Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: kennym on March 05, 2017, 01:25:00 PM
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I'm going to try a complete buildalong here, bear with me....
First the form, I took a template from the kennym 62/64" bow and added an inch of reflex to the tip blending back in midlimb. Been thinking about this for about 5 years, should be long enuff...
(http://i.imgur.com/DteKJub.jpg)
Now bend a fairly stiff but flexible piece around it to make sure no dips or humps. They will show up in the bow if you don't get them out. I had to work on the template a bit for one flat spot. Used a long sanding block.
Easier to sand the 1/4" template than the 1.5" thick form...
(http://i.imgur.com/ceT8TcH.jpg)
Now to the table saw and rip a pc of 3/4" AB plywood into 2 pieces 11.75" wide(so I can get 4 out of sheet)...
(http://i.imgur.com/ahZtYgI.jpg)
Orientation of ply to glue up so the 2 pieces work to straighten each other...
(http://i.imgur.com/UqwaxVA.jpg)
Plywood is never as thick as they sell it to be, so we will add a pc of 1/4" in between, have a plan for being over the 1.5" , more on that when we get there......
(http://i.imgur.com/sSFfcfi.jpg)
Now I mark out outside of both pcs of outside plywood with the form profile shape so I don't get screws in the way when I saw and rout it..
I mark 1" along bottom so the form ends up with the same amount above and below cut. The center mark goes on center. The template end is an inch past center so the router doesn't dig in at end , you have a place for the guide bearing to be ....
(http://i.imgur.com/Ytwtyhk.jpg)
Flip template to other end and mark, LOOK !!! both limbs are identical!! LOL
(http://i.imgur.com/P5LtZfe.jpg)
There she is, sexy curves eh???
(http://i.imgur.com/ue37Cxr.jpg)
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Now for some glue and screws...
(http://i.imgur.com/5kpYEaL.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/OHDHiHo.jpg)
Now before the glue sets, check for straight, this one showed straight end to end, but not corner to corner, so I clamped opposite corners down to bench a bit...
(http://i.imgur.com/TfgxvaE.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/EpYp1NP.jpg)
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Waiting for glue to dry is about as exciting as watching paint dry!! :laughing:
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I'm so excited we are getting this build along. It'll be invaluable for lots of people. Words from the horses mouth right here. Bookmarked the link already!
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Interesting, very good. Is your limbshape a true circle?
Bue--.
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Looking good Kenny!!
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What's ya making, a roller coaster?
:jumper:
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Great thanks for the build a long.
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The limbshape was a true circle on the original 62/64", now the tip will gain reflex on the last 9" or so... should have measured that!!
Roy, this will be a rocket launcher not a roller coaster, wont be able to shoot wood arrows out of it, they would be charcoal when they got to target....
You will be trying to bend yer boo like this soon....
Actually, I'm trying this to see if it changes performance without losing shootability.
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First one will be brown glass and something for a riser, maybe bocote.....
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Hmmmm. Since this is a kennym design but not the original Kennym form. What shall we call it??
Kennym pro-mod :laughing:
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2017 modified class LOL
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OK here we go, sawing the form in half...
Notice I put something to hold the form up as it comes off saw, if you don't it's hard to stay on line....
(http://i.imgur.com/1DSB77j.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/mfohhja.jpg)
Now line up center and the line with the bottom of template, screw template on form, and check screws to be flush or slightly below...
(http://i.imgur.com/b5AY5xr.jpg)
Clamp the form to something solid, gotta keep it still while routing the profile on her..
(http://i.imgur.com/GuEzHv2.jpg)
Set the router depth so it cuts properly with bearing on template. If your bit won't reach clear thru, no prob, just rout once and then use freshly routed surface as template for lower portion....
(http://i.imgur.com/tuJcQ5I.jpg)
I have a curved sanding block same radius as the riser, you can also use it on the limb curves with long smooth strokes....
(http://i.imgur.com/niBpu0f.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/W4A1iAw.jpg)
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X 2 on pro-mod
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Now remember the form is too thick, I haven't done it this way before, but it's easier than running it thru the thickness sander a couple dozen times...
I just moved the template down the right amount and used a straight 1/2" cut bit to narrow the edge(s) up to 1.5" ...
(http://i.imgur.com/GE6kdqf.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/TgfIc5F.jpg)
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And I had a fellow call about putting curved radius in risers, so I set my el cheapo swing jig on my bandsaw and figured while I was taking pics for him, I'd just cut the back and accent cut for the riser. Found a chunk of bocote with some sapwood on a corner, which would cut off...
(http://i.imgur.com/g3D7dn6.jpg)
It's set on 26" which I figured out before I cut it, it needs 27" radius for the 62/64" bow...
(http://i.imgur.com/xMVewgV.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/12mN9Y9.jpg)
Set the block out far enough to hit the line you want, cut the back profile first, then the accent cut...
(http://i.imgur.com/rKHosmK.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/CKIR84N.jpg)
Here she is all cut out, back profile, accent cut(simple curved accent, probably put a pc of curly something with maybe something black in there...
(http://i.imgur.com/8qOVkWP.jpg)
That's all folks til next weekend most likely.....
:archer2:
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Excellent :thumbsup:
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Keep it up Kenny - this is going to be good.
Thanks for taking the time to post this.
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Awesome! I ordered your plans several years ago, got the form built and just never got around to ordering supplies to get started. Looking forward to this build a long.
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Kenny- Do you pattern sand them, or just the saw cut?
I will be watching
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I take the outside of curve to disc sander and just lightly clean up any zigs or zags , then spindle sander to inside curve and do the same, then clamp together and check the glue line, just like a dry run on a bow. Then adjust the inside curve because the disc sander on the outside curve is rarely out of line. Rarely have to do much more than that.
Will not sand the back profile til I'm ready to finish the riser up for bow glueup.
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You da man
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good stuff... thanks.
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Not too shabby ole boy.. ^5
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I gotta get a pc of metal strap to make the straps to bolt it together with the bow and air hose in between.
