Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Bodork on May 10, 2017, 10:37:00 PM
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Sorry it's taken so long to post anything but I wanted to get ahead on the actual build so I can give updates pretty much daily.
First of all, I want to tell you how much I've been blessed. Not only winning the bow supplies from Kenny, but last year my good friend Barry(bowlovingman) bought a new house with a new shop and he GAVE me his old shop!
It's a 12x20 insulated and wired portable building! All I had to do was have it moved. This will be my first bow build in my new shop. A little more room than my 6x10 corner of my garage!
(http://i.imgur.com/5IEkiJ7.jpg)
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:coffee:
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Awesome shop there...
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After receiving the materials from Kenny, I spent the next few evenings holding every piece of wood I had on hand up against the walnut trying to decide what would be the nicest accent. My favorite was a small piece of macassar(sp) ebony. Problem was I didn't have enough to make matching overlays. I decided to see if I could cut a piece of mesquite burl from an old chunk I've had for several years.
(http://i.imgur.com/Lo0H9lm.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/rAaEzbV.jpg)
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Oh my this is going to be fun!
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Nice shop there.
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I'll be watching this one!!
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Awesome and congratulations on the new shop
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Nice shop
Can't beat burl wood
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Can't beat burl wood
And if that side looks that good, what is Mike slicing off the other way? He's holdin out on us, I bet the slice he is taking off is even better!! :bigsmyl:
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:campfire:
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Thanks for the compliments on my shop guys! I'm getting things like I like 'em inside. There's crap everywhere! You'll see that in the pics to come. How about my home made window mount solar heater?! Works best when the outside temp nears 80!
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Well bless my soul! Look what God had hidden in that gnarly old door stop piece of wood! There's a lesson here. Don't judge!
(http://i.imgur.com/TLIz8SY.jpg)
I wet them down a little to bring out the character.
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At this point my plan was to make a few overlays for the back of the riser and a stripe for the riser itself. Or should I make a crecent in the belly side of the riser?...These kind of decisions give me a headache.
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Nice
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All of the above :bigsmyl:
Looking good so far. Can't wait to see more.
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That wood is awesome..
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Thanks Roy. Hope it's strong enough to hold together. Burls are usually not all that strong.
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I managed to cut a chunk big enough for a crescent.
(http://i.imgur.com/UxMzF5u.jpg)
I use a plexiglass template so I can see where I want the cut to be.
(http://i.imgur.com/AHzhegu.jpg)
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I had an old walnut block on hand so I cut the riser shape out of it and cut the curve for the crescent. After much thought, I decided to got with a straight stripe. Because the fades deflex so much, I couldn't just cut the whole block in straight pieces. The stripe would have gone off the ramp them back on at the fades so I cut the belly ramps and then cut a straight line where I wanted the stripe.
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Then I laid the pieces out and looked at them under the plexiglass.
(http://i.imgur.com/0qfyfOs.jpg)
I am using two .030 maple stripes with .040 mesquite on each side of the wide stripe. The wide stripe looks too wide in relation to the riser to me so I narrowed it a bit
(http://i.imgur.com/lq3WkTc.jpg)
I think this will look better.
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Looking good Mike! Can't wait !
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Yes
Looking good
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Gonna be a looker.
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I was going to use a piece of extra mordillo that Kenny sent along for the stripe between the maple but decided mesquite would look better so I had to make a few veneers. This is how I make them.
(http://i.imgur.com/EMliV5g.jpg)
I use a 1-1/2" drum sander on my drill press. I clamp a square piece of phenolic (wood would work) to the drill press table. The clamp in the back of the picture stays in place. The clamp nearest you will be loosened so the phenoilc can be moved closer to the drum. I start where the stock will barely be sanded, make a few passes and then loosen the front clamp and move the phenolic very slightly closer to the drum. Make a few more passes turning the stock over so both sides get sanded.
(http://i.imgur.com/YK8EKwx.jpg)
I push the stock until I can grab it and pull it through. Try to maintain slow steady speed and don't try to take off too much material at a time. I have heard this is not very good on drill press bearings because of the sideways pressure so I don't try to 'hog' a piece through.
