Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: BenBow on January 21, 2017, 12:23:00 PM
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Here are some pictures of the slimmed down riser I'm working on. The bottom half is 5/16" strips of Hickory epoxied together. There are 3 pieces of .030 fiberglass with the center one wrapped in fiberglass cloth then sandwiched between the other 2. This will be used as a beam to cut riser flex. There is a 1 piece of 1/16" phenolic over .030" glass on the belly side of the riser to strengthen and also be the limb pads.
(http://i.imgur.com/B1svztu.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/iUprXqo.jpg)
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I have blacked out the area that will be the limb butt once the back side of the riser is cut and epoxied on the belly side.
(http://i.imgur.com/OFK05YR.jpg)
This is what the limb and riser looked like before and I don't like how clunky it looks. Time to start the limbs now. I'm shooting for a 66" bow and 52# to 55# at 28" which should be 54# to 58# at my draw length
(http://i.imgur.com/H8oBBou.jpg?1)
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Looks like a winner to me. I like the smaller risers as well.
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Can't wait
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One thing I'm really enjoying is the cyclone dust collector that I replaced the double bag dust collector I had before. The shop vac has way more suction than the bag unit did and now the shop vac filter never gets plugged up.
(http://i.imgur.com/z8qtOUF.jpg?1)
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They are amazing Ben. I really like mine.
Riser looks nice.
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Yep... They work great...
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+1 for the dust deputy. The riser looks really cool too.
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Yep I got a deputy awhile back. Dont know how I got by without it.
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Looks to be a strong riser. Can you use the deputy If you shot the sheriff ? ;)
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Only if he wanted to be sheriff Bue ;)
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OK the limbs are built and mounted on the riser. I cut the limb butt at a back angle to help hold the back side of the riser. Kirk and Sixby said I should drill and counter sink the back portion of the riser on both ends and epoxy stainless steel screw in to prevent the back portion from popping loose. Sounds like a plan to me. I really like how trim the limb and riser combo are looking.
(http://i.imgur.com/wdQBBs9.jpg)
Here's the bow profile with full length limbs.
(http://i.imgur.com/YHNa8Xv.jpg)
Now I have a question. In the past I'd measure from the center line on the belly out to half the length I wanted the bow to be. But when I build a string for it they always seem to be a 1/2" to 1" longer than what the nock to nock measurement indicates they should be. Here's a picture showing the centerline and the estimated nock placement at 33" from the centerline. So what am I doing wrong?
(http://i.imgur.com/irEiGna.jpg)
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Ben, I measure from nock to end of riser, then a straight line to the center of riser.
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Galen I had the same on string length, now I measure half the bow from center and square a mark across the tape(keeps nocks square across limb after profiling). Then file the nocks leaving the line after profiling the limb. Move em toward bow center.
With that and overlays I use a string 3" shorter than bow length.
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I screwed and glued the back part of the riser to the belly side with the limb butts wrapped in plastic so the epoxy fills any void between the riser and the limb butt. I'll be darned sure to remove the limbs before the epoxy sets completely so it doesn't become a 1-piece
(http://i.imgur.com/nV8GHnS.jpg)
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I also built some limbs for a belly mount longbow that I built the riser block for a long time ago. My sister-in-laws son gave me the purpleheart years ago but it was too short for a normal length riser. My best friends wife was wanting a bow so the purpleheart worked well with the 13" riser on this style. The rest of the riser is honey locust and the laminations are mulberry both that Ralph Morris cut from local trees.
(http://i.imgur.com/OKgKWLX.jpg)
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I found out something cool about honey locust. I haven't worked with it before. It has a tendency to burn if sanded too hard but when it does the dark grain turns purple. Once the final shaping is done I' ll take the heat gun to it to bring out the grain and it will compliment the purpleheart. This bow is going to be special for my friend's wife.
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Big old thorns Honey Locust.
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I tested it with my heat gun to see how much heat was needed. I pushed it some and burned areas but I have an idea now so when the riser is shaped and ready to finish I have an idea on how much heat to use. Matches pretty well I think. Looks like a God thing to me. :)
(http://i.imgur.com/sAPJrOV.jpg)
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Here's how the riser looks with the limbs mounted. The limb butts are a bit over 1 3/8" wide and tips about 1/2" with the weight at 65# at 28" by the time I get it narrowed down the weight should hit my 53#-55# goal.
(http://i.imgur.com/LOqDvbO.jpg)
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I just seen one like that at gander mountain today..