I could rob em off another form, but don't want to....
I like the air system because the entire bow has the exact same pressure as it cures.
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Lookin sweet :thumbsup:
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Gonna be nice!
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Thanks guys!!
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You make it look so easy Kenny! You should be a teacher. ;)
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Looking good Kenny!
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I like the title Kenny. I thought for a minute ole 4est was up posting again though.
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i keep my eyes on this... keep coming mate...
best.
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Weekend is coming, be back at it then!
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Got some orders to fill, then back at it tomorrow.
Sposed to snow a couple inches in morning so good day to be in shop.
Got the metal strap for the hold down straps. Have to cut and drill them, space the form and adjust width of space between top and bottom.
Then wax on it and start figuring bow lam thickness out....
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Well, what's the hold up ole timer?
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That 4 letter word, WORK . I coulda had this bow done if it weren't for it. But I like to eat and have a warm spot to sleep.... :D
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This is awesome Kenny! So are you taking material orders now??
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Yes sir, Steve!
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Been over 4 hours now....
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Originally posted by Roy from Pa:
Been over 4 hours now....
I thought people got more patience as they got OLDer :p
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He did say he likes to eat and sleep.......
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I'm with Roy
Get you b_tt out of bed Kenny and make us a bow.
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Jeez! I been building a shiping/receiveing box to put outside to keep stuff dry!
Got it painted JD Green and drying now.
I may just rob some hardware off another form I may not use again instead of making it to keep ya happy tho.... :biglaugh:
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You Da Man
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Originally posted by kennym:
Jeez! I been building a shiping/receiveing box to put outside to keep stuff dry!
I think you have priorities in line ;)
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OK, we are ready to space the form and put some hardware on it...
Special spacing tool...
(http://i.imgur.com/za463ck.jpg)
And in action, usually the form will space evenly except on limb ends so I check all the center and get spacing right...
(http://i.imgur.com/pAFMxn5.jpg)
Then when it starts getting a smaller gap at ends, I mark with the special tool and will cut with bandsaw...
(http://i.imgur.com/Akywc2R.jpg)
Then lay the riser pattern on and use spacer tool to mark out around it, if you put something right thickness in between form halves to hold the riser pattern up, it really helps......
(http://i.imgur.com/FaHAyXl.jpg)
Now to really mess me up, I'm thinking about running the belly glass right thru and just adding overlays on belly to make the grip up as well as overlays on back....
(http://i.imgur.com/MtFld56.jpg)
What you all think about that idea??
I robbed the other form, have hated every bow off it so far anyway...
(http://i.imgur.com/qdfL9Gk.jpg)
That was it for today, ran out of time... :p
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Very similar to what I intend to try on my next build for the boy. Except I'm not gonna go straight thru with the belly lams. I'm gonna try and radius them slightly towards the back of the bow.
I just can't decide whether to do it as a one or two step glue up.
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don't forget to take that screw out before you band saw it.
:p
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Love this thread. I use 3/4 -1/2 and 3/8s plywood to get really close to 1.5. Cant find the 3/8s everywhere but we have a store here that still carries it.
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That would work too Brad, I'll look at that option, it may mess with my curved accent. That is how it is on the form I robbed hardware off of.
I'll have to check on 3/8" Mike, one less step. Not that I'm lazy............. :D
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I think running glass straight thru would look fine. I split the riser in half on a couple and it looked okay but not doing that again. Have pics if ya like
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OK, here we go, settled on how much riser to put in , hope it works!! Kind of averaged between straight and the accent curve.....
(http://i.imgur.com/VArEUve.jpg)
Figured I better make a template for this style, forgot to take pics after finished, sorry.....
(http://i.imgur.com/72XT5OQ.jpg)
Now I've sawed the space for riser and hose (and bow) and sawed the ends where they were too tight.
Line up center and check spacing...
(http://i.imgur.com/l3Nu6JF.jpg)
When spacing is correct all the way thru, I put some temporary chunks of plywood on both ends to keep spacing, they come off after drilling and installing hardware....
(http://i.imgur.com/IHtrFLZ.jpg)
Now I figured out equal spacing on hardware, making sure I can see ends of riser at bow glue up. I want my hardware square with the portion of limb it is on, so it pulls straight and not pulling top form endwise....
(http://i.imgur.com/xMeImgk.jpg)
Now lay your hardware where you want it, I made the 1/2" hole 2.5" from face of form. Then I drilled a shallow 1/2" hole .....
(http://i.imgur.com/vaJqLq5.jpg)
Now put the 1/2" bolt in the shallow hole thru the bracket...
(http://i.imgur.com/gIpaH7k.jpg)
Now drill the 3/8" holes shallow,just enough to start the bolt in. Put the first 3/8" bolt in before drilling the second, now all holes line up...
(http://i.imgur.com/J1cmNXW.jpg)
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Now to get the holes straight thru without lugging the form to the drill press, been there done that!
This is a block I had made for TDs, I just drill the hole with the 1/4" bit, then run the right size thru after drilling the pilot hole straight thru. ..
(http://i.imgur.com/pz7etbs.jpg)
Holes all drilled to size and ready to put hardware on. NOTE , if your hardware isn't factory like mine isn't, drill thru each individual pair to start and keep them where they go!!
(http://i.imgur.com/uM1ojBt.jpg)
And..... there she is in her raw beauty!! You can take the temporary plywood pieces off the ends now!
(http://i.imgur.com/BQV1oEQ.jpg)
I may or may not put a piece of glass on her face, last form it was a waste of time, hated the bows off it. So may build one or two to see if it's worth putting on....
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Now to glue up the riser, you don't have to glue a riser, with a strong wood you can just go with it solid wood. I like the fact that it takes some riser flex out, which improves performance a tad.....
Glue lines look good! NOTE, if one piece is a bit flexible and your glue surfaces feel smooth, its hard to go wrong here... LOL
(There is that pesky riser template!!)
