on or can I go with 10 min epoxy (which I use for the tip overlays)?
???
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I would use smooth on for tip and handle overlays.
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Robert is right Smooth on has been proven if used right.
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Fresh out of the form
(https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19399566_1378024642287256_306996530679358326_n.jpg?oh=3c622f3fad2cc75248098488bde83769&oe=59C33741)
And a few hours of grinding, shaping and sanding
(https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19400002_1378024645620589_8295138269263817756_n.jpg?oh=90f24c2a497fb09631ef6592a49c3b51&oe=59E35E97)
What do you guys think?
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Looks good so far from here!! Good job!
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Uh Kenny, actually the Sun stays put. It's the Earth that moves. haha!
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One thing I learned is that I need a decent lam grinder. My belt sander jig doesn`t give me accurate results. I have some difference in thickness between the limbs and I had to play with the width a bit to get it to bend evenly.
Now I`ll go on to shape the grip, tips and all the other stuff.
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Man.... you went right to work. Looking good.
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Hey Mike, the shade was what moved. :D I didn't do it but did build the bow and loan it out.....
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Here you go Buddy... Just posted this on another forum for a friend... If you got any questions just hit me up... I like this contraption because it has a very fine setting due to the angle of the fence to the pivot point and because the main load is on 1/2" pivot pin and not on a small movable adjustment screw there is a lot less chances of fence moving around on you...
I just checked the adjustment screw with a dial indicator... With an inline screw one turn gives you .060"... With fence on an angle as I have it, One turn gives you .010", which is 6 times finer, which in turn should give you better accuracy... If you make your fence angle smaller you can get even finer adjustments...
When using, I clamp the bottom half down and I also put 20- 30lbs. of weights on the pivoting section to keep it from lifting or moving around....
(https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19399271_10209623779048404_8291880955914596589_n.jpg?oh=ab9108838e417d525e8966ebe6a55ad7&oe=59E5A2CE)
(https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19260713_10209623779168407_3194493737625695613_n.jpg?oh=baaf27ae26bef4b2f2deac7dde8d565a&oe=59E0D972)
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That`s a nice jig you got there Shredd.. I guess it runs against it drum (or wheel) of your belt sander? Mine is not a cilinder but more like a barrel shape so I can`t use it.
That being said, I worked on it more tonight (one of those time I tell my wife "honey, I need to finish something in the shop. I`ll be back in 30 minutes or so.." and then I`m back 4 hours later :D ).
(https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19424534_1378207955602258_604243369962599671_n.jpg?oh=83ea39764760d44be11d37c3026e1023&oe=59E26D34) (https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19420561_1378208098935577_6118649724561593528_n.jpg?oh=fc2b7661df8e8e88fcb318c101065f98&oe=5A0FD745) (https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19424287_1378207988935588_5951649923215305988_n.jpg?oh=e85e3864890e8a6fd81b8548fa97b21d&oe=59CA0012)
(https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19437308_1378208035602250_1758750277722489298_n.jpg?oh=c4641f65be694a8e22bb0191bd66a5ac&oe=59C4FB6B)
The bow seem to be bending into a nice shape (https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19437618_1378207918935595_1679401222537320395_n.jpg?oh=77f7cc7ecba97e37ccbab36a7ddd2f56&oe=59E3C890)
Only thing left to do is finish sanding and apply a finish to it.
Well, how does she look so far?
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Looks good!
Lets see those tip wedges, you kept some good reflex in that!
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Originally posted by arachnid:
That`s a nice jig you got there Shredd.. I guess it runs against it drum (or wheel) of your belt sander? Mine is not a cilinder but more like a barrel shape so I can`t use it.
That being said, I worked on it more tonight (one of those time I tell my wife "honey, I need to finish something in the shop. I`ll be back in 30 minutes or so.." and then I`m back 4 hours later :D ).
(https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19424534_1378207955602258_604243369962599671_n.jpg?oh=83ea39764760d44be11d37c3026e1023&oe=59E26D34) (https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19420561_1378208098935577_6118649724561593528_n.jpg?oh=fc2b7661df8e8e88fcb318c101065f98&oe=5A0FD745) (https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19424287_1378207988935588_5951649923215305988_n.jpg?oh=e85e3864890e8a6fd81b8548fa97b21d&oe=59CA0012)
(https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19437308_1378208035602250_1758750277722489298_n.jpg?oh=c4641f65be694a8e22bb0191bd66a5ac&oe=59C4FB6B)
The bow seem to be bending into a nice shape (https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19437618_1378207918935595_1679401222537320395_n.jpg?oh=77f7cc7ecba97e37ccbab36a7ddd2f56&oe=59E3C890)
Only thing left to do is finish sanding and apply a finish to it. Came out a bit heavier then I wanted but nothing I can`t handle. I hope to lose a few pounds while sanding.
Well, how does she look so far?
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Oops... double post...
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Looks great to me!
