Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Lee Lobbestael on March 29, 2017, 05:25:00 AM
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Hi Guys. I have been making and hunting with selfbows for about ten years and have always wanted to get into building laminated bows but have been a little intimidated by the whole process. To make a self bow you basically just start going to town on it with your draw knife! Not alot of precision measurements and squaring is involved, so this is a whole new world to me. I decided to do this as a buildalong in hopes that you guys with experience can steer me clear of mistakes before I come to them, and so that others just starting out can learn from the mistakes I do fall into. I took the advise of several tradgangers and contacted Kenny. He has been a huge help already and I ordered lams ang smooth on from him last night. I also printed off his plans for a 64" r/d bow. I'm shooting for a 50 pound bow at my 28" draw. Here is what I have so far. (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/Mobile%20Uploads/20170323_185931_zpshrkqfuag.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170323_185931_zpshrkqfuag.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/Mobile%20Uploads/20170323_191601_zpsulpgxqdf.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170323_191601_zpsulpgxqdf.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/Mobile%20Uploads/20170323_192213_zpsxgrpecak.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170323_192213_zpsxgrpecak.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/Mobile%20Uploads/20170324_202731_zps66uhiohw.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170324_202731_zps66uhiohw.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/Mobile%20Uploads/20170324_202731_zps66uhiohw.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170324_202731_zps66uhiohw.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/Mobile%20Uploads/20170325_111021_zpsw7aeptgn.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170325_111021_zpsw7aeptgn.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/Mobile%20Uploads/20170325_120715_zpsjfapocmn.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170325_120715_zpsjfapocmn.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/Mobile%20Uploads/20170325_142104_zpsihgpvr1j.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170325_142104_zpsihgpvr1j.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/Mobile%20Uploads/20170325_143259_zpsxdpen2o3.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170325_143259_zpsxdpen2o3.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/Mobile%20Uploads/20170327_193333_zpsrmbru0xk.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170327_193333_zpsrmbru0xk.jpg.html) I'm missing a few pictures because my 4 year old had my phone at the time but I did alot of sanding on the template and used a router with a guide to clean up my form after roughing it out on the bandsaw. I used 3 pieces of 1/2" marine plywood for my form and 1/4" ply wood for my template. I'm using the rubber band method so I will need to drill holes and glue dowels in next. What diameter dowels do you rubber band guys use? Also where do you get your rubber inner tubes?
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Don't bother to glue the dowels; tension will hold them in place. I usually use 1/4" dowels that stick out each side about an inch (3.5" overall) and just tap them through. I started with larger dowels but realized I didn't need to waste the wood or the money. The dowels are spaced 1" down from the edge:
(http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b282/kenhulme/My%20Yanghai/MarkIIForm-Symmetrical_zpsad1756fb.jpg) (http://s21.photobucket.com/user/kenhulme/media/My%20Yanghai/MarkIIForm-Symmetrical_zpsad1756fb.jpg.html)
Here's a dry fit test showing lams partially banded in place while they dry to this extreme shape:
(http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b282/kenhulme/My%20Yanghai/FirstSymmetricCore_zpsaf53fa28.jpg) (http://s21.photobucket.com/user/kenhulme/media/My%20Yanghai/FirstSymmetricCore_zpsaf53fa28.jpg.html)
I use 3/4" to 1" wide rings cut from bicycle innertubes -- the wide/fat "cruiser" tubes, not the skinny racing tubes. Visit your local bike repair shop, they'll gladly let you scrounge their trash cans.
I use two rings "figure eighted" together. When applying the rings to a glue-up, I alternate hooking and pulling the rings over from one side of the form and then the other, to even out the stress of pulling sideways across the top of the layup.
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(http://i.imgur.com/iTCaGtD.jpg)
I used 1/2" dowels spaced about 2-1/2" apart and down about 2" from the edge and let them stick out about 1-1/4". I would rather spend a little extra on dowels than risk having one break during glue up.
The pocket in the center serves dual purpose. One it allows you to clamp the riser in place to help prevent it from slipping. But it also allows you to clamp the form to work table while wrapping bands.
Used semi and ag tire tubes are another source that can be found for free. Just cut into long 1" strips and wrap back and forth. Have a staple gun handy so that if a band breaks you can just tack it down and continue on.