(http://i.imgur.com/mnv1FUv.jpg)
Ready to put some EA-40 to it. Lay a sheet of plastic wrap on bench and wrap the riser after applying glue. Careful not to pinch it in between the wood surfaces.The bottom 2 pcs don't glue on, just helps to clamp it together , keep these outside the plastic wrap. Note the little plywood pieces at top. These go on the sides after you get the plastic wrap around it to clamp side to side to prevent slippage.
(http://i.imgur.com/FmImq4k.jpg)
This one is easy to explain! Note the X on the riser, I put that on when I cut it to keep grain lined up, centerline looks fairly good, I tighten clamps slowly and not super tight, don't wanna starve the glue joint. Coat each glue face that glues to another...
(http://i.imgur.com/w6epZMS.jpg)
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nice
:coffee:
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Looking good!!
I'm glad to see this build before I get started on my next.
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My lord you make all this look so easy!!! I STRUGGLE building a form keeping everything square and what not.
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He da man
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LOL , I've made a lot of em. Some only get a bow or two off em if I don't like the results. Will glue the bow up next weekend if I have time. Lams are ready and waiting. Amber aboo and brown glass.
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Loaded with good ideas :thumbsup:
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It's ok I guess... :)
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Looks good ol man!
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Thanks rev!! :D
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And Justin!
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Keep it coming, good work so far
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Ok Kenny, I want to see how much (or little) glue you use on glue up of that screamer. I need the help. I can't glue one up with out getting glue everywhere. On me, the hose, the form, the floor, everywhere. :help:
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Thanks Ben , David I'll try to get a good measurement on the glue!! LOL
I got to the shop long enough to put some stuff away and slick the riser up a bit to check glue lies....
(http://i.imgur.com/zLT2yrJ.jpg)
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David , I hear ya! It will be interesting to see what the wise one does.... ;) . Thanks for this build along Kenny!
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""It will be interesting to see what the wise one does....""
Leave Roy outta this!! :laughing:
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LOL
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OK, a little tonite after some serious lam work...
First, making the lams, the taper sled for bandsaw and the preacher stick(it don't lie)for setting rough lam thickness
(http://i.imgur.com/Jy7Kuh9.jpg)
Here's how I use it to set rough lam thickness, sled is kicked up on leading edge so you can see it. Looking for .115 butt on the .002 taper, so I add .035 for sanding.,...
(http://i.imgur.com/DtQhAdg.jpg)
Sled against fence, lam blank against sled. Cut tapers instead of sanding parallels to tapers...
(http://i.imgur.com/1Rc1swS.jpg)
Then off to the beast to grind to proper thickness. .002,.001 tapers, and 2 pair parallels...
(http://i.imgur.com/sjxwz80.jpg)
Here is the glass I'm gonna use, what you think, will it look ok?
(http://i.imgur.com/kW8ABPW.jpg)
All I had was 1" tape so put 2 pieces on and trimmed, if you keep the glue sorta under control, no prob!!....
(http://i.imgur.com/rqjJbio.jpg)
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The bocote and brown glass look sharp together :saywhat:
What are the accent stripes??
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I have to work on my lam cutting
I like the brown glass
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Maple and Bocote accents. Plain Jane ...
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Although im not the biggest fan of the brown glass, im sure its going to look awesome. Loving this thread....
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It's going to look great.
Kenny, that Preacher Stick is great. I use the one you made all the time. I always forget to use the sled when I resaw :knothead: Thanks for the reminder!
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Lookin great so far :thumbsup:
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Most of Kenny's glass is brown. I kinda gotta an idea why too... :laughing:
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can't wait for Saturday
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Looking my riser plan over this evening, marked it out on the riser and don't like it. Geometry with the accent is not good.
Think I'm going back to original. have to saw a bit on form but think I can do it with hardware on it.
Have to get some pcs as thick as the bolts are sticking out and screw to the form to slide on bandsaw table......
Should be able to glue up tomorrow anyway.... :)
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Here's what I got into on the riser plan....
(http://i.imgur.com/VJqDNzc.jpg)
The templates, one with curved top is what I'm going with, same 27" radius as the back of riser...
(http://i.imgur.com/sflanmD.jpg)
And what I did to leave hardware on the form and bandsaw it to new shape. Created other probs we will cover in a bit tho...
(http://i.imgur.com/p3lLNSW.jpg)
Now I'm going to skive the lams to make full length ones by gluing 2 in center. The simple skive jig for the ol disc sander. I'm gonna cry when this 25 year old veteran bow machine dies...
Just a block squared up and screwed to a base with room for the lams to sit on edge of base to keep all squared up. Make sure you get the lams where the sander disc doesn't grab and pull em on thru. Mine turns that direction, but they are far enuff so that the disc is pulling somewhat downward...
(http://i.imgur.com/bB6YHlE.jpg)
These are the .002 taper, but it works same for all of em, just slooowly slide em in together and grind one , then shuffle em keeping face same way and grind the 2nd one...
(http://i.imgur.com/C24OUwu.jpg)
Heres what I had when first one was done and lams swapped places...
(http://i.imgur.com/oDFcwSQ.jpg)
Ready to glue into full length..
(http://i.imgur.com/OjT9Mey.jpg)
I have an aluminum 1/4" x 1.5" straightedge I glue on to keep good and straight. A pc of wrap to lay em on and clamp the first one down so you only have to mess with one to keep straight...
(http://i.imgur.com/qRybniH.jpg)
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Now apply CA to one lam in a thick coat, then position other on top, flip plastic over, put a little block on top of plastic and clamp, I clamp to bench because its easy... :D
(http://i.imgur.com/SkZc2F8.jpg)
I glued both surfaces on this set, too much squeezed out, so I cut back to gluing one surface on the next sets...
(http://i.imgur.com/Nrxzz4z.jpg)
A little work with the sanding block and ready to go...