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Got all the piece ready to glue up.
(http://i.imgur.com/lq3WkTc.jpg)
I wanted to show this picture with the plexiglass form on the wood.
(http://i.imgur.com/PLK41NE.jpg)
Look closely at each end of the wide stripe and you'll notice that it doesn't quite reach the ramp. Although I wish the stripe were longer it was the longest piece I could get from the block. I'm not too worried about it because I will be able to curve my ramps just a bit more so the stripe will be long enough. The form is slightly bigger than need be anyway. Notice that all the pieces have the center line drawn on so I'm sure I get all the pieces lined up when I glue them together.
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:thumbsup:
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So Here is the riser all clamped up with epoxy. Remember what I said about marking a center line to make sure things stay lined up?
(http://i.imgur.com/BgQAQFn.jpg)
It's really not all that important!
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Took the clamps off and drew the ramps on from the template.
(http://i.imgur.com/FYj0ziG.jpg)
Let's see if I can get that middle stripe that slid of center back where it belongs.
(http://i.imgur.com/2u3eJQQ.jpg)
That was easy! Here's how it looks with the ramps rough cut and the sides cleaned up a little.
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Awesome
:coffee:
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Just wait.....it's about to get good!!!!
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Next I sand an angle on one end of each veneer and lams and super glue them together.
(http://i.imgur.com/7x7cD2t.jpg)
I clamp a block of wood on top of them while the glue cures. Wax paper keeps the block from sticking to the lams.
(http://i.imgur.com/mr2iRjO.jpg)
I butt them alongside a piece of glass to keep them straight.
(http://i.imgur.com/I9nywLR.jpg)
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Then the glue is sanded off with a block and 60 grit sandpaper. Be very careful with the thin veneers so they don't grab the sandpaper and break.
(http://i.imgur.com/DhU6AUB.jpg)
The first thing you should do when handling glass is run your finger down the side to remove any splinters. NOT REALLY! Just making sure you were paying attention. First thing to do is tape the shiny side so you don't scratch the glass.
(http://i.imgur.com/qnKokmH.jpg)
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Cool build along. I'm excited to see the end result.
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Now I set the glass and lams on my form in th order I am going to glue them up.
(http://i.imgur.com/9mZFbGE.jpg)
Then I clamp the riser in place on the lams.
(http://i.imgur.com/1a36QwD.jpg)
I am looking for gaps along the riser where it lays on the lams. I don't have a jig so I have to do this by hand. Notice the two black marks on each end of the riser. These are spots where the riser is tight against the lams. Kind of hard to tell in the pic because there is a black sharpie mark along the riser. These high spots need to be sanded so the rest of the riser lays tight. Gotta do this real slow.
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Sanded a little bit and it already lays down better. See how tight it lays beyond my original black marks. The arcs I drew indicate low spots that aren't tight yet. I don't want to sand between these lines.
(http://i.imgur.com/cTW6f68.jpg)
This close up makes it easier to see what I'm talking about. It looks good to the left of the arc I drew but the center of the riser has a gap. To fix that I sand the part that is already touching tight. This allows the middle to lay down more.
(http://i.imgur.com/XnoG0Q6.jpg)
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This is the right side with my marks.
(http://i.imgur.com/A7NCJfs.jpg)
Here it is after a little work.
(http://i.imgur.com/013lGTJ.jpg)
Still some teeny lows where the circles are. A jig would save a lot of time here!
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Lmao!! That's almost the exact same technique I used for getting my template adjusted.
Lots of hash marks with and scribbles all over.
Looking good!!
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Same picture as above but I wanted to point out a few things. Notice the black sharpie marks on the sides of the lams. These marks are the center of my lams. Keep the lams in the same place during the entire process because moving them if they are tapered can effect how the riser lays down. Also notice my angled splices in my lams are not directly above one another. I like to stagger the splices. Also, I usually know which end of the riser I would like to be the top, especially if I have fancy stripes, so I shift one splice toward the bottom tip. Putting the splice off center towards the bottom tip makes the bottom limb slightly stronger.
(http://i.imgur.com/013lGTJ.jpg)
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Good stuff!