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Kennys plans look awesome! When I got them from him in 2009 they were hand written.. Kenny is a good guy and was very helpful when I was first starting out. One tool I highly recommend is a quality dial caliper.. One mistake I made (2 times) was I bought inexpensive digital calipers from my local home improvement store.. I did upgrade to a better set of Igaging digitals that were pretty good for 2 years..I ended up with 2 used Mitutoyo dial calipers that are perfectly accurate on my known standards. If you don't have one get a hard back "log book".. In it write down every part of you build, like riser legnth, taper rate, fiberglass, taper and a parallel thicknesses..
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Starett digital calipers are the best. That's what I use. You only really need that for checking lam stack, but if your ordering the lams pre done(I grind my own) I'd save the money and buy something else fun. :)
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I try to buy enough tapers and parallels for 6-10 bows at a time. I have tapers and parallels from vendors that were....not precise.. I once got some parallels that were 006 off side to side.. Most of my order was pretty good, not sure what happened when he ran these thru his sander . I had to run 10 or 12 of them them thru my mini drum sander to use them, then they were not the 030 that I needed. The parallels were not from Kenny.
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SO you guys cut 3/4"-1" cross sections of the rubber tubes? Kinda like thick rubber bands? I'm off to the local millworks place to pick out a piece for a riser after work today. Yeah Kenny's plans are really nice.
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I'm debating on using a pin through lams and into form and riser during glue up to keep things from slipping around. But with a clamp on the handle screwed down snug, will slippage even be an issue?
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Kenny is who got me started when I made my first glass bow. Top notch guy and a top notch bow!! If you plan on making more than one bow do like Robert said and write EVERYTHING down!! Takes the guess work out later!
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Originally posted by Lee Lobbestael:
SO you guys cut 3/4"-1" cross sections of the rubber tubes? Kinda like thick rubber bands?
Some guys use "rings", usually when using bike tubes. I just cut long continuous strips out of big tire tubes. Then kinda serpentine it back and forth on the dowels.
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Originally posted by Lee Lobbestael:
But with a clamp on the handle screwed down snug, will slippage even be an issue?
Slippage can always be an issue :laughing:
I would suggest multiple clamps on the handle. If not placed perfectly, a single clamp can actually cause things to slide.
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I love seeing these build-alongs.
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So this is probably going to be a fairly slow build along just to warn you guys. I'm figuring everything out as I go and with a few kids at home and working overtime, I only get a short time to work on it each day so bear with me. Right now I'm kind of compiling materials. I ordered lams from Kenny and just ordered some thin strips of aluminum for pressure strips. Last night I bought a piece of walnut for a riser but I'm not sure I want to use it. I didn't have my template on me so I couldn't check the size and when I got home I saw that it was only just wide and long enough. If I plane it smooth it will be less than 1 1/2" wide. I kind of want to use an exotic wood for the riser anyway. Tonight i'm planning to buy 1/2" dowels and maybe drill holes in my form to slide the dowels through. One step at a time!
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These build alongs are fascinating! I've got 4 kids under the age of 6, so my time is pretty much spoken for too. Thanks for sharing the process! Maybe there will be time when mine are older. Maybe the boy will want to help :)
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Tonight I put the pegs into my form. I drilled 1/2" holes 2" apart and 2" down from the top of the form and tapped 4" dowels through. (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/Mobile%20Uploads/20170330_213253_zps6qdnwzba.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170330_213253_zps6qdnwzba.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/Mobile%20Uploads/20170330_214624_zpsju9kye2l.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170330_214624_zpsju9kye2l.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/Mobile%20Uploads/20170330_222118_zps4xcnpkq3.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170330_222118_zps4xcnpkq3.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/Mobile%20Uploads/20170330_222157_zpsodhzdvmw.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170330_222157_zpsodhzdvmw.jpg.html)
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Lookin good Lee!! When is glue up? Dry run first to check glue lines...
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I pin my riser to my form, that take's care of the back lams.
I pin my belly lams to the riser too.
Everything slides around when you get glue on it
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Thanks Kenny! When I get my lams from ya I'll work on skiving them together and then I can make my riser. I'm hoping to glue next week. I think I'll have a lot of questions once I get the lams. Tonight i'm going to stop by the bike shop to see if I can get ahold of some inner tubes. Tomorrow I'm going to go to a different millworks place and see if I can find some zebra wood for a riser. Mad Max You pin the belly lams to the riser? Do you or anyone have a pic of this? Is there any concern with splitting the laminations or the glass by doing this?