(http://i.imgur.com/cdvWJTc.jpg)
Now to prep the riser by grinding to proper fade profile, I do .065 at one inch and .140 or so at 2" with a nice sweeping curve....
(http://i.imgur.com/K5rhYZK.jpg)
Hard to get a pic lefthanded, and check both sides of riser in case your sander isn't perfectly square with sander table ..
(http://i.imgur.com/erOiTtW.jpg)
Riser fade feathered end...
(http://i.imgur.com/KFYlhg2.jpg)
Here's the problem with top form mentioned earlier found during the dry run. ALWAYS do a dry run before glueup. I could have wedged during glueup but it is hard to see glue lines when they are full of glue!!
(http://i.imgur.com/zTj1wZ9.jpg)
And the fix, wedges from some TD wedge making glued onto top form, will do another dry run when dry...
(http://i.imgur.com/V1zj8cL.jpg)
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I probably didn't need the left wedge, may have to knock it off....
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Got glue lines fixed, having probs not going to clear glass and some cool veneers! LOL
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How thick are those lams?
first one off the new form.
Glue it up with that Brown glass.
Maybe some camo later.
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I went with the stack for 45 lb on the original, thinking it might be around 50 with more deflex. Stack as follows:
2 - .040 glass
2 -.050 parallels
1 - .060 x .001 superlam with built in wedges both ends
1 - .115 taper @ .002
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Cut the glass to length and marked center on edge and tape....
(http://i.imgur.com/dUm1adw.jpg)
Parts all laid out....
(http://i.imgur.com/g4ofwZa.jpg)
Here ya go David and Barry, and this was a bit too much for a 4 lam and 2 glass bow , just barely...
(http://i.imgur.com/AnBSgc7.jpg)
Ready to glue up, and Roy, the Dr. is in....
(http://i.imgur.com/pALKeFX.jpg)
Glue on all surfaces that needed it and taped down somewhat on form. See my little block that helps set it in vise? LOL
(http://i.imgur.com/FPP5fMy.jpg)
Here is what was left in glue container...
(http://i.imgur.com/4Hge1xQ.jpg)
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I just use plywood rectangles for side blocks anymore, you might want something better if you build several bows off a form. LOL
Notice when I aired up, the corners dig into hose, this is a no-no. The glass won't lay down and you will get a thick spot on the limb. don't even ask how I know!!
Go back and loosen, move to fit (after air up) and tighten by hand.
(http://i.imgur.com/ryAp4A3.jpg)
Now go thru and wipe the glue down off limb edges where you can, you will thank me later for that! You can pretty much tear plastic and extra glue off and grind where the hardware is. ..
(http://i.imgur.com/YTAv6aI.jpg)
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Nice
Cant wait
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Hmmmm. Looking good. But very curious how your gonna finish the riser out.
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Me too Brad!! LOL
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keep it simple
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New form I'm wingin it! LOL
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Originally posted by Mad Max:
keep it simple
Too late for that. Lol
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Looking good!! I'm really curious to see how the new profile performs compared to the original one!!!
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Looking good Kenny.
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Looking very good. You make ot look so easy Kenny
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This build along is awesome. Makes we wanna build one
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Thank you guys!!
It must be easy or I couldn't pull it off! :D
Trying lots of new stuff this time, going with the 24 hour no heat set on the EA-40, I've got a reputable bowyer says it works fine. I absolutely hate leaving my heat box on when I'm not there....
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Looks great Kenny... I def like the modification you made to the riser. Looks more appealing then the flat on the belly side! looking forward to seeing the rest come together!
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OK, took her out of form today after 24 hours of 70* temp.
Good glue lines, and think I can use the riser cutout for grip one way or another...
(http://i.imgur.com/pz4IaZ1.jpg)
Took tape off and put new tape on for limb marking.
(http://i.imgur.com/DZaF2Cn.jpg)
Gotta keep your centerline thru all the cleanup of limbs!!
(http://i.imgur.com/34sx3Xj.jpg)
Since this is gonna be a 64" ntn bow, I mark from center both limbs 32" along bow back...
(http://i.imgur.com/kqgAINk.jpg)
Clamp yardstick to limb to hold thru curves and mark 32" from center both ways
(http://i.imgur.com/75lxemR.jpg)
Now mark center at nock marks and centerline of bow, stretch a string end to end and make sure it goes across center. If not move both marks at nocks the same direction to bring across center mark.
(http://i.imgur.com/uVnygst.jpg)
Here is how I check at center when the reflex is enough you can't get string close to mark, ....
(http://i.imgur.com/kDi4yEw.jpg)
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Now I mark 12" from center , this is where the limb side taper starts...
(http://i.imgur.com/Q5ZUhgJ.jpg)
OK I missed a detail, you need to mark 5/16" each way from centerline at nocks, this will give you a 5/8" starting width, I usually end up around a half inch wide at nocks...
Now from that mark, straight line to edge of limb at 12" from center...
(http://i.imgur.com/S6hulS0.jpg)
And now the limbs are marked out....
(http://i.imgur.com/daUW1FL.jpg)
More next weekend, should be shooting it then...
Hope everyone is enjoying seeing how I throw one together! :D
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Great build, Kenny! Can't wait to see the finished product.
Question - Do you have a clone of yourself working the shop with you? How else could you have found the time to work on this bow and grind my laminations at the same time?
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5 more min. you could have it tillered
:scared:
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Alright, I gotta ask. How do you cut your hand while laying out limb profile???
I understand that it is almost somewhat of a requirement to bleed on each and every project. But while laying out limbs :dunno:
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Sweet ole boy...
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John, I needed somewhere to be, Renee had a ladies gathering and I wanted to stay out of house.
It may take longer than that Mark!!
Brad, that goes back to the gathering in house, I had the bow form in the vise and one of those nifty stem caps with the end you can take valve cores out with. Went by and raked it across back of hand. Didn't want to bother ladies, so a folded up paper towel and some masking tape til it quit leaking. Had just taken the homemade bandaid off and no cleanup yet! LOL
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Thanks Roy!
