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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: YosemiteSam on February 08, 2017, 12:41:00 PM
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While handsawing the last bit of the limbs (thickness) of a maple board bow, I spaced out for a few seconds and my saw tracked in toward the belly. The gash is now about 5/16ths from the back. If I put on a 3/16ths backing strip of hickory, would that suffice to be able to still make 40+ lb @ 27"? Or should I give up and just make yet one more for the kids?
I had drawn it as a 68" NTN bow, 2" at fades. But haven't cut the pyramid shape out yet so it can be shortened or redrawn however I want up to 2.5" wide.
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That's why I like to start with a 3/4" thickness and reduce that with a rasp and scraper. power tools can screw up a bow real quick.
At 5/16" with a 3/16" backing only gives you 1/2" overall. You might be fine at 1/2" but it will probably be close. You can also reduce the length to 66" if necessary to gain a few extra pounds. Try the backing first before you do anything else.
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Originally posted by Pat B:
That's why I like to start with a 3/4" thickness and reduce that with a rasp and scraper. power tools can screw up a bow real quick.
Live and learn :(
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My question is would the hickory over power the maple?
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It shouldn't. He could also do a maple backing.
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Maple isn't great in compression - I would use a maple backing.
Also there is no need to go more than 1 3/4 wide at the fades.
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Originally posted by mikkekeswick:
Maple isn't great in compression - I would use a maple backing.
Also there is no need to go more than 1 3/4 wide at the fades.
Forgive the newbie question - is a maple backing the same effect as having an unbacked bow (as if I hadn't screwed up the board in the first place)? Or does a backing of the same material as the main bow have any additional benefits?
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It has additional benefits in that you can add reflex at glue up and the glue joint itself helps add draw weight too.
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Originally posted by Pat B:
It has additional benefits in that you can add reflex at glue up and the glue joint itself helps add draw weight too.
Interesting. I would have thought that a glue joint would be weaker.
I haven't yet backed a bow with wood (just paper & burlap so far). Would it be better to clamp the backing with several c-clamps or with an innertube wrap?
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I've had better luck and better glue joints with inner tube wrap.
Another trick is to drill two 1/8" holes at the handle, through the backing and into the belly. Use bamboo skewers or 1/8" wood dowels as alignment pins during the glue-up and wrap to keep it all together. Believe me, this makes it a lot easier to get everything aligned and keep it aligned while wrapping. Your handle wrap will cover these pins when all done.
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Innertubes are the way to go, i suggest you put a narrower strip of wood on the back to help to keep it from cupping, also i wrap it with stretch wrap before the tubes they last longer that way and they help hold it all together
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Thanks for your help, everybody! I am grateful for the wealth of knowledge on this forum & your willingness to help a rookie out.