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Good grief they should have been there days ago. I'll check tracking when I get home!
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Thanks! I like the idea of pinning everything while its dry fit on the form and than just stacking everything on the pins during glue up. That way nothing can move.
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I guess it is on time, supposed to deliver 4/01
Here is the tracking report....
Your item arrived at our ALLEN PARK, MI 48101 destination facility on March 31, 2017 at 12:28 pm. The item is currently in transit to the destination.
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Got my lams, and glue in the mail saturday! Thanks Kenny. I also picked up a big chunk of zebrawood for the riser. Wow they don't give that stuff away! And friday I dumpster dived at the bike shop to get 4 inner tubes. Now things should start moving along pretty good. Tonight I hope to skive the two bottom lams together and make a template for my handle. Dumb question here, the tapered lamination goes below the riser right? Also, my father in law is a wood worker and he read an article abot a guy sprinkling table salt in his glue after he spreads and it keeps everything from sliding around. HE said it disolves and doesn't hurt anything. Have any of you guys tried this? (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/Mobile%20Uploads/20170401_134937_zpslw6lorsi.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170401_134937_zpslw6lorsi.jpg.html)
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If your making a standard riser with ramps...Then Any lamination thicker than 0.070 needs to go under the riser. Not sure about the salt?
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Yes put the .002 taper and a parallel under the riser and the .001 and a parAllel up the ramps. The .001 taper will be the thinner one. Never heard about salt trick but I don't think I'll try it. We try to keep everything clean so I'd hate to put something in there on purpose. :)
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Salt probably only disolves in a water based glue.
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I use a 1/8" wood dowel
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Ok sorry this is going so slow. Last night I cut and spliced the bottom two lams together. My father in law is a wood worker and he convinced me that splicing them horizontally like this provides a longer and stronger glue joint than vertically. I also saw it done this way by Dave Watson (I believe his name is) online and it worked good for him. I glued them with loctite two part epoxy and it said to wait 24 hours before stressing the joint, so I set them aside and began working on the handle.
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/Mobile%20Uploads/20170403_181921_zpsbtzyszdd.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170403_181921_zpsbtzyszdd.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/Mobile%20Uploads/20170403_182112_zpsopwqesl2.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170403_182112_zpsopwqesl2.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/Mobile%20Uploads/20170403_182920_zpsp7yc44f8.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170403_182920_zpsp7yc44f8.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/Mobile%20Uploads/20170403_182920_zpsp7yc44f8.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170403_182920_zpsp7yc44f8.jpg.html)
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(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/Mobile%20Uploads/20170403_192838_zpsjnlicfy4.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170403_192838_zpsjnlicfy4.jpg.html)
Yeah not gonna try the salt method but I am going to pin everything
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I like to use a "scarf joint" for splicing the tapers on the KennyM design bow. The tapers have to flex/bend to conform onto the bow form. I think A straight Hill style riser could use the joint you posted since it doesn't flex during glue up. The scarf joint I try to do is between 1/2" and 3/4" inch to end of fade. I glue them just like you posted but I have been using GG super glue.
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Well this guy on you tube used this joint on a similar r/d bow and it seemed to work fine. I wasn't really confident with my ability to do the other joint without messing up. I think it will hold tho. It doesn't take alot of pressure to push any of the lams flat against my form and this epoxy is pretty good stuff.