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Looking good Mike !! Just a note, if the riser is a true radius with no extra curves, a swing jig on a bandsaw with a sharp blade is wonderful. Usually sand the saw marks off and she is really close to ready.
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Now on to the belly fades. I get them close and then I use a block to really thin them down.
(http://i.imgur.com/5GKeuR5.jpg)
I like to run my thumb along the back of the riser and finger down the ramp to feel any low spots. When using two different woods one is usually softer than the other and a dip may occur. In this case the mesquite burl sanded much faster than the walnut. Couldn't see it but I could feel the difference. (http://i.imgur.com/ihu6CHI.jpg)
Then I clamp the riser back on the form and run my finger down the ramp. When my finger goes from the ramp to the lams, I don't want to feel a bump.
(http://i.imgur.com/9xTJ8zS.jpg)
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Sometimes I run a sanding block down the ramp to smooth it more. Don't go up the ramp!
(http://i.imgur.com/CKzdwA6.jpg)
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Gonna clamp it all together one last time.
(http://i.imgur.com/e0eVqFv.jpg)
What's that masking tape doing on your form you ask? I'm gonna let you in on an ancient Bodork secret. If you can't get the riser to fit like you want by sanding it, a little tape on the form will lift the lams to the riser!
(http://i.imgur.com/kpuVBz9.jpg)
I can live with this.
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:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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looking good
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Get that thing in the oven and let the real fun begin!!!
Looking good Mike!
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Thanks guys! Barry-patience my little grasshopper! I've got to make this build a long last. I'm going to Colorado this weekend so I won't get to work on the bow.
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Glue up is one of those rare times that I clean everything off of my table. I put masking paper on it to keep the epoxy off.
(http://i.imgur.com/cFIlw4p.jpg)
I run a sanding block along the edge of the lams to get these splinters off. If you don't they will end up in your epoxy.
(http://i.imgur.com/KwMCdcM.jpg)
Then I carefully blow all of the surfaces off with my air compressor. When all of thee components are clean, I stack them in the order that they will be epoxied.
(http://i.imgur.com/FNtisVq.jpg)
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Then I flip everything over so the front sides are facing up cause they get glued first. Double check your veneer if you are using clear glass so you get the side you want to show facing up. It will be against the glass when you flip it back over.
(http://i.imgur.com/Qnsclip.jpg)
I spread the epoxy with a small foam roller rather than a putty knife. Saves a lot of epoxy. A friend of mine worked at Great Plains Archery for a stint and he told me that's how they did it. I butter two pieces at once then flip one over.
(http://i.imgur.com/rDINeCP.jpg)
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Looking good
Have a good time
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Before I mate them together, I look down the length of the lams across the light and make sure there are no dry spots.
(http://i.imgur.com/YLB4Guo.jpg)
The bottom stack is all glued up and ready to be moved to the form.
(http://i.imgur.com/X71uQRm.jpg)
Butter the bottom of the riser real good.
(http://i.imgur.com/UYZagBx.jpg)
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Lookin good Mike!!
I write out on the lam at the tip s to keep track of what I want showing .
I can't wait to see this bow !!
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This is my home made clamp to hold the riser and bottom lams in place while the belly lams are being buttered and taped down. This thing is worth its weight in gold!
(http://i.imgur.com/vgXT3NN.jpg)
I forgot to mention that the entire form is covered with clear plastic wrap before any lams are put on it. Here is a picture for the bottom lams and riser clamped in place. Even with the clamp, the riser will want to slide around a little. Might have to adjust the clamp a little till it all settles into place.
(http://i.imgur.com/qdlkEaA.jpg)
When the belly lams are buttered I use strapping tape to pull them tightly against the bottom lams.
(http://i.imgur.com/ADmn5PT.jpg)
Didn't look like enough epoxy? It's already starting to ooze out!
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Lots of good tips!
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Then another layer of clear plastic to keep from gluing the pressure strip or air hose to the limbs.
(http://i.imgur.com/uSYBDnD.jpg)
I almost didn't mix enough epoxy!