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so a folded up paper towel and some masking tape til it quit leaking.
LOL, that's what I use too....
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LOL
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Looking good Kenny! I am going to cut back on my glue next time. You mix up way less than I do. I sure like the shape of that bow.
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Originally posted by David Flanrey:
Looking good Kenny! I am going to cut back on my glue next time. You mix up way less than I do. I sure like the shape of that bow.
Wow,me too.If those are 5oz cups .I have been mixing 1 3/4 of each part for your 62/64 and 58/60 in bows. :knothead:
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This is the longest glass bow thread I've ever seen. Heck glass bows are like cookie cutters, so I've heard..
:laughing:
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Heck, I heard glass bows are the longest lasting anyway.... :laughing:
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Heck, I heard glass bows are the longest lasting anyway.... :laughing:
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Originally posted by kennym:
Heck, I heard glass bows are the longest lasting anyway.... :laughing:
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Originally posted by kennym:
Heck, I heard glass bows are the longest lasting anyway.... :laughing:
:p
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Originally posted by kennym:
Heck, I heard glass bows are the longest lasting anyway.... :laughing:
:p
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quote:
Originally posted by kennym:
Heck, I heard glass bows are the longest lasting anyway.... :wavey:
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quote:
Originally posted by kennym:
Heck, I heard glass bows are the longest lasting anyway.... :bigsmyl: :archer:
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(http://i.imgur.com/bbGf1OL.png)
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Roy, you are wanting to make one aren't ya, that's why you keep checking the build.... :biglaugh:
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Roy, you are wanting to make one aren't ya, that's why you keep checking the build.... :biglaugh:
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I guess so....
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Well, got home and couldn't take it, ground the limbs to profile, note the dust collection. USE SOME!! Go slow , don't get the limbs hot...
(http://i.imgur.com/bZC14B3.jpg)
Then to the big sander to get a perfectly straight edge on the limbs, also with dust collection, glass dust is bad for you. This sander will get the limb hot quick, so I go slower than with the disc sander...
(http://i.imgur.com/48iSjQl.jpg)
Remember the mark you squared across limb at nock? I put a little mark on the edge so I can see it easy....
(http://i.imgur.com/msIDF1I.jpg)
Then at 45* off back of bow I mark across limb(go the right way) on all 4 spots...
(http://i.imgur.com/MnNkeo4.jpg)
I file about 1/8" deep across limb leaving the line(this makes my string come out 3" shorter than bow length) on all spots...
(http://i.imgur.com/cNKm95T.jpg)
Round the limbs over on all edges, never had a sliver lift and don't wanna...
(http://i.imgur.com/0CmOc4R.jpg)
Now string her up, my string is a bit short, so brace is a little high....
(http://i.imgur.com/tbCkCaO.jpg)
She is a bit heavy but still need to narrow and can trap if needed, will come out about 50#@ 28" I think.
(http://i.imgur.com/DQe8S75.jpg)
So far I'm liking, the 60# with a 45# stack promises performance, the extra preload should keep her quiet, wish I'd done some fancy veneers!!
:biglaugh:
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And it looks like the extra reflex helped the tips hold a little more hook to them too!!! Exciting stuff!!!
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Originally posted by Roy from Pa:
(http://i.imgur.com/bbGf1OL.png)
Thanks Roy
I needed some Fancy shootin duds.
I can hear better too.
Looking good Kenny
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Very nice!!!!
Really like how it looks braced.
I'd say you've earned a PBR break :thumbsup:
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Thanks guys, the riser is 2" deep right now, won't take much overlays at all. The string isn't gonna lay on the limbs either, which I was wanting to avoid.
I like the look at brace too, when I narrow the tips, it may change but not much cause I'm gonna have to narrow the limbs a bit too to lose some weight...
Forgot to check tiller but I bet its close to even from the pic.
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Nice ole boy..
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Looks great. Can you show us the difference in profile strung and unstrung next to the standard KennyM longbow?
Thank you for such a thorough build along .... it's helped me realize I really need an edge sander ... and a drum sander lol.
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X2
Way to go Kenny
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where'd ya git the big sander ? sure makes gettin limbs straight.
great build - Thanks :campfire:
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Sure looks good that braced profile. If I am not wrong you used an .003" taper with a reverse taper at the ends on the old design. Have you used something similar on this one?
I don't mean to hijack your thread, but I just made a taper sled where the first 34" have an .002" forward taper and the next 15" have a .004" reverse taper so the tip wedge section can be shifted around. Tried it yesterday and an aboo lam came out dead right. Now I have to glue up something to try it out.
Thanks for a very interesting build along.
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I love the profile kenny
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Ben I will get some comparison pics, I happen to have a 64" original ... :D
I bought the sander at grizzly in Springfield mo,
I was happy as heck with the strung profile. Was hoping the string wouldn't lay on the limbs, don't like that!!
Thank you guys, hope to have this done up soon!!
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You know I'll be wanting to shoot it this December!! :bigsmyl:
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Here are the comparison pics with original, hope I covered it well nuff. :D
I didn't think it needed any more deflex so only added an inch more reflex, think it may work out well...
(http://i.imgur.com/Lh6phKQ.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Q1tyvWX.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/wpNdSxj.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/vaDXoxr.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/bHpf2x5.jpg)
:)
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Bue, good idea making a longer lam so you can shift the tip wedge around. My wedge is about .011 p I , I think, would have to check it.
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Oh, my tiller was 1/16" different on one end. !@#$%^&*
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I really like the look of this new profile. Small change but gives it a very modern RD look. Nice work.
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How far ahead of the back are the nocks on both designs?
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when can I get a Template
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Thanks a lot Kenny. Now I REALLY want to build a new bow before we come see you. You make it look soo easy... Awesome build a long!!
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Not too shabby ole boy..
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Put me on the list for a template as well.man that is sexy !
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You did good Kenny, fine photography work also!
Oh; I liked Roy's artwork also.