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Ok so you were right Robert, The parallel joint held up but the taper popped apart when I tried to flex it into the form. So I trimmed it off and went with the same joint Kenny used in his build along. This time it worked good. I made sure everything was square and sanded the joints flat with a block sander after. (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/Mobile%20Uploads/20170405_175514_zpsband3kpy.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170405_175514_zpsband3kpy.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/Mobile%20Uploads/20170405_180142_zps1mcbwbxh.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170405_180142_zps1mcbwbxh.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/Mobile%20Uploads/20170405_181522_zpsihohr4gu.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170405_181522_zpsihohr4gu.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/Mobile%20Uploads/20170405_182331_zpsecska0cy.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170405_182331_zpsecska0cy.jpg.html)
Next I started working on my riser template. I screwed a piece of squared up 1/4" to the back of my form making sure everything was squared up, stacked my bottom lams on the form and traced the out line with a pencil as I pressed the lams into place. I didn't have enough hands to take pictures while I was doing this. (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/Mobile%20Uploads/20170405_185831_zpshc69zh96.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170405_185831_zpshc69zh96.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/Mobile%20Uploads/20170405_190421_zpskjsotnaa.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170405_190421_zpskjsotnaa.jpg.html)
Than I cut it out on the band saw and checked the fit. I sanded the high spots with some 80 grit sandpaper and I currently have it to the point where it fits fairly well, although it still needs a little work. Ran out of time.. (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/Mobile%20Uploads/20170405_193915_zpshys3czy5.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170405_193915_zpshys3czy5.jpg.html)
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That's a "scarf" joint, and works best when the length of the angular cut is 6x the thickness of the material being jointed
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And I thought my walnut jig was fancy!! :D
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After much sanding and shaping, I got the template to fit my form almost perfectly. I could just barely see light in a couple of spots but they were minuscule so hopefully that is good enough because no matter how much I messed with it I couldn't get it better. I played around with different handle styles for a couple days and this is what I came up with. I shoot 3 under with a 1/2" fixed crawl so I figured that moving the shelf 1 1/2" north of center wouldn't hurt me any. here is the 1/4" template. What do you guys think? (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170406_144945_zps6uqnhhgr.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170406_144945_zps6uqnhhgr.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170407_150141_zpskxouo5cs.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170407_150141_zpskxouo5cs.jpg.html)
It is 18" tip to tip and the first 3" on both sides will be the same slope
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I made my template just for shaping the back side of the riser (side against the form). Then "freehand" the radius cuts on the belly side.
There are a couple reasons. One it allows you to experiment with deifferent grips and riser shapes. But also, I'm not sure you will be able to keep the fades on the template from moving around and flexing while trying to follow them with a pattern sander.
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When doing the fades, use a good square block behind the riser fade to keep everything in line.
Assuming you will use a spindle sander or the end of a belt sander.
Getting closer! :thumbsup:
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Ok guys finally making a little progress. Yeah Bvas I shouldn't have cut out the ramps on my template, They were a bit flimsy. But I stuck them to my piece of zebra wood with carpet tape and they stuck pretty good. I used the template as a guide for the router and got it close. (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170410_191024_zpsyokeagcn.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170410_191024_zpsyokeagcn.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170410_192759_zpsmvp8du5j.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170410_192759_zpsmvp8du5j.jpg.html)
When I tried to fit it on my form there was a major air gap that I don't remember being there when fitting my template, So I spent 45 minutes marking the high points and flat filing/sanding the form to get everything to fit tight. When It finally fit in there with no light shining through, I checked my square on the form and of course it was was off from all my sanding. So I spent anothe 45 minutes getting it back to square. Now everything is square and fits tight (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170410_202642_zpsww0uhzjx.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170410_202642_zpsww0uhzjx.jpg.html)
Next I cut the ramps out on the band saw and used a spindle sander to get a knife edge on the tips. Next I have to touch up the riser ramps a little and then do a dry run with everything on the form. (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170410_220738_zps7xqxoyhd.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170410_220738_zps7xqxoyhd.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170410_220759_zpsgxjrisd0.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170410_220759_zpsgxjrisd0.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170410_220819_zpsiguyhntz.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170410_220819_zpsiguyhntz.jpg.html)
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Also I'm going to pin the riser to the form and the top lams and glass to the riser so nothing slides during glue up
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So I did a dry run and didn't like how hard it was to bend my lams into the steep ramps so I made them a little less aggressive. I also pinned my riser and laminations to the form. (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170411_204553_zpskjronidr.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170411_204553_zpskjronidr.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170411_205717_zpsuerju07q.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170411_205717_zpsuerju07q.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170412_203703_zpsqjsvngql.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170412_203703_zpsqjsvngql.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170412_203711_zpsbnqulgxu.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170412_203711_zpsbnqulgxu.jpg.html)
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I made up these pressure strips with adhesive high temp rubber to raise up the middle and aluminum strips. (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170412_211834_zpswu14czcb.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170412_211834_zpswu14czcb.jpg.html)
However I seem to get better gluing pressure without them. What do you guys think about just putting the thin rubber strip on the back of my fiberglass and going without the aluminum? It seems like it takes tons of clamping pressure just to get the aluminum to form to my ramps, whereas without them everything lays right in there without stretching the rubber bands too much.