(http://i.imgur.com/3XCQOHi.jpg)
The pressure strip, air hose and top form are in place. I make sure the pressure strip is centered and the air hose is also centered before I add any air. I don't want the hose pushing out to one side.
(http://i.imgur.com/ASdG7Nz.jpg)
I also want to add make sure the belly lams don't stick up above the riser ramps. The hose will fold the ends of the lams over the riser and create a void along the top of the ramp.
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I add those little pieces of wood along the ramps to force more pressure there. Just makes me feel better.
Here she is out of the oven.
(http://i.imgur.com/23IedRN.jpg)
And free from the form.
(http://i.imgur.com/aQBNU90.jpg)
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Looking good. Can't wait to see her cleaned up.
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nice work
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Oh yes!!! Now to the exciting creative stuff you do so well!!! Scoot to the edge of your seats boys... it's about to get real
Interesting!!!
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You're gonna have to wait a little longer Barry. First more of the same old boring stuff.
This is how I clean the epoxy off. I use my belt sander and hold the limbs at a slight angle. I am careful not to get to the glass. The epoxy sands off real fast.
(http://i.imgur.com/NmFWHnp.jpg)
Then I clean up the edges a little with the disc.
(http://i.imgur.com/M6v65ub.jpg)
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Now to mark center I make marks in the middle of the limbs at the center of the bow, at the fades, and at the tips.
(http://i.imgur.com/LIq8iJk.jpg)
I have a laser line that I tape above my bench and shine on the bow. The bow is squared up with the light and then I make sure the line goes through all of the marks I made then I clamp the bow to the bench to keep it from moving/
(http://i.imgur.com/Zx3UFWZ.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/21O78fK.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/D9bMPLA.jpg)
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I didn't take a picture but then I carefully make red marks along the laser line at about 8-19 inch intervals. I then clamp a piece of glass along the red marks and draw a red line the length of the bow.
(http://i.imgur.com/g1mVBgS.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/12TT0Y5.jpg)
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I mark the center of the bow and the end of the fades across the tape.
(http://i.imgur.com/TaPz1kp.jpg)
Then I clamp my limb profile pattern on the limb with the red line going through the center of the sight holes. My pattern has marks at the fades too so know where to put it.
(http://i.imgur.com/5hLaCzw.jpg)
I mark the edges with a blue pen.
(http://i.imgur.com/XF4DF6r.jpg)
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Another unorthodox thing I do is use my table saw to cut the limb profiles. The reason I use the red line in the center is because after I have cut one side of the limb, the red line reminds me to stay on the outside of the other blue line. I have almost cut the wrong side of the blue lines before. And it is kind of scary taking a picture with one hand and cutting the limb with the other!
(http://i.imgur.com/FrvAxET.jpg)
Then I sand the edges real close to the line.
(http://i.imgur.com/Foy600p.jpg)
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I've seen several guys post now about using a table saw to cut limb profile. I just cant bring myself to do it yet.
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What model of laser is that? I need one!
I've trimmed limbs on the tablesaw a time or two...gives me the willies! :scared:
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Good stuff Mike!!
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Originally posted by Bvas:
I've seen several guys post now about using a table saw to cut limb profile. I just cant bring myself to do it yet.
I have done that with an abrasive wheel in place of the blade and it worked pretty good. That was with a flat bow and must be easier than an RD.
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And, the pictures finally loaded and it's looking good. :thumbsup:
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It's a little scary at first. Just keep the limb flat against the table at the blade and watch the part you have already cut past the blade so you don't accidentally get it into the blade again.
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The laser is just an inexpensive Stanley from Home Depot.
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Pretty cool, Mike..
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Thanks all!
At this point you could really do several different things to the bow. I decided to go ahead and file some string grooves in the limbs. I mark where they go and start be holding my chainsaw file at a real steep angle to start the groove.
(http://i.imgur.com/euDXihz.jpg)
Then I move pretty much straight up and down.
(http://i.imgur.com/uiCyCgS.jpg)
Then I angle the file towards the riser and a toward the middle of the limb. (never mind the multiple lines on the tape)
(http://i.imgur.com/gd2UTAQ.jpg)
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I clamp the bow to my bench like this when I do the grooves. Keeps the limb from following the file up and down and lets it cut faster.