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I think the original bow was about a half inch ahead of back and the mod is another inch.
Let me shoot it a bit before I put out templates. Save you building a form of it doesn't work right.
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At 60# ya better have Renee shoot it...
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Good luck kenny
It's awesome so far
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Roy, I wuz gonna send it to you to test, but after that, I'm not gonna! Besides you don't like glass bows anyways.....
Should have it shootin this weekend Mark. Will give a speed report, I hope.
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Roy dont need no stinkin glass bow.Cause he would get converted. :D
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He shoot a Bear TD sometimes I hear... :saywhat:
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Couldn't take it, went out and glued the overlays on.
Remember the line we squared across limb, I have a combo square that is about 7/8" across blade. I put it on line and cut other side of square lightly and peel tape. If you are uncomfortable with that, take the tape off farther back(always peel any tape off from riser to tip to keep splinters away) and put a pc across the other way, I put one on like that anyway, 2 pcs make it easier to rough up without tearing the tape...
(http://i.imgur.com/hQf4hcz.jpg)
Here we have it double taped and sanded to get good glue adhesion. Note the narrow pc of presanded phenolic on bench, gotta use up the scraps somewhere!!
(http://i.imgur.com/xylahsW.jpg)
The center of bow, same deal for overlays...
(http://i.imgur.com/xrga6un.jpg)
I use the sanding block on the big spots, hand sand next to tape. The block flattens any imperfections on the glass so the overlay can lay down nice...
Note the spot that didn't sand, this is no good. keep sanding! (I left that for the pics.)
Blow all surfaces free of dust before gluing...
(http://i.imgur.com/rUk69pz.jpg)
Gluing on the riser back overlay, the riser cutouts work really well for holding the ends down. I use plastic sometimes wrapped around them so they don't glue to riser.
The brown phenolic is a pressure strip to spread the clamp pressure out somewhat.
I'm using Loctite CA from Wally W today, EA-40 sands and blends into limb glass a bit easier. ..
(http://i.imgur.com/rYL3ZLd.jpg)
Now for a tip, bevel the 1st pc as it makes it easier to blend to limb. The 2nd I never get lined up that well if I bevel it, so I don't anymore...
I use 2 pcs of 1/16" phenolic, almost always black....
(http://i.imgur.com/Lm4HCBK.jpg)
I used 1 black glass at .040" and one bocote to match riser also at .040"
Sometimes I put more on but this riser is going to be plenty deep back to belly anyway...
(http://i.imgur.com/OM4x6j9.jpg)
Maybe do belly riser overlays tomorrow eve, then I will be done with overlays and the shaping of riser and weight reduction begins.... :bigsmyl:
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Those tip overlays too keep it from exploding? :laughing:
Ya otta see that 1971 C riser bear takedown. John at the bow hospital just refinished it for me. Fantastic job.
(http://i.imgur.com/MtY7Ed0.jpg)
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That's purty Roy, but I hear sirens. The trad popo are coming for that wrist sling .... lol
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Now I am getting worried, looks like somebody joined the dark side. ;)
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I thought it was a hair band. ;)
Dave.
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Dark side? Bueboy, I bought that bow new in 1971.
McKenzie still had yellow crap in his diapers back then. Heck he prolly still does. LOL
And ya see them screws? It came predrilled for a sight. OMG... Darn Fred Bear anyway.. LOL
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Don't be so sensitive Roy!
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Originally posted by Roy from Pa:
Bueboy, I bought that bow new in 1971.
:eek: Daaaaang.............You are old!! :biglaugh:
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Originally posted by Bvas:
Originally posted by Roy from Pa:
Bueboy, I bought that bow new in 1971.
:eek: Daaaaang.............You are old!! :biglaugh: [/b]
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Originally posted by Mad Max:
Originally posted by Bvas:
Originally posted by Roy from Pa:
Bueboy, I bought that bow new in 1971.
:eek: Daaaaang.............You are old!! :biglaugh: [/b]
[/b]
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Originally posted by Bvas:
Originally posted by Roy from Pa:
Bueboy, I bought that bow new in 1971.
:eek: Daaaaang.............You are old!! :biglaugh: [/b]
:deadhorse:
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Originally posted by Mad Max:
Originally posted by Bvas:
Originally posted by Roy from Pa:
Bueboy, I bought that bow new in 1971.
:eek: Daaaaang.............You are old!! :biglaugh: [/b]
:deadhorse: [/b]
:deadhorse:
:deadhorse:
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:)
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Your a good man
I don't care what Kenny said.
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I glued on the belly overlays tonite. Changed up and used 6 pcs (I think), no pics cause I ended up putting bocote and maple lams on because it had an S curve in it. Not sure how it will look yet....
Probably like me , better with no pics... :D
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Booooooo!!!!
Even crappy pics are better than no pics :D
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I'll get ya some when I get home, hadda go to doc this morning for checkup.
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Here is gluing the black glass to belly, you can kind of see the S curve in the overlay.
(http://i.imgur.com/cTAWHOr.jpg)
I was having probs getting solid blocks to fit right, so went with bocote and maple lams , I think it may look OK when handle is shaped . That black mark is 1.75" from the back of bow, that is grip depth, and will be 1" wide side to side...
(http://i.imgur.com/76XabH3.jpg)
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Also narrowed the limbs to .460 at fades and a fuzz over 1/2" at nocks. Can go a little more as I check tiller....
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1.460
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Yep LOL, miss one once in awhile! :laughing:
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Here we go on shaping, marked out the grip and shelf...
(http://i.imgur.com/NhBzCFC.jpg)
I reckon you can guess what's coming now....
(http://i.imgur.com/pg0oG2u.jpg)
Another view of marking it out...
(http://i.imgur.com/coBCrB3.jpg)
Here she is off the table saw, found a dry glue joint with a little crack, overfilled it with CA. .. :cool:
(http://i.imgur.com/AcgjTWM.jpg)
Off to the big sander for a few, still got a ways to go...