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aluminum is very stiff and unforgiving--light galvanized sheetmetal will close up your ramps better
riser fades could be thinner--but looking good!
--one thing I found using bands was - when you are gluing up--work BOTH limbs simultaneously-it helps keep the riser from creeping
layout and planning is everything in this game--you got this!
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Don't forget to put plastic or saran wrap on top of form so you don't glue the bow to the form..I also wrap my pressure strips and air hose with plastic. The 0.5 mil thick plastic painters drop cloth works pretty good. Be careful with the pin, maybe lightly wax the hole in the form..that way you can separate the bow from the form and use the same hole again.
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Thanks guys, Yeah i'll saran wrap the form. do I have to worry about the epoxy sticking to the rubber bands?
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I wouldn't worry about epoxy and rubber bands. They get will come off pretty easy I've found.
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So I did a dry run last week and everything looked great so I was about to glue up when I dropped my riser on the work bench and took a big chip out of the corner!! :banghead: I was not pleased! (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170414_161139_zpse7lfhev6.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170414_161139_zpse7lfhev6.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170414_161145_zpsosw6pebq.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170414_161145_zpsosw6pebq.jpg.html) After talking to Kenny I decided to shorten an inch on either side, making it 16 ". I ran to work early sat morning to use the drill press and drum sander there to re sand my fades. I spent an hour re sanding them to knife edges. On the way home I was driving down my dirt road and I picked it up to admire it and (you can't make this up) I went over a pothole and bounced it off my steering wheel chipping it again! Yeah i'm that type of clutz. Fortunately the chip was minor enough that I could put it on my form and fix it with a block sander. Anyway I glued up on saturday. It was a sticky mess but a lot of fun. It happened to be a 79 degree day here so I stuck it in my truck for a hot box. I used painters plastic stretched and taped over my form. (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170415_203410_zpsyzcztmcj.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170415_203410_zpsyzcztmcj.jpg.html) I popped it off the form and here is the result! Looks great to my eye. Nice tight glue lines. Man is this glue hard! Cut myself on shards of dried smooth on more than once. (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170416_210916_zpsmafrc7oa.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170416_210916_zpsmafrc7oa.jpg.html)
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Congrats! Now the real fun begins...
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Looking good so far. :thumbsup:
Take your time cleaning it up. Power tools can make for quick cleanup, but also make for quick mistakes.
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Thanks guys! Yesterday I marked it out and cut the profile into the limbs with the band saw, staying just outside my lines. Then I sanded down to the lines with a block sander and 80 grit paper. I started tapering 12" from center on both limbs and tapered to .6" at tips for now. I'm basically copying Kenny's buildalong here! Next I marked the knocks with a 45 and filed shallow knocks with a chainsaw file. Here it is at low brace for the first time! What do you guys think? I'm waiting for tip overlays before I get full draw because I don't want round my knocks around the back before I glue on overlays. Also this string is horrible and I'm afraid it will get cut through if I draw it. I have tip overlay phenelic and a doubleloop fast flight string on the way! (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170419_195215_zpszr****db.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170419_195215_zpszr****db.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170419_195200_zpslyb9qnzw.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170419_195200_zpslyb9qnzw.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170419_200901_zpsjgcs9ei8.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170419_200901_zpsjgcs9ei8.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170419_200916_zpsdkbavn8v.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170419_200916_zpsdkbavn8v.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170419_202005_zpsu4szmet5.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170419_202005_zpsu4szmet5.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170419_202023_zpsqzgfh8kl.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170419_202023_zpsqzgfh8kl.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170420_042303_zpsossdn65l.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170420_042303_zpsossdn65l.jpg.html)
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Looks good Lee!! :thumbsup:
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Thanks Kenny! Thanks to you everything is going very smoothly! I'm so pleased with my first look at brace height
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my first look at it braced I mean
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That profile may look better than with tip wedges and power lams!!
