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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Theolithic71 on December 24, 2016, 01:46:00 AM
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Could use a little advice from you experienced bowyer's...
I've been using some of the draw weight tables to calculate stack thickness for planning my first build.
When using tapered lamination, where do you measure the stack? Also, if you are using tapers, this surely impacts draw weight??
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I always measure at the butt ends of all the laminations and include the glass thickness for the total.
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When I re-limb a bow that has broken or delaminated, the only accurate measurement I can get for the original stack is at the ends of the fade. Then I measure the taper rate. When I cut my lams they are full length (one piece, tapered from both ends) with no ends or joints in the center to measure from.
James
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Probably overkill but, I measure at the butt, mid limb and the tip and record. I also measure and compare the mid and tip side measurements to one another, usually by flipping a lam or a piece of glass that measurement will be with a couple of thousands of each other. Probably not necessary but I have a belief that it just might help make a limb ever so slightly less likely to twist. I am of the idea that a little gain here and a little there adds up to a better overall bow.
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Most of us will measure at the butt ends, but in reality it doesn't matter. If you keep everything else the same with your bow design, you could measure stack thickness anywhere as long as you consistently measure in the same place from bow to bow. Of course, your measurement would be specific to your design and where you measure it, but it would allow you easily make adjustments for greater or less draw weight.
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OK, the butt end is the part that ends up in the non-working part of the limb at the center of the riser correct?
When making tapers, does the whole lamination get tapered or does the taper begin at the fade?
Very greatful for your help guys!
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Tapered all the way most cases.Jess when building curve all that measuring is not overkill. You get buy with a little more on a narrow limb longbow. ;)
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2x what jsweka said... When in doubt go a hair heavy... You could always sand down or trap the limbs to go down a few pounds... Print out a fill in the blank sheet of info for every bow and take lots and lots of notes... Such as riser length, woods used, glass thickness, taper rate and so on... You'll have to develop your own stack thickness formula for each bow design and bow length you make... So for your first bow take an educated guess and roll the dice...
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10-04 guys. Many thanks for the info/advice.