(http://i.imgur.com/WLv4ox7.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/BEoudnl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/2N9MUBw.jpg)
Down to this, still gotta round it over on limbs, I can get it to 50 easy...
(http://i.imgur.com/1Bl2ot5.jpg)
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And the one everybody wants to see...
(http://i.imgur.com/SenS8Xr.jpg)
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I think the one everybody wants to see is the chrono reading when that arrow is turned loose. :biglaugh:
That riser turned out completely different than what I had pictured.
Really liking those bends. Looking I'm guessing it has about 8" tip wedges???
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Well, I shot it thru the chrono, but it didn't mean much with an untuned arrow and half a beaver on the string....
Showed 184 fps at 28" with 9gpp arrow. Figured it should be better than that...
Had a 58" doing 190 a couple weeks back.
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Looking good
You Da Man
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Kenny what is the limb width at the fades and tips? I've found narrow limbs like 1 to 1 1/16" wide at the fades and 7/16" or less at the tips seems to bring the speed up. Also did you add any tip wedges. It has a nice full draw profile but could use a bit more residual reflex
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Galen, it is 1.460(thanks Mark) at fades and 1/2" at tips, I may narrow it a bit more . I agree narrow and deep is quicker....
Yep, it has the superlam in it which includes a tip wedge and a power lam, both 11" from either end at .009 per inch taper but paralleled for a few inches to keep thickness down a bit. You can actually kind of see the end of the tip wedge end.....
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Originally posted by kennym:
and half a beaver on the string
Lol. That's like the big hair from the seventies. (Or so I've been told).
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I figured Roy would chime in on that, bet he had big hair in the 70s
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Get with it benbow, you have been over at that other place with your little dogie.
:biglaugh:
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Roy don't have to worry none about big hair any more ;)
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That speed will work fine in my book.
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I think she will do a bit better when finished Mike. If she is quiet and shoots nice and easy, good nuff!!
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Half a beaver is better than nuffin.. :)
Scrubby told me last month I needed a hair cut..
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She did much better with the beaver stripped off. And the masking tape, and unnecessary unfinished tips adding weight
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Originally posted by kennym:
She did much better with the beaver stripped off.
I can't even go there!!! :nono:
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She did much better with the beaver stripped off.
OMG, so now your beaver is bald? Just asken...
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Bald beavers, far out I like it.
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Originally posted by Buemaker:
Bald beavers, far out I like it.
:laughing: :laughing:
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Figured I'd get a rise out of you guys. :laughing:
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Originally posted by kennym:
She did much better with the beaver stripped off. And the masking tape, and unnecessary unfinished tips adding weight
I am not the visual type. I visualize alot different than most. I am a numbers type. "Much better" is best described by numbers. So the magic fps number is? Or is this statement based on just the shooting experience?
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smokin
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She averaged 191 at 28" with a 9 gpp arrow. May be better with an actual tuned arrow instead of just the right weight....
Will check it again when I get one tuned to it.
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Now those are numbers a man can drool over....
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That was on machine, fingers will be a few slower...
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Good job bud!!!
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191 is purty quik ole boy.
Good job.
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Smokin allright. :)
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How loud at 191?
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Its looking good Kenny and I like the drawn profile for sure. Do you happen to know the total thickness of the tips at the string grooves minus the overlays?
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Thank you guys, I'm fairly happy with this one(except no clear glass) LOL
I just shot it in the shop again(raining), it seems as quiet as any, but they always seem louder outside to me, I will give a full report when I'm all done and have a finish and rest on it.
To get the 9gpp I was shooting an old carbon express 45/60 with 175 up front. Not sure what I'll end up with for it.(EDIT, that arrow was for the 30" test)
The arrow for the 28" test was a cx heritage 150 with 115 up front.
Shane, if you deduct the tip wedge part of the superlam and do a bunch of figuring I came up with .265 at nock by actual measure and a bunch of math.
Then I did it the easy way and took .003 per inch for 32" for limb length off the butt stack of .355"and got .259 so in that area....
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Oh, also checked at 30" draw with 9 gpp, it shot 201 fps there, so you longarmed guys have a big advantage on us others...
It gained 5.5# in the 2" from 28 to 30 so that works too. From 52.72# to 58.22 #
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How's this ole boy? :)
(http://i.imgur.com/mszM2WR.jpg)
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Thanks kenny so with the tip wedge in somewhere around .300- 315. the reason I asked was I am doing some comparisons with tip thickness and stiffness to help dial in this 56". You are right in line where I am with most of my tip thickness so I am going to go a little less and see if its still as stiff as I want it.
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Go for it Roy!! LOL
Shane, I checked it and with wedge was .320
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Yes spot on to what I have on the 56". Thank you Kenny
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OK, the bow is done but I'll catch up on some more details...
Here I'm going to radius the corner from shelf to side plate, same file I use on nocks...
(http://i.imgur.com/BEwmCVh.jpg)
You can see where I cut a radius in the corner, then you remove material from side plate and shelf to leave a nice radius corner. I know some guys have power tools to do this, and if I built a lot of bows I would too.It takes a bit of time...
(http://i.imgur.com/LxUZtcE.jpg)
Easier to work on if you can hold it still, here I have cleaned up the radius, shelf, and side plate area...
(http://i.imgur.com/Sx2PBCr.jpg)
Now the test....
Cranking the shop built hooter shooter back,, measuring the draw length,, and shooting thru the chrono.......
(http://i.imgur.com/MNIRptk.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/41jexMg.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/C3xKKmD.jpg)
Results, the boat winch on the shooter came up a fuzz short of 28" on this shot and about the same long on next which read 192 so I'm calling it 191 fps with a 9 gpp arrow at 28" draw length...
(http://i.imgur.com/jYC0SU8.jpg)
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Nice
Roy are you going to make a Take Down wood tri-lam or Glass?
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Dang it, now I'm gonna have to make me one of those shooters! Lol
Good numbers Kenny!!!