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So I glued the handle and tip overlays on and shaped the handle with a rasp and sand paper. I started to shape the tip overlays but still have some work yo do on them yet. (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170422_144659_zpscbgxja5w.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170422_144659_zpscbgxja5w.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170422_142655_zpsoaprivum.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170422_142655_zpsoaprivum.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170422_153553_zpsyrhypjwd.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170422_153553_zpsyrhypjwd.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170422_153605_zpspt29c3nv.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170422_153605_zpspt29c3nv.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170424_204147_zps8ce6qv4s.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170424_204147_zps8ce6qv4s.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170424_213548_zpsmegcscj0.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170424_213548_zpsmegcscj0.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170424_212550_zpsr4v507oo.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170424_212550_zpsr4v507oo.jpg.html)
According to my measurements I have 1/8" positive tiller at the moment. But although I have no way of accurately measuring it at the moment, the full draw looks pretty even. Its measuring 53#@28". Shooting for 50. What do you guys think? Does the tiller need any adjustment?
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It looks really good from here!
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Thanks Kenny! Had to shoot it a couple times yesterday. Its very fast compared to any of my selfbows! How much do you guys round over the edges?
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Also what do you guys use for finish coats? I was thinking spar urethane or poly. Do you coat the glass as well? And if so do you sand the glass to give it something to stick to?
Thanks guys
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You did a fine job on that riser :shaka:
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Minwax spar urethane is good but yellows things a bit. Holds up well tho. Works on zebra.
You can round over pretty well, I wouldn't leave sharp corners, but don't get too deep either!
I sand the glass with 220 before spraying.
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Check the thread on VHT wheel finish too...
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Looking good!!!
Spar is good. Poly is a little soft for me, but is alright for filling grain. Currently I'm using poly to fill grain then finishing with the VHT. So far I'm liking it.
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Thanks guys!I will check out VHT
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All finished up! 64" ntn 53#@28" Thank you Kenny for all your help. Ill be ordering from you again soon! I am used to straight limbed self bows and wood arrows, so i was blown away at how fast and forgiving this bow is to shoot. My effective hunting range seems to have extended 10 yards! Anyway here are some pics.
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170503_203033_zpsrep0eure.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170503_203033_zpsrep0eure.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170503_203041_zpsxklyzovf.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170503_203041_zpsxklyzovf.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170503_203051_zpsjmjmtaam.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170503_203051_zpsjmjmtaam.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170503_203100_zpscf0zhbky.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170503_203100_zpscf0zhbky.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170503_203106_zpszflf2tkt.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170503_203106_zpszflf2tkt.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170503_203136_zps0zybualv.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170503_203136_zps0zybualv.jpg.html) (http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah298/llobbes1/20170503_211311_zpsuitvcqvt.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/llobbes1/media/20170503_211311_zpsuitvcqvt.jpg.html)
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How do I edit the title of my thread to say bow finished like I have seen some of you guys do?
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Looks good Lee!! :thumbsup:
If you go to your first post and click on the edit icon you can edit the title.
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That's a really nice looking bow! Good job!
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Awesome looking job on the first one! I'm sure it won't be the last! You came really close to hitting your target weight also, good for you.
So, what finish did you end up going with? Did you use the VHT?
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Thanks guys! I ended up using spar urethane because I thought a slight yellowing effect would actually look good on this combo.
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You're welcome Lee! Sweet bow, great job! :clapper:
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looks good...good job.
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Nice! What're going to build next :p
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Thanks guys! I think i'm going to build a few more bows off of this form. I'm thinking a 62" for me and a purple heart riser bow for my wife
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That looks fantastic...
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Nice looking bow - well done!
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Lee, it is a fantastic job, I'll agree with
Roy ONCE! LOL :thumbsup:
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Great job!!!
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You did a beautiful job!
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Looks really nice. Thanks for sharing your build!
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Nice job Dude
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Good job- that's a beauty.
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Thank you everybody! I have been shooting it for a few weeks now and I love it! I just placed another order to Kenny. Next on the list is a 62" off the same form. All you guys with this addiction, you gotta watch that guy! He is like a crack dealer! :biglaugh:
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Meet ya on the corner.... :goldtooth:
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Great Job!
What finish did you end up using on the bow?
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Yup ole Kenny is a cracked ole boy...
I had to be careful there...
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what exactly is a "glass" bow?
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"glass bow" usually refers to a composite bow made from thin laminations (strips) of wood between a back and belly lamination of unidirectional fiberglass (fibers run from tip to tip, only).
Lee's bow, as he describes in the preceding pages, is composed of a dark wood handle or "riser", two or more light wood laminations running from tip to tip, and black fiberglass laminations running from tip to tip on the back and belly.