(http://i.imgur.com/SNVjW77.jpg)
Then I block sand the edges of the limbs a little to remove any splinters. They will always find your hand when you slide the string into the grooves when you string the bow.
(http://i.imgur.com/dE54V2l.jpg)
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I prefer to add the overlays and other adornments to the riser while it is still in block form. I like to shape it all at once so I can see how it flows.
On this bow, I decided to try something a little different on the piece that I am putting at the bottom of the riser. Don't try this at home fellas! Instead of blending it into the limb, I am going to try a live edge. I figure if I don't like it, I can always blend it in. Here is the piece of wood I chose.
(http://i.imgur.com/sajTOz5.jpg)
I cut the piece the width of the riser. I liked the crescent shape of the live edge.
(http://i.imgur.com/8mO8M8S.jpg)
It's quite chunky now but it won't stay that way long.
(http://i.imgur.com/MiMaCwR.jpg)
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Then I laid the wood on its side and held the bow on top of it. I moved it around till I thought I had plenty of stock to work with on both ends and drew line.
(http://i.imgur.com/12DQu2e.jpg)
There's the line I drew. I will be using the piece on the left after it's cut.
(http://i.imgur.com/fAQ08Hj.jpg)
Here is roughly how the piece will be sanded out when the riser is shaped.
(http://i.imgur.com/yWJEB8y.jpg)
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Then, out of the blue, I decided to cut the shelf in. I use a hack saw to cut the initial arrow rest.
(http://i.imgur.com/G9S7J8C.jpg)
Then my old bench top band saw cuts the side plate cause I don't want to ruin a 93" blade.
(http://i.imgur.com/6Ao171c.jpg)
Beautiful! Just like melted butter. Okay, maybe like burnt toast.
(http://i.imgur.com/futVntJ.jpg)
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Then I use my multi tool to cut some of the radius.
(http://i.imgur.com/VCzaRM5.jpg)
The rest of the shaping will be with a file and sanders.
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Back to the overlay. I take the tape off where it goes and sand the glass with a block and 60 grit.
(http://i.imgur.com/fEuCjMu.jpg)
I clamp the bow the bench after I blow the dust off.
(http://i.imgur.com/OX7fXlN.jpg)
Plenty of epoxy on both surfaces.
(http://i.imgur.com/giaHllf.jpg)
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I use strips of rubber pond liner to hold the overlay to the riser and a spring clamp to hold the rubber in place.
(http://i.imgur.com/KF4djWr.jpg)
Since I plan to leave the live edge, I tried to remove as much epoxy as I could from the glass.
(http://i.imgur.com/LJFJ6gf.jpg)
All glued up!
(http://i.imgur.com/SpGAueC.jpg)
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cool
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Did I not tell you boys to hang on? It's starting to get real! Did you see those lines he drew on that riser? Gonna be a looker for sure, live edge and all!!! Bring it Mike!!
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As I held the bow in my hand in block form after the glue up I realized I have a conundrum on my hands. Even without overlays on the back of the riser, it was way too wide for my hands. I didn't want to cut into the stripe. I figured I'd shape the riser a bit and see how it fit. Got it close to where I wanted to stop.
(http://i.imgur.com/tbktG3K.jpg)
I could still barely get my fingers around it. Not good.
(http://i.imgur.com/OrXWiXN.jpg)
Remember when I was making the riser and I had to move the stripe up the ramps because it was so short? Well, that just came back to haunt me. If the stripe was longer I could have moved it more to the back of the riser and therefore I could've taken more off the belly without cutting into the stripe.
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At this point I figure I have two options: cut into the stripe and live with it or sand into the back of the riser and make it look like a take down. I sent a text or two to Barry and he said go for the take down look. That was my first choice also. You'll either love it or hate it. Haven't done this before so bear with me. Here goes: My initial sand
(http://i.imgur.com/W6u8cPi.jpg)
Don't know if it will explode or not but at lest it's going to fit my hand better!
(http://i.imgur.com/PIT9yBJ.jpg)
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Took a little more off. I'm starting to like it!