I guess it was ok.. :)
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Really Nice Ben
Is that a D/R
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Yes d/r. Did you buy it Roy?
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Originally posted by BenBow:
I tested it with my heat gun to see how much heat was needed. I pushed it some and burned areas but I have an idea now so when the riser is shaped and ready to finish I have an idea on how much heat to use. Matches pretty well I think. Looks like a God thing to me. :)
(http://i.imgur.com/sAPJrOV.jpg)
That's awesome, really brings out the variety in the honey locust too.
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Originally posted by BenBow:
Yes d/r. Did you buy it Roy?
Yea. That way he would have a shooter. :biglaugh:
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Yeah I wish he'd give me one of his throw aways. He does have the touch & maybe a little touched ;)I got a little carried away narrowing down the limbs. They're just over 1 1/16" at the butt which looks like the weight will be 50+.
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Here's the riser shaped and ready for filler. It will be stained in a brn, grn, & blk camo pattern. The riser is cut 1/4" past center and is set up for a flipper rest and a cushion plunger. I will build a shelf that can be stuck on the flat shelf if I want to shoot off the shelf. I still need to finish the tips, lighten the bottom limb, and time the limbs. It shoots good split finger but I want it set up for 2 under.
(http://i.imgur.com/wVHs78J.jpg)
Unbraced 66" N2N
(http://i.imgur.com/jfxhvAk.jpg)
Braced at 7 1/4"
(http://i.imgur.com/1ev88HX.jpg)
Drawn to 29" but not leveled
(http://i.imgur.com/p5hAy1E.jpg)
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Very slick! Love that slim riser, almost looks dainty. .250 past center should be able to shoot a wide spine range.
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Since it is a hunting bow I decided to go with camo paint. I'll do a FD curve and shoot it through the chrono tomorrow when the paint is cured.
(http://i.imgur.com/GFXmH9w.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/3On2wfr.jpg?1)
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Here's the 29" FD curve Good energy storage tomorrow the chrono will tell how efficiently it puts that energy into the arrow.
(http://i.imgur.com/z8VDgXk.jpg)
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OK here's the fd/speed results right at my draw length. Using a release & measured at 53.25# at 29" Stored energy 50.32ftlbs and SE/PDF of 94.5% arrow speed 203 fps for 48.677ftlbs kinetic energy and 96.735% efficiency. Way better than I'd hoped.
Measured finger shot: 53.25# at 29" Stored energy 50.32ftlbs and SE/PDF of 94.5% arrow speed 196fps for 46.309ftlbs kinetic energy and 92.028% efficiency.
(http://i.imgur.com/CaX336s.jpg)
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Looks like the string broke?
(http://i.imgur.com/7IGfbP4.jpg)
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My mind is what broke Roy LOL too darn much thinking so I'm taking a vacation from it.
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I needed to make a new sting, raised the brace height 1/4", and added 4 string puffs this dropped the speed 8 to 10 fps but the bow is deadly quiet.
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Smokin' allright. Is the limb curve a true circle shape?
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Looks great Galen! I like the looks of the enclosed limbs on a TD longbow especially.
Good performer too.
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Bue it has a tighter diameter curve in the first half and a greater diameter on the outer half. The outer portion is a bit of an ellipse.
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Really nice job on that one Ben.
Fast too
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Awesome!!!
It's great when you try something new and it works as you had hoped.
Love the bends in the braced and full draw pics. What are the specs on the limbs? Tapers? Wedges?
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.003" per inch tapers, 10" tip wedge .006" per inch, 10 degree limb pads 17" riser.
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I'm still learning Galen, please pardon the questions. So the wedges are 0-.060" /10" long?
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Yes but an 1 1/2" is outside of the nock so 8 1/2" is from the nock towards the middle of the limb.
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Interestingly not many are fans of the camo paint but beauty is in the eye of the bow holder ;)
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Interestingly not many are fans of the camo paint but beauty is in the eye of the bow holder ;)
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These limbs have a lot of reflex but I think the narrow but thick limbs contribute to the lateral and vertical stability. they are less than 1 1/16" at the butts.
(http://i.imgur.com/ZBusqYD.jpg?1)
I offset the riser window to keep the strength and help keep it from breaking with the window being 1/4" inside of center.
(http://i.imgur.com/L3yH9PW.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/7JRKS5R.jpg?1)
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not only good to look at but fast as well. Terrific work!