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Slounds like ya got yourself a shooter!!
Nicely done.
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Very nice, that's a shooter for sure.
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Thanks guys, I will re test when I get some arrows tuned to it.
Sprayed it with the Duplicolor matte wheel finish I had on hand, looks real good but didn't get any pics before dark...
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And for the record, I discovered a limb wasn't tracking to suit me, so worked on it a bit and lost another lb or so. Then sanded good , so I expect it to be around 50#
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:thumbsup:
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Nice bud..
Not telling ya maxi boy.. :)
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I'm sure you may have covered this already but I'm wondering please this design faster smoother then the previous 62 to 64
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A bit faster but haven't shot it enough to tell much on shootability
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Thanks Kenny what a sweet looking bow with great stats too .Joe
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Thanks Joe , shoots good in shop but has been raining so haven't had her outdoors yet...
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Thanks Joe , shoots good in shop but has been raining so haven't had her outdoors yet...
What?
Ya skeered the glue is gonna melt? Rub some beaver fat all over it... that'll slick her up...
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Hmm a little beaver slicky can do wonders. :bigsmyl:
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Originally posted by Crooked Stic:
Hmm a little beaver slicky can do wonders. :bigsmyl:
:laughing: :laughing: :laughing:
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Nice build along. That bow looks sweet and with some very impressive numbers!
With that extra bit of reflex in the tips, is it any louder than the original 62/64 inch bow?
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I believe you have a good one there Kenny. Now to bloody it up this fall!!
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Seems as quiet, but have had nobody stand beside and listen..
Lookin forward to that David, but last years bow treated me very well... LOL... Hate to dump her!!
Oh , and I missed a step, after sanding the riser smooth, I only go to 220, You need to break the glaze on the glass so the finish sticks, just sand the shine off it with 220 and spray with finish of choice.
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Very cool! Now I want to make one... what could go wrong? Besides spousal distress...
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Eh... missed the subscribe button before...
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Spouses get used to it, as long as you don't sleeptalk....
Oh, she is so curvy and sexy I love her so much yadayada..... :biglaugh:
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Sounds like a little experience talking there. LOL
Great build a long and bow, by the way!!!
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Good thing my wife sleeps soundly..... :laughing:
And thanks!!
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Looking good Kenny
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Here are some finished pics of her...
(http://i.imgur.com/rGU7bM7.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/BTEjIwD.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/dMozuvq.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/7YUmuSQ.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/RoOsizl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/QV2wU71.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/lxb6tL1.jpg)
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Very nice, Kenny...
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: :thumbsup: thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Looking good!!
That's definitely a one of a kind riser.
It kinda lost the effect of running the belly lams though since they got split by the grip.
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Real beauty. Full draw shape is very good.
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That one makes me drool all over the place... I'm defiantly going to make myself on...
Say Kenny, now that you shot it a bit, is there a big difference between this design and the old one?
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Really nice kenny
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That looks great! I'll add this one to the "bucket list" for sure.
So Kenny, do you think a similar change to your 58"/60" form would work as well?
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I gave the 58/60" a little more reflex when I designed it, so you would need to be cautious adding too much.
I gave one to the IL Bowhunters in 58" and it did 190 fps with 9 gpp so it is already pretty good.
If you mean the riser , yes you could do that no prob.
I ordered a decibel meter a minute ago, so I can get a real reading on the difference if any in the 2 designs. Now I gotta get a 10 gpp arrow for the new one. It won't shoot the arrows from the old design without going from 200 down to 125 grain points, and still slightly weak. This makes for a very fast arrow but increases the noise.
To get apples to apples , I gotta have 10 gpp for both bows....
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Yes, very very nice Kenny!
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Nice looking bow Kenny. I really like the profile.
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Thanks guys !
The bow came in at 50.7 # @ 28" so I need a 507 grain arrow to test..
Or I could make a 7 gpp at 30" to get over 200fps...... :eek:
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Awesome build buddy !
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looks good as usual Kenny Nice shooter i'm sure
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Thanks guys!!
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Thanks for the really informative post!
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Hey Kenny, allow me to be the 23958244th person to sincerely thank you for your D/R plans and massive fund of backup information on this site! :)
With the perspective of a little bit of time (and i'm assuming some shooting) - how would you compare the '2017 extra reflex mod' with your original D/R design?
I guess the new design is probably a little quicker, but is there a corresponding drop in any other favorable qualities?
I guess what I'm really asking is - as someone who is about to cut out his form (62-64"form, but thinking of building 66" on it) - which variant would you rather build and shoot?
Thanks again mate!
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It is a bit quicker, but the original looks more like a longbow to me. A few fps won't make or break any bow.
For the 66" , Robertfishes on here loves it I believe. And if you know Bob Eddy on your side of the pond, I'm sure he has built a 68" that worked out OK!
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Thanks for the insight there Kenny. I'm not a speed freak so much, although I'd like to think there may be a few extra fps gain over the ASLs I've built thus far. Just for a bit of variety on the old bow-rack that holds all of my straight longbows and a solitary Bear Grizzly!
I've never met Bob, but we have certainly crossed paths on a few forums both here in Australia and over your side of the pond too. He seems a lovely bloke who does make lovely bows and he's been clear to me in his praise and endorsement of your design. Especially as you say, the longer than standard versions which are kind of my leaning as well.
I believe I'll stick with the original limb profile - mate how does it go without the power lam and tip wedges? Are these components a vital part of the design or more like 'optional enhancements'? As great as the classic straight longbow is, I am keen to create and shoot something a little different...
Dazza
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I might chime in here, I have built bows from 62'' to 68'' off that one form and all have been exceptional preforming bows. I am sure whichever route you take you will still get a very desirable , high performance bow.Best of luck with your bow building journey or shall we say soon to be obsession!
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Yeah thanks Bob, the obsession is well under way mate- has been for a good while now!
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Yeah thanks Bob, the obsession is well under way mate- has been for a good while now!