(http://i.imgur.com/eEepj4f.jpg)
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Hmmmm. That's another way to skin the cat ;)
I'm curious as to how that will change the shooting dynamics of the bow. If you normally put overlays on.....does this mean that you have moved the throat position about 1/2-3/4"?
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I think he will be happy with how it shoots, will be somewhere between stock and the pro stock.... :D
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Usaly for me the riser is 2 in. belly to back. then I add the lams and glass and overlays. So about 2.25-37 Shaped throat is about 1.5 - 1.75 front to belly. Thumb and index touching.
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Bvas, that thought never crossed my mind but I guess the limbs will be 1/2" or so further away from me. I have shot the bow several times and I can't tell any difference than any others I've made..
Mike, I'm not smart enough to measure things before I glue them up! As it sits, the throat is about 1-1/2" front to belly. Fits me a lot better.
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I strung the bow and checked weight. On my scale it shows right at 43#@28". I not going to take much much more off of the limbs unless I have to. Now on to the tip overlays. I do mine like the cave men did and shape them after they are on the bow. I did feather the phenolic first though.
(http://i.imgur.com/HR4Y8GS.jpg)
I use my belt sander to start the feathering process.
(http://i.imgur.com/LGepSBg.jpg)
Careful not to get into the glass.
(http://i.imgur.com/WxSjscC.jpg)
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Then a little file work.
(http://i.imgur.com/Oq9AFFJ.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/6JXI49E.jpg)
Then I use my disc sander to shape the end of the overlay.
(http://i.imgur.com/IdWHHbc.jpg)
Sorry I lost my pics of filing the string grooves. A little more filing and sanding.
(http://i.imgur.com/oVtDEzT.jpg)
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I'll stop here and put some sealer on them then sand and fine tune them later.
(http://i.imgur.com/RSVDgW5.jpg)
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I shaped the back of the riser a little more. Now for some overlays.
(http://i.imgur.com/eEepj4f.jpg)
black glass and mesquite burl.
(http://i.imgur.com/OUPuJ89.jpg)
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This was a bear because of the curves in the back of the riser.
(http://i.imgur.com/3I6dQR5.jpg)
Like I said earlier, I prefer to glue the overlays on while the riser is in block form so I can shape them along with the rest of the riser. This was a little unexpected. What a mess!
(http://i.imgur.com/7q5eNZn.jpg)
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I rough shaped them with my belt sander.
(http://i.imgur.com/9zVXNE3.jpg)
Then I used my dremel tool to do some more sanding.
(http://i.imgur.com/XDXxrYI.jpg)
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Wasn't expecting overlays.
Can't wait to see the finished project.
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Did a little more sanding on the overlays and discovered the top one didn't adhere good in the concave part of the riser. My clamp had come off but I didn't know it until it was too late.
(http://i.imgur.com/XPjzCYL.jpg)
I'll just shorten it until I get to where it is glued good.
(http://i.imgur.com/Wjr8cQh.jpg)
Shorter than I would like but I'm gonna live with it!
(http://i.imgur.com/c2RzLjq.jpg)
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I've never been a big fan of shelves that are left this blocky.
(http://i.imgur.com/N8sSMBp.jpg)
So I'll take it to the belt sander.
(http://i.imgur.com/HrqZxrt.jpg)
That suits me a lot better.
(http://i.imgur.com/Szony44.jpg)
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Now the riser is about ready for some sealer.
(http://i.imgur.com/7vWnL56.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/tFUbbxM.jpg)
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That riser is going to pop once you get some finish on :thumbsup:
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That looks very nice. Kenny's stuff came to some fine hands.
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Sorry about the delay, had some other projects that needed tending to. Before the sealer, I need to address the worm holes and voids in the burl heel on the riser.
(http://i.imgur.com/gUbYhNF.jpg)
I decided to fill them with man made turquoise. Just fill with super glue and sprinkle the turquoise on.
(http://i.imgur.com/iFno3zT.jpg)
The man made stuff sands real easy. Different size grits add interest.