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Kenny, that for you. Here`s the tip wedge, it`s 8" long and 4.4mm thick.
(https://scontent.fhfa2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19510646_1378633185559735_6769602630496302627_n.jpg?oh=b4db2fe2a8578c5a9c1904bdfe05f10d&oe=59CFC9CB)
Here are the glue lines. Looks pretty good, no? (https://scontent.fhfa2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19429730_1378633258893061_6010000709509876643_n.jpg?oh=30696012bb77d7ac7aa4b84d10a366b6&oe=59C416D9) (https://scontent.fhfa2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19554396_1378633182226402_2552479718187543576_n.jpg?oh=e22bc0fd7601f4eb87303082a8c25e3a&oe=59C63174)
The bow is basiclly done. But before I apply the finish, I`d like to lose a few pounds... the bow too :D :D
Any suggestions?
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Looking great..
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Got the bow all finished. 64" long, ended up at around 45#@28" (my scale broke so it`s kind of a guess). Kept a nice reflex, I really like it`s shape.
Riser is walnut, eucalyptus and maple. Not the fanciest bow around here (we have some very talented craftsmen on board) but I really like the way it shoots. A big thanks for all of you that helped.
(https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19437504_1379910858765301_7155587222636247254_n.jpg?oh=d6f4338cbd9615dfbd855d2539fbca7e&oe=5A0FC84F)
(https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19424074_1379910815431972_3884168650665335924_n.jpg?oh=f86e1e52251901478da445f346cfb49f&oe=59C5BEC3)
(https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19424527_1379910785431975_1032960693149810192_n.jpg?oh=9fb3160a317ae56337cc22802137c763&oe=59D6D120) (https://scontent.fsdv1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19437573_1379910845431969_1368469725688970980_n.jpg?oh=c77f4607835a965c15ac2c894eedb3ae&oe=5A0C3D6E)
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Looks like ya did just fine. :thumbsup:
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Nice! Way to stick with it!
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Originally posted by arachnid:
Kenny, that for you. Here`s the tip wedge, it`s 8" long and 4.4mm thick.
(https://scontent.fhfa2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19510646_1378633185559735_6769602630496302627_n.jpg?oh=b4db2fe2a8578c5a9c1904bdfe05f10d&oe=59CFC9CB)
Here are the glue lines. Looks pretty good, no? (https://scontent.fhfa2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19429730_1378633258893061_6010000709509876643_n.jpg?oh=30696012bb77d7ac7aa4b84d10a366b6&oe=59C416D9) (https://scontent.fhfa2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19554396_1378633182226402_2552479718187543576_n.jpg?oh=e22bc0fd7601f4eb87303082a8c25e3a&oe=59C63174)
The bow is basiclly done. But before I apply the finish, I`d like to lose a few pounds... the bow too :D :D
Any suggestions?
Tip wedges are pretty thick but working well!
Weight loss can be done by narrowing to an extent.
1/2" at tips, and 1 - 1/4 to 1 - 3/8 at fades is about as low as I go. Also rounding the edges can be a couple #
If really needed you can trap(ezoid) the limbs , mostly in mid limb a little, a couple more # off there. Go slow on all of it and watch tiller.
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Looks Great... Good job... Looks like its bending good also... How far are you drawing it back??
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Nice job
You got those riser gaps closed up good. :thumbsup:
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Originally posted by Shredd:
Looks Great... Good job... Looks like its bending good also... How far are you drawing it back??
My draw is 28".
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I did lose a few pounds during final sanding. I rounded the edges and kind of trapped the back (not a whole lot).
Kenny, the tip wedges are keeping a good reflex but do I lose some FPS due to high tip mass? What do you think?
On my previous bow I went for thinner tip wedges and it also worked fine (although it kept less reflex. I guess the optimal thickness is somewhere in between?).
As said earlier, I had to play with the limb width to get it to bend evenly so I ended up with pyramidal shaped limbs. The tips are less the 1/2" wide (so I think that helps speed a bit). The power lam is doing a good job keeping the bend off the fades.
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Looking good. :)
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:thumbsup: Well done.
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Originally posted by arachnid:
Kenny, the tip wedges are keeping a good reflex but do I lose some FPS due to high tip mass? What do you think?
On my previous bow I went for thinner tip wedges and it also worked fine (although it kept less reflex. I guess the optimal thickness is somewhere in between?).
If you want reflex why don't you put a little more in your form and just use a very thin tip wedge or none at all...
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Originally posted by Shredd:
Originally posted by arachnid:
If you want reflex why don't you put a little more in your form and just use a very thin tip wedge or none at all...
[/b]
C`ause then I`ll have to make a new form and that quite a hassle... I`ll get to it eventualy.
I really like the tip wedge method... feel like it`s shooting really nice.
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And while I`m at it... I know there`s a lot of info online (and on this great board) but is there any book or web-site that has it all concentrated? Something like TBB but for lam-bows? I`m looking for something that explains all the mechanics and little things that make a good bow.