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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: les corley on March 15, 2017, 04:38:00 PM
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My first post, I've been following for some time now and what a great place to learn. I'm going to start a build on a Rick Ellis striker style bow at 62 amo and hoping for 35 to 40 draw. My big question is this. What if I don't use tapers, is that going to make a huge difference? Also can I use wood parallels on the belly so I can tiller? I'm guess
ing about .315 limb thickness. Any help.
Will be appreciated. Thanks
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Assuming this is an all wood and no glass bow....
Tapers help make the limb bend where you want it to. As a rule of thumb, more taper can be used on a narrow deep limb like a Hill style because you have less width to taper on the edges. And a wider limbed bow like a recurve can use less because you have more width taper.
In my opinion, most bows work better with at least some taper lams in the limbs.
According to Roy :D , you want the thick parallel on the belly and the taper in core so you don't cut thru a glue line(assuming an all wood bow)
I'm not sure what thickness you will need but thinking more than .315, my 62" D/R needs .335" total stack for 40# with glass back and belly and an all wood bow I believe needs a bit more....
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It is going to be backed with glass. I want to use curly maple parallels but haven't decided on the core. Thanks for the reply, any suggestions will be very helpful.
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With glass back and belly, you might make weight, depending on how radical the D/R is.
I would still put some tapers in. My .02 and worth exactly that! :)
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I've decided to glass back & belly & 02 taper after your comment. Thank you for the advice.
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Be sure to let us know how it goes!!
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I plan to take pics but don't know how to post them but have enough time to learn. I got all my material ordered yesterday and looking for a delivery in about a week.