(http://i.imgur.com/5VvNeCo.jpg)
Then a little finer powder and sand again.(no picture). Then I filled the remaining voids with copper powder for a little bling.
(http://i.imgur.com/Y8LF90r.jpg)
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Hard to see the copper in this crummy picture but it will really show when the finish is on.
(http://i.imgur.com/G3dSQtO.jpg)
Now I can apply the sealer and sand it all off.
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Man that is cool!
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Pretty cool
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yeah that turquoise idea is legit. cant wait.
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Looking good... Can't wait to see the end result...
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Just doing your thing
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Man....you're pulling out all the tricks on this one. Looking good!!
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Spent the last few evenings sanding the sealer off. I'm posting some pics of some not so great glue lines on the back of the riser. The thing that worries me is their location. What do you guys think? I've shot probably 100 or so arrows through it and it looks the same as when I started shooting. I considered putting some take down bolts on it and calling it my fake-down.
(http://i.imgur.com/bG2Kio4.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/tvgIaAb.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/mACMNED.jpg)
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While the glue lines are probably more visible than you would like, I suspect that there is actually glue in there that will hold.
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Well, I'm going to shoot it tomorrow at a 3-d shoot and the temp is supposed to reach 104. I will find out if it's going to hold before I put a finish on it!
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Will your oily sweat stain the grip before you finish it?
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yep
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Well, the bow survived 102 degrees today better than I did! Wow it was hot! Not only did my sweat darken the grip but add the bug repellent and I definitely have more work to do before I apply the finish. Not only that I saw something else I want to do. A friend was shooting a Great plains swift one piece and the back is shaped much like this bow. Well, his had overlay accents on the back of the limbs where the take down hardware would be. I think I'm going to do that to this bow as well. The bow shoots very well, my arrows were just a tad stiff but I think I am going to like it a lot when it is all finished.
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I'm also thinking about making the ends of the limbs rounder. What do you think?
(http://i.imgur.com/LphduUQ.jpg)
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:notworthy:
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Originally posted by Bodork:
I'm also thinking about making the ends of the limbs rounder. What do you think?
(http://i.imgur.com/LphduUQ.jpg)
Yep, I tend to not round stuff enough.... the first time. :D
But you can't put it back on either... :thumbsup:
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Thanks for the encouragement Kenny!!
I'm posting a picture of the shelf and side plate after I shot the bow without any rest material. Shows wear on the side and shelf. Wonder if I should do some more shaping or just adjust the string nock and brace height after the rest material is on?
(http://i.imgur.com/eBtbmnc.jpg)
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Oh, and I made more work for myself this evening. I glued a few pieces of mesquite on the end of the limbs as accents.
(http://i.imgur.com/PUACw4C.jpg)
I left them big with the live edges and will shape them when the epoxy cures.
(http://i.imgur.com/456CXP7.jpg)
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:thumbsup:
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Here are the overlays shaped and filled. Left the live edge also. I also rounded the limb ends a little more.
(http://i.imgur.com/xDgmMIp.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/LDCk1MV.jpg)
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Got her sprayed yesterday with thunderbird flat epoxy and a final mist coat. I'll string it up and get more pics in a day or so. Kenny supplied some exceptional wood and streakless glass! Thanks Kenny!!
(http://i.imgur.com/821UlGV.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/V4N5Iej.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/msRlY9r.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/ivVhpH6.jpg)
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Nice build. You put a lot of cool ideas in one bow and it turned out beautiful :thumbsup:
Kudos to Kenny for providing great material and to you for turning them into a work of art :clapper:
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Wow Mike , just wow!!
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That's a beauty!
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It is stunning! Great job Mike.
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Absolutelly stunning! :clapper:
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That's an awesome looking bow! Great job!
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Gooolllllyyyyy!!! :thumbsup:
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Looking goooood. :)
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Yes sir another nice Bodork one. Combo nice. Those tips look great.
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Very nice.. ^5
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Very cool
nice job
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Beautiful as always! An artist who happens to build bows!!!
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I've thoroughly enjoyed your build along! Thank you for posting. Almost makes me think I could do it too!
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Thanks for the compliments guys! I promise I will get some braced and full draw